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I stopped and introduced myself to a reporter from New York’s local NBC affiliate, who stood out in a bright yellow coat, holding her microphone and testing out angles on her camera. Multiple on-air correspondents wore fascinators, including a woman from Entertainment Tonight. Equipment trucks were being unloaded everywhere; I watched a man almost lose control of a cart full of no-doubt expensive electronics, then laugh, shrugging it off with a simple observation: “Steep!”

Hoda was stopped by another news crew and gave a brief, friendly interview, closing it with a “Party on!” and fist pump. Before I could reach her to ask her for an interview, she—like memories of royal weddings past—melted away into the crowd.

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But the mood began to shift over the course of the day, as media from around the world snapped into deadly serious “gotta get the shot” mode. It was rehearsal day; all the various military contingents that’ll join the parade on May 19 were doing practice runs. When I sat down for a quick lunch at the Prince Harry pub (formerly The Three Tuns, but recently renamed—wonder why?), a small contingent from NBC trooped inside to grab some quick video, taking advantage of the fact they’ve got the specially created beer “Harry & Meghan’s Windsor Knot” on tap. We all missed the practice run by the carriage that will carry Harry and Meghan and I felt a little company in my moment of brief panic, as we all wondered whether it was a disaster that we missed it. (Obviously, it wasn’t.)

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Noon today, the atmosphere was different. The crowds had built and media pros wove through them, darting like fish for the best interview or angle. There were so many TV cameras and tripods that I’m genuinely shocked I made it through the day without a concussion. A man with an ABC Radio mic and headphones hovered around, eyes combing the crowd. I saw a Fox News camera, and Ryan Broderick from Buzzfeed, who when I said hi, informed me that he was about to go live with AM2DM. At one point I looked up and there was Tina Brown—of course. I overheard a woman on the street say incredulously that there were reporters here from all three local stations in Houston, Texas.

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For all that Windsors media attention, I don’t get the impression that many reporters here are necessarily die-hard monarchists. The NBC branding, for example, is pure network sentiment, complete with sparkles. If anything, the American media coverage is hilariously disrespectful of the idea that monarchy is serious business; I wouldn’t really call wearing a fascinator and drinking at a desk with Katie Lee Gifford a form of deference (though if it is, sign me up). Particularly for American media, this is a lark.

But it wasn’t until I turned a corner and reached the Long Walk—the iconic approach to Windsor Castle, which is really a high-octane flex of monarchical power—that the sheer scale of this thing really, truly hit me. Halfway down the walk were announcing stations, entire TV sets relocated to what is essentially the castle’s front yard. They’ve built a two-story structure to house all the media that want the perfect shot of the carriage. Walking along, I passed TV reporter after TV reporter, standing to give their evening rundown.

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All over town, there are these cameras on enormous dolly systems, wheeling out over the crowd, disembodied mechanical cyclops eyes. Bright lights shine into the corners of your eye constantly. There are TV sets everywhere I look—earlier today, I got lost when I crossed the bridge into Eton and cut through a publicly accessible field. There in the middle? Giant TV setups with the perfect view of the castle. You look up and suddenly one will catch your eye because itis crammed into somebody’s roof deck. After a while, it started to feel faintly uncanny, like I was getting tiny glimpses of the hide of some huge deep-sea creature with a will of its own.

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That feeling receded as the day wound down, however. There was the feeling of a pause being reached. British reporters streamed to the train station, toting their heavy cameras home until tomorrow when shit will, as the royals say, geteth real. Young people with press credentials from American TV networks wove through the crowds with bags of snacks and bottled water. Coffee shops were laden with media types on laptops, sorting through the day’s haul or racing to meet the deadlines. Nevertheless, the European man next to me—wires spilling out of his bag alongside a royal wedding pamphlet—took five minutes to help me get my adapter and laptop plug balanced just right, saving my ass.

Everyone is taking a long, deep breath before tomorrow crashes like a wave.