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Milan Fashion Week

rag trade

Rachel Bilson To "Design" Bridesmaid Dresses

  • What the world needs today: a celebrity fashion "collaboration"! The latest is Rachel Bilson, with Brian Reyes, and the apparel in question is bridesmaids dresses, for her BFF's wedding to The O.C. and Gossip Girl creator Josh Schwartz. We hope she choses a style that is flattering on people who are not anti-food. [Fashionista]
  • In a sad day in the history of the legendary House of Givenchy, Justin Timberlake has been tapped to front a yet-to-launch new fragrance of theirs. And in heaven, Hubert de Givenchy cries into the bosom of Audrey Hepburn. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier, possibly off the deep end: "Love is everywhere. I look at you and I see love. Hearts are everywhere and love is everywhere. This is very good." Um, OK. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn: Banned again! This time from D&G. The As I Lay Dying of the garmentverse, that one. [Fashion Week Daily]
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Marni aspires to be Prada, but isn't: More often than not, it's just referential. Never has this been more apparent that with the label's fall/winter 2008 collection, which was painfully derivative of the Prada fall/winter 2007 collection. (Seriously: Look for yourself.) So if you dig watered-down Prada, go for it. But I think I'll pass. Annotated gallery of selected looks begins below.

Fashion Show Okay, someone call Interpol: I think something's happened to Roberto Cavalli. The greatest Project Runway guest judge ever showed in Milan today and the collection looked shockingly un-Cavalli like. There were no trampy-looking dresses in clashing colors with plunging necklines. The animal prints were few and far between. And the silhouettes were actually interesting. Not particularly innovative, mind you, but pretty and structured — dare we say that Cavalli's been infused with a touch of class? Annotated gallery of selected looks begins below.


Fashion Show I've always loved the fresh, young, and decidedly female perspective that 32-year old Frida Giannini brought to the House of Gucci following the masochistic and misogynistic reign of Tom Ford. And though her past collections dazzled with vibrant color palettes, her fall/winter 2008 collection offered a play on the Boho/rocker babe style that seemed a little dated... and not in a hip vintage way. Heavy on the fur, light on the innovation, I can't decide if I love or loathe the fringe-bedecked boots, among other things. Judge for yourself with the annotated gallery of selected designs, which begins below.

fashion show

Prada Manages To Make Lace Anything But Dainty

Prada is, always, the biggest show of each fashion season. No one manages to be ahead of the trends quite like that PhD-holder Miuccia Prada, whose wares women love and men can't even find remotely sexy. Prada's looks are always "intellectual" and "provocative," but not in the bullshit way those terms are usually banded about: She plays with ideas, perverts expectations, and — sorry, menfolk — knows more about sex than Dr. Drew and Sue Johansson combined. Her fall/winter 2008 collection was done nearly all in lace. But no frou-frou doily shit here. Oh no: This was lace for tough chicks. Dominatrixes never had it so good. Annotated gallery of selected images — there was a black model! — begins below, with the critics' rave reviews after the jump.
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fashion shows

This Fall, We'll All Be Futuristic Hippies With A Penchant For Big Coats

Milan Fashion week kicked off over the weekend and one thing is for sure: the Italians are getting sentimental over the Summer of Love. Roberto Cavalli put his favorite animal prints on tights, which were then paired with everything from long and flowing boho dresses to Mia Farrow-esque smocks. Missoni also played with this theme, with a collection that looked straight out of the wardrobe department of The Ice Storm. Burberry made homage to its hometown of London, with gold flared pants that would've made Austin Powers proud, Raf Simmons' collection for Jil Sander seemed to be one of his tightest yet, focusing on architectural coats and a muted, monochromatic color palette, and Gianfranco Ferre had an occasionally mod, occasionally rocker and very disparate collection (the entire creative department was credited, no doubt because head designer Lars Nilsson recently departed.) And then there was Giorgio Armani. Call me Cathy Horyn, but I have no idea what the fuck the guy was thinking. (See above left.) Annotated galleries of selected looks from each designer begin after the jump. More »

Spotted on Milan's runways: a real sized girl! Prada bucked the size zero trend and placed a "plus sized" model in a recent show. According to the Daily Telegraph, "Dutchwoman Lara Stone, 23, went bra-less in a top designed to show off her 86cm chest." For those Americans counting at home, 86cm = 34 inches. She's not ready for Lane Bryant, but it's a start. [Daily Telegraph via The Budget Fashionista]

runway report

Gucci Sucks, Marni Full Of "Sad Sacks": The Critics Speak

As Milan winds down, some of our favorite fashion critics [Ou est tu, Robin Givhan?] waxed not-so-poetic on what they've seen over the past few days. Gucci was universally slammed. Marni, Ferragamo, Dsquared, and Missoni got words good, bad, and ugly all thrown at them. The poison pens are out, there, and we're looking forward to the start of Paris Fashion Week on Monday - who shall be Cathy Horyn's next victim? In the meantime, we mourn those slain by Horyn this week.

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Fendi went all crazy geometric for its spring/summer 2008 collection. If we were highbrow fashion critics, we'd start talking about the influence of Japanese design and its appropriation, and diffusion, by Western designers. But we're not so we won't and instead we'll just say, "Um, that's a choice" when it comes to how the house of Fendi played with proportion. The prints made us dizzy — and we only saw stills! Pity the poor editors who has to see that shit move live! Gallery below. (All images via AP)

The New York Times' Cathy Horyn is banned from Dolce & Gabbana. Which is too bad, really, because we'd love to hear what she would say about the design team's collection of totally gigantic dresses (and one unfortunate pantsuit). And although we'd never wear anything like them (we don't really have occasions that warrant gowns with circumferences greater than that of our apartments), we're kind of intrigued. Gallery below. (All images via AP)

Alberta Ferretti's spring/summer '08 show was full of beautiful goddess gowns, delicately draped. Loose shift dresses with pretty details; garments seemingly spun from gold. Particularly innovative? No, not at all. In fact we've seen most of these shapes over and over again, particularly in the past two seasons. (And don't the shorter dresses sort of look like Marni knock-offs?) But very, very pretty? Certainly.

Pucci is known for its textiles and crazy prints, natch, but its spring/summer 2008 collection was graphic in a really refined and modern way. It was sharp and clean, the design house's sometimes-overbearing quality was toned down but there was still amazing use of color and line. If you liked Pucci then, you might love Pucci now.

Marni, like Prada, frequently gets slapped with the label of "clothes women think are cool and men think are lame because they don't show enough t & a." This collection, we assume, will solicit no different of an opinion. We love it. We would feel good about ourselves because you can actually breathe in these clothes. We don't care if they don't get us laid. In the world of our imaginary exploding bank account, we would buy and wear it all (especially the shoes!!!!!!), proudly. Well, except for that crazy hat. Gallery below. (All images via AP.)


Whoa: Is it just us or does the Ferragamo spring/summer 2008 ready-to-wear collection look straight out of 1989? Which, if we're not mistaken, was the last time Ferragamo was a big deal? Gallery below. (Images via AP.)

Emporio Armani is the highest-end ready-to-wear label offered by the Mr. A. himself. And after seeing the images from his Spring / Summer 2008 collection, we are left to conclude that perhaps it is also the fugliest. It is so ugly we don't even have anything to say except for, "Damn - that's ugly." View at your own risk; gallery below. (All images via AP)

At only 35 years of age, Gucci designer Frida Giannini seems blissfully unfazed by the somewhat tawdry legacy at the Italian design house she now helms, presenting clothes that, unlike her predecessor Tom Ford's sartorial representations of prostitution, are just plain pretty. And very, very modern. Her spring/summer 2008 ready-to-wear line, which was shown in Milan today, is no exception: These are clothes both beautiful and fierce. Gallery below. (All images via AP)


The Roberto Cavalli spring/summer 2008 ready-to-wear collection rocks. Seriously. It was all boho rock 'n' roll chic and we loved every minute of it. Well, not every minute. Those pants that look like Big Bird's legs? Not so much. But the rest? Oh yes. Gallery below. (All images via AP)

Moschino, Moschino, Moschino: What happened? Those shorts jumpsuits! That ill-cut black dress that looks like a Muppet died in the making of it! The occasional look for a 5th grader! The collection was all over the place and we liked very little of it. Though those weird pompadour-buns are sorta cool. We'll be trying to tease our hair into one of those for the rest of the day. Gallery below. (All images via AP.)