We did not know that Debi Mazar, before she became a successful actress, food blogger, and the host of a cooking show, was a makeup artist. She did Madonna's hair and makeup for the Virgin tour in 1985 and the Who's That Girl Tour in 1987. Mazar describes the look she and Madonna created as "theatrical":
My only issue was trying to keep the makeup on her, so I tended to use a lot of creams because of the sweat factor. All those new ingredients like luminizers and silicones slip off-they look great when you're just sitting around, but on stage the makeup actually needs to hold on. So I used products that wouldn't fall off the face. I used pan stick on her skin, liquid liner to define her eyes, and I would rub lipstick on her cheeks to give them color. And back then they hadn't taken out the ingredients that really makes the color stick to your lips!
Mazar adds, "I was forever trying to get her to pluck those eyebrows. She would never go for it — it was her Latin heritage and she wanted to keep them. It wasn't until François Nars came in and convinced her to pluck them at a Stephen Meisel shoot that she agreed to do it." [Allure]
J. Crew did the fashionable thing for the fall and booked non-models for its ads. (Perhaps not coincidentally, they're all gorgeous and they look like they could be models.) The cast includes Le Figaro deputy editor Virginie Mouzat, Wonderland magazine fashion editor (and street-style star) Julia Sarr-Jamois (right), makeup artist Alice Lane, Tumblr's David Karp, and MoMA PS1's assistant director of development, Angela Goding (left). [WWD]
Photographer Hans Feurer talked through some of his favorite shots with the Cut. Of the one on the left, which ran in Vogue Paris, he says:
"They did a whole issue on ecology, and I thought ... maybe it would be funny to do a green tongue. It's actually Sasha Piovarova, a very famous model. I went around Miami Beach, where we shot at the time, and went to bakeries that had sweets and stuff, and was trying to see whether or not that would be enough to make a green tongue. But they said that I should go to the factory where they made the wedding cakes and all of that, they have some food coloring, so we found it that way. Then, I went back to the hotel and tried it myself, and it worked very well on the tongue, but my lips, and my chin, and everything was green, and I couldn't get it off. So I then spoke to the makeup artist, and he had an idea of using a certain cream on the skin at first, so it wouldn't stain the skin. It didn't take more than two minutes to do that shot, and then we stopped and washed it out right away, and it was perfect. But I tried it out on myself first to be sure."
And of the image at right, Feurer says:
"This is Stephanie Seymour, again when she was very young, in the Seychelles. She is not only a very, very nice person but she is also a very well-known American model, and also had an absolutely wonderful body, so it made it very easy to do pictures like this. There was a certain time with these waves coming in, very round without breaking, and I saw that and said, ‘Just try walking there, to that wave when it comes.' And I got this idea that I could do that sort of a shot ... I think one could say that maybe today, for example when I work with French Vogue, I have the privilege of working with very interesting ladies who are always extremely professional, and totally into the job, but on the whole don't show very much color apart from what has to do with the job one is doing ... It didn't used to be like that. One had a chance to have a more personal relationship and a little bit more time with things ... And that's not so much the case today, I guess, because many of these girls are trained like circus animals, to be let loose and to perform."
Customs officials have seized more than 20,000 pairs of counterfeit Christian Louboutin shoes at the Los Angeles port. The shoes, likely destined for swap meets, Web sites, and other grey markets, could have sold for as much as $18 million. [AP]
Neiman Marcus is preparing for an IPO. Its owners, the private-equity firms Warburg Pincus and TPG acquired the department store chain for $5.1 billion seven years ago, but the Journal reports that "analysts now say [it] probably isn't worth much more than $4 billion." [WSJ]
Opening Ceremony turns ten next month. The company was founded with $20,000 in savings "and some credit cards" by Berkeley friends Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Now — one hacking incident in their online store aside — the pair are in charge of eight stores, 200 employees, an Opening Ceremony clothing line that is stocked by around 400 retailers, and the creative directorship of the brand Kenzo. "I remember when I used to go to their tiny office with my own food," says Chloë Sevigny. "Now I go up there and it's this huge machine. They have water and almonds and blueberries and you can see how the company has changed and has grown enormously. I think of them as the downtown Charivari, or what Charivari used to be." [WWD]
Proenza Schouler is launching a new bag this November — presumably a follow-up to its immensely successful PS1 satchel — but it wouldn't even send it to Vogue for potential editorial inclusion because the company is so wary of knock-offs. When photographs of a collection circulate six months prior to retail deliveries, fast-fashion chains with shorter production lead times can often get knock-offs into stores before the originals. "That's really our only defense," against knock-offs, says company C.E.O. Shirley Cook. "We don't really release pictures." [Fashionista]
Calvin Klein and Kelly Klein, who divorced six years ago, both attended a dinner party thrown by Bruce Weber in the Hamptons. A "spy" told Page 6, "Everybody was watching to see how they would interface" — because that is how rich people talk, using words like "interface" where us plebs would say "talk" or maybe "interact" if we were feeling fancy — "but they just ignored each other." [P6]
Meanwhile, Klein's more recent ex, boy-toy porn star Nick Gruber, is out of rehab and shopping a memoir tentatively titled What Came Between Me And My Calvin. The proposal is, inevitably, the subject of a bidding war. [NYDN]
There was a rumor that LOVE magazine was to close. Editor Katie Grand says it's not true: "LOVE is not folding, we just published our most successful issue to date with 457 pages, 194 number of advertising pages, and up 10% from this time last year." [Fashionista]
Quarterly income at Limited Brands, the parent company of Victoria's Secret (among others), fell year-on-year by 37.9%, to $143.6 million. Overall sales fell 2.4%, but same-store sales were up a healthy 8%. [WWD]
Tia Cibani, the former creative director of Ports 1961, is launching her own namesake label. [WWD]
And now, a moment with Carine Roitfeld, who is about to launch her new magazine, CR Fashion Book. Carine, have you looked at Vogue Paris since you were ("reportedly") fired?
"I have not looked at French Vogue. It's like a divorce in a way. It's still very fresh; it's still very like my baby for 10 years. I prefer to take a big distance; maybe next year it will be finished. I don't do the magazine because I want revenge."