Love the vivid hue on this pseudo-'80s number, which just seems really surprisingly wearable.

A hip coat to turn an overworked office drone into a city-chic gal about town.

Animal print doesn't seem like it goes with the rest of the collection at first, but the truth is, it's bold without being over the top. Work-appropriate stuff for real women is what Tracy Reese does. So this fits.

Cropped jacket + cropped pants = spring freshness.

This bubbly pattern is made of win.

The orange pedal pushers are just plain cute.

Sunny yellow, in an easy, summery dress.

More intense color, which just feels really optimistic. Everything is gonna be okay!

Not sure about these pieces being styled together, but the top with white trousers or the skirt with a white tank would be spot on.

Reese can do a strong animal print dress, and a whimsical bubble-print dress, and then also a dreamy, soft, light-as-a-feather sheath like this one, in the palest hue.

I can't explain what's going on here, I just know that I like it.

More sweetness and light.

Swingy polka dots, but done in a really different and modern way. Love it!

Steely gray with a structured bodice won't work on all bodies, but it's certainly sophisticated, and even better: Pretty.

Keep the floral frock; lose the gift wrap.

Loving the way this divine dress is constructed: Shows off the collarbones, cinches the waist, has pockets! Two, please.

The lady takes a bow.

[Images via Getty.]

• People love Posh's dresses. Net-a-porter.com sold out in one day, and Posh herself stopped by Neiman Marcus to instruct sales associates and top customers in the ways of the frock. Thirty pieces were sold. [WWD]

• Roberto Cavalli yesterday said that he will show Just Cavalli in Milan — albeit not on the runway. Following the bankruptcy of the diffusion line's primary licensee, Itierre, Just Cavalli's future was in doubt, despite the fact that the expanding chain has stores scheduled to open this year. But the designer says that he will show Just Cavalli to a select group of editors at showroom appointments tomorrow, before making an announcement about the future of the brand. Surely there must be a manufacturer somewhere willing to produce the brand. [FWD]
• The gist of this story is: Michelle Obama. Still wearing clothes. There, I saved you three minutes. [WWD]
• Saks is troubled. After holding 75% off sales all last November and December — a situation the company CEO says "you'll probably never see again" — it still had to lay off workers in the new year. And in leading the deep-discounting department store pack last winter, Saks achieved the triple whammy of pissing off its vendors — who didn't appreciate their wares getting the TJ Maxx treatment from a trusted name — losing $98.75 million of company money in three months, and spawning endless trend stories about whether consumers will ever be duped into paying $700 for a pair of pumps again (the magic eight ball says: not any time soon). Well, the CEO held an investor conference call and said some reassuring things that made the share price jump almost 13%; then the CFO happened to mention that, worst case scenario, the company does own some very nice real estate. Which it could sell. Presumably not at 75% off. [NY Times]
• Halle Berry and Jenna Jameson launched namesake perfumes in the same week. Weird. [Beauty Counter]
• In other news of celebrities who want a piece of the retail maelstrom, there's a certain pink-haired Canadian pop-punk sprite who would like to sell you her pajamas. They're black and neon all over, and have some weird-looking lace insertion-looking parts to the top. Not that anyone would dare call her complicated. [The Life Files]
• Scarlett Johanson, the face of D&G makeup, is a safe bet at the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan on Monday. [WWD]
• Adam Lippes' Mango diffusion line goes on sale March 1. The women's clothes seem to exhibit a nice sense of proportion, and there are some potentially cool black strappy not-too-gladiator-looking sandals. But there are men's wear looks styled with notched-lapel jackets and — wait for it — dress shorts. I just don't know how to feel about that. [Racked]
• Not battening down the hatches are the Olsen twins, whose contemporary Elizabeth and James line is moving into men's wear. Their other label, The Row, has a men's wear division that has proved very popular very quickly. [WWD]
• Speaking of the Olsens, their Elizabeth and James shoes are about to launch, and will go on sale through Steve Madden stores. Although there is no pricing information as of yet, they'll be significantly more expensive than Steve Madden's other wares. [FabSugar]
• Moise de la Renta, who I am pretty sure does not have a degree in communications, does have a fashion line. MDLR, announced last summer, is finally here. [Style.com]
• Should you ever want to imitate the shiny corpse lip some of the models wore at Marc Jacobs, key makeup artist for the show François Nars explains how. It involves putting eyeshadow on your lips. [NY Times]
• True Religion posted double-digit sales and earnings increases for all of 08 — and the fourth quarter. [WWD]
• Old Navy is chasing the "quirky" 25-35-year-old customer. Its new campaign features a flier that looks like a mock celebrity magazine, and they would like to remind everyone they sell clothes for $5 and $10. [AP]
• Fourth quarter profit for the Limited brands fell 96% on last year. At least they still had a fourth quarter profit! [AP]
• The sound of Karl Lagerfeld's taste dying is a low, battery-powered hum. Which reaches a top speed of 12 mph! The Chanel Segway, a thing you can buy, is here. [The Cut]

Amnau Eele of the BAA says she plans to make a formal appeal to the First Lady's office:

"It’s fine and good if you want to be all ‘Kumbaya’ and ‘We Are the World’ by representing all different countries. But if you are going to have Isabel Toledo do the inauguration dress, and Jason Wu do the evening gown, why not have Kevan Hall, B Michael, Stephen Burrows or any of the other black designers do something too?”

Here's the thing: Of course there's pressure on Michelle Obama to be the ultimate, best, most amazing black woman ever, and lift up every black person in the world with her awesomeness, buying power and fashion sense. But. She is a Harvard-educated lawyer from Chicago who likes J. Crew. Can't she wear just whatever she wants? Yes, it's important to support black designers, who don't generally get a fair share of the market — in fact, usually there's only one black designer who shows at the tents during New York Fashion Week: Tracy Reese — but surely Ms. Obama has priorities. And perhaps seeking out black designers isn't one of them. And let's be honest: Is it even fair to create a world in which successful black people "had better" wear clothes by black people, listen to music by black people and hire black people, or else?

In any case, Michelle Obama has been First Lady for two days. Give her time, and surely she will wear something by an African-American designer. Perhaps in the next issue of Vogue, which could hit stands — with Ms. Obama on the cover — in a few weeks?

As for BAA's Eele, who was once a runway model (walking for YSL, Armani and Bill Blass), she was asked by WWD if maybe Ms. Obama is looking at the world colorlessly? Responded Eele: "It’s one thing to look at the world without color but she had seven slots to wear designer clothes. Why wasn’t she wearing the clothes of a black designer? That was our moment."

First Lady Under Fire... [WWD]
Vogue's Michelle Obama Treatment [WWD]

First: There's nothing here by popular American designer Marc Jacobs, because his Spring 2009 collection was just too weird for Ms. Obama.


But what about the always classy Oscar De La Renta?


This pale, lean column would be a breath of fresh air!


What about a bouquet of flowers? Optimistic and gorgeous, especially for March. There's another floral dress de la Renta designed for Spring that could work, as well.


Perhaps some understated glamour? Ms. Obama has fantastic shoulders, and would look regal in this.




Maybe Carolina Herrera would be a better choice:


A beautiful, ruffled gown in Democratic blue! (It also comes in red, which Ms. Obama looks great in.)


Or, imagine Ms. Obama's skin against this sunny, bright yellow.


This straight-and-narrow ivory column is graceful and timeless.




Consider this: Michelle Obama wore a dress by Thakoon at the Democratic convention, and he has a few designs for Spring that might suit her: pink and floral, slouchy, modern metallic or fluttery ruffles.

But perhaps she should try young designer Peter Som:


Even though it's casual, Michelle Obama could rock the hell out of this blue shirtdress.

Ditto this shimmery blue jacket and skirt. Plus, don't you think she'd really, really like this graphic dress? Totally up her alley.




Michelle Obama looks amazing in color. Maybe the editors of Vogue could choose something designed by fashion's comeback kid, Isaac Mizrahi?


This pink frock is feminine and strong at the same time.


Orange would definitely pop on the cover of a magazine. She'd also look great in this incredibly romantic pink gown by Mizrahi.




But, in this writer's opinion, the editors of Vogue should put Michelle Obama in a dress designed by Tracy Reese. As the only black woman to show in the Bryant Park Tent during Fashion Week in New York, Reese is an inspiration, just like Ms. Obama. And Tracy Reese makes exquisite garments:


A dreamy, shoulder-baring dress could be a soft, pretty cover choice.


Something truly unique, like this painted frock, would be interesting.


What about a whisper-soft, romantic gown that would make Michelle look like the Goddess of Spring?


When blue and red states come together, you get a strong, fierce purple. Michelle Obama could make a statement without saying a word!




Memo Pad: Michelle Obama to Vogue? [WWD]
Blake Bags Vogue, Too [Fashionista]

According to StereoHyped, Behnaz Sarafpour used one black model; Rodarte used one; Jill Stuart used 4, up from zero last season. Calvin Klein used one. Monique Lhullier used none. Reuters reports that Vivienne Tam also used none.

After writing about this subject repeatedly, it's still shocking to see a post by a commenter on StereoHyped which reads: "Please explain to me why this is such an important issue?" It's incredible that people really don't get it. Having only white models on New York Fashion Week runways sends a dangerous message: That there is only one high-fashion "look," and it is to have pale skin. During Fashion Week, reporters come from around the globe, photographers take pictures that are seen in hundreds of countries. New York is a cosmopolitan city where it is unacceptable to tell a woman you're not going to hire her because she is black. And yet, for the past few years, that's exactly what has been happening in the fashion industry. In New York.

So, are things slowly getting better? "Visually on the runways, it has improved," model mogul (and organizer of the "Absence Of Color" summits) Bethann Hardison tells Reuters. "But the results are still racist. [Designers] choose the same white and never go towards the brown or the dark."

Fashion Week Features Few Black Runway Models [Reuters]
Black Model Watch: Spring '09 Fashion Week [StereoHyped]

Earllier: Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash

Actress Zoe Saldana was next to Nigel, wearing something shimmery. They were inundated by photographers and video cameras. I'd arrived at 2:45 for the 3pm show; it was 3:35 before two men in black t-shirts and black pants peeled back the protective plastic covering on the mirrored runway. Then: Darkness. The show started. Brazilian music, white bikinis, red retro one-pieces. Lots of red and white, then some green neutrals. Oh, and black models! I especially liked one white suit with a belt of bling; the hideous brown pirate sleeved cover-up that came later, not so much. In any case, if you're the beachy sort who has a swimsuit wardrobe, this show is for you. Gallery below.

Rosa Cha:

Later that night, it was still pouring like crazy, but I was back in midtown for the Patricia Field show at the Edison Ballroom on 47th street. Her line is designed by David Dalrymple, and the scene in the ballroom was less stuffy fashion show and more fabulous downtown party. The music was loud, there was an open bar, and the crowd! It was a mix of club types, celebs and drag queens.
Andre J was there!
Also: The Legendary Lady Bunny! Seen here with an absolutely shocked Vanessa Williams. Also in attendance from Ugly Betty: Ana Ortiz and Judith Light. Project Runway's Jack Mackenroth was in the front row, across from Patricia Field herself, who was never without a drink in her hand.

I arrived at 8:45 for a 9:00 PM show and at ten minutes after 10:00, I thought it would never start. Then Becki Newton, aka Ugly Betty's Amanda walked in and sat next to Jack Mackenroth, and the show started. While the clothes were hit and miss, the presentation — each model headed to a "destination" on stage: A cruise ship, a disco, a funeral, a car race — was pretty cool. Oh, and black models! Gallery below.

David Dalrymple For Patricia Field:

Sunday morning at 11:30 AM, I was back at the Tent for the Tracy Reese show, but there were protesters outside shouting, "DKNY has got to go!" It was sort of early for blood-splattered bunny suits, but I took a picture anyway.

Tracy Reese is one of the few black designers at New York Fashion Week. Sitting in the first seat in the first row — his seat number was A:1:1 — was Andre Leon Talley. Also in the front row: Miss Jay from America's Next Top Model, wearing jeans with elaborately stitched back pockets, Fashion Week prez Fern Mallis, Sanaa Lathan, and some people I couldn't see from where I was sitting, boo. Okay, the clothes: Dreamy, romantic, soft, with sparkle and beading. The trench coats were beautiful, in supersoft-looking fabrics, and there were some dresses with delicate fabric flowers or frothy appliqués that just looked heavenly. Looking at the pictures later, not everything looks as good as it did in person, but I liked the overall feel and mood.

Tracy Reese:

All in all, despite the weather, it was a typical fashion week experience: Lots of standing around waiting, some clothes, some booze, some celebrities. I don't know how the rest of the designers are faring, but I saw diverse runways at all three shows — Tracy Reese has always used Asian, black and white models. We'll see if this first weekend was a sign of things to come or if it all goes downhill from here.

Writes Huguenin:

[Jill Stuart] Company CEO Ron Curtis blamed a dearth of choices, and noted that two of the most popular black models, Jourdan Dunn and Liya Kebede, had been pursued for the show but booked for Calvin Klein in a competing time slot. "Of course we always try to have a diverse cast," Curtis says of this season's show. "but it isn't completed, so we really don't have a confirmation before the show, as things can change up until showtime."

Well that doesn't sound promising. (In stark contrast: menswear designer Carlos Campos will debut his women's collection with a lineup of all black models on Monday.) Simon Doonan joins those who want to see more diversity; he thinks it's more important than thin models. "The archetypes are extremely thin, but that will change," he says. "A much bigger issue is why they're not using more African-American girls."

Meanwhile, the struggle continues. "I saw about 400 girls, again, as I do every year," says Roger Padilha, creative director of MAO PR. "My exact number was 378, from 10 agencies. And of those girls, I'd say that I saw about eight black girls. Some… were not very good, so it isn't like I really have eight black girls to choose from. I have about three or four that made it into my 'yes' pile. So it's frustrating."

Sometimes when we call attention to the lack of minorities on the runways, a reader inevitably comments something like: "What does it matter? It's the designer's vision. Maybe his or her vision is of a leggy blonde." Just a reminder: It matters because fashion is global. The world looks to New York as a fashion leader. It matters because you shouldn't be not hired for a job because of the color of your skin. It matters because the world makes no sense if a black man can run for president but a black woman can't be seen wearing Jill Stuart on a catwalk.

Issues Of Race And Ethnicity Follow The Runway During Fashion Week [NY Daily News]
Simon Doonan: Lack of Diversity on the Runways Is a Bigger Problem Than Thin Models [NY Mag]

Earlier: On The Runways Of Milan, Color Just Wasn't Considered Chic
Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways

Keegan Singh, stylist:

Every show I've been styling this season has had all ethnicities represented. I work with a designer to help them achieve an overall modern look. To get a modern look, you need to represent a diverse group of people. You can't seem modern if you're only showing how one group of people look.

I just like the look of having a diverse group of girls. I shouldn't say this, but I actually lean towards darker girls versus all those washed-out pale girls. I just don't look how all those pale, blonde girls look. I totally shouldn't say that! But, I don't know if there's anything the industry as a whole can do about diversity. As a designer, it's all about what your vision is of who your woman is. How do we make a standard for who you imagine your customer to be?

You make clothes for anyone who would happen to like you taste: That's what fashion is. And guess what? That's not all white women. Not just white women like clothes — I don't know why the industry hasn't realized that yet.

I don't cast models for who they are, but for how they fit a certain image I am trying to create. The image I have of who my customer is...I'm always thoughtful about making sure there's a broad range of girls in the show — it's nice to have a range of looks. But really, I don't think the problem is with us. We are not not casting models of different races. The problem us there aren't enough working ethnic models...There aren't enough minority girls to go around, so they're only walking in a few shows. That's just how it is.

Of 103 runway shows, there were 2,278 chances to feature a model on the runway. Of these, women of color (meaning black, Asian or noticeably non-white Hispanic) were used 298 times. An Asian model was used 124 times, a black model was used 112 times, and a Hispanic model was used 62 times.

In other words, the runways were 88% white or European. (According to the census, the U.S. is 73.9% white; that's a non-white population of almost 30%. New York City is 37% non-Hispanic white; 28% black; 27% Hispanic of any race and 10% Asian. )

Of the women of color, the majority were Asian.
41% Asian; 38% black; 21% Latina.

Black models were used a mere 5% of the time.

Because we counted instances of black models and not the models themselves, this number does not mean that 5% of the models were black. Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn, Atong and Samira walked in multiple shows.

Here are examples of castings for a few of the top shows:

Erin Fetherston
Chanel Iman, black
Daul Kim, Asian
Han Jin, Asian
Hye Park, Asian
Total models of color: 4
Total white models: 23
Total models: 27

DKNY
Jourdan Dunn, black
Daniela Borges, Brazilian*
Total models of color: 2
Total white models: 21
Total number of models: 23

Diane Von Furstenberg
Liya Kebede, black
Samira, black
Du Juan, Asian
Atong, black
Maria, Latina
Joan Smalls, black
Georgie, black
Lee, Asian
Alek Wek, black
Emma Pei, Asian
Camila Finn, Brazilian*
Bruna Tenorio, Brazilian*
Total models of color: 12
Total white models: 31
Total number of models: 43

Calvin Klein
Liya Kebede, black
Total models of color: 1
Total white models: 20
Total number of models: 21

Donna Karan
Chanel Iman, black
Total models of color: 1
Total white models: 22
Total number of models: 23

Jill Stuart
Total models of color: 0
Total white models: 20
Total number of models: 20

Jovovich-Hawk
Total models of color: 0
Total white models: 3
Total models: 3

Luca Luca
Atong, black
Total models of color: 1
Total white models: 19
Total models: 20

Tracy Reese
Sasha Gaye-Hunt, black
Dahlia, black
Hollis Wakeema, black
Sonny, Asian
Mo Wandan, Asian
Lily, black
Britnee Nicol, black
Cecilia Mendez, Argentine*
Total models of color: 8
Total white: 15
Total: 23

Zac Posen
Du Juan, Asian
Liya Kebede, black
Jourdan Dunn, black
Chanel Iman, black
Han Jin, Asian
Bruna Tenorio, Brazilian*
Total models of color: 6
Total white: 40
Total: 46

According to the Daily News, Michelle Smith, the designer behind Milly, blamed the modeling agencies for the lack of black models. "They're not giving us any people to choose from," she said. Funny how Zac Posen, Diane von Furstenberg and Tracy Reese didn't seem to have a problem!

Jourdan Dunn, who is British, is gearing up for London Fashion Week, and, reports This Is London, she's worried about the lack of diversity on those runways as well, saying: "London's not a white city so why should our catwalks be so white? I go to castings and see several black and Asian girls, then I get to the show and look around and there's just me and maybe one other coloured face. They just don't get picked."

*Clearly, many Brazilian and Argentine models are of European heritage; we tried to include the ones who offer a different look than the pale, Eastern-European model dominating the scene right now, like dark-eyed, dark haired Bruna, who is of indigenous Brazilian descent.

Earlier: In The Wake Of The Summits...
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways

• The facts speak for themselves: Heidi Klum is designing a capsule collection for Jordache, for which she has been modeling over the past year. Think she'll offer hair extensions to cover nipples as well? [WWD, sub req'd]
  
• Kathy Hilton just released her own perfume. It's called "My Secret." We don't really want to think about what Kathy Hilton's secret might smell like. [BellaSugar]
  
• Gloria Steinem would not approve: Georgina Chapman, Marchesa designer and wife of Halston co-owner Harvey Weinstein, was named "Georgina Weinstein" on her front row seat at Halston yesterday. Only, as Chapman herself put it, "I didn't change my name, they did it for me." [WWD, 1st item]
  
• Jimmy Choo's CEO Tamara Mellon thinks that boyfriend Christian Slater should take a more active, or acting, role in fashion. Mellon says Slater would be "perfect" to play Halston in any upcoming biopic on the designer. [WWD, 1st item]

• One last Halston item! Rachel Zoe, who sits on the label's creative advisory team, wasn't at yesterday's debut show. A rep for the label was quick to issue a statement that Zoe has not been fired. Um, the lady doth protest too much? [WWD, 2nd item]
• Does the fashion industry hate the Bush Administration? Laura Bush is having a luncheon next week for all the designers who participated in this year's The Heart Truth's Red Dress Collection but Nicole Miler, Donna Karan, Carmen Marc Valvo, Tracy Reese, and Marchesa designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have all said that they won't be able to attend. [WWD, 3rd item]
• Is anyone else depressed that Naomi Campbell and Andre Leon Talley collaborated to star and style in a SoBe "Thrillicious" commercial? [Fashion Week Daily]
• Burberry faux-fur parkas actually use dog fur. Fun! [UPI]
• Charges have been dropped against the manager of the Abercrombie & Fitch store in Virginia Beach, who was scapegoated by a cop whose delicate sensibilities were offended by A&F ads. [MSNBC]
• The latest item up for sale under Bono's (Product) RED line: The Mulberry Roxanne bag, done in sweatshirt material (red, naturally), for the Gap. [Sassybella]
• Count Fergie in as the latest face of MAC Viva Glam lipstick. [WWD, 2nd item]
• Brittany Murphy on Mr. and Mrs. Max Azria: "They're a very nice family, with great morals, very grounded. Plus, they'll even invite you over for Shabbat dinner. Who would turn that down?" [WWD, 4th item]
• Model Caroline Trentini has declared that she will be donating a percentage of her earnings from New York fashion shows to the Center of Support of Underprivileged Children with Cancer in her native Brazil. [WWD, 5th item]
• Is model/First Lady of France Carla Bruni pregnant with a son? [Vogue UK]
• Just what the world needed: Chocolate Armani Easter eggs. [Fashion Week Daily]
• Avon profits have dropped by 30%. There is no time for beauty in a recession. [Breitbart]

(Click on any image in galleries to begin the show)
BCBG:



Nicole Miller:



Erin Fetherston:



Baby Phat:



Abaete:



Alexandre Herchkovitch:



Sass & Bide:



Rock & Republic:



Herve Leger:



DKNY:



Tracy Reese:



Diane Von Furstenberg:



Miss Sixty:

• Following in the footsteps of designers Tom Ford and Donna Karan, sixties fashion icon Arnold Scaasi will appear on Martha Stewart's morning show on Monday. Martha is totally fashion's new alpha tastemaker! And you thought you had to be a frigid, humorless bitch who never eats for that job! [WWD, sub req'd]
  
• Shopping for the lazy just got that much easier: Home Shopping Network to introduce system where products may be purchased through use of remote control. [WSJ, sub req'd]
  
• Victoria's Secret is cutting back its marketing expenditures as a result of crap sales, which can only mean Karolina Kurkova will have to take a pay cut. However will she eat? [Marketing Daily]
  
• Tom Ford says an eponymous womenswear line is to come. Some joke about clothing the naked starlets blah, blah, blah. [Vogue UK]

• Antonio Banderas wants hot, young men... to wear his new fragrance. (Why, what did you think we meant?) [WWD, sub req'd]
• Covert mission possibly in place to find a designer to succeed Valentino. And the woman behind the curtain just might be fashion pinch-hitter (she took over briefly when Tom Ford left Gucci) Alessandra Facchinetti. [WWD, 1st item]
• Hmm, maybe Valentino's successor should be designer Tracy Reese, of whom Vogue's Editor-at-Large Andre Leon Talley says: "If Valentino had a daughter, she would be Tracy Reese." Yeah if Valentino was straight and into black women! [WWD, 2nd item]