Let Us Convince You to Try a Sunscreen Fragrance

Let Us Convince You to Try a Sunscreen Fragrance

Vintage Coppertone with notes of seashell, driftwood, and boardwalk? That’s what we want to smell like all year.

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Image for article titled Let Us Convince You to Try a Sunscreen Fragrance
Image: Vacation + Levente Bodo (Getty Images)

Ah, summer: a time so fleeting that if someone could figure out how to bottle it, they’d surely make a mint. Well, some have attempted to do just that and, given the prices of those bottles, they likely are making that mint. Within the world of commercial fragrance there exists a subgenre of sunscreen-inspired, or at least sunscreen-reminiscent fragrances. Some of the biggest perfume houses—Tom Ford, Creed, Bond No.9, Comme des Garçons, Margiela, and Estée Lauder, to name a few—have within their lines scents that evoke time spent in the sun. Most incorporate a note of coconut in their tropical melange (many also invoke pineapple and/or banana). Some specifically mimic the smell of sunscreen, like CB I Hate Perfume’s At The Beach 1966, whose prime note, per its website, is vintage Coppertone lotion. In general, this subgenre has a reputation for scents that are light, on the “feminine” side (insofar as that means anything in 2022), and don’t last nearly as long as they should, like summer itself. These are decidedly “summer” fragrances, though quite wearable in the colder months. For those who want a sensory reminder of warmer days, they function as the olfactory equivalent of a light-therapy lamp.

You may be wondering why one would elect to spray on a sunscreen scent imitation when one could just...use sunscreen. That’s fair, but also no fun. There is something about the hyper-reality inherent to this type of fragrance—the attempt to synthesize not just the nostalgic smells of summer but the overall experience—that is thrilling to behold.

There are so many fragrances out there attempting to capture this mood that we wanted to try them all to formulate a definitive ranking based on our impressions, noses, and experiences wearing them around. We tried more than 20 (mostly samples from third parties, though some directly from the houses and others in full-bottle form). From there, we graded based on wearability and two somewhat opposing criteria: how much a fragrance is able to convey a “photo-realistic” facsimile of sunscreen and/or how innovative a fragrance can be using sunscreen as an apparent jumping-off point. What’s wild is that all of these fragrances, while roughly going for the same effect, manage distinction. Below is the Top 15 that we settled on.

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2 / 17

No. 15 - Alien Goddess by Thierry Mugler

No. 15 - Alien Goddess by Thierry Mugler

Top notes: Bergamot essence, coconut water
Middle notes: Jasmine “grandiflorum” and heliotrope accord
Base notes: Madagascar bourbon vanilla and cashmeran wood

Audra: Between 2006 and 2011, discovering Thierry Mugler was a rite of passage for any teenage girl cosplaying as a cosmopolitan 20-something in the Midwest. For the wrinkliest wrinkle in time, it was right up there with buying an off-the-rack BCBG frock and playing tonsil tennis in the backseat of a Dodge Charger expecting to discover Valhalla and instead, finding Four Loko. In the immortal words of Ms. Swift, I remember it all too well, which is perhaps why Alien Goddess never stood a real chance.

Rich: This has all the charm of a literal alien goddess spitting acid in your ear. There is, like, a thin thread of saliva that is sunscreeny here. Otherwise, to me it smells like cologne for cologne’s sake. I really cannot with this and never want to again.

Rich’s rating: 3 screams in space that no one can hear out of 10

Audra’s rating: 2 mother of pearls out of 10

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3 / 17

No. 14 - “VACATION” by Vacation®

No. 14 - “VACATION” by Vacation®

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Image: Vacation

Top notes: Petitgrain essence, coconut water, coconut milk
Middle notes: Bergamot, solar musk, banana, pineapple
Base notes: Pool water, swimsuit lycra, sea salt

Rich: The kitschy Vacation brand attempts to rebottle what it has already bottled—this is the fragrance version of the sunscreen it sells. The sunscreen itself smells quite good; the fragrance leaves more to be desired. It’s realistic and deserves an A for effort, but not effect. “VACATION” is, to use a word that is overused on the user review-powered website Fragrantica, screechy. It’s so garish it’s as though those scare quotes in its name are their own base note. I had very little longevity on this. After my customary four sprays (neck, shirt, arms) in the morning, it dried down to a very drugstore cologne-y musk by noon.

Audra: Picture it: You’re 10 years old, on a Caribbean getaway with your family and holding court at the Hard Rock hotel. The Limited Too tankini you’ve chosen for the day has yet to lose a rhinestone, the beaded braids you’ve appropriated are tighter than ever, and you’re feeling like—as Beyoncé says—that girl at the swim-up bar. You order one too many virgin piña coladas before a snorkeling excursion and the next thing you know, you’ve soiled your bathing suit. This *entirely fictional* anecdote is what this eau de toilette—a generous term—elicits, and no amount of Instagram ads can make me think otherwise.

Rich’s rating: 4 unicorn pool floats out of 10

Audra’s rating: 3 paper umbrellas out of 10

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4 / 17

No. 13 - Vanilla Vibes by Juliette Has a Gun

No. 13 - Vanilla Vibes by Juliette Has a Gun

Top note: Sea salt
Middle notes: Natural vanilla absolute, orchid absolute
Base notes: Absolute brown musk, bezoin absolute, sandalwood, tonka bean

Rich: I get a decidedly vegetable note. Made my arm smell like herbs. At first I thought it was dirt, but then I realized it was parsley, which to me tastes like dirt. On the upside, this is weak so I didn’t smell like parsley for long.

Audra: How do I put this kindly? If this fragrance were a person, she’d be the type of bottle blonde one might encounter in the bathroom at the Soho Grand; someone who’d foist her Hailey Bieber nails upon you though you never asked to see them. You’d first perceive her as a claw-clipped, walking, talking nightmare sporting the pair of Amazon cargo pants a TikToker told her to buy to mimic Bella Hadid’s—at best—slapdash street style. Yet, after a few minutes of idle chit-chat, she’d seem sweet enough, so, just before you’d go, you’d fix her with a polite smile and a half-assed, “cute pants,” and she’d return to her espresso martini and tells her friends how nice you were. Meanwhile, you meet another her later that evening.

Rich’s rating: 4 parsley bushes out of 10

Audra’s rating: 4 glazed donuts out of 10

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5 / 17

No. 12 - Sunray by H&M

No. 12 - Sunray by H&M

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Image: H&M

Notes aren’t listed officially, but H&M’s website describes Sunray as “soft sand, salty waves, and golden warmth on sun-kissed skin”

Audra: I appreciate when a fast fashion franchise like H&M tries its hand at creating an affordable answer to popular, pricier scents like Le Labo’s Santal 33—even more so when they’re actually respectable (i.e. Madewell’s, Beau). Unfortunately, Sunray is no such example. Apart from the fact that any note of sunscreen is non-existent, one could find an even cheaper iteration of H&M’s attempt at their local drug store, and it would likely be more noteworthy.

Rich: This hovers around the idea of sunscreen without ever sticking the landing. As with a few of these scents, I’m getting a lot of peach, but at least this one is powdery and inoffensive. It retails for $6.99, making it the cheapest fragrance on our list. It’s a decent value if you want the impression of an imitation of sunscreen. That’s not nothing!

Rich’s rating: 5 Econo Lodge rooms two miles from the beach out of 10

Audra’s rating: 4 shells you’ll hot glue onto a frame out of 10

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6 / 17

No. 11 - Beach by Bobbi Brown

No. 11 - Beach by Bobbi Brown

Notes: Sand jasmine, sea spray, and mandarin

Rich: Basically the mid-price classic of the genre, Beach gives me a big photorealistic sunscreen bouquet but also...grape cough syrup? It’s one of the least complex of the bunch, managing to be dead-on but basic.

Audra: As Rich noted, Beach is as criminally basic as Vanilla Vibes (see number 13), only 10 times more unremarkable. Even if you showered yourself with it, the formula wouldn’t weather an hour. Considering Ms. Brown is one of the pioneers of the sunscreen fragrance movement, it does deserve an honorable mention.

Rich’s rating: 5 Sun-In dye jobs out of 10

Audra’s rating: 4 Bomb Pops out of 10

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No. 10 - Virgin Island Water by Creed

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Image: Creed

Top notes: Jamaican lime, Sicilian mandarin, Sicilian white bergamot
Middle Notes: Hibiscus, Indian jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base Notes: Tonkin musk, tropical wood

Audra: A central tenet—a creed, if you will—of any Creed cologne is how acutely overwhelming it is. Like a deeply tanned 70-something drinking alone at an island dive, trying in earnest to make eye contact with a tourist who will indulge him, it’s not offensive, per se. But it’s one you probably wouldn’t choose to linger near either. It’s best to just raise your margarita at it in mock-toast and appreciate from a healthy distance.

Rich: This did provoke a lot of nostalgia for me, but not beachy nostalgia. When I wore it, I was reminded of old-school, coconut-scented car air fresheners, and the incense my cousin would burn when she smoked weed with her friends. When I revisited via a paper spray, I got, very weirdly, dill pickle scratch-and-sniff sticker. It’s effervescent like that. This one practically evaporated as soon as I sprayed it on myself—it was gone after an hour.

Rich’s rating: 5 ‘86 Camaros out of 10

Audra’s rating: 5 fresh-cut limes out of 10

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8 / 17

No. 9 - REPLICA Beach Walk by Maison Margiela

No. 9 - REPLICA Beach Walk by Maison Margiela

Top notes: Bergamot, pink pepper, lemon
Middle notes: Transluzone, ylang ylang, cococut milk
Base notes: Musk, cedar, benzoin

Audra: There’s a reason Beach Walk is so popular. Somehow, Margiela manages to bottle moments, and so gifted is the brand that a single spritz summons to mind a trip to a boardwalk I’ve never actually taken. Somewhere in the imagery of late afternoon sun, saltwater taffy smells, and squawking seagulls resides a very respectable alternative to the more intense sunscreen fragrance options. It’s light, but a second whiff will make you remember why it’s worth returning to.

Rich: In some ways, this scent is the platonic ideal of sunscreen fragrances. In addition to a dollop of sunscreen, I get a lot of salt. It’s not too sweet, and somewhat busy...until it all fades very, very quickly. After an hour or two, I’m no longer wearing anything at all. Still, fun while it lasts.

Rich’s rating: 6 stoned days on the beach I immediately forget the details of out of 10

Audra’s rating: 7 rides on the Ferris wheel out of 10

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9 / 17

No. 8 - At the Beach 1966 by CB I Hate Perfume

No. 8 - At the Beach 1966 by CB I Hate Perfume

Notes: Coppertone 1967, North Atlantic, wet sand, seashell, driftwood, boardwalk

Rich: This is all about the drydown for me, which somehow replicates exactly that 5 o’clock smell of having been on the beach all day and planning the night ahead. The saltiness clings, underpinned by the impression of sweetness. It’s an instantly faded memory, and very, very good at what it does.

Audra: I don’t have much criticism of I Hate Perfume’s At The Beach, but I also don’t have many compliments for it either. Basically, it’s just fine enough to be ranked somewhere in the middle of the bunch. However, I did appreciate that it’s definitively saltier than all the rest. Why do a beach fragrance without...well, the beach?

Rich’s rating: 8 nights strolling the boardwalk out of 10

Audra’s rating: 7 sandcastles out of 10

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10 / 17

No. 7 - Soleil Blanc by Tom Ford

No. 7 - Soleil Blanc by Tom Ford

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Image: Tom Ford

Notes: Coco de mer, cardamom, ylang ylang, “Comores Islands”

Rich: At first, all I got was hairspray, but then a saltiness clung to me, and the more it did, the more Soleil Blanc grew on me. A deceptively strange scent that manages to feel both dense and slight, I felt like I was smelling the sun and glowing from within? The salty drydown is also sweet? This one definitely fucked with me.

Audra: Soleil Blanc feels as luxurious as sunning in St. Tropez aboard a yacht you’re not paying for. It’s warm, with just the right amount of amber and citrus notes that complement one another. Though, on second and third application, I began noticing inexplicable traces of cilantro.

Rich’s rating: 7 poolside benders out of 10

Audra’s rating: 8 topless selfies out of 10

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11 / 17

No. 6 - Intense Tiaré by Montale

No. 6 - Intense Tiaré by Montale

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Image: Montale

Notes: Tiare flower of Tahiti subtly combined with vanilla absolute, jasmine powder, coconut milk, ylang-ylang

Audra: If this lasted longer than an hour, I would rank it squarely in the top five. Sadly, it doesn’t. However, for what it lacks in stamina, it makes up for in scent. It’s certainly one of the more sensual of the bunch; ideal for hot—and hopefully, fleeting—dates, honeymoons, or intimate house parties. The amber notes strike a delicate balance with the floral bouquet, a feat that has proved too difficult for similar fragrances to achieve. There’s also the perfect dose of coconut.

Rich: This was very sweet for my taste, and again the effect was mostly peachy. Definitely felt the glow, and while it was decidedly not for me, I left my Intense Tiaré experience respecting its fine balance.

Rich’s rating: 7 replays of the peach scene in Call Me By Your Name out of 10

Audra’s rating: 8 listens to Kim Petra’s “Coconuts” out of 10

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12 / 17

No. 5 - Bronze Goddess by Estée Lauder

No. 5 - Bronze Goddess by Estée Lauder

Top notes: Italian bergamot, ginger extract SFE, mandarin
Middle notes: Indian jasmine sambac absolute, creamy coconut, frangipani petals
Base notes: Vanilla absolute, cashmere wood, captive musk, amber

Rich: Some classics are classics for a reason. I found this extremely realistic in its plant-based creaminess. It dried down to flowery for me, but I wasn’t even mad. Ultimately, I thought it was delicate but not basic, and truly the nicest mainstream (i.e. not avant) take on this type of fragrance.

Audra: I credit Bronze Goddess as the first sunscreen fragrance to steal my heart, so much so that I’ve kept a bottle in my cabinet collection for the last decade. It’s an absolute classic and boasts some serious endurance. Frankly, it’s a shame that Estée Lauder is often likened to the preferred beauty brand of mature women. Bronze Goddess can—and should—be worn by everybody.

Rich’s rating: 8 used Hawaiian Tropic bottles out of 10

Audra’s rating: 8 Diane Keaton cardigans out of 10

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13 / 17

No. 4 - ERL Sunscreen by Comme des Garçons

No. 4 - ERL Sunscreen by Comme des Garçons

Top notes: Bergamot oil, solar accord
Middle notes: Lily of the valley, heliotrope, peach
Base notes: musk, cedarwood oil, coconut accord

Rich: This was the first sunscreen fragrance I ever engaged with, owing to my loyalty to CDG more than anything. Initially, I thought it was pretty basic for that generally out-there brand, but I’ve since come around after smelling so many other attempts. This is a uniquely synthetic take on sunscreen—very coconuty but also very vinyl pool toy. I get quite a bit of alcohol as well, which reminds me not of sunscreens of old, but of the newer spray versions people use today. I love this!

Audra: I declare this an unequivocal sleeper hit in the subgenre for many reasons, but here’s the most remarkable one: In a time when the market for sunscreen fragrances is clearly oversaturated, ERL Sunscreen’s distinctive powder notes separate it from all the rest. Takes on sunscreen are often heavy with musky elements like amber and wood. While much can be said about the aforementioned, CDG’s iteration leans more toward bright, fresh notes like peach and lily-of-the-valley. Perfection.

Rich’s rating: 9 holes in the ozone layer out of 10

Audra’s rating: 9 farmers market bouquets out of 10

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14 / 17

No. 3 - Freckled and Beautiful by What We Do Is Secret

No. 3 - Freckled and Beautiful by What We Do Is Secret

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Image: WWDIS

Top notes: Orange flower infusion, neroli blossom, wisps of honeysuckle
Middle notes: Warm milk and pastry crust (à la Petit Lu) ...sunny warmth of salicylates
Base notes: Sandalwood, vanilla beans, heliotrope

Rich: A lactonic stunner. Wearing this made me feel like I’d been dipped in a suntan milkshake. However, the sunscreen fragrance is pleasantly faint, like a pastel version of it. This is avant in the least obnoxious way possible. A true feat.

Audra: I christen this scent: Grown-up Coppertone Girl Goes to a Gala. It’s soft without being too subtle; unpretentious whilst polished; and though its notes will never evoke anything but the best bits of summer, I could easily see myself wearing it as I hibernate in the dead of winter when the only other creature around to enjoy it is my cat. An added bonus? This baby has staying power. Upon its first test, I applied it at 8 a.m., and by the time I was being examined for an esophageal ulcer at 4 p.m., it had lingered long enough for my doctor to compliment it: “Oh, that’s good.”

Rich’s rating: 9 milkshakes that might kill me but I’m drinking them anyway (by the pool!) out of 10

Audra’s rating: 9 moon dives out of 10

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15 / 17

No. 2 - Coco Moon by Beach Geeza

No. 2 - Coco Moon by Beach Geeza

Top notes: Bergamot, fresh pineapple
Middle notes: Coconut, tuberose, jasmine
Base notes: Benzoin, sandalwood, cedar wood, oak moss, vanilla

Audra: Beach Geeza’s take on the sunscreen scent is far and away one of the best. In fact, it was so unexpectedly good, I promptly bought an entire bottle upon first sampling. Coco Moon is a layer cake of complexity, but if I were forced to summarize it using only a few words: Elevated Hollister. The next time I take my ass cheeks out on a beach, this is what I’ll be doused in. And because it lasts for at least eight-10 hours—conservatively—I technically wouldn’t have to reapply following an afternoon spent in the sand. For the record, I will anyway. It’s just that sublime.

Rich: Oh my god. This is everything. This is why I do what I do, or at the very least, why I wanted to write this post. No fragrance discovery I’ve made in the course of this project (or in the past five years, for that matter) has been as gratifying as Coco Moon, this bizarre mix of coconut and wood that manages to somehow be smoky-sexy. Every time I put it on, I simply cannot believe such a fragrance could be concocted. An immediate all-time staple for me. (I think it also reminds me of a haunted house ride I used to frequent as a child; there’s something almost dangerous-seeming about it.) The only reason that we didn’t rank this higher is because it really deviates so far from the kind of “classic sunscreen” smell this project is focused on. But those are its roots, and what a deviation it is. Utterly transcendent. I’d never smelled anything quite like it, and now I can’t imagine my life without it.

Rich’s rating: 10 minds blown/lives made out of 10

Audra’s rating: 10 gifted bottles out of 10

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16 / 17

No. 1 - Fire Island by Bond No.9

No. 1 - Fire Island by Bond No.9

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Image: Bond No.9

Notes: Cardamom, neroli, white musk, tuberose, patchouli

Rich: This is perhaps the safe choice for our top sunscreen fragrance, but only because it’s the sensible choice. This one does it all. It is dogmatically sunscreen-like, while leaving some sweetness hanging in the air (honey used to be listed among its notes, but has since been removed from the Bond No.9 website, which is odd because I definitely detected honey here). It’s very wearable and the kind of thing I want to spray more of when it fades. Mostly it just smelled clean to me, delivering an effect similar to Zoologist’s Cow or CDG’s Serpentine (though both are very different fragrances). Oddly I do not get coconut here, and oddly I do not miss it. A tremendous work of balance.

Audra: There are certain summer rituals one could practice weekly and never grow bored of: letting a snow cone melt on your tongue on an mercilessly hot day; a booze-induced skinny dip in the dark; attempting to take photographs of fireworks regardless of how shitty they turn out year after year. Wearing Bond’s Fire Island has swiftly become one of those time-honored traditions for me. That’s not to say I wouldn’t wear this year-round. It’s as versatile as it is very, very sexy. Unlike, Rich, I do miss the coconut.

Rich’s rating: 9 perfect beach days out of 10

Audra’s rating: 9 licks of a soft serve cone out of 10

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