Four major labels — Marc by Marc Jacobs, Behnaz Sarafpour, Monique Lhuillier, and Narciso Rodriguez — showed their fall looks late yesterday, and though the collections seemed, at first, completely different, there was a major thematic similarity: namely, that they played against type. Rodriguez, celebrating his 10-year anniversary, worked with images from his own archives, playing with his signature body-conscious dresses and adding in some new silhouettes like boxy suits and jackets. Lhuillier, best known for her sophisticated yet playful eveningwear, upped the ante with looks that were less pretty and more punky. Sarafpour funked it up this season, sticking to her traditional shapes but infusing them with a rebellious palette and unexpected textiles. And as for Jacobs, well, he proved that he still has it, despite the naysayers who suggest otherwise: his diffusion line was youthful, vibrant, fresh, and never sophomoric. After the jump, Dodai and I annotate 10-image galleries of the good, the bad, and the ugly.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

Narciso Rodriguez:

Monique Lhuillier:

Behnaz Sarafpour:

Marc by Marc Jacobs