Tatiana is on a roll! Her writing is as good as anything you're likely to find in the Gawkersphere on a particular day. Hope to see more of these articles.
It's funny--I literally just (I mean, less than an hour ago) finished reading Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster. It talked about the mass-marketing of luxury goods (exceptions: Hermes bags, Chanel perfume, and anything custom-ordered, which you can do at most houses).
Middle class consumers are a huge part of the profit for luxury goods companies. Most people, even most wealthy people, cannot afford a $75k gown. But most (or at least many) people can afford a $20 lipstick, a $75 bottle of eau de parfum, or a few hundred dollars on a purse. 40% of sales at lots of the luxury stores are made "in the first room" where the small leather goods are. These are also the easiest to sell, because there is nothing to fit--you like it, you buy it. End of story. Middle class consumers want their goods splashed with logos; the truly wealthy don't want any at all.
My mom has a Coach purse from the 80's that, other than being a somewhat dated silouhette, is still highly wearable. A few years ago, she wanted to buy a new one, and we actually had a bit of trouble finding one that was (a) made of leather and (b) didn't have a gigantor logo on the flap. At the lower-rent mall near her house, they almost exclusively sell the canvas C logo ones. At the fancy schmancy mall downtown, they have nicer, logoless ones. And $1200 cashmere lap blankets. Drool.
@babyruthless: I've had good luck finding plain leather at the outlet. I don't care for the logos either; if I'm going to drop even outlet-sale cash like that, I want leather. It's true I haven't been in a couple of years, though. There's only so much use an old mom/grad student has for high-end leather goods.
Not that I am encouraging anyone to spend 50K on a crocodile bag, but the Hermes waiting list isn't necessary to get a bag. I read all about it in Bringing Home the Birkin by Michael Tonello (great book btw, he's a wonderful storyteller).
Basically, you go into a Hermes store (preferably a smaller, more obscure one -- Tonello went all over Italy and France), drop a couple thou on scarves and belts and whatnot, then casually ask if they have any Birkins and what do you know, they inevitably do. He got hundreds of Birkins this way (he was an eBay reseller). Basically, if you are willing to pay the "entry fee," you can bypass the list, which is maintained not because the bags are indeed rare but because Hermes wants to retain its air of exclusivity.
I've always thought that the Birkin was a pretty boring-looking bag anyway. :p
@LvV: I like the way it looks, but I think it would drive me nuts to have to open the flaps every time I needed something. I have a lot of open-top bags for that reason.
i feel like such a hippie when the gasp of disgust leaves my mouth upon reading that people justify buying themselves $50,000 handbags and $75,000 dresses.
@msAnthrope: word. the last time i spent over $25 dollars on a bag was over 2 years ago, and it was because a) i worked at banana republic at the time, and got a great employee discount and b) the bag in question, with my discount, still only cost around $90.
i consider myself fairly frugal, though i still spend an inordinate amount of money at the liquor store and whole foods.
I have heard that LV bags are not made with leather: it is chemically treated fabric, a linen I think I was told. Tons of $ for logo-printed fabric? OK!
And another thing: last time I was in Ross, the lady behind me in the cashier line and I started to chat: She is a Frenchwoman, shares her time here in SF Bay area and in Paris. Ross is her store. She can shop in Paris, and chooses to shop at Ross. A friend of hers travels all the way from Paris to shop at Ross. That is all I needed to know!
@DellaStreet: I had that same conversation with someone who swears by Kate Spade. Me: "But it's just nylon!" Her: "But it's really good-quality nylon!"
I'm no shunner of bags; I have several leather Coach bags that I love, and whether it means outlets or eBay, I try to buy the best I can afford because I like things that last. But LV seems very overpriced to me. Then again, I'm relatively poor, and not generally that nosy about what other people do with their money, unless they're constantly bitching that they can't make rent.
I saw Valentino: The Last Emperor last week, and it seems to touch on many of these points. Watching Valetino and Giancarlo Giametti disagree with the young guy who was put in as president of the company was just heartbreaking. I imagine that is what it's been like at many of the houses that have been bought by LVMH and PPR and other conglomerates. High fashion just seems to mean less than it did even ten years ago.
That movie also made me want to wear couture every day. I cannot fathom the skill it takes to make even one of those gowns. Valentino said that at one point, they bought a single sewing machine for the one hundred women working in his atelier. No one ever used it. That would be worth paying for (if I had the money). What's not worth paying for is another LV bag. Whenever I see someone carrying one, I tend to just assume it's a knock-off anyway.
@Dictator for Life: That's so true about LV bags. Even if I could afford one, I wouldn't spend my money on one. The brand has lost its prestige and looks "cheap," for lack of a better word.
@Rare Affinity: I'm pretty sure she means only luxury watches. You know, the kind that get sold at Baselworld. That category has been doing about as well as Hermès' super-expensive leather goods. At least so far.
I really hope the recession creates a permanent change in American consumer spending. According to The Story of Stuff, if everyone in the world consumed at the rate of the average American, we'd need 3 to 5 planets...
@MissSkittles is not your kind of lady: Precisely why I loathe LV. If you want me to walk around like a human billboard for your brand, you'll have to pay ME hundreds of dollars, not the other way around.
Juicy Couture is another one that comes to mind, though I have a bag of their I like that is nice with a teeny, inconspicuous logo.
This changes nothing about the way I shop - I couldn't afford it before and I can't afford it now.
I do really enjoy the deconstruction of "luxury" or perceived "luxury" pieces. The transition from high-end, but accessible to "luxury" item is an interesting one that goes to show just how important and manipulative marketing is.
If Prada were to sell a dress for $200, it wouldn't sell as well because the general audience high-end brands sell to are usually drawn to buying that brand because it's a sign of wealth and because it costs so much, so make it cost less and it won't be worth as much to those who usually buy it.
At least that's my take on the high-end fashion industry.
@karmasutra: I agree and have noticed the same thing.
For example, the homeless look: an insect infestation level of holes in t-shirts, ripped everything and so on. I see this on the street and I think "ehh... that looks like someone I would see on Fashion People" but once its on the runway it somehow earns the labels of edgy, avantgarde and a whole lot of other complimentary shit.
So yes, I agree it definitely it more of a status thing.
Before the recession, I wore slacks, a button-down and a tie. After the recession, I wore slacks, a button-down and a tie. Men's fashion is already investment fashion, woohoo!
06/12/09
06/11/09
Middle class consumers are a huge part of the profit for luxury goods companies. Most people, even most wealthy people, cannot afford a $75k gown. But most (or at least many) people can afford a $20 lipstick, a $75 bottle of eau de parfum, or a few hundred dollars on a purse. 40% of sales at lots of the luxury stores are made "in the first room" where the small leather goods are. These are also the easiest to sell, because there is nothing to fit--you like it, you buy it. End of story. Middle class consumers want their goods splashed with logos; the truly wealthy don't want any at all.
My mom has a Coach purse from the 80's that, other than being a somewhat dated silouhette, is still highly wearable. A few years ago, she wanted to buy a new one, and we actually had a bit of trouble finding one that was (a) made of leather and (b) didn't have a gigantor logo on the flap. At the lower-rent mall near her house, they almost exclusively sell the canvas C logo ones. At the fancy schmancy mall downtown, they have nicer, logoless ones. And $1200 cashmere lap blankets. Drool.
06/11/09
06/11/09
Basically, you go into a Hermes store (preferably a smaller, more obscure one -- Tonello went all over Italy and France), drop a couple thou on scarves and belts and whatnot, then casually ask if they have any Birkins and what do you know, they inevitably do. He got hundreds of Birkins this way (he was an eBay reseller). Basically, if you are willing to pay the "entry fee," you can bypass the list, which is maintained not because the bags are indeed rare but because Hermes wants to retain its air of exclusivity.
I've always thought that the Birkin was a pretty boring-looking bag anyway. :p
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
i consider myself fairly frugal, though i still spend an inordinate amount of money at the liquor store and whole foods.
06/11/09
And another thing: last time I was in Ross, the lady behind me in the cashier line and I started to chat: She is a Frenchwoman, shares her time here in SF Bay area and in Paris. Ross is her store. She can shop in Paris, and chooses to shop at Ross. A friend of hers travels all the way from Paris to shop at Ross. That is all I needed to know!
06/11/09
I'm no shunner of bags; I have several leather Coach bags that I love, and whether it means outlets or eBay, I try to buy the best I can afford because I like things that last. But LV seems very overpriced to me. Then again, I'm relatively poor, and not generally that nosy about what other people do with their money, unless they're constantly bitching that they can't make rent.
06/11/09
06/11/09
That movie also made me want to wear couture every day. I cannot fathom the skill it takes to make even one of those gowns. Valentino said that at one point, they bought a single sewing machine for the one hundred women working in his atelier. No one ever used it. That would be worth paying for (if I had the money). What's not worth paying for is another LV bag. Whenever I see someone carrying one, I tend to just assume it's a knock-off anyway.
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
[www.monocle.com]
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
Juicy Couture is another one that comes to mind, though I have a bag of their I like that is nice with a teeny, inconspicuous logo.
06/11/09
I do really enjoy the deconstruction of "luxury" or perceived "luxury" pieces. The transition from high-end, but accessible to "luxury" item is an interesting one that goes to show just how important and manipulative marketing is.
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
At least that's my take on the high-end fashion industry.
06/11/09
For example, the homeless look: an insect infestation level of holes in t-shirts, ripped everything and so on. I see this on the street and I think "ehh... that looks like someone I would see on Fashion People" but once its on the runway it somehow earns the labels of edgy, avantgarde and a whole lot of other complimentary shit.
So yes, I agree it definitely it more of a status thing.
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09
06/11/09