But he was even more famous as the “Playboy Prince”—or “Randy Andy,” as the tabloids took to calling him with their instinct for the jugular.

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Most famously, mere months after his much-ballyhooed return from the Falklands, the British press flipped out upon realizing he was dating an American named Koo Stark, whom People described as a “soft-core actress,” adding that, “Pictures of a nude and saucy Koo in lascivious poses were splashed over tabloid front pages.” The press hounded her. (She’s worked as a photographer since the 1980s.) This was a piece of nuclear-hot gossip, of course, and it was unquestionably Stark who was portrayed as the dirty one. “It is one thing for a prince to be seen with a film actress, but quite another to go away on holiday with a blue movie star. The Queen feels badly let down,” a palace staffer told the press when the pair went on vacation to the Caribbean.

But the prince half of the “Playboy Prince” moniker won out—for a while, anyway. Apparently, the paint-spraying was a turning point: Vanity Fair reported in 1986 that Andrew got a “furious transatlantic telephone call” from his father afterward, and he was basically grounded when he got home. “Royal-imagemakers were instructed to spray a little white paint over Andrew’s tarnished reputation,” as Vanity Fair put it. He broke it off with Koo Stark. And then came the perfect next step: an engagement to Sarah Ferguson, the perfect opportunity to cast him as not merely the fairy tale prince, but even a bit of a reformed rake. The pair were married in an echo of Charles and Diana’s marzipan fairy tale nuptials of a few years earlier, with similarly enthusiastic international press coverage. “THE JOLLY ROMANCE,” declared Vanity Fair. “He’s jolly nice, she’s jolly nice, and they’ve jolly well decided to spend the rest of their lives being jolly together.”

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The jolly was short-lived. Andrew and Fergie’s marriage ended in a tawdry manner, with Fergie essentially iced out of the family after the tabloids published the infamous “toe-sucking” photos, an important moment in the royal family’s 1990s nadir. Even by the messy standards of the Windsors that decade, it was bad, because it wasn’t just tawdry—it was vulgar. But again, much of the attention was on the woman: Fergie’s problem was what seemed at first like refreshing informality had quickly soured, revealing her as insufficiently posh. (Fergie cashed in in America, doing work for Weight Watchers, Wedgwood, and even Ocean Spray.)

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It was a bad decade all around for the family, from the public revelation that Charles had once wished to be Camilla’s tampon to Diana’s horrifying death in Paris, which made the family look glacially cold. But finally, the Windsors pulled themselves together and collectively embarked upon the process of remaking themselves for the new millennium. Charles rehabilitated himself and Camilla too, his office carefully burnishing her image until they could marry and remake themselves into a pair of smiling British grandparents. William and Harry grew into teenage heartthrobs. The Queen herself gained new respect as a dutiful living link to the wartime era that so obsesses the United Kingdom. And Andrew—supposedly—got more serious as he hit middle age. Or at least that was the story.

In 2000, People was back with a profile of the prince, headlined “Midlife makeover.”

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A royals correspondent for Britain’s Press association told People that the Palace saw Prince Andrew as “a good way of improving the royal family’s standing among members of the public” in the wake of Diana’s 1997 death. “Suddenly, Andrew has blossomed and matured,” said Tatler magazine editor Geordie Greig. Another friend said, “He is beginning to stand on his own two feet.” (Andrew had just turned 40.) He was working for a child abuse prevention initiative, Full Stop, as well as holding down a liaison job in the Navy and accepting a gig as president of the Football Association. Not long after the story ran, Andrew retired from the Navy and received an appointment as a U.K. trade envoy.

But even before the Epstein allegations resurfaced, this narrative of the more somber middle-aged Andrew didn’t hold water for very long. A 2011 Vanity Fair piece titled “The Trouble with Andrew” outlined his many, many missteps over the decade that followed, from bad judgment—he once took a helicopter a mere 50 miles to meet with visiting dignitaries—to just plain sketchiness: “Andrew dined with Nursultan Nazarbayev, the corrupt president of Kazakhstan, whose son-in-law subsequently bought Andrew’s white-elephant mansion, Sunninghill Park, for $25 million, $4.9 million more than the asking price. (Buckingham Palace denied that there was any impropriety involved in the sale.)” Stories abound of his acting entitled, boorish, and just plain rude. He once reportedly rammed his own park gates at his Windsor home with his £80,000 Range Rover because he didn’t want to drive a mile out of his way and they wouldn’t open. “He has a bit of a reputation for roaring around like Toad of Toad Hall and seems to think he can do what he likes,” a source told the Telegraph.

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But in light of the Epstein allegations, that “midlife makeover” looks even worse. It in fact mentions Ghislaine Maxwell by name as a woman Andrew has been seeing, and contains this bit of party reporting that is absolutely chilling in 2020:

Even during his three-day visit to the Big Apple Oct. 29-31, he squeezed in some nightlife. Attending a Halloween costume party hosted by model Heidi Klum at the chic Hudson Bar, the teetotaling Andrew sipped bottled water and chatted with Maxwell, who wore a leopard-print jacket and platinum wig, as well as with Donald Trump and his girlfriend, model Melania Knauss. “He’s not pretentious,” says Trump. “He’s a lot of fun to be with.” Maxwell seemed to think so too. She and the duke, who have been romantically linked since April, “seemed like coconspirators—talking, laughing and enjoying the party,” says one observer. “They were together the entire evening.”

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Guiffre alleges that she was trafficked to Andrew in 2001, the year after this article appeared. “I grew up watching Disney movies and princesses and princes were the good people of the world. And he wasn’t,” Guiffre said in a television interview. A former employee of Epstein’s told the Sun that she once wandered into a room in Epstein’s mansion and found the man and Maxwell watching Andrew on videotape with a topless woman: “Ghislaine said, ‘Oh that’s Randy Andy for you,’” adding that Epstein laughed in response.

“That’s Randy Andy for you” sums up Andrew’s entire life in the public eye. It was clear that he was no heroic figure, neither a great intellect nor a solid workhorse with a keen sense of duty. But at the same time, the stereotype of the harmless skirt-chaser protected him from being charged with anything worse, hiding him in plain sight.

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(Updated 3/2/22 with new details)