Y-3 Takes A Trip To Hot Topic

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Tavi Gevinson said half-jokingly yesterday that she was sad Yohji Yamamoto wouldn't be making an appearance at the show for Y-3, his Adidas line, because she had hoped to ask him the meaning of life.

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Frankly, who better to ask that of than the 66-year-old legend of fashion's avant-garde? Seems like he just might know.

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Yamamoto had left notes on all the seats saying, "I am in Tokyo. See you in Paris!" Paris is of course where Yamamoto shows his main collection — the bankrupt one — and it is that enterprise which presumably required his full attention just now.

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There was, weirdly, no designer to take a bow when the last model had walked backstage and the applause had broken out.

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That left Yamamoto's clothing to speak for him.

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The atmosphere was pretty heavily influenced by rock — the Duke Spirit played live, on a platform built up into the immense black-mirrored scrim at the back of the runway. The audience were seated on bleachers, and the Park Avenue Armory building's cavernous space gave the proceedings an arena-like scale. The models walked in the glow of dozens of spotlights like tractor beams.

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The references were pretty clear, if a little random — a circus in the '90s? There were ringleader jackets and midriff-baring tops galore.

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And the occasional Ren-Faire-lite corset top with a pointed hem.

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The rock references continued in the collection in the form of a reliance on the color black and on silver chains, studs, and spikes.

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There were even men's jackets that had diamante Gothic script messages on their backs. One had a line drawing of the neck of a guitar, picked out in crystals.

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Frankly, it all felt a little too Yohji-goes-to-Hot-Topic at times.

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And frankly some of the trendier pieces — harem pants, the aforementioned studded everything — felt a little behind the times. Haven't the magazines been trying to make harem pants happen for two years now?

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That might have been Adidas' influence. Yamamoto's aesthetic was more readily evident in his signature oversized pants and (lightly) deconstructed tailored pieces, like a tuxedo jacket with ragged-edge ruffles sewn down the back of its sleeves.

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DISCUSSION

lilydancing-old
lilydancing

The male models' hairstyles look like a cross between Flock of Seagulls and Robert Pattinson on a bad day.