Marc Jacobs is known for doing grungy and purposely ugly clothes, and has said: "My clothes are not hot. Never. Never." But his muted yet sparkly collection for fall 2010 had a restrained sex appeal, despite the frump.

The collection was predominantly brown and gray, yet some pieces — like this exquisite coat — managed to be head-turning and bomb-shell worthy.

Of course, MJ has to add glasses and granny boots to hammer the "unsexy" point home. But this coat, with its exaggerated collar and cuffs, is gorgeous.

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A sumptuous retro-inspired coat, straight out of an Erté illustration.

The collection is not for PETA supporters: In addition to fur coats, there were bags of fur, ostrich and crocodile. Re: The socks. It doesn't matter how I feel about them. Looks like we're in it for the long haul.

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It's cool how he breaks up a monochromatic effect by using different textures and patterns.

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That said, I find a lot of it sooooo boring. Like this ensemble. But fans of Marc Jacobs will recognize this is as a classic, pure interpretation of his aesthetic.

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Victoria Beckham and Charlotte Gainsbourg should both order this look ASAP.

I referenced His Girl Friday last week, and must do so again: This coat reminds me of the one worn by "ace reporter" Hildy Johnson (played by Rosalind Russell).

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Do we like thick, structured wool over a diaphanous dress? Or does it look like the poor thing has left the house and gone to work in her nightgown?

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I'll admit that even though I dislike brown clothing, this dress is phenomenal. Simple, yet chic, sophisticated and easy to wear.

A bag destined to be a hit, even with the hefty price tag they'll slip on it.

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Reminiscent of Faye Dunaway in Network. Mad as hell and off to get a latte.

Classic MJ frump. Do not want!

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Proving that a skirt can be see-through and not sexy at all.

All of these frumpy bland-colored pieces just bore me.

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This shimmery coat is pretty great.

Finally, some color in a somber palette — unfortunately, it's hard-to-wear mustard. Still fascinating that it's a very specific hue, unique to this collection.

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Laid-back elegance.

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The cut and flowers make this seem like someone took a Vintage Marc dress and dipped it in silver.

Absolutely stunning, totally sexy — though not in an overt way.

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Buttoned-up, but playful.

Dreamy and billowing? Or awkward and rumpled?

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Winsome watercolor or wretched wallpaper?

[Images via Getty.]