It's all about showmanship and 1 upping each other. Fally Ipupa is 1 of the biggest Congolese stars out, hence the video below. Bentley, fur coat, American pop-star, people went WILD.
How do I explain this, my people are flashy.
Even in the US, if you pull up to a Congolese party, everyone is dressed to the nines. It is part of the cultute. when my uncle who lived in Paris came to visit, the young guys in the neighborhood used to line up on the corner to see what he was wearing, when he left in the morning with my father. The man got kudos for never repeating an outfit.
In most instances, people usually borrow and exchange clothing. Yes, we are surrounded by war, chaos and utter poverty, but life goes on. Hell we've been in turmoil since the 1800s.
@Sarah Dove: I used to be a Dapper Dan Man, but it has been my experience that many "DDM" use foul language and often engage in fisticuffs in family establishments such as Woolworths. I do not wish to be associated with such non-bonafide men.
This reminds me incredibly of the gay dance halls in "Paris is Burning": notably, the use of designer clothes and looking good not only to promote your status within a minority and subjugated subculture, but to more importantly as a means to rise above the difficulties they've faced. Clothes and labels are so much more than "clothes" and "labels," especially to people who have limited means and a hard way of life.
Jenna, this may be my favorite piece yet. So fascinating, with so many layers and nuance. You manage to hit on so many aspects of the broader discussion that's provoked in these images in a relatively short article.
From the first few photos, my reaction was that this is all a bit "let them eat cake." And then I started to see parallels not with hip-hop culture, but with "pimp" culture. Millionaire rappers who have risen from poor neighborhoods to become wealthy and, in some cases, obsessed with displaying status symbols, are generally actually well-off people. Without knowing more about where the sapeurs get these expensive clothes, it feels more akin to flashy pimps with their chains and pimp cups, but who are likely not all that rich or able to leave their neighborhood.
@odinsraven: I have a problem with the pimp comparison because, even if it's not your intention, it links them to the exploitation of women in a way that is not at all evident in their self-presentation. The hip-hop comparison is also flawed because, unlike rappers, these guys are not wearing diamonds. Which I think is very striking from a political point of view. More than anything, I think these men are fascinating precisely because there's no obvious analogue in contemporary culture.
@ronniedobbs: I agree that the pimp comparison has some fundamental flaws. I think it was a stream of consciousness response on my part, where I immediately saw a flaw in the hip-hop comparison (or athlete comparison, or any number of people who make it out of a poor neighborhood and get caught up in a rich lifestyle involving status symbols). It was the remark about how many of the sapeurs who have immigrated to Paris live in the 18th arrondisement - this struck me in particular, that apart from the flashy clothes, nothing in the article indicates any actual wealth or rise in standard of living. That's the thread I was following in my analogy, and I certainly wasn't trying to make any kind of comparison regarding these men's professions or their relationships with power or women.
@odinsraven: I know -- I was using "you" in a more general sense, especially because that comparison came up elsewhere in the thread.
I think your point about these guys' lack of actual wealth is so interesting because, let's face it, Congo is a really wealthy country. It's mineral-rich, and is actually the world's number one provider of coltan, which keeps all of our cellphones doing all the fun stuff they do... so why AREN'T they seeing more wealth? In that way, I see these men as offering a (perhaps indirect) commentary on where they SHOULD be in relation to where they actually are. That's what gets me more worked up than some of the other stuff people are so upset about in this thread.
"Followers of SAPE wear $10,000 jackets and $500 shoes, but these mostly young Congolese men otherwise barely eke out a living in the rubble of Kinshasa and Brazzaville or the ghettos of Paris and Brussels, washing dishes or washing bodies, and sometimes selling their own."
This is so hot, and it's nice whenever subcultures in sub-Saharan African countries are highlighted, if only to counteract the impression that the whole continent is one big charity commercial.
It would be less bittersweet if they'd come about as a result of massive clothing donations form overseas, like maybe if someone had opened a shipping container from the 1970s only to find it full of amazing, immaculate retro wear. Also it's only half as cool as it could be with women dressing up. Maybe I'm jumping to conclusions, but something tells me they're too busy raising the kids, getting food and water and going to school.
Man, I wish they had Uniqlo on the West Coast. I was right up the street from the one in NYC and it was awesome. Now I have to get my friends in NYC to take pics of stuff and send 'em to me so I can send them money to pick up an item or two.
I just told my boyfriend that if the Max suit is under a grand, I'm buying it. He's usually the (much) more financially level-headed of the two of us, but he was like "I can understand that." Whoop!
11/18/09
11/18/09
Even in the US, if you pull up to a Congolese party, everyone is dressed to the nines. It is part of the cultute. when my uncle who lived in Paris came to visit, the young guys in the neighborhood used to line up on the corner to see what he was wearing, when he left in the morning with my father. The man got kudos for never repeating an outfit.
In most instances, people usually borrow and exchange clothing. Yes, we are surrounded by war, chaos and utter poverty, but life goes on. Hell we've been in turmoil since the 1800s.
11/18/09
And these gents have style. As a dandy (well, more of a fop), I approve.
11/19/09
11/19/09
11/21/09
#tips
11/21/09
11/18/09
11/18/09
11/18/09
From the first few photos, my reaction was that this is all a bit "let them eat cake." And then I started to see parallels not with hip-hop culture, but with "pimp" culture. Millionaire rappers who have risen from poor neighborhoods to become wealthy and, in some cases, obsessed with displaying status symbols, are generally actually well-off people. Without knowing more about where the sapeurs get these expensive clothes, it feels more akin to flashy pimps with their chains and pimp cups, but who are likely not all that rich or able to leave their neighborhood.
11/18/09
11/18/09
11/18/09
I think your point about these guys' lack of actual wealth is so interesting because, let's face it, Congo is a really wealthy country. It's mineral-rich, and is actually the world's number one provider of coltan, which keeps all of our cellphones doing all the fun stuff they do... so why AREN'T they seeing more wealth? In that way, I see these men as offering a (perhaps indirect) commentary on where they SHOULD be in relation to where they actually are. That's what gets me more worked up than some of the other stuff people are so upset about in this thread.
11/18/09
11/18/09
"Followers of SAPE wear $10,000 jackets and $500 shoes, but these mostly young Congolese men otherwise barely eke out a living in the rubble of Kinshasa and Brazzaville or the ghettos of Paris and Brussels, washing dishes or washing bodies, and sometimes selling their own."
(quote from colors mag here: [www.colorsmagazine.com])
11/18/09
11/18/09
It would be less bittersweet if they'd come about as a result of massive clothing donations form overseas, like maybe if someone had opened a shipping container from the 1970s only to find it full of amazing, immaculate retro wear. Also it's only half as cool as it could be with women dressing up. Maybe I'm jumping to conclusions, but something tells me they're too busy raising the kids, getting food and water and going to school.
11/18/09
09/25/09
What? Their stuff is awesome.
09/25/09
09/25/09
09/25/09
09/25/09
09/25/09
Thanks,
NC