My Beautiful Shit-Denying Twisted Fantasy of a Disney Cruise
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If I ever kill anyone, I will kill them on a cruise ship.
A cruise ship is a country unto itself, in which there are few laws besides “have fun” and “don’t fall overboard.” Even that last rule is more of a suggestion. Once you mime your way through the emergency procedures, then no more mention is made of reality and the boat casts off into open seas, where you are free to float and sunbathe and drink sugary drinks in a place of legal dissonance.
The prevailing agreement on a cruise ships is that the laws that apply are the laws of the country where that boat is registered. The Bahamas, where most cruise ships are registered, doesn’t have HB-1 visa laws, which is why cruise staffs look like Benetton ads. US labor laws don’t apply either, which is at least part of the reason Laurie Dishman was raped by a security guard on a Royal Caribbean Cruise and nothing happened to her attacker. (In a statement to Congress, Dishman said the ship’s investigation was haphazard. By the time, Dishman arrived on shore and reported the case to the FBI, they told her it was a he-said-she-said.) In 2011, Rebecca Coriam disappeared from the Disney Wonder and was never found. An article in The Guardian by Jon Ronson about Coriam hinted at a cover-up—that Disney had whisked away a darker story with its patented magic.
Coriam is just one of 273 people who have disappeared from cruise ships in the last 20 years. The investigations that followed have been complicated, to say the least, by murky international laws, competing jurisdictions, and the floating, jubilant crime scenes. You’d never know how few protections a person has on these boats when you’re lying there on a deck chair, watching your kids splash in a Mickey pool. You aren’t supposed to know. You don’t have to know anything. All the dishes are whisked out of sight, quickly. Your room is cleaned twice a day. Even when someone’s kid shits in the Mickey pool and the staff shuts it down, no one talks about it.
I didn’t know about Rebecca Coriam when I booked a trip aboard the Disney Wonder with my husband for our tenth anniversary. We were just looking for a vacation we could take with our family, where we wouldn’t have to worry. Where things would be easy. Everyone we asked agreed, and every Google search confirmed—if you want magic, you go Disney. And after over five years of wiping up kid shit, we wanted the escape. We packed up our swimsuits and our kids. My mother-in-law and sister-in-law joined us.
“Did someone poop in the pool again?” I asked the staff member on our second day at sea on the Disney Wonder. She was rinsing out the right ear of the Mickey pool, which itself was larger than three Walmart-special kiddie pools stuck together; the ears were separate from the large circumference of Mickey’s face, and babies liked to play in the ears best. The Mickey pool as a whole was frequently closed for mysterious reasons. The staff member frowned and shook her head. I sat down near another mom who was waiting, drink in hand. “Was it poop?” I asked. The mom shrugged. It was her second cruise on the boat, she told me. “I never know why they shut down the pool. We just go with it.”
Even kid shit, the most pervasive of all a child’s bodily functions, is hidden when you are on board the Disney Wonder. And if it’s as Milan Kundera writes—that kitsch is the denial of shit—then the Disney Wonder is the epitome of kitsch. That’s the point of a cruise vacation: denying the shit. In this small floating island of wealth and comfort, Disney has created a fantasy land. It makes sense that they’d branch out into cruises; the inescapable and quietly menacing fantasy is exactly what they do.

As any lady with a sunburn and two kids can tell you, cruising with Disney is an unrivaled experience. Every detail is attended to. At some point, Disney discovered I was a writer and sent chocolates and nuts to my room every day. The cruise ship even offered us a scuba package when we landed on Castaway Cay, which is Disney’s own island in the Bahamas; they offered us a dinner out in the boat’s fanciest restaurant, Palo.
The restaurant sits on the upper deck, near the adult pool, gym and spa—a place that is suddenly child-free in a way you barely even notice, as if all the children have been magically disappeared. They are somewhere on the boat, surely, ensconced in the magical Kids Club, and there’s an on-board phone the staff will use to contact you if your kid needs something, so you don’t even feel bad forgetting them for a moment. Your kid begged to leave you for Mickey-shaped ice cream bar and a 20-year-old dressed as Captain Hook.
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