I will, on occasion, posit a provocative argument to my boyfriend, who, like me, loves food and eating but, unlike me, has never lived in New York City. “New York pizza is better than Italian pizza,” I say, largely to see if I’ve made any progress in convincing him of this take that I’m not entirely sure I even believe in, though I love its brashness. Well, today I woke up with a gift in the form of this article that he sent me, and that I am now sending to you, dear Jezebel readers. Beyond taking it as a personal victory, I am utterly fascinated by what it reveals: that the celebrated Italian food we revere, and have been taught that there is a single Right Way to prepare (Tiramisu, carbonara, even parmesan itself), did not exist in these quintessentially Italian ways until the post-war period. Many of them were regional specialties, and their popularity in the U.S. before that time period has as much to do with Italian immigration as it does with the fractured nature of Italy, which didn’t exist as a unified country until the 1860s, and parts of which remained very poor for the better part of the following century.
Every detail this article reveals is fascinating, and I would have read something twice its length! So in that vein, I am begging an English-language publisher to put out a translation of Alberto Grandi’s 2018 Italian-language book Denominazione di origine inventata (Invented Designation of Origin); with it, Grandi became one of the first voices to pinpoint that these cultural myths are just that: myths. —NBT