Rihanna Tweeted, and has since deleted, that she was shooting her second cover of American Vogue with Annie Leibovitz. Just like she did last time! Timing would suggest this is a December cover. [@Rihanna]
Grace Jones says she enjoyed Phillip Treacy's show at London Fashion Week because what the milliner makes is so much more than hats. "They're not even hats really — they're art head pieces. You don't even have to put them on your head!" [WWD]
Here's a look at Valentino's costumes for the New York City Ballet. [TDB]
Oscar de la Renta still doesn't seem to understand what "hot dog" means. "Ninety-nine-point-nine percent of the people who read it read it the way I read it," says the designer of the term, which was included in Cathy Horyn's recent review of his collection. De la Renta took out an entire ad in Women's Wear Daily after the New York Times critic wrote him a — largely glowing — review that included the slang phrase for an athlete showing off his tricks. Jesus, Oscar. We know you're like 103, but Google is your friend. Cathy Horyn was not calling you a mechanically separated pork food product. [WWD]
Sadie Frost says she wants her friend Kate Moss to turn to acting. "I have my own production company now called Blonde to Black and we'd love to get Kate on the big screen," says Frost. "Kate really comes across well on screen. I've always said to her, 'You should do it, you should do it.' I think it will be the right script and the right timing for her." [Telegraph]
Wal-Mart has again failed in a bid to open a store in New York City. The notoriously anti-union retailer had wanted to open a store at a planned development in East New York, which needs a supermarket, but instead the location will become a ShopRite. ShopRite employees are unionized. [WWD]
Speaking of labor inequality, the Times' Ginia Bellafante weighs in on unpaid internships, which are common in fashion and publishing:
Plenty of jobless people who haven't gone to Vassar are capable of returning shoes to their designers after fashion shoots. But enlisting the edgy and chic to do the job free deprives an entire class of people from whole categories of entry-level work. Beyond that, the belief that performing these chores for no fee provides entree to a more meaningful career is challenged by a survey conducted last year by the National Association of Colleges and Employers that indicated that graduates who had paid internships were more likely to receive job offers than those who took unpaid work.
According to rumor, Lea Michele has been signed as a face of L'Oréal. [P6]
As the trend for "heritage" brands in (particularly) men's wear reaches its apex and intersects with the vogue for American-made products, new Web sites showcasing pricey domestically manufactured goods are cropping up. Like "19th-Century-style" baseballs made from leather tanned in Chicago, shuttle-loomed jeans from North Carolina, all kinds of stuff made in Brooklyn and/or Detroit, and, ahem, "an O.C.E. Hickory work shirt, produced by inmates in the Oregon correctional system as part of its job-training program, for $26.99." Prison labor: at $0.13/hour, what could be more American? USA! USA! USA! [NYTimes]
The French knitting and crochet pattern-design company World Tricot reached another judgment in its long-running lawsuit and countersuit with former client Chanel yesterday. World Tricot initially sued the luxury brand in 2005 after it says it recognized a crochet pattern it had proposed to Chanel, but which Chanel had decided not to purchase, on a Chanel runway. Chanel counter-sued World Tricot for disparaging its good name; the extent of the disparagement was apparently bringing the intellectual-property lawsuit in the first place. A judge initially found in Chanel's favor on the matter of the disparagement and in World Tricot's favor on the matter of the counterfeiting. Chanel appealed. An appeals court judge has now reversed both decisions, finding in Chanel's favor on the intellectual-property suit but concluding that World Tricot had not disparaged its former client. Chanel has been ordered to pay €200,000 to World Tricot. Chanel may opt to appeal to the Supreme Court. [WWD]
As usual, the Tom Ford show was presented in London under a veil of total secrecy. No photographs of the event will reach the public until Ford is good and ready. So let these reviews paint a picture in your mind:
PERVERSITY and chastity were the driving forces behind Tom Ford's presentation today — an off-schedule moment of calm and serenity for those in the know. "There can be something a little perverse about chastity," said the designer.
— British Vogue, which added that the models wore "teased beehives." Ford also showed high heels wrapped in beige leather. "It's a bandage colour," said the designer. "There's something perverse about bandages — it makes you think: is she nude or not nude beneath?"
The collection on Sunday felt completely contemporary, yet still in the Ford glamor mode. The key looks for day were his signature pencil skirt or a pair of biker shorts with a minimalist top, fuzzy sweater, or a semi-fitted hoodie. The biker shorts just seemed fresh again — thanks to Mr. Ford's polished treatment. He showed one pair with a matching black crepe-de-chine popover top with black patent-leather patches on the shoulders, and gold metallic heels that had been wrapped to resemble wedges. The wedge part was coated in tiny golden spikes, like pins on a sewing cushion.
— Cathy Horyn
Then came the Tom Ford black – a sheer tracksuit, a liquid patent flasher mac with matching portfolio shoulder bag. Both of which made you wish Helmut Newton was still around to shoot them. Vivid blue entered next — a second-skin pencil skirt in stretch mesh worn with a track top ("I wasn't thinking Olympic sport," he told one editor afterwards, suggesting she had "another sport in mind." Cue blushes and giggles.
Petit Bateau and Carven are launching a new collaboration for both children and adults. Prices will range from €50 euros ($64) for a boy's polo shirt to €250 ($320) for a woman's dress. [WWD]
The male model River Viiperi never turned up to the Michael Bastian show because he was out partying with Paris Hilton the night before. Bastian's styling assistant had to walk in Viiperi's place. [NYTimes]
New York fashion week may be over, but the band plays on: Fashionista has a handy-dandy listicle of all the London Fashion Week livestreams you could watch from the comfort of your laptop. [Fashionista]
Buyer feedback on the New York collections ranges from "It was a happy, upbeat season, with lots of newness, sexiness and boldness...It was strong," to, "Overall, it was hit and miss, with a number of young designers still being inspired by last season's Paris." [WWD]
H&M's sales rose 10% year-on-year during the quarter just ended. But same-store sales during the period were flat, with gains in June and July erased by a 4% year-on-year drop in August, which the retailer attributed to a "heat wave." [WWD]
New York was a fly on the wall at Joanna Coles' first staff meeting as editor of Cosmopolitan:
"The No. 1 thing when I'm pitching is, how can I relate this to the reader?" offers [writer Jessica] Knoll. "They don't necessarily care about our thoughts on, you know, culture, TV, books, whatever. They just want to know about themselves."
"What about Girls makes you uncomfortable?" Coles asks, turning back to [senior editor Anna] Davies.
"I just felt that they were so whiny. You are living in New York, you are 24, and if you aren't having fun, you just need to go to the corner bar and meet a guy and just make something happen," she says. "I mean, no girl who is 22, 23 years old should be sleeping with a 23-year-old!"
"You mean, because it's not aspirational enough?" Coles asks.
"She needs a fortysomething-year-old vice-president from Morgan Stanley. Who will at least teach her how to have interesting, good sex."
"Who has had good sex with a 42-year-old senior executive at Morgan Stanley?" Coles asks. Davies raises her hand. "Are you still seeing the 42-year-old executive?"
"No. I lied and told him I was moving to California. And then I wrote a ‘Modern Love' column about it. He still e-mails me."
"Intriguing," Coles drawls.
You know, culture, T.V., books, whatever. [New York]