The History of The Cheap Dress

Illustration for article titled The History of The Cheap Dress

Everywhere American consumers shop — from outlet malls to department store sales racks — deals flourish. But where can one find the cheapest dress? "Fast fashion" purveyors like Forever 21 and H&M are known for their low prices, high volume, and rapid turnover of styles. It's amazing to think that a hundred years ago, at the birth of ready-made clothing as we know it, women would drop six hundred dollars for a Parisian knock-off. Today a fashionable dress is cheaper than a bag of dog food. How did we get here?


In the early 1900s, the sewing machine had only been around a half a century and the production quality and fit coming off the assembly lines needed some polishing. Decent menswear could be bought off the rack, and men were slowly warming up to ready-made duds. But for women there was a deep divide between high-end European fashions acquired by the wealthy and the flimsy, flashy, of-the-moment items available to everyone else. According to Jan Whitaker's book Service and Style, a history of department stores, a ready-made knockoff of a French "lingerie style" dress started at $25 ($621.50 in today's dollars) at Marshall Field's in 1902. It was more feasible for the average girl to buy a ready-made women's suit, which started at $7.95 ($190) or, better yet, the quintessential shirtwaist, which sold for just 39 cents ($9.34) at the turn-of-the-century. The fashion-hound of modest means was better off making her own dresses or ordering them from the local dressmaker.

Illustration for article titled The History of The Cheap Dress

Illustration by Lena Corwin; click to enlarge. By the 1950s, quality ready-made fashion was within the reach of the middle-class. America's garment industry was the envy of the world and womenswear was its number one product. The International Ladies Garment Workers Union had almost 450,000 members and the sweatshops of the industry's early days had been largely abolished. The 1955 Sears Catalog was a veritable wonderland of nipped-waisted frocks with Dior-inspired voluminous skirts. Style, quality, and affordability had found a meeting point. For a reasonable $8.95 ($72), you could order Sears' "best acetate and rayon crepe" slim-cut dress in black or navy blue, with a set-on bodice and detachable nylon-organdy collar. The dress came with a rhinestone pin. Women also continued to sew at home, using a myriad of fashionable patterns available in women's magazines.

Excerpted from The Etsy Blog. To read the rest of this post, click here. Republished with permission.

Elizabeth Cline is a Brooklyn-based writer and activist working on a book about responsible shopping in the age of cheap fashion, when low prices and rapid turnover of styles have ignited out-of-control clothing consumption. The book, called The Good Closet, will be published by Penguin Portfolio in spring 2012. You can follow the project at The Good Closet.

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teaser mare

I really think that making most of your wardrobe from scratch should be the next logical step from making all your food from scratch. You can get a decent sewing machine for less than $100, and a really good serger for less than $200. Apart from the money you save, think about the social and environmental costs of industrialized garment making.

Every time I sew a pair of pants, it takes up so much time and effort that I marvel at how you can buy these things at a store for $29.99. Somebody is obviously getting squeezed right there - most likely women living below the poverty line in a third world country. It got to the point whereby I could no longer in good conscience shop at fast fashion outlets like H&M or F21 - it just felt uncomfortable.

I know a lot of people say that they do not have enough time to make their own clothes, just like the way people tell me they do not have enough time to cook all their meals from scratch. I always tell them - these are things that matter to me, so I make an effort to find time.