"I hope that you like me, but fashion people like hating things more than they like liking things, so I win either way." Host Seth Meyers led with a Galliano/Jewish joke at the Council ofFashion Designers of America awards last night, American fashion's biggest, most celebrity-filled love-fest. "As a comedian, I have to say that this gig is a dream come true, because you know what they say about the world of high fashion: It's just a bunch of easygoing, laid-back people who love to laugh at themselves. You could even say that fashion and comedy go together like Galliano and bar mitzvahs," said Meyers. The line was met with a smattering of nervous laughter. "That joke went so badly I think I'm going to get fired from Dior," he added. That killed. Vonnegut said that laughter is a response to fear, but that crowd was definitely afraid to be seen laughing at John Galliano's anti-Semitism. Later, Meyers wore Marc Jacobs' black lace Comme des Garçons Met Ball dress on stage ("my nipples have never been so freezing") and, after running down the long list of current fashion reality shows, added, "This fall on NBC tune into Karl Lagerfeld's new show, ‘Are You Fatter than a Fifth Grader?'" [Fashionista, The Cut]
The CFDA's Womenswear Award went to the Row, which beat out Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler for the honor. Billy Reid was named the Menswear Designer of the Year, and Reed Krakoff won the top prize for accessories design. Among emerging designers, Joseph Altuzarra won for women's wear, Phillip Lim for men's wear, and Tabitha Simmons for accessories. Tommy Hilfiger won a Lifetime Achievement award, Rei Kawakubo was honored in absentia with the International Award (which John Waters accepted on her behalf), Johnny Depp won the Icon Award (which John Waters accepted on his behalf, too), Andrew Rosen of Theory won the Founders Award, and Scott Schuman and Garance Doré won the organization's inaugural Media Award. [WWD]
Marion Cotillard is on the cover of French Glamour's 100th issue. [Fashion Copious]
Is your hangover in the mood to read a long, detailed story about the hot new trend of fashion bloggers, and how they make their money? Good, 'cause Women's Wear Daily has one. Allow us to summarize: blogs are things on the Internet that some people like to look at. Some bloggers make money for writing or photographing certain clothes and accessories for their Internet-blogs. Some don't, but make money from some of the same brands by hosting events, collaborating on lines, shooting ad campaigns, or similar. Some bloggers then write about those same companies, separately. Some bloggers make money by writing books, or whatever. Not all bloggers are the same! Some are more like magazine editors, some are more like newspaper journalists, some are total shills. Here's the nut graf:
For between $5,000 and $20,000, a brand can work with an influential blogger to host an event (plus airfare, hotel and entertainment, of course) — one that gets upward of a few million page views a month and will cross-promote the brand on the blogger's site (although the jury is still out on proving ROI from page views, with sales being the only concrete measure). Starting from $20,000 to $25,000 (and up), a company can book a blogger for various weeklong projects during Fashion Week — with some bloggers fetching nearly $50,000 for even longer-term partnerships.
Those numbers are all off-the-record. "We don't need to tell people how much money we make," says Scott Schuman, of the Sartorialist. "It's not that we're being coy — when I talk about money people get mad." Representative quote from tower of journalistic integrity Derek Blasberg: "Five years ago, if someone called me a blogger I would have probably scoffed and been offended. But things have changed and it's a digital world now. If someone calls me a blogger today? I'm flattered and I feel relevant." [WWD]
Two glass cases fell over and shattered at the opening party for Patricia Field's new boutique. Nobody was injured, but some guests were alarmed by the sight of a store mannequin that was pinned down by the fallen display cases, which they mistook for a person. Said one anonymous party-goer, "It was really hard to tell the mannequins and the drag queens apart, because they were dressed so similarly." [P6]
Stores say that organized shoplifting is on the rise. In an annual survey, 96% of retailers say they have been the victims of organized retail theft, up slightly from 94.5% last year. Among the most-stolen items are designer jeans, infant formula, and gift cards. [WWD]
Ralph Rucci is into boxing. "It allows me to feel more in touch with my masculine self," says the designer. "It allows me to breathe easier and eliminate the anxiety under the breath." [The Aesthete]
Olivier Theyskens doesn't accept that fashion is art:
"I think the relationship is very tenuous, between fashion and art. Many designers have built relationships with artists, which is not something I personally did. But it's true, sometimes you see artists working for a designer or a brand on some specific project or taking care of their environment and making an amazing store. You have great partnerships happening and popping up between the art scene and the fashion scene. I think also that you have designers that have methodology that can be sort of artistic. Personally, I have had sometimes moments where I thought my idea behind the idea of a collection — the concept maybe — something that we don't see at the end on the catwalk, I think the way it was, the genesis in my mind, was probably artistic, an artistic approach. But I still keep, you know, sort of distance between what is fashion and what is art."
Theyskens is co-hosting the annual Whitney Art Party benefit tomorrow, which Theory is sponsoring. "As a person who is in women's fashion, as someone who is a part of a company like Theory, supporting an event connected with art doesn't mean we're artists. It means we're a brand, a fashion brand, and we're proud to support an event on the arts scene." [WWD]