<![CDATA[Jezebel: vintage]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: vintage]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/vintage http://jezebel.com/tag/vintage <![CDATA[Love, Loss And What They Wore: What Old Clothes Are Saying.]]> This is seriously intriguing: Threadbared's pair of self-described "clotheshorse academics" have started a series of pieces exploring "the Politics of Vintage." And they're loaded:

Among the questions the authors tackle are,

* Is wearing a fashion from an oppressive time period indeed a symbol of that oppression?
* Is there such a thing as "reclaiming" these fashions so that they are symbols of power rather than domination?
* Should we only make patterns from the eras that were the least oppressive to women?
* If wiggle skirts and the like are offensive to those with feminist sensibilities, what is the alternative? I mean, what could we possibly wear that would establish us as feminists to those who view us?
* Are 50's wiggle skirts really that different from modern pencil skirts?
* What about current fashions that are restrictive? Stilettos, Spanx, etc? Skinny jeans? Are these symbols of oppression towards women?

Of course, these are questions that bedevil discussions of fashion of any era, but become particularly stark when the clothing is (literally) cloaked with context, that can't be dismissed. Call it ironic, call it homage, call it reclamation - there's no getting away from a statement of some kind. And there's also the draw many women feel to a silhouette that, often, is more flattering than those of a theoretically more sartorially-enlightened time. And even that becomes problematic: when we say "flattering," we still mean "showing off bodies in a traditional way." In short, it's a minefield! The blog quotes Gertie Lang:

But why do I like these looks? I hope it's not some sort of self-loathing that makes me want to wear a symbol of women's oppression. I simply prefer the silhouette of vintage fashions as opposed to the current styles offered by pattern companies. I think the design is better and the lines are more flattering. If you want to oppress me, try to make me wear a pair of skinny jeans!...I should also note that I like vintage patterns because I'm interested in the historical and archival aspect of it. I think that sewing my way through Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing is connecting me to women of the past. Doing this project, and researching the evolution of home sewing (women's work, no doubt), is a way for me to honor the lives of women past (however painful) rather than pretending they didn't exist.

Some people are put off by the idea of wearing used clothes; others love the ghosts they carry. (I've read that some psychics can't go into thrift or vintage stores because the barrage of information is too much.) And that's just the physical history; the intellectual is going to make for some timely debate.

On The Politics Of Vintage [Threadbared]

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<![CDATA[Vintage Ads, Courtesy Of Sterling Cooper]]> In this edition, Bert Cooper insists Pete Campbell's next ad campaign sends the white right message to clients. [Vintage Ads]

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<![CDATA[Buyer's Remorse: A Lament]]> The dress was unignorable. I knew from the start that it was a mistake. Like everyone else, I am trying to avoid impulse purchases and buyer's remorse. But somehow, I got carried away:

First of all, any kind of vintage clothing show weakens your defenses. In fact, I normally avoid them for just this reason: too much stuff, too many choices, and after a lifetime of thrifting the embarrassment of riches feels, well, embarrassing. And so I wandered the aisles, clutching a blue mohair turban, surrounded by eccentrics, and wishing I'd chosen to spend my Saturday a different way.

A ratty parasol caught my eye and I wandered over to inspect it. That's when she pounced.
"Oh my God," she said. "You have to try this dress. Will you try this dress? Look, David, she can totally fit into the dress. We've been waiting someone to try this dress."

She held up the dress. It was indescribable, although if I were to give it a shot, I'd have to say a 50's formal made in the image of a slutty shepherdess costume. With a corset. In gingham. I did not want to try it on. But I understood their dilemma; it was made for a short woman and if nothing else, I am short. Even so, I eyed it uneasily. "You don't have a dressing room," I said.

"You can put it on behind this," she said. Indicating a kimono hanging nearby. The kimono did not provide adequate cover, although given the population of the assemblage this was less of a concern than it might have been otherwise. I wrestled myself into the dress. It was tight; I had to suck in hard while the woman pulled the zipper and wrenched the corset strings cruelly tight. I stepped out and looked at myself.

The result was shocking. There I was, in a miniscule 50's formal slutty-shepherdess costume. Ruffles covered the bust. The skirt parted to reveal more ruffles, Marie Antoinette-style. Either some mid-century tramp had worn this for a theme dance or Mildred Baker, "Newberry Street" (sic), Boston, had let her creativity run wild on this one. I was speechless, appalled.

The booth's proprietors were also speechless, but apparently with awe. "It's perfect," breathed the woman - who, I should perhaps add, was wearing a men's sailor suit. "It was made for you," said her selling partner with conviction. "All you need are some hot boots." I did not find this reassuring. Then another woman came up. "Oh. My. God." She said. "That is amazing. You have to get it. You're getting it, right? Karen, come here. You have to see this." Karen approached. She was wearing a top hat. She, too, gasped in admiration. "If I could, I would wear that every day," she said.

I gave myself another look. Maybe it did look pretty good! "Well," I said uncertainly, "I don't have a Halloween costume..."

"Halloween!" gasped the first woman, as if I'd uttered a blasphemy. "You wouldn't waste that on Halloween! You could wear that anywhere!"

"It is unique..." I said.

"Oh, you won't find another one like that," said the proprietor confidently. "It was waiting for you."

"You could wear that to the clubs," said the "hot boots" guy. Never mind that I'd never been to "the clubs."

"It was made for you," repeated the owner. "I could do -" and she mentioned a figure I wouldn't normally have paid for something I liked, let alone this monstrosity. And yet, I felt my resolve weakening. Normally I am impervious to the hard sell, and my time in retail has given me nerve and cunning of my own. But they were so excited! Maybe it was the bright lights, the exhaustion, the row of letterman's sweaters and charm bracelets, but somehow I was starting to feel that I needed the dress.

"If you don't buy it," said one of the random women dramatically, "I will be devastated." She reached out and adjusted my breasts in the corset, then stepped back critically to survey her work. "Yes," she declared. "You need it."

"I should see what my friend thinks..." I said. I found my phone and tried her. She didn't pick up.

"We take credit cards," said the owner. She knocked off another five dollars.

"I'm just not sure it's me..." I tried.

"Are you kidding?" said one of them. "You are owning that! That could be from a fabulous designer with vintage edge." Her friend nodded enthusiastically. "A couturier," she added.

"Okay," I said defeated, with the feeling of making a mistake but buoyed by their evident excitement. "I'll do it. I'll do it." There was a collective cheer. My heart sank further as they ran the card and bundled the dress into a paper bag. "I am so glad," said one of the women, who was walking on. I gave her a wan smile. I was starting to feel the sick, unwholesome sensation on having spent too much, and not feeling good about it.

I hid the dress from my friend, whom I found examining a rack of scarves. Every time I felt the rustle of its crinoline my heart sank. Later I denied myself a delicious-looking piece of cake and a pair of kid gloves because I'd spent so much on the horrible slutty milkmaid dress.

When my boyfriend came home that night he found me staring blankly at Mother Angelica and clutching the dress in my hands.

"What's that?" he said carefully.

"Some old eccentrics pressured me into it," I said glumly, and held it up for his inspection. There was a long silence.

"Can you return it?" he said.

"No!" I wailed. "The show's over and they've gone back to Ohio! And I'd wear it for Halloween but I can't tell what it is! The only thing I can think of is how in Georgette Heyer novels there are always lots of trampy shepherdesses at masquerades, so maybe...I can be a 19th-Century demi-mondaine at a masquerade?"

He agreed this was a viable plan, but I could see he was being kind and anyway, knew that I'd been planning to dress as Norma Desmond.

I went to sleep, disconsolate. When I woke up, it was a new day - then I saw the dress hanging on the closet door, even worse than I remembered. But in the night, I had had a revelation. I would, I decided, do a high-concept costume. I would go as Folly. Because I would stand as a walking reminder to all who saw me. You really have to see it on - but you're not going to!

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<![CDATA[Or What?]]> I'm imagining an avenging army of steely-eyed white-gloved girls descending on some Madison Avenue office-building, Orpheus-style, to retrieve the stolen temp. [Vintage_Ads]

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<![CDATA["Stacked For Convenience"]]> Interesting comment from the original post: "Not only was Richard Deacon [at left] a big ol' mo, he wrote a Microwave Cookbook, of which I have a well-worn copy." Making this quite a unique ad pitch. [Vintage Ads]

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<![CDATA["Daring And Audacious?" That's One Way To Put It.]]> You too can have the confidence to maul and spank your employees if you don one of these pastel shirts! [Vintage_Ads]

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<![CDATA[WTF Moment In Retro TV]]> A young girl endures a specific kind of teasing when she gets a bad perm. Also: Is that Carrie-Anne Moss??!?! [Buzzfeed]

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<![CDATA[Visions Of The Clothing Of The Year 2000, From The 1930's]]> "Ooh, swish!" Here's a marvelous little video from the 1930's, wherein designers imagine what "Eve" might be wearing in the year 2000. Some of the predictions are spot-on; others are fairly insane. Clip after jump.




1930's Futuristic Fashion Predictions [Vintage Ads]

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<![CDATA[The Best Sears Kids' Fashions For Spring… Of 1972]]> Last week, we quarreled over qiana as we paged through the best women's fashions from this 1972 Sears catalog. This week is child's play! Psychedelic patterns, Perma-Prest pants and tiny trenches, after the jump.



While the colors and the patterns on these swimsuits are fun — and there's certainly more fabric here than in the entire Lucky shoot — the bloomer-ish bottoms make me think of "full" diapers.



I definitely had a windbreaker like this as a kid. And hey, look! An Asian model! Is the 1972 Sears catalog more diverse than Vogue?



Is it the insanely long crotch, the slight flare, or the sea-sick colors that make these jeans "nautical" ?



The Asian girl seems to be saying, "How come everyone here looks like Jan Brady except for me?"



Wow, strawberries! On pockets! Far out!



The young lady with the megacollar purple shirt is saying to her friend with the apple belt, "Mary Jo is always opening her skirt. What a slut."



"Hahaha, anyone know any good sailor jokes?"



Did you know that 1972 was the Year of the Dress? Apparently, it was also the year of red, white and blue. And gingham. And hideousness.



SOMEONE ALERT KANYE WEST!!!1!!!! Yeezy: The gauntlet has been thrown. It's your move.



Ah, "The Rugged Ones," for roughing it, out there in the harsh terrain of the strip mall.



"No way, Jose, my dad sells way more used cars than your dad."



I'm just going to go ahead and point out the fact that the kids with brown skin are not, repeat NOT in the hero cowboy gear. Instead, they get some sad buckskins they probably traded some land for. Really, though: It's not the '70s unless there's a dude with an Afro in a Native-American-influenced getup. See: Jimi Hendrix. And Cochise from The Warriors.



So, which drugs were popular in 1972? Marijuana? Shrooms? LSD? Is there another explanation for these pants?



Check out the saucy minx in the middle, exposing her yellow leg for all to see! Slow down, you move too fast.



"Special" is a good word for it. A '70s-PC way of saying, "more likely to get beat up on the playground," no?



"Elementary, my dear Watson. And by 'elementary,' I mean 'elementary school.' Where I will be going… someday."



Finally! A situation in which jumpsuits are appropriate. The pink "bubble" sunsuit on that little girl, however, still brings to mind dirty diapers.



And look! Speaking of poop: While she tries to hold it in, the elephant just lets loose!



Earlier: The Best Sears Women's Fashions For Spring & Summer …Of 1972

The Best & Worst Of 'International Male,' Summer 1986
The International Male 1986 Holiday Catalog: The Recockulous Jackpot!

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<![CDATA[The Best Sears Women's Fashions For Spring & Summer …Of 1972]]> Spring has sprung! And where else do we turn for stylish warm-weather duds than the faded, stained pages of this 1972 Sears catalog? Polyester, nylon and "qiana," after the jump!



The gentleman behind this posse of ladies is clearly intimidated by their matchy-matchy ensembles, which feature "wide ribbed texture." These pieces are made of Dacron™, Fortrel™, and poly-cotton blends. Props for the awesome Afro and the extremely patriotic vinyl shoes.



I love everything about this image, including the Angels & Demons Illuminati-esque red "beach shift," in oh-so-breathable acrylic/polyester knit. But the best part is that the "lobster" is an illustration that was added later. Even before Photoshop there was image tinkering!



Primary colors FTW!



First, I'm fairly sure that if you go to any crafty, hipstery part of town, you can find some version of each of these outfits. Second: Please note that red, white and blue were the colors of Spring 1972. Nixon was president and Watergate didn't break until mid-June, so everyone was all, USA! USA! Third, the red and white anchor pattern on the far right is the exact pattern of the curtains my parents had in their red and white Volkswagen minibus when I was a kid. True facts.



Maybe I am turning into a big old fuddy-duddy, but these swimsuits are so much more fun than the skimptastic ones in Lucky.



Seriously, look how cute. And you could actually swim without showing the fish an areola or pube.



More red, white & blue. Also: A Jumpsuit! Peeing involves removing a belt and shimmying a scoopneck neckline around your knees.



When they say "bazaar jeans," they mean "bizarre jeans," no?



Someone here thinks she is a Very Serious Model. Hint: The Brunette. She has Big Plans and they don't involve Sears, or "boy cut jeans."



She is working. This could be her big break! Yellow plaid pants be damned!



More super adorable swimwear, a steal at $6 per piece.



There she is again, on the far left. She's gonna be a star, dammit!



Um, I want the blue coat with the white trim. $22.97 seems like a good deal.



I used to have a "qiana" shirt I got at a vintage store. Did it have the "luxury of silk"? Well, it was silky, but it was POLYESTER. It was the hottest piece of clothing I ever owned. Just putting it on ensured that pit stains would appear under my arms. Why anyone would fabricate a long-sleeved dress out of that stuff is unfathomable. And $25 seems steep!



Fairly sure I saw this lady at the bank last week. As a teller. Same hair and outfit but 36 years older.



Hey! Is your Dacron, Qiana and polyester not really warm enough? Add a shawl! Not just any shawl, a Versa-Shawl. In "soft acrylic and nylon." Wearing near an open flame not recommended.



Knocked up? Don't worry, there's plenty of polyester for you, too.



Plus: Maternity girdles. "Gives you the support you need while you're pregnant." Would that be financial? Emotional? Oh, and re: the girdle with garters "For A First Pregnancy": I don't know what that means, but I don't know that I want to know.



You call them "Cover-Ups," I call them "the perfect blogging outfits." The UPS guy will see me as a lady of leisure and not just a slob!



The trussing on girdles like this always reminds me of meat. But this just isn't any old support: It's scientific.



Wow. Those wigs all get points for sheer vertical achievement.



My new all-chick punk band is called The Crushables. Starting now.



Just in time for summer: Workouts where you just stand there, or, better yet: Lie down.


Earlier: The Best & Worst Of 'International Male,' Summer 1986
The International Male 1986 Holiday Catalog: The Recockulous Jackpot!

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<![CDATA[This Lipstick Ad Will Blow You Away]]> It's fairly obvious that a man, and not a Peggy-Olson-ish female approved the art and was the creative force behind this vintage advertisement for Tangee lipcolor. Because: WTF? Click to enlarge. [Vintage Ads]

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<![CDATA[Back To The Future: Dizzy Heiress Is The New Black]]> As the red carpet at last night's Golden Globes illustrated, vintage style is still going strong.

The big look on the red carpet was straight-up 30's screwball comedy: bias-cut, slinky glamor that would have done Carole Lombard proud. Daring? Not so much. But it sure looked good. And apparently, this blast from the past was deeply reassuring on a psychological level — sartorial comfort food.

Says the FT,

The 'new nostalgia' is strikingly evident on the catwalk, as designers seek to evoke the reassuring certainties of the past amid shifting economic times....As winter deepens, fashion buyers say, customers will be taken further on a journey to decades past, with the influence of the 1930s and 1940s in evidence, along with a flurry of lace, frills, taffeta and demure Victoriana.

Everyone from Top Shop to Stella McCartney's going retro, with demure skirts and bias seams popping up everywhere.

Of course, economic downturns have often heralded as much innovation as conservatism; think Elsa Schiaparelli's depression-era fantasias; even amidst the 1970s' 40s revival, Vivienne Westwood was redefining designer style. Depending on where they stand, designers and the rest of us either have everything or nothing to lose.

We all like to think that we're above the vagaries of societal trend, but hours before the parade of neo-Edith Heads that marked the Golden Globes, I, someone who's never been drawn to 1930s clothes at all, found myself walking out of a thrift store with a depression-era green lace bias-cut evening dress (even though the Russian woman who sold it to me said it made me look "like baby" and then threw in a stained slip for free). Why? Surely on some level we all have a desire not just for a conservatism befitting hard times but also perhaps an instinctive need to contextualize things that scare us: we've seen this before, we can think, and it passed — it even provided us with glamorous fashion references! Put like that, everything's a big, manageable pageant that's within our control.

Designers Give Clothes Buyers The Reassurance Of Vintage Style [Financial Times]

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<![CDATA[The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1960s]]> As you may know, though Life magazine is no more, the Life magazine photo archive lives on, through a partnership with Google, and is slowly being made available online. Looking through the collection is unbelievably engrossing, but the funny thing is you never really find exactly what you think you're going to find. Still: The images are surprising, informative, and entertaining. Plus: You can purchase framed prints! We've been taking a look at women in several decades (previously: the '30s, the '40s and the '50s) and today, the crazy, swinging 1960s. The photos begin after the jump.


Joan Ganz Cooney, Director of Children's Television Workshop. New York, 1969.

Love this awesome woman's job, dress and corner office!


Son & widow of Medgar Evers attending his funeral after he was killed by civil rights opponents. 1963.

One of the many tragedies of the decade. Is it wrong to covet her hat?


An Egyptian state owned TV set manufacturing plant, where out of 600 employees nearly 1/2 are women. Cairo, 1963.

Amy Winehouse, is that you?


Sophia Loren about to kiss another woman (prob. sister). Rome, 1964.

Glamour, darling!


Fashion designer Emilio Pucci w. young women wearing his designs. Bahamas, 1968.

Original Pucci prints, in their original habitats.


Young Parisian women at a discotheque. Paris, 1963.

The hair. So chic.


Women taking a cosmetic course. East Berlin, Germany, 1967.

It is important to begin with a good, clean foundation.


London police women posing in new uniforms. 1967.

Fighting crime looks like so much fun!


One of the Bloomfield Hills society women who bowls in a league. 1962.

Of course one bowls in pearls. Don't be silly.


A comely women's bowling team. Dallas, Texas, 1960.

Don't you get the feeling these ladies were a "hoot," as they say?


Women admirers trying to touch John F. Kennedy during Presidential campaign. Texas, 1960.

People used to get excited about politics… We have come full circle.


Women wearing fancy eyeglasses worn at St. Luke's fashion show. Chicago, 1960.

Someone needs to have a party with a sparkly eyeglass theme, and quick!


Fashion model Donyale Luna wearing evening gown which is embellished w. shimmering sewn-on discs, while taking break from fashion show w. cigarette. Sydney, 1967.

Donyale Luna was the first black model to appear on British Vogue. She was fond of LSD and was one of the only black women to be part of Andy Warhol's studio. She died in Rome in 1979 of a drug overdose.


New York fashion 1969.

"No, I can't give you my phone number, because you remind me of my bedspread."


Singer Barbra Streisand (L) sitting with Marlene Dietrich (R) at fashion show. Paris, 1966.

Wow! That ensemble Barbra Streisand is wearing was totally recreated and on the cover of French Vogue!


"New Breed" - Fashion - Afro-Headdresses. 1968.

I don't know what it is, but I like it.


Fashion model Donyale Luna posing in see-through crocheted floor-length dress w. extreme cutout back, as other models strike posed in mod clothes behind her. Sydney, 1967.

More Donyale Luna. New obsession.


British fashion model Twiggy w. slumpy posture, at table in restaurant at Disneyland. 1967.

It's it odd that this woman would later become the nicest judge on America's Next Top Model?


Cover of LIFE magazine dated 10-17-1969 w. logo & photo of model Naomi Sims by Yale Joel w. legend "Black Models Take Center Stage."

Here's why it's so upsetting that mainstream fashion magazines these days tend to ignore models of color. It was not always so!


Children holding hands while crossing street, w. storefront in rear covered w. graffiti fr. '65 riots indicating black-ownership & support of violence. Watts, CA, 1965.

Almost 4,000 people were arrested in the Watts riots. Hundreds of buildings were destroyed and burned. Twenty-seven years later: the LA riots.


Actress Julie Christie. London, 1966.

Gah. Love.


LIFE cover, actress Mia Farrow. 1967.

Such an iconic image.


Actress Gina Lollobrigida feeding and petting a fawn. Toronto, 1960.

The deer is cute, but is anyone else distracted by her pointy, pointy bra?

Life photo archive [Google]

Earlier: The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1950s
The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1940s
The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1930s

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<![CDATA[The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1950s]]> As previously posted, the Life magazine photo archive is now available online. The collection is estimated to consist of more than 10 million photos, many of which were never published in the magazine and only exist as negatives, slides and etchings. You can search the collection for historical images, and if you want to purchase framed prints, you can do that, too. We'll be taking a look at women in several decades (previously: the '30s and the '40s) and today, the full-of-change 1950s. The photos begin after the jump.


Attractive young woman in Manhattan, 1953.

Loving the shoulders, loving the glasses, loving the slender, delicate wristwatch.


Woman working in office, New York, 1957.

This lady must have a cool job, what with the cropped hair and the black and the arty supplies. Ixnay on the iggarettesay, though.


Typical secretary working in office, New York, 1957.

Oh dear.


Teenagers spending evening at movies. 1957.

Check out his little pompadour and her little flats!


Woman wearing wide shoulder fashion look, 1959.

Oh, so that's how to make a waist look microscopic: Wide, wide shoulders!


Model blowing on red feather boa & wearing large rhinestone earrings & bracelets for article featuring "the little red dress."

Bring back the little red dress!


Sculpture By Picasso
Four unident. models in red dresses dancing Charleston for article featuring "the little red dress."

No, seriously.


Seven African American teens walking the steps to the school, while the white students are watching on during the demonstration regarding school integration. 1956.

The '50s were not all fun and games.


A woman wearing a crab hat at the League of Women Voter's Convention, Atlantic City, NJ, 1958.

No idea what is going on here, but crabby women get my vote!


Actress Debbie Reynolds, 1950.

Can you believe that this is Carrie Fisher's mom?


Little girl model at fashion show. 1950.

Suri Cruise 1.0


Baseball great Jackie Robinson (in football uniform) w. wife Rae (Rachel) (C) and actress Ruby Dee (R) who is portraying Rae in "The Jackie Robinson Story," on the film's set, 1950.

Must find those shoes!


Actress Julia Adams is carried by monster "gill man" in the movie "Creature from the Black Lagoon," 1954.

"Mom! Dad! I totally found a girlfriend!"


African Americans dancing to the jukebox at the Harlem Cafe in Greenville, S.C., 1956.

Wouldn't you love to know what's on the jukebox? (This image is by Margaret Bourke-White, one of most accomplished female photojournalists of her time.)


Actress Elizabeth Taylor, 18, at graduation time, posing at desk in classroom at Hollywood's University High School, 1950.

No more classes, no more books. No more teacher's dirty looks. If you know what I mean.


Actress Laurette Luez (L) appearing in movie "Prehistoric Woman," 1950.

Note to self: Rent this movie.


Woman Sherriff, 1950.

Where ever this is, there must not be a heap of crime. Women get the job done!


Singer Lena Horne (R) and Lennie Hayton announcing they have been married since 1947. Paris, 1950.

Don't you want to sit in Paris wearing a lovely hat and some pearls and smile like this?

Straw Hair, 1950.

This photograph was taken backstage at a play by legendary photographer Gordon Parks, whose life was simply amazing. He shot quite often for Life.



French Fashion Models. 1950. By Gordon Parks

This Gordon Parks image seems worthy of buying, a framed print of these chic souls (and those Eames chairs!) would be a really nice gift. Cough.


Peruvian singer Yma Sumac, wearing native dress. 1950

Get to know the fabulous late Yma Sumac. Please.


Wives waiting impatiently for their military husbands to come home. 1951.

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Oh, and that one soldier is all, hmm, she is cute.


Portrait of singer/actress Dorothy Dandridge, 1951.

Stunning!


Hawaiians celebrating their admission to the US. 1959

This one is for the cheek-pinchers out there.


Harlem Debut, 1950.

Debutantes! So much tulle.


Hollywood Community Chest Fashion Show, 1950.

Gorgeous dresses, and lusting after the chandelier!


Earlier: The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1940s
The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1930s

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<![CDATA[The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1940s]]> As previously reported, the Life magazine photo archive is now available online. The collection is estimated to consist of more than 10 million photos, many of which were never published in the magazine and only exist as negatives, slides and etchings. You can search the collection for historical images, and if you want to purchase framed prints, you can do that, too. We'll be taking a look at women in several decades (previously: the '30s) and today, the war-torn 1940s. The photos begin after the jump.


Model showing off Lafaurie corduroy coat to group of admiring women. Paris, France, 1948.

God, I love the giant, poufy hair here. And the collars on all of the dresses.



Women & children models wearing inexpensive fashions. New York, 1945.

"Hey Margaret, I'll be having a stiff drink later, can I interest you in one?"
"Why yes, Doris, I'll need a double!"



Women protesting for a raise. UK, 1949.

I certainly hope they got what they wanted.



Crew cuts for women. US, 1949.

Any of these would work now, no?



Crew cuts for women.

Alternate view!



Two women riding their bicycles. France, 1940.

Everything about this looks awesome, despite the cobblestones.


African American women and white women working in the "Dead Letter" office. US, 1944.

Uh-oh, the dead letter office, where mail checks in and never checks out.


Student Carol Newcomb displaying the new American Look in women's fashions. US, 1945.

Her swimsuit is great, but is that pavement really the best she can do? No sand or grass to be found?


Women working in a gas mask factory. US, 1940.

Thank you for all your hard work, ladies!



Women jockey's leaving jockey's quarters for track. US, 1940.

Giddyap!


Chinese girl holding currency. China, 1945.

This is completely out of context, but sort of amazing.



American women playing bridge. US, 1947.

An incredibly early version of "Bish, plz."


Women sitting at a bar and having drinks. US, 1947.

Margaret and Doris finally get some booze!


Women truck drivers. US, 1942.

Tough, tough ladies. And the boots! And the trousers!


Nurses aboard Hospital Ship "Relief." Hawaii, 1940.

That game doesn't look very fun, but I am loving the wide-legged jumpsuit and the polka-dot dress.


University of Hawaii girls who are chosen by the student body to serve as Princesses and Queen in annual May Day ceremony held at the University. 1945.

So gorgeous. How I wish this photograph were in color.


People dancing at Rainbow Club U.S.O. Hawaii, 1945.

Hmm, they're not really jumping and jivin' — must be a slow jam.


Women's Club,Westport, 1947.

Gossip & gin!



Life Photo Archive [Google]
Earlier: The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1930s

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<![CDATA[The Way We Were: Life Magazine Photos Of Women In The 1930s]]> Even though Life magazine is no more, the Life photo archive is now available through Google's Image Search feature. There are more than 10 million photos, many of which were never published. About 20% of the collection went online yesterday, and Google will be adding more in the coming months. You can search for historic photos and etchings, from the 1750s to today, and all of them are for sale, should you want one framed in your bedroom! Even though I could have started in the 1890s, with Queen Victoria, I decided to begin in the 1930s, when photographers like the very famous Alfred Eisenstaedt were shooting for Life. Over the next week, I'll check out the 1940s next (I've already peeped some images of ladies wearing leis at a naval base in Hawaii!) and then the '50s, the '60s and so on. Women of the '30s, after the jump.


Young woman looking stylish in evening suit of chiffon, satin and velvet typical of 1930's fashions. UK, 1934.

Don't you wish you could see more detail in her jacket? I think it might be awesome.


Model wearing fashionable fur-trimmed coat with Russian Wolfhound dog at her side. 1929.

Loving the hot dog!


Russian woman grimly holding a slab of meat as other peasant women staunchly stand by in Siberia. 1931, by Margaret Bourke-White.

You can literally see the determination in their faces. Strong, strong people.


Good generic of woman operating sewing machine. UK, 1935.

What is she making? A shirt? Pajamas? Another snappy shirtdress?


Portrait of a woman in Harrar. By Alfred Eisenstaedt, 1935.

Ooh, an Alfred Eisenstaedt. This one would be great framed. Harrar is a city in Ethiopia, btw.


A Hungarian woman driving home the geese. Hungary, 1937.

No one rocks embroidery like this anymore. No one.


Woman sunbathing on the French Riviera. Cannes, 1938.

Awesome how while everyone else is all covered up, the French are rolling their swimsuits to be more skimpy. Vive la France!


Fashion buyers watching a young woman model new lines of fashion. US, 1939.

Fashion Week didn't always mean pandemonium and B-list stars.


Woman receiving a beauty facial complete with mask. New York, 1937. By Alfred Eisenstaedt.

The more things change, the more they stay the same! I just saw a terrifying Juvenique video on BoingBoing today!


A man and woman smoke cigarettes while riding aboard the El Capitan. US, 1939.

Something tells me this woman was a cool customer, fun to be around.


A woman modeling a new fashion at the Country Club. Palm Springs, CA, 1939.

Didn't Katie Holmes just wear this?


A woman showing off her new play suit. Palm Springs, CA, 1939.

I can't decide what I like better, her "play suit" or her manly, manly friend.


Life Magazine Images Find New Life On Google [Globe & Mail]
Life Photo Archive [Google]

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<![CDATA[Free People: More Overpriced Thrift Store Crap Masquerading As Vintage Chic]]> God, I hate the new Free People catalog. I hate the faux-cigarette burns or whatever those are on the cover. I hate that there are illustrations of clothes inside. I hate that the weathered, worn, clothes that you'd find on the floor at the Salvation Army often cost over $100. I hate some other stuff, too: Seethe with me, after the jump.









What's ennui selling for these days? Well, when it comes in the form of a cotton/polyester "girlfriend jersey" that seems like it ought to be free as a hand-me-down from your cousin, the answer is $128.

The studded vintage combat boots are $388, which just seems ridiculous, but I guess people want their shoes broken in for them. The "Arizona Eagle" necklace and the "Alaska Eagle" necklace are both "imported." Haha.

I don't know, I just can't get with these "artsy" printed T-shirts at $78 each. I can't decide if they are more hideous when illustrated or when worn with suspenders. I mean $158 bridle leather braces. Sorry.

All of these bags, which look like yard sale rejects, are over $150.

Ugh. Katie Holmes! See what ye hath wrought? I'm sure some of you are psyched about this boyfriend jean trend but I predict bad things for myself and the large-thighed like me.

Dress, $128; belt,$128, splattered dots on the page that make me think of germs and toxic mold: Priceless.

Okay, so remember the boat on dry land trend? Finally, someone's up the creek without a paddle.

I love Chucks. I have lots of Chucks. But when Chucks are sold "vintage" and "studded" and for $168, they're over, right? Right?

Free People [Official Site]

Earlier: Summer At 'Free People': Crafty Crocheted Crap, At Twice The Price Of Thrift Stores!
Free People: Hideous Iron-Curtain Nostalgia Will Set You Back A Few Rubles
Free People, August 2007: Luxuriating Lolitas and $400 Shoes
Free People: Someone Watched The Darjeeling Limited Before Booking This Photo Shoot
Urban Outfitters, Free People & Anthropologie: What's The Difference?

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<![CDATA[Oldies But Goodies]]> Two amazing retro ad campaigns today: The first is for New Freedom maxi pads. You know, the pads who wear jewelry? And shoes? And carry parasols? The other is for Big Mama pantyhose, plus-sized stockings with a cotton crotch. In fact, the word crotch appears several thousand times in the text, and the plus-sized models think it's high-larious. Click the picture to see both ads. [Vintage Ads]





newfreedom011608.jpg

bigmama011608.jpg

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<![CDATA[Is It "Sort Of Egotistical" That Marc Jacobs Wants A Reality Show?]]>

  • Marc Jacobs wants a reality show, and Project Runway's Tim Gunn wants it for him. "The whole thing's sort of egotistical, I suppose, but I do find myself entertaining," says Jacobs. And says Gunn, "God knows Marc has a fascinating life, and he looks great. I'd watch." Well, if it has Tim's vote... [NY Mag]
  • Marc Jacobs' kidswear line Little Marc is opening up a little store. [WWD, 5th item]
  • Sex and the City wardrobe spoiler. Says Patricia Field: "Without giving too much away, there is a shoe from Dior that Carrie wears all the time that I am sure will be on fire... My intention in the movie was to approach it realizing that four or five years have passed... there are little twists on Carrie that will be an opposite approach from the image we have of her, like a heavier shoe or studs." [WWD, 2nd item]
  • Jason Schwartzman is the new face of indie fashion label Band of Outsiders. Is that name sort of self-awareness wrapped in irony wrapped in self-awareness wrapped in sincerity? Or is Jason Schwartzman just a bad fit? [WWD, 2nd item]
  • Fila has launched a contest on its website, asking brand-devotees to submit photos of themselves that answer the question "How do you Fila?" Not that it's an invitation for teenage boys to submit photos of themselves "fila"-ing up girls who are "fila"-ing horny or anything. [MediaPost]
  • Kohl's, meanwhile, answers this question and says, "With us!" A new Fila for Kohl's line will be in stores next fall. [WSJ]
  • Giorgio Armani visited Australia this weekend so he could, um, bond with the beneficiaries of the "biggest single financial donation to an Australian theatrical institution," his declaration of "patronage" to the Sydney Theatre Company, helmed by Cate Blanchett. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • And in other self-congratulatory Armani-speak, Giorgio also says, "Cary Grant is still the man. He managed to look good in a suit even while running across a field being chased by a plane. My friend George Clooney has that quality too - he looks effortlessly smart whatever he is wearing. I'm flattered that he chooses to wear my designs." [Vogue UK]
  • Valentino: Also humble! "People say, 'Oh, Mr. Valentino, fashion without you is very sad.'" [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Damon Dash-better half Rachel Roy just got an undisclosed amount of funding from TSM, a firm that also just purchased 22% of English label Matthew Williamson. Not sure why she needs the money, but, ha ha, just kidding. [Vogue UK]
  • Bebe: No longer designing with fur! PETA likes this! Bebe: Still selling fur! PETA does not like this. [PETA]
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<![CDATA[What A Dildo: Designer Tom Ford's Phallic Fragrance]]>

  • Will someone please explain to us what Tom Ford has against women? In addition to the image at left, the new ads for his Tom Ford for Men fragrance feature a fully-naked woman with an oversized bottle of the fragrance "wedged" between her thighs. [WWD, 1st item]
  • Speaking of fragrance, the latest Estee Lauder fragrance being shilled by Gwyneth Paltrow smells like marshmallows. If anything makes us gag more than Gwyneth, it's the idea of smelling like S'mores. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • More proof that the fashion industry sorta sucks: Ann Taylor's chief marketing officer has thrown in the towel. [WSJ]
  • The first-lady-to-be of Turkey is modernizing the Muslim symbol of female modesty, the head scarf, with inspiration from Italian sexpot Sophia Loren. [Guardian UK]
  • Sadie Frost, the ex-Mrs. Jude Law, says her clothing line FrenchFrost's latest collection is inspired by imperfection. Because she no longer finds beautiful men perfect. Uh, bitter much? [Vogue UK]
  • Big trend alert: Wearing vintage! [ABC News]
  • Who will wear Balenciaga's Fall/Winter shoe designs? Uh, rich bitches and wannabes. [Sassybella]
  • Japanese model Sayako Yamaguchi died yesterday at the age of 57. [Breitbart]
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