• mag hag

    5 Guesses Why Vogue Is Hurting

    Every year Vogue publishes an epic, huge, "Fall Fashion" September issue. This year, things are not exactly going as planned. More »
  • skin deep

    Black Women Love Makeup, But Does The Beauty Industry Love Them Back?

    Essence magazine held a "Smart Beauty" panel last week, and WWD has the sad, tragic details: More »
  • rag trade

    Naomi Campbell Sobers Up, Puts Down The Crack(Berry)

    • Naomi Campbell: "Some people can handle a drink or a line of cocaine, but I've finally come to realize that for me, it's all or nothing — and it has to be nothing." [E! Online]
    More »
  • rag trade

    Smell Like Amanda Lepore For Under $1,000; Supermodel Births Superbaby

    • Amanda Lepore has a scent which is more art project than perfume — sold at a gallery for $950, the crystal bottle contains notes of steamed rice, mandarins, champagne, and cucumber. It's fermented. [NY Times]
    More »
  • model behaviors

    Will The Credit Crunch Mean Fewer Black Models?

    Even though we just counted models of color on the runways (as we did last year), and found that numbers are increasing, a London model agent says the recession loves blue eyes and blonde hair. More »
  • model behaviors

    How Did New York Fashion Week's 116 Shows Treat Models Of Color?

    Everyone's been talking about whether this season, designers and casting directors would be putting more faces of color in their runway lineups. Well! We have the facts and we're voting a qualified yes. Let's explore. More »
  • clips

    Little Black Girls: So "Trendy" Right Now

    The downside of having Sasha and Malia Obama in the White House? Marketing people are suddenly trying to capitalize on their appeal. More »
  • mag hag

    Model Behavior

    Nineteen-year-old Chanel Iman is on the cover of Page Six Magazine, and inside she talks about the difficulty of being a model of color in the fashion industry: More »
  • model behavior

    Will Milan Fashion Week Be Colorless -- Again?

    Last July, the "all black" issue of Italian Vogue hit newsstands, but as Milan Fashion Week kicks off this week, it's a "whiteout," says Guy Trebay of The New York Times. More »
  • black models

    A reader sent us an email pointing out that Style.com has a post about the models on the Spring runways. "Diversity was the buzzword," reads the copy. And indeed, there's Aminata Niaria from Senegal; Lakshmi Menon (seen on Vogue India); Liu Wen from China; and Philly's Sessilee Lopez. Four out of 10 are models or color. Interestingly, WWD reports that the "hottest models" right now are decidedly Caucasian: Russia's Natasha Poly and Britain's Lily Donaldson. [Style.com, WWD] More »
  • black models

    Some Designers Still Don't Feel Like Using Black Models

    New York Fashion Week may be over, but a few media outlets have kept an eye on how many black models walked in the shows, much like we did last season. Diane von Furstenberg, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent a letter to designers, urging them to seek diversity when casting models. Reuters reports that though von Furstenberg used many black models on her runways — as did Tracy Reese and DKNY — there were still some labels for which only one — or no — black models were used. More »
  • joy bryant

    Pop Quiz!

    Yale dropout-turned-model-turned-actress Joy Bryant has a column on The Huffington Post in which she writes about a run-in with fashion racism: "It was the casting for a VERY famous designer. I was on line for at least an hour or so, which SUCKS but that's what you got to do, so you do it. I finally get to the room, where the VERY famous designer is sitting at a long table with a few associates. I say hello, hand my portfolio over, and proceed to 'walk' (please reference 'Top Model'). I do so and then the VERY famous designer says to me, with a smile of course, 'Joy, you are soooo beautiful, but I'm not using black girls this season.' (Insert sound of record scratching here). Yeah, he actually said that to my 'beautiful' face." Ladies! Who do we think the VERY famous designer is? Guesses in the comments, please! [Huffington Post]
  • Color Blind

    Model Behaviors

    Designer Tracy Reese is in a Wall Street Journal video discussing the lack of diversity on the runways. "I think young people… If they only see one idea of beauty, that gives them an awful self-image, it's like, 'The world doesn't accept me the way I am.'" She also says "I don't think we should deal in people like they're commodities, or they're trends… Everybody has something, whether you're a model or a regular woman walking down the street. I'm always interested in that thing that makes you unique." [WSJ]
  • black models

    Will Diversity Be In Style During Fashion Week?

    Fashion week kicks off tomorrow, and one thing we'll have our eye on is how many models of color make it on to the runways. New York's Daily News is also wondering if the media attention on the lack of diversity will make an impact on this season's shows. Reporter Patrick Huguenin interviewed several designers, and some seem optimistic: "I was pleasantly surprised this year," says Tracy Reese. "All the talk about it has made the agencies feel freer to show their whole portfolio. For a while there, it was one-note and now they might show a range that goes beyond what people might ask for." Designer Pamella Roland agrees: "Model casting has actually been easier this season," she says. But what about Jill Stuart, who was among the designers who did not use a single black, Latina or Asian model last season? More »
  • models of color

    Not Much Has Changed: The Faces In September Ladymags Are Overwhelmingly White

    Nothing quite says "It's August" like sifting through the pounds and pounds of perfume-scented and white-washed pages from the September issues of the major women's magazines. Sure, Italian Vogue came out with an "All Black" issue in July, but even that success probably won't motivate the editors of American women's magazines into showing a little diversity, especially if the September issues are any indication. After the jump, check out our roundup of the models of color in the ads and fashion spreads of the September ladymags, where, not surprisingly, Asian models are scarce, black models sell cleaning products, and Caucasians rule. More »
  • color blind

    Fashion industry types are thinking about the future now that the "all black" issue of Italian Vogue is officially a "success," reports CNN. "All the agents were happy about the issue because it gives us hope that other people will catch on and decide that it's OK to use more black girls," says Carlos Ojeda, an agent at New York Models. "It's OK to have more than just one, and she doesn't have to always be Naomi." Bethan Hardison, who scheduled several summits and town hall meetings about the lack of black models in the past year and has another set for September, says: "We just have to keep the bar high and keep showing beautiful women and pictures." The question is: When do you know for sure that things have changed? [CNN]
  • beyonce

    Photoshop Of Horrors

    Hm, is it just us or does Beyonce look different in the newest ad for L'Oreal Feria haircolor? Something about that photo of her just pales in comparison to her actual flawless visage. Seriously though, Beyonce is so whitewashed in this photo that we had to check to see if this was an ad for skin coloring, not hair coloring, cream. Ugh, the full ad after the jump. [ONTD] More »
  • italian vogue

    The "All Black" Issue Of Italian Vogue: Both A Success And A Failure

    It's official: The "all black" issue of Italian Vogue is a hit. According to Time magazine's Jeff Israely, "After the original run of the July issue sold out in the U.S. and U.K. in 72 hours, Vogue Italia has just rushed to reprint 30,000 extra copies for American newsstands, another 10,000 for Britain and 20,000 more in Italy. The only complaints about the reprints might come from those currently trying to sell copies on eBay for $45 apiece." But not everyone thinks the issue is ground-breaking enough. Writer Priyamvada Gopal has a column in today's Guardian in which she claims black women actually have "little to gain" from the issue. So for whom should we chalk one up? More »
  • black & white issues

    Photographer Nick Knight, whose images you may have seen, is upset about fashion industry's marginalization of black models. He's created a short film, reports New York magazine's The Cut, and it stars one Ms. Naomi Campbell. Knight's words appear on the screen in between shots of Naomi. Knight writes: "Whenever I ask to use a black model I am given excuses such as 'Black models are not aspirational in some markets' or 'they do not reflect the brands values,' normally, however, no reason is given. By my own inaction, I am guilty of allowing racism to be normalized and accepted in this business. this has made me deeply sad and increasingly angry... It is my belief that our society must be inclusive and by denying people the right to be seen as beautiful you cause deep cultural resentment, alienation and division." [NY Mag, Untitled By Nick Knight]
  • closer looks

    Today In Catalogs

    From a reader: "Did you see the Nordstrom anniversary sale catalog? On page 34 there's not only a black model, but a model in a wheelchair! Model diversity, yay!" (Click to enlarge.)
  • maghag

    Italian Vogue's "All Black" Issue: A Guided Tour

    "While tech heads on Friday lined up at the Apple store to buy the latest iPhone, fashionistas evidently hurried to newsstands across New York City to get their hands on the July Italian Vogue featuring all black models," reports WWD. A Condé Nast spokeswoman says the company increased newsstand distribution of the special issue by 40 percent in the U.S. Friday night (on my way to the commenter meetup), I walked by the newsstand on Avenue A, where I'd called and stopped in about a dozen times in search of Vogue Italia, and I jokingly shook my fist, damning the store for not having the issue. That's when I saw it in the window. I bought three copies. Flipping through the much-hyped issue is interesting: After the pull-out cover featuring four striking close ups (Liya Kebede, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell), the next thirteen pages of ads — for Valentino, Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Dior — all feature white faces. More »
  • black models

    Will The July Issue Of Italian Vogue Solve The Black Models Problem?

    Ever since we first heard about the "all-black" issue of Italian Vogue, we've been in a tizzy. The magazine has still not hit in New York, but we're making friends with all the dudes at the best newsstands, who are amused as we keep calling. ("What is in this July issue?" asked one vendor. "It's special," we replied. "All black models." "Oh," he smiled. "Nice.") As for the issue: Is it good? Is it bad? It's hard to comment without actually holding a copy of the magazine in our hands. Still, an interview with Franca Sozzani, whom the Telegraph calls "the seraphic, Botticelli-haired editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia," offers some insight: More »
  • maghag

    Vogue's Not Racist; Three Black Models Prove It!

    In the "Talking Back: Letters From Readers" section of the new issue of Vogue, there are two, yes two letters regarding the controversial LeBron James/Gisele Bündchen cover. We read them this weekend, and the folks over at The Fashion Bomb have already posted them. The first is from Christine Fox of Santa Ana, CA: "I'm an African-American women who sees nothing wrong with the April cover. I know there has been a lot of buzz about it, and folks are outraged, but it's ridiculous!" Her letter goes on to say: "It is just fashion, dahling." The other letter, From Stephanie Jackson in Brooklyn, states: "The April cover bothers me. More devastating than the perpetuation of stereotypes in mainstream culture is the dismissal of the counterargument as if it doesn't make sense. If controversial imagery rubs a minority group the wrong way, shouldn't the appropriate response be an apology?" More »
  • rag trade

    Over A Thousand Attend Yves Saint-Laurent Funeral

    • Chic-est funeral in the history of the world: fitting sendoff for YSL. [New York Magazine]
    • And by the way, his mother looks amazing. [Guardian]
    • Lagerfeld's floral tribute to erstwhile rival. [Fashion Week Daily]
    • Apparently God DOES answer all "knee-mails!" Anya Hindmarch, Sigerson-Morrison to design for Target! [New York Magazine]
    • The Lauren Conrad Collection's website could use a proof-reader. Or, you know, stop working on a Medieval printing press. [Lauren Conrad]
    • Not surprising, as apparently LC is a terrible student! And Nick from Project Runway is her teacher! Oh, L.A.…[New York Post]
      More »
    • model citizens

      New Documentary Examines The Absence Of Black Models On The Fashion Runways

      BET aired a documentary last week called Fashion Blackout, which explored the barriers that black models have broken, the roles they've played in the fashion industry, and why the hell more of them haven't been on the fashion runways as of late. As to that last issue, well, the models interviewed, for the most part, blamed the people casting the shows (the fashion designers and stylists), the designers blamed the agencies, and the agencies blamed the magazine editors (one rep says he has received casting instructions that specify "no black no Asian"). Unfortunately, Vogue editor Andre Leon Talley, one of the most powerful people of color in the fashion industry, had nothing to add to the "where are the black models" debate, other than to express his love of black beauty. Clip above. More »
    • maghag

      Model Search

      Minette Marrin of the Times Of London took a page from our book and counted the number of black fashion models in glossy magazines. She found (surprise!) that "there were hardly any ethnic models, and few of those were black." While Jourdan Dunn is emerging as a new black supermodel in the UK, she is just one face in a billion-dollar industry. Sarah Doukas, head of the Storm modelling agency, to which Jourdan is signed, (and who famously discovered Kate Moss) says: "It's ridiculous that we have so little diversity in our idea of beauty. Globally, I think a huge change is about to happen. I'm optimistic. I think people will come to feel again that diversity is much more interesting than the rather bland, generic look we've seen so much of for so long." Let's hope so. [Times Of London]
    • model behaviors

      Aw, Chanel Iman. Of the upcoming issue of Italian Vogue featuring only black models, Iman says: "I'd be surprised [if I get the cover]. If I did that would be amazing, but if I don't, I'll get it the next time." And does she see herself as famous? "No. I don't know. I don't really feel that way. When you ask me these kind of questions, it's kind of strange because I don't see myself like that." And if she can stay like that with a name like 'Chanel Iman', well — good for her. [NYMag]
    • rag trade

      Bribery Is The New Black

      On the heels of the Marc Jacobs/KCD bribery scandal comes a report that a Prada's longtime casting director, Russell Marsh, accepted bribes from two modeling agencies to land their "girls" spots in Prada and Miu Miu castings. What's interesting is that many industry insiders have intimated that when Prada first started sending pale, blonde, European models down the runway, other labels followed suit, leading to a lack of diversity — and specifically black models — on the catwalk. Was Mr. Marsh part of the problem? We'll have to see. [Fashionista]
    • model behaviors

      Fashion Weak

      Editorial assistant Maria tallied up the models of color at Paris Fashion Week, and, much like New York, London and Milan, the runways were pretty white. Here are how some of the most influential designers cast their shows: Ann Demeulemeester: 29 models, all white. Balenciaga: 34 models; 2 dark-haired Spaniards, zero black, zero Asian. Celine: 42 models; 1 Asian, zero black. Chanel: 36 models; 2 Asian, zero black. Chloe: 28 models; 2 Asian, 1 dark-haired Spanish, zero black. Christian Dior: 58 models; 1 Asian, 1 black. Christian Lacroix: 30 models; zero Asian, zero black, 1 indigenous Brazilian. Jean Paul Gaultier: 36 models; 2 Asian, 2 black, 1 Latina (Omahyra). John Galliano: 52 models, 1 Asian, 1 black. Louis Vuitton: 49 models; 2 Asian, 2 black, 1 indigenous Brazilian. Vivienne Westwood: 25 models; 2 Asian, 5 black, 1 Latina. Yohji Yamamoto: 25 models, 1 Asian, zero black. Junya Watanabe avoided the blatant runway racism by covering all his models' faces with pieces of black fabric. That's one way to deal with it! More »
    • fashion weak

      On The Runways Of Milan, Color Just Wasn't Considered Chic

      We've been continuing to count models of color as the fall 2008 designer collections are shown around the globe, and although things were not good in New York and London, Milan was the worst so far. The runways were overwhelmingly white. (That's the Gucci lineup, at left.) Our own Maria-Mercedes Lara ran the numbers: Of thirty-seven runway shows, there 1,084 opportunities to send out a model. Asian models walked 28 times, Latina models walked 17 times, and black models walked 14 times. Keep in mind we're counting instances of models on a runway and not the models themselves; Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman, for example, were in more than one show. What's really interesting is how many shows by big-name Italian designers had absolutely zero diversity. (Keep that in mind the next time you consider buying a Fendi purse or anything by Jil Sander!) Some examples, and percentage breakdowns, after the jump. More »
    • black models

      Color Blind

      All black models look the same? Apparently Style.com editors think so! Fashionista's Britt Aboutaleb questions Style.com's ability to "tell the difference between Sasha P. and Gemma" but not between Chanel Iman (a Teen Vogue cover girl!) and Jourdan Dunn. Considering that Style.com is the "online home" of W and Vogue, two repeat offenders in our own investigation into the lack of black models in magazines this doesn't really surprise us. Maybe this is what happens when Vogue MainGay, Andre Leon-Talley, isn't on hand to point out who-is-who of the three black models in the fashion world! [Fashionista]
    • diversity watch

      Designer: Fashion Runways "Are Full Of White Dogs"

      Things were bad on the runways in New York for black models, but at London Fashion Week, it was worse. British-born model Jourdan Dunn (pictured at left) was the only model of color to walk repeatedly on the catwalks this season. "I worry about it," she tells Style.com. "Luck is on my side that I keep getting cast, but there are so many beautiful black girls. I don't understand why it's always only me and maybe another girl who are chosen." Outspoken designer Katherine Hamnett is pissed. "The catwalks are full of white dogs," she tells the Guardian. (Hamnett is Caucasian.) "Cosmetic companies don't like black models — the racist bitches. I have no idea why when it's obvious that black girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than Caucasians, who have clearly got the short straw." More »
    • model behaviors

      Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash

      When New York Fashion Week kicked off, we swore to monitor the diversity — or the lack of — on the runways. CFDA president Diane Von Furstenberg sent a letter to designers, model agencies and casting directors last month, encouraging them to create shows "that are truly multicultural." Well, the NY Daily News reports that despite von Furstenberg's efforts (and the numerous summits held by former model and agent Bethann Hardison), the catwalks were sorely lacking in models of color. According to the News, out of 66 shows at the in the Bryant Park tents, 18 designers had no black models. Jezebel editorial assistant Maria-Mercedes Lara, who went through each and every fashion show posted on Style.com, said that the models were overwhelmingly Caucasian-looking. She notes that von Furstenberg's runway "had the most models of color, but then again she did send the letter. Although Peter Som was quoted in The Wall Street Journal as saying 'I do not want an all-white cast,' his show featured a mere 3 models of color out of 18." A breakdown of the models, some examples of "diverse" shows and quotes from industry insiders (gathered by our own Jennifer Gerson), after the jump. More »
    • black models

      In the wake of the summits regarding a lack of ethnic diversity on fashion runways being held by Bethann Hardison, the spotlight is on casting directors, reports the Wall Street Journal. Jennifer Venditti, who helps designers find models for runway shows, recently had a client's stylist say he "didn't need" a second black model because they already had one. Ms. Venditti pressed, "They're both beautiful. Why can't you have two?" As we cover fashion week (and start off Black History Month), we'll be keeping an eye out for models of color; stay tuned. [WSJ]
    • complicated conversations

      Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways

      Last night, five months following her first event about the lack of diversity in fashion, model-agency owner Bethann Hardison held a similar gathering with the stated goal of examining why models of color are in such short supply on the fashion industry's runways and magazine editorials. (The attention to the issue seems to be growing: At a September event called "The Lack Of The Black Image In Fashion Today", 70 people, including Naomi Campbell, showed up; Hardison's second symposium, held in October at the New York Public Library, drew 275, and last night, a group of around 200 were on hand.) Ms. Hardison (seen above left between Campbell and Iman) began yesterday's proceedings by addressing the crowd — a motley crew of models, journalists, designers, stylists and industry insiders — saying when it comes to a lack of diversity on the high fashion runways, "All of us are responsible." More »
    • maghag

      Most Ladymags Continuing To Experience Whiteout Conditions

      January is traditionally the month in which the fashion magazines are slimmer than usual. Not the models — the actual publications. In the post-holiday issues, advertising pages are down, and compared to December, it's a slow month in terms of projects, news and celebrities. So often, January is the month you'll find a person of color on the cover! And lo and behold, Rihanna is on Allure, looking gorgeous. (Christina Aguilera is on Marie Claire.) Our own Maria-Mercedes Lara did a tireless search through the January issues of W, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, Allure, Glamour, Lucky, Elle and Cosmopolitan, looking for women of color (she uses "ambiguous race" to describe models clearly not meant to be seen as "white.") Her tallies, after the jump. More »
    • black models

      African news outlets are following the continuing story of the lack of black models in Western fashion. There are fewer black models on runways and in magazines now than in the 1980s and '90s. But the director of South African modeling agency Models International, Lisa-Jane Owen, claims that this problem has not infiltrated Africa. "There are many black models in South Africa," she says. "Within our context, there definitely is no 'racism' towards black models." Does that mean that New York, London, Paris and Milan are more racist than South Africa? A summit (like the one in New York this fall) will take place in London next year, allowing industry insiders to get together and discuss the dearth of black models, who's to blame, and what can be done about it. [All Africa]
    • maghag

      Merry Christmas, Black Models, Wherever You Are

      Intern Maria did the tireless work of looking for black models, Asian models and models of any color but white in the December issues of the major women's fashion magazines. She writes, "Surprise! There were no women of color in ANY fashion spread (not counting the 'shopping' sections, since spreads are what matters in terms of 'big time modeling'). The products I noticed did use a lot of non-celebrity women of color were mostly skin companies (Aveno, Olay, Johnson and Johnson) and lower price-point companies like Payless Shoes and I.N.C. However, there were also a lot of (non-celeb) Asian women in Rock and Republic and Lord and Taylor ads. Bigger corporate companies like The Gap also threw in a few black and Asian models/celebs into the mix." After the jump, see Maria's tallies for W, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, Allure, Glamour, Lucky, Elle and Cosmopolitan. More »
    • today in catalogs

      Barneys New York: Shiny Happy People & Crazy Expensive Clothes

      The Barneys New York "Have A Green Holilday" catalog is a breath of fresh air. Unlike the tragically sad models at Urban Outfitters, the Barneys models are psyched to be alive! Maybe because being rich enough to afford the stuff in the catalog is awesome? The clothes and gifts are frighteningly expensive, but beautifully photographed and "green." Sort of. Pretty much every item is attached to a charity, so that when you shop you can think you're doing some good. Organic dresses, alternative transportation and Louboutins, after the jump. More »
    • mag hag

      What's The Message Behind A Black Man In Heels On The Cover Of Vogue?

      The New York Times interviewed our favorite muse, André J., for the Sunday Styles section, and we've learned all kinds of interesting things about André! André was born in Newark, N.J, does not consider himself a cross dresser ("I'm just expressing myself and not hurting anyone and taking myself to a place where I want to be, a place where the world is beautiful") and keeps a journal. He was raised in a "loving single-mother household in a housing project" and then moved to L.A. for "the sex and the fame." A stylist recommended that Bruce Weber shoot André, and André traveled to the photographer's Montauk compound from Manhattan via bus. But André didn't know he would be on the cover: A friend called and broke the news when André was on his way home from church one Sunday. French Vogue editor in chief Carine Roitfeld swears: "There is not a special message in the cover, I just loved it." But we've been thinking: Is the cover sending the message, "It's fabulous to be yourself!" Or is it saying,"If a black model wants to land the cover of Vogue, she'd better grow a beard" ? More »