<![CDATA[Jezebel: rick owens]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: rick owens]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/rickowens http://jezebel.com/tag/rickowens <![CDATA[How Long Until Fat-Hating Fashion Stylist Invokes "But I Love Beth Ditto" Defense?]]>

  • The stylist who allegedly walked out on Mark Fast's show says it wasn't because the models were too "fat" - but because they were too fat to walk right! "The walk is very important,'' she explains. [Mirror]
  • The stylist in question is reportedly Erika Kurihara, fashion editor at hipper-than-thou London style mag i-D. [Frockwriter]
  • "Another studio insider, Amanda May, has since tweeted that the names of the three models in question are Hayley, Laura and Gwyneth and that the company is 'so happy we stuck to our guns about the casting.'" [Frockwriter]
  • Says Fast's creative director, "The decision to use fuller girls is something we have been talking about. There's an idea that only thin and slender women are able to wear Mark's dresses and he wanted to combat that. We wanted women to know they didn't have to be a size zero to wear a Mark Fast dress - curvier women can look even better in them." [Daily Mail]
  • Burberry's multi-pronged approach for getting down with the kids: broadcasting their fashion week show online; Facebook; Twitter; and social media site, "Art of the Trench," which "will encourage customers and fans of the brand to upload pictures of themselves sporting a classic Burberry trenchcoat." [Racked]
  • Wait, what? Apparently Clint Eastwood owns a clothing line, Tehama, and it's been bought by Nacabi Inc. [WWD]
  • Kelly Cutrone: "I'm, like, the patron saint of interns. I made interning famous." Well, maybe Venerable. [New York]
  • The ever-modest Tim Gunn on being named a "Top 5 Silver Fox": "Well, that's very flattering but I think someone is a little cuckoo." [MediaBistro]
  • And who's the Loaded Gunn's favorite superhero? Batman, of course - "the most debonair of superheroes." [USAToday]
  • A Philip Lim VIP show: An intern covered in vom and a careening model. Like a PhiDelt party, plus pleating. [Racked]
  • Yoko Ono's fashion show for threeASFOUR is exactly as you'd imagine a runway show by Yoko Ono. Check it. [FashionWeekDaily]
  • And Rick Owens' furniture line is exactly as you'd imagine a furniture line by the punky designer. "He calls the antlers on his angular plywood chairs "brutalist crowns," and said he loves the way their elegance contrasts with the chairs' crude wooden shapes. Plywood is one of his all-time favorite materials, and a staple, "the washed black leather," he said, of his furniture collections." [WWD]
  • Perhaps inevitably, Yasmin LeBon has designed a fashion line, for Sir Philip Green's Wallis chain. It's allegedly very glam, and very good. No word on whether the iconic "Rio" video was an influence. [WWD]
  • Louis Vuitton hits a snag in its epic fight to protect its TM: they've lost a fight to get Google and other search engines to stop using their name. [Telegraph]
  • DeBeers - which has been linked to blood diamond mining - is talking about the role of diamond mining and climate control. Says the director: "We are making sure that we do not waste any water and that we have stepped up our programs." [WWD]
  • Donatella Versace regards the recession as an "opportunity." Says the tanned titan vaguely, "The crisis is a big opportunity — it offers more stimulus for creativity ... more ideas come about." [Reuters]
  • In case you were wondering what Lady Gaga considers the best costume for the Vogue offices? Here's Grace Coddington: "She was wearing Philip Treacy's hat with Vogue written on it when she came to see Anna, and when she came to see me the next day she had sprayed her hair red." [Fashionista]
  • In their continuing desperation to change their staid image, the Gap is collaborating with awesome illustrator Garance Dore on a line of tees. [ElleUK]
  • Twiggy is the subject of a retrospective exhibit at the National Portrait Gallery. Quoth the too-nice-for-ANTM super, "It's hysterical, and incredibly flattering. I think when you're living a life you don't mark down "this is this, and in 40 years' time I'm going to be that", you just live your life." [Telegraph]
  • If there's one name you take away from London's Fashion Week, people, make it Christopher Kane. He is hottt. [NYTimes]
  • And his TopShop line is, not shockingly, flying off the shelves - particularly the "crocodile dress." [Racked]
  • Victoria Beckham and the other WAGs (for Yanks, that's "wives and girlfriends" of football stars; think, for fashion week purposes, Kim and Nene) have hit fashion week in full force, [ElleUK]
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<![CDATA[Scary Loves Posh's Clothes; Jennifer Connelly Models Anti-Gravity Shoes]]>

  • Did L.A. boutique Maxfield drop Victoria Beckham's dVb in favor of Holmes & Yang? Posh's people say Maxfield hasn't ordered the line for three seasons, and the decision had nothing to do with Katie Holmes, who is Posh's friend. [P6]
  • Luckily, old bandmate Mel B says she loves Posh's clothing lines. "I'm going out with Geri and Emma while I'm here — and I'll be wearing one of Victoria's dresses," the singer told a crowd in London. [Daily Mail]
  • American Apparel is laying off 1,500 workers — more than 10% of its total workforce — because of immigration violations. When ICE raided its factory in downtown L.A. two months ago, 1,600 workers were found to be unauthorized to work in the U.S., and a further 200 were found to have immigration irregularities. Company founder Dov Charney released a statement saying: "Many of you have been with me for so many years, and I just cry when I think that so many people will be leaving the company. It is my belief that immigrants bring prosperity to any economy." This is the latest in a long line of bad news for the company. From being dogged with sexual harassment lawsuits, to the $5 million settlement it had to pay Woody Allen in May after using his image on billboards without authorization, to this week's reprimand from the British Advertising Standards Authority for "sexualising a child," American Apparel can't seem to keep its house in order. [LATimes]
  • There are behind-the-scenes shots of Lily Allen working with Karl Lagerfeld on the new Chanel Cocoon bag campaign. [DailyMail]
  • We don't doubt that Patrick Demarchelier is planning to shoot 100 top models in Fashion's Night Out t-shirts outside Bryant Park on September 9, but somehow we think someone got confused when noting that "Iman and her daughter Chanel" would be among them. [WWD]
  • OMG! Modelfights on Project Runway: Models Of The Catwalk. [P6]
  • If you have any interest in beautiful, softly draped leather jackets, deconstructed tee shirts, or vaguely gothic skintight pants — or if you just want to know where that ubiquitous no-closure wraparound sweater, like a high-fashion snuggie ancestor, that everyone from Alice + Olivia to Eileen Fisher has knocked off came from originally — you need to learn about Rick Owens, now. And how his aesthetic is back in a big way just now. [NYTimes]
  • Speaking of which, peep Jennifer Connelly in the British InStyle in Rodarte thigh-high boots and Olivier Theyskens' gothic heel-less 8" runway shoes. [Daily Mail]
  • Also big for fall, at least in men's wear: Steve McQueen. [WSJ]
  • There's a rumor going around that Peter Som is set to become the first creative director of Tommy Hilfiger. [WWD]
  • Thom Browne is launching two new lower-priced lines for Spring 2010. [WWD]
  • Mark your calendars! She by Sheree, apparently some design offspring of a Real Housewife, is coming to Fashion Week. [People]
  • Juergen Teller, who shoots all of Marc Jacobs' campaigns, reports that only one set of images has ever caused any particular controversy — and it's not the ones of a then-12-year-old Dakota Fanning, which even the photographer calls "very hard-core." In Fall of 2006, Jacobs chose makeup artist Dick Page and his partner, James Gibbs, to star in the campaign, and Teller shot the couple making out in the woods outside their home. There was a furor: Men's Vogue even refused to run the ads. [The Moment]
  • Kenny Chesney says his new clothing line, Blue Chair Bay, is designed to reflect his life off the stage. "I would wear these clothes in Malibu, East Tennessee, where I'm from, or on my boat in St. John," the singer explained at MAGIC, the apparel trade conference that just ended in Las Vegas. Chesney's apparel partners had an airstream full of clothes and purposefully-weatherbeaten blue wicker chairs parked in their booth at the show. [WWD]
  • Daisy Lowe's jewelry line with Swarovski is said to feature pieces inspired by the stars, moon, and planets. [Elle UK]
  • Derek Lam's CEO, Jan Schottlman, denies the anonymous reports published by Page Six that the company is haemorrhaging money. [The Cut]
  • Dooney & Bourke are going back to models for their campaigns after seasons of using actresses. Hayden Panettiere is getting thrown over for Maggie Rizer. [WWD]
  • Georgia May Jagger, in her new denim ad: "Hudson jeans. Soft...and blue. And very tight." Descriptive! [TDB]
  • Richard Chai is doing a line with Keds. Chai's sneakers, which are canvas and leather in white, grey and black, have silver zippers between the rows of eyelets. They hit stores in January of next year, and pricing information isn't yet available. [WWD]
  • Someone painted an entire Spanish Colonial-style bungalow in Louis Vuitton's signature logo print. So long as Britney Spears doesn't use it as the set for her next video, we imagine these folks in Mexicali might be safe from LVMH's lawyers. [BoingBoing via hazmeelchingadofavor]
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<![CDATA[Women Play Mostly Supporting Role Within Male-Dominated Vampire "Trend"]]> Today's New York Times has a "Thursday Styles" section story about a "trend with teeth": Vampires.

Ruth La Ferla references True Blood and Let The Right One In and writes:

What began with the Twilight Saga, the luridly romantic young-adult series by Stephenie Meyer, followed by Twilight, the movie, has become a pandemic of unholy proportions.

For Spike's sake: Vampire lust did not "begin" with Twilight. While La Ferla acknowledges the 1983 film The Hunger, the Sookie Stackhouse books penned by Charlaine Harris, and upcoming "supernatural action film" Blood: The Last Vampire (which looks awesome) — her underlying question is: Why? Why the pop culture obsession with vampires? La Ferla gets this:

The vampire's attraction is "all about the titillation of imagining the monsters we could be if we just let ourselves go," suggested Rick Owens, a fashion bellwether whose goth-tinged collections sometimes evoke the undead. "We're all fascinated with corruption, the more glamorous the better" and, he added, with the idea of "devouring, consuming, possessing someone we desire."

But in a new interview with True Blood series creator Alan Ball, he says: "Vampires are sex. Vampires basically arose in our time as a metaphor for sex. I mean, vampires are sort of the ultimate Romantic rock star, bad boy or girl fantasy." And: "I can't really talk that much about Twilight because I haven't read any of the books and I didn't see the movie. I personally don't really understand why you would have vampires in a something that is basically about abstinence."

Okay, sure, vampires are about unleashing your inner monster, sex and desire. But most famous vampire stories involve bloodsucking males preying on females. In this chart illustrating the "basics" of being a vampire, there's Bill from True Blood; Edward from Twilight and Angel from Buffy. Bloodsucking is a boy's world. Maybe that's why that the epic clip of Buffy prevailing over Edward Cullen is such refreshing turn of events. Jonathan McIntosh, who created the clip, says:

More than just a showdown between The Slayer and the Sparkly Vampire, it's also a humorous visualization of the metaphorical battle between two opposing visions of gender roles in the 21ist century […] In the end the only reasonable response was to have Buffy stake Edward – not because she didn't find him sexy, not because he was too sensitive or too eager to share his feelings – but simply because he was possessive, manipulative, and stalkery.

Although there are many vampire books written by women, and a few fierce female vamps — Buffy's Drusilla, Underworld's Selene, Let The Right One In's Eli, Queen Of The Damned's Akasha. But none of these women have achieved the fame and notoriety male vampires enjoy. A woman's role in vampire mythology is to get bitten, become enthralled, or both; the undead dudes are the ones with all the power.

A Trend With Teeth [NY Times]
In Vampire World, The Rules Keep Changing [USA Today]
From Dusk Til Dawn: Talking With Alan Ball About "True Blood" Season Two [Televisionary]
What Would Buffy Do? Notes On Dusting Edward Cullen [Women In Media & News]

Earlier: Buffy Shuts Down Edward Cullen In The Best Clip Ever

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<![CDATA[Kanye Uses Naked Woman To Sell Luxury Louis Vuitton Sneakers]]>

  • What appears to be Kanye West's campaign for his Louis Vuitton sneakers has leaked. Amber Rose, the woman he squired around fashion week, is featured, along with a truly hideous crocodile bomber jacket. [Nah Right]
  • George F. Will: hates jeans, or as he likes to call them, "the demon denim." "Denim," he says, "is the carefully calculated costume of people eager to communicate indifference to appearances." Then the columnist writes that the only acceptable jeans are "authentic work clothes for horny-handed sons of toil and the soil." He he he he horny. [WaPo]
  • The New York Times is ending its weekly fashion spreads — which were always, to my eye, surprisingly good — its Sunday magazine. Ad pages are down 41% on last year, and the Times is going to concentrate its fashion coverage in the execrable T, as well as the Styles section. [WWD]
  • Heidi Klum confirmed the seventh season of Project Runway (applications are due April 24, guys!) will be filmed in New York, not L.A. [E! Online]
  • Prada is nearing the completion of some kind of an epic building in Seoul. Designed by BFF starchitect, Rem Koolhaas (who did this season's lookbook), and called the Transformer, the building's components will rotate and re-align to transform the structure completely. It'll be flexible enough to host film festivals and exhibits of all kinds. The building will be contained by a thin, elastic white membrane. [WWD]
  • At least Karl Lagerfeld is honest about modeling. "[I]n fact there is no advice, because all circumstances are very different. It depends on what you are ready to give, the kind of life you bring, what may be exciting or disappointing … You can't accuse anyone of not doing enough to help you, because, besides yourself, there's nothing anyone can do. You have to be given what's needed by nature, and what's needed is to bring something new. But it's the most … (hits hand on table) unjust … (hits hand on table) thing in the world." [Fashionologie]
  • Jewelry designer Anna Sheffield is the next in line for the Target: GO International diffusion line program. And Macy's will sell a cheaper capsule collection from Rachel Roy, under the label Rachel Rachel Roy, starting this August. [Fabsugar]
  • Vivienne Westwood is now making pillows. Naturally, they're awesome but perhaps a little extreme — which is Westwood's aesthetic to a T. [FWD]
  • Could Jennifer Connelly be making a return as the face of Balenciaga this fall? [The Cut]
  • Cynthia Rowley turned up on the cover of an auction catalog with her guitarist husband. They like to collect contemporary art to decorate their West Village townhome. [WWD]
  • Stefano Pilati, the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, now has a floral sleeve tattoo. [Purple Diary]
  • Coco Rocha says the weirdest thing about hosting that E! Canada documentary on New York Fashion Week was having to actually interview people. "For me to run up to people who have like, eight bodyguards was not my scene," said the model, who recently died her hair red at the request of Steven Meisel. "I don't like to get into people's personal space, I don't believe in it, so I was like, whoa!" [The Cut]
  • WWD has a fascinating look at the process of clothing restoration. The case study: the work of Madeleine Vionnet. [WWD]
  • There is now a thing called ModelFeed, which functions like a group blog, for models. So if you ever wanted to know how Myf Shepard feels about contemporary art, now's your time. [ModelFeed]
  • Do you want to watch Rick Owens — a designer who bears some resemblance to Professor Snape — grinning maniacally for Nick Knight while Richard Strauss' Salomé plays in the background? The answer is yes. (Moreover, Owens takes his shirt off suddenly, and lets his trademark black sweater blow in the studio fan. It's dramatic.) [ShowSTUDIO]
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<![CDATA[This Fall, Barbie Will Fight The Red Coats And The Apocalypse]]> Paris Fashion Week is underway, and the Frenchies, we fear, think the end is near. (Are things really that bad with Sarko et Bruni?) Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe and Viktor & Rolf all presented variations on a futuristic post-apocalyptic warrior: Owens riffed on his signature layering to create a battleground look, Yohji turned Revolutionary War soldiers into an army of darkness, Junya Watanabe matched architectural suiting with snug headpieces, and Viktor & Rolf paired luxury and surrealism to create a contrast between whimsy, luxury, and nihilism. Vivienne Westwood also rebelled, deconstructing garments to reveal skin despite layers, colorful and bright fabrics distracting from the ominous nature of the almost-monsters she sent down the runway. (Also, she had kids paint on the clothes and accessories. Which is pretty badass.) And then there was John Galliano for Dior: Galliano went in the opposite direction, deciding that when the going gets tough, the tough revert into real-life Barbie dolls (above left). You have to see it to believe it, really. Annotated galleries of selected looks from each designer, after the jump.

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