"[H]is child/woman vintage looks had grown up beautifully....The collection was solid but never stolid...after trying to prove with last season's artsy complexities and boudoir transparency that he could match experimental international designers, he did something in this show that was actually much tougher. He gave a fresh and original polish to streamlined American style. It was a redemption for Jacobs and for a dull New York fashion season." So sayeth frequent Marc Jacobs-hater/International Herald Tribune fashion critic Suzy Menkes of the designer's Fall/Winter 2008 collection, which started exactly on time Friday night, thankyouverymuch. Annotated gallery begins below.