<![CDATA[Jezebel: scent]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: scent]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/scent http://jezebel.com/tag/scent <![CDATA[Confidence In A Bottle. No, Literally.]]> And not just Rachel-Zoe-literally, either! This new perfume is designed to boost your sense of self:

It's the brain-child of Michelle Roark, the 2009 U.S. freestyle skiing champion (who, yes, also studies chemical engineering) who credits some of her success to a custom scent, yes, Confidence. ("Ego" was apparently already taken by the hundreds of celeb unguents flooding the agora.) She's also concocted Focus, Balance, Adventure, and Imagination. And while this may all seem more "snake" than "essential" oily, she's a true believer, telling the Wall Street Journal, "It's not just mumbo-jumbo...There is a science behind it."

You don't need to have studied Stanislavsky to know about scent memory, and scents like Roark's work on the same principle. As the WSJ explains,"scientific studies have shown that smell and emotion exist in the same network of neural structures known as the limbic system-an ancient core of the brain that dates to the beginning of human evolution." Otherwise known, yes, as "aromatherapy." And the problem, as killjoy scientists are quick to point out, is that everyone's associations are different: if a horrible relative always had grapefruit breath, that's not going to spell "energizing" as much as "nausea." I like the smell of Lysol disinfectant because it reminds me of my grandma, but I'm guessing this isn't a winning formula for "Comfort."

So, yeah, chances are Confidence's success is down to placebo effect. But so what? That's real, too. And it's always unwise, it seems, to overestimate the skepticism of the buying public. We want to believe! And a vial of perfume is a lot safer - and cheaper - than a vial of Beta-blockers. And clearly the manufacturer has faith in her product, which is a lot more than you can say for most snake-oil salesmen. The danger, of course, is in attempting freestyle skiing under the influence.

Can Perfume Make You a Winner?
[Wall Street Journal]

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<![CDATA[Eau De Jingoism]]> Apparently we're all total perfume chauvinists: The Independent finds that homegrown scents do best on their own turf. No word yet on the implications for citoyen du monde Anthony Banderas. [Independent]

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<![CDATA[Sweet Smell Of Success]]> Fragrance designer Christophe Laudamiel has worked for five years on a "scent opera," Green Aria, in which a series of scents tell the audience of the struggle between nature and art, with accompanying music. [WSJ]

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<![CDATA[The Sweet Smell of History]]> The city of Grasse, the center of France's perfume industry since the 16th century, has reopened a museum dedicated to the history of scent. The more you know: Marie Antoinette loved violet perfume. [NPR]

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<![CDATA[Japanese Website Is On The Scent]]> A Japanese website uses an online map to locate unusual smells. Since the site's launch last month, the members of the "Smell Club" have identified more than 160 odors in 68 locations. Rather than just cataloging pleasant smells, members are so devoted that they seek out scents like "toasty odor of cow dung" or "cat halitosis." " [The Guardian]

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<![CDATA[Odor Eaters: B.O. And Why Men Buy Cologne]]> Apparently men need to be tricked into wearing cologne; then they love it. But do we?

According to a story in the new issue of the Economist, selling men on scent is a tricky business, and a lot of companies have to couch it as "aftershave" and "deodorant." But a new breakthrough study reports that men are so sensitive to the way they smell that — get this — "when a man changes his natural body odor it can alter his self-confidence to such an extent that it also changes how attractive women find him."

In the article (a section of which is oddly titled, "Born chicka wah, ker-ching chicka ching,") the author explains that perfume and cologne use fall into three basic categories: masking odors; pheromones; boosting natural smells. These all are sort of real and mostly psychological. And it's the psychology that's important: which kind of explains why guys drenched in vile scent apparently have no problem attracting women.

But, what I wonder is, does the confidence a scent imparts actually offset the negative associations some of us have with cologne? A lot of women, after all, hate it with a visceral passion. "Cologne" as a concept can signify cheesiness, vanity, a certain horrible hybrid of B.O. and chemicals, and middle-school nerds awash in Cool Water. It's one of those ingrained double-standards a lot of people just can't fight. While women are encouraged to change scent with their mood, the same behavior would seem suspect in a man. The much-ballyhooed metrosexual backlash led to a lot of pieces claiming women just wanted manly smells — B.O., sweat, that kind of honest stuff.

So, if a lot of women hate cologne — not all, obviously — why does the wearing of it create such confidence in men? Are they that susceptible to lame "Axe Effect" style campaigns? Do they feel that bad about their natural odors? Are they that convinced that "cologne" equals seduction and effort? And if that's true, why is it so hard to get them to wear it in the first place? Is it more that they need to be convinced, but once they are, they are sold? Or do they require this kind of scientific justification to feel okay about wearing perfume? Or — and here is a big question? — do men not know how women feel about cologne? Inquiring minds — and noses — want to know.

The Scent Of A Man [The Economist]

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<![CDATA[Higher Smelling]]> Save the beer, vomit and weed jokes: Masik Collegiate Fragrances of Harrisburg, Pa. makes perfumes that capture the essence of an alma mater. Katie Masik came up with the concept a year and a half ago and went into business with her family, designing perfumes that "are both literal interpretations of campus smells and the mental image of the school" and apparently catering to a crowd that enjoyed college a lot more than we did. Accordingly, eau de Penn State has notes of "vanilla, lilac rose and white patchouli;" the men's version is heavy on blue cypress. Those of us who went to urban schools may call for a more assertive fragrance. [NPR]

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<![CDATA[The Sweet Smell Of Success]]> Hey, if Jessica Simpson can have a fragrance, why not Jessica Dunne? The Chicago artist, who had no experience in the beauty industry, spent about $100,000 of her own money to produce "Ellie," "a quaint floral heavy on lily of the valley" based on her memories of her grandmother. Her success story is the definition of "heartwarming," from her childhood perfume bottle collection to the family focus group to the hand-tied bits of grosgrain ribbon on the little faceted bottles. The buyer at Bendel's who took a chance on Dunne "had a hunch that her clients would respond to the brand story." They did: although the perfume retails for $180, it's sold well enough that Dunne is launching a second scent. Maybe the time is right for a celeb-fragrance backlash: amateur perfumers, wave of the future? We smell a business op... [NYT]

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<![CDATA[The Way To A Lover's Heart Is Through The Nose]]> We're not the only ones who love burying our noses in a lover's T-shirt [Or hairy armpits! -Ed.]: Researchers from the University of Pittsburgh found that 90% of women have deliberately smelled a partner's shirt. (What's wrong with that other 10%?) Over half of men did, too. A majority of women also reported sleeping in or next to their partner's clothing. The researchers say that this "comfort smelling" is widespread within families — mothers have a scent bond with their babies, and some mothers will put their pajamas in a child's bed when they can't be there at bedtime. (It's not just the women: A man reported smelling his father's clothing when his dad was away. Plus, Brokeback Mountain!) But are women are especially sensitive to smell?



According to another study, ladies consider a man less attractive if they sniff something foul while looking at him — even if he's not the source of the stink. Pleasant and neutral odors make women find men more handsome. What is it about smell? And why does it make us feel things? Bruce Turetsky, a University of Pennsylvania associate psychiatry professor, says scents may "have a greater ability to bring up an emotional memory in you than seeing a picture or hearing a voice." Turestky found that sense of smell can also be linked to emotional disorders; In one study, he measured the olfactory organ sizes of patients with schizophrenia (a disease characterized by emotional flatness) and they were 23 percent smaller than normal.

Meanwhile, Marissa Kristal of Psychology Today polled her girlfriends by asking them to smell certain scents and then describe how they pictured the man who'd wear them. Nivea aftershave balm made them think the guy was "soft and smooth"; Demeter's Grass fragrance prompted them to imagine a "very manly" outdoorsy guy and a Bulgari cologne made them conjure up a "confident, practical and handsome" man. Hmm, what would they say if they got a whiff of Vulva?

A Sniff of Your Sweetie [Psychology Today]
Beauty Beat: The Nose Knows [Psychology Today]
The Emotional Power of Smell [Psychology Today]
Earlier: Upper East Siders Love Crotch, Hate "Vulva"

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<![CDATA[Sarah Jessica Parker's 'Covet': Do. Not. Want.]]> This commercial for Sarah Jessica Parker's new fragrance Covet gives us second-hand embarrassment. Whereas the tagline for her first perfume, 'Lovely', went for "enchanting," Covet's ad aims for "bewitching," but really we just end up with witch, and we can't help but think of her abrasive look in Hocus Pocus. The googly-eyed close up at the end is really creepy, but not as creepy as the fact that digital correction has erased every line on her face. We guess that when it comes to perfume, people don't like the smell of crow's feet.

Sarah Jessica Parker Beauty

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<![CDATA['Vulva': The Perfume Of The Panty-Minded]]> When we first discovered the fragrance Vulva, the "beguiling vaginal scent," we thought it was some sort of weird German art project. But no! It's a legit business that bottles pussy stank in those '80s Less Than Zero cocaine vials and calls itself not a perfume but a "smelling substance for your own pleasure." The FAQ on its site reminds us that Vulva is not suitable for anyone under 18, and that it should not come in contact with mucous membranes. Watch the video/commercial here. (NSFW)

Vulva Original [Vulva]

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