Easter Parade pretty - as whimsical as that treacly Sophia Coppola Dior ad, even if I am mixing designers and references with reckless abandon.


This reimagined Career Gal ensemble would be perfect on Maggie Prescott.


Ike worked these groovy psychedelic prints in periodically. They were no defense against the indignity of the cardboard boater.


Deconstructed Degas - with the obligatory touch of bionic archer, of course.


"Sesame Street" meets "Mame" - how far wrong can you go?


I like the mix of old-Hollywood glam and 90's-inflected layered shirtwaist.


Elements of the collection had a Cecil Beaton quality - after all, people want glamah from Mizrahi!


Pure "Ascot Gavotte" - and pure pretty.

[Images via Getty]

Calling Peter Gabriel. That is all.


The nightgown is back. Can the slipdress be far behind?


This organic texturing is one of the more engaging elements of the collection.


We would've gotten the "Japanese" reference without the geta-like footwear.


There was a lot done with crinkling. Would Francisco be offended to know I was reminded of my mom's Eileen Fisher phase?


I'm going to go with, "yes."


Spring '94 was the collection that introduced Kate Moss. Back then this would have been layered with about 20 androgynous tees.


The slight refinements of cut elevate its simplicity. Well, almost.

[Images via Getty]

When you think Ralph Lauren, you think of classic American elegance, like this...


...or this sweet, simple tea dress.


Or even this 40's-inflected lamé.


Not so much Steinbeck.


Or 1920s schoolboy.


Or "King of New York."


Or even "liked-'Little House'-a-little-too-much 7th Grader."


I love how Janet showed up in classic RL, and was presented with this parade of overalls. That said, she can rock a newsboy cap.

[Images via Getty]

[New York, September 17. Image via Splash.]

These eensy-weensy, teeny-weeny triangle tops are something of a P-S signature. Those of us with breasts? Movin' right along.





The fellas did a lot with playing with sportswear ideas, evoking casual, sporty elements in a sharper context. In other words, enormous shirts that look like they've got sweatshirts tied around their wastes.





The rteurn of tie-dye: I guess now that Phish has reformed, this was inevitable.


I'm intensely concerned about how scuba-princess is going to translate to Forever21.





Leighton Meester: obviously the intended customer.


Well, this looks fun and relaxed.

[Images via Getty]

The theme seemed to be circus, with a nod to Mary Quant. I'm not sold on the tights, but the dress is cute!

A little window-pane pattern suit for grown-up schoolgirls.

Styled in to a riot of color, this vest and dress would look great farther away from each other, no? Also: How cute is Chanel Iman?

The collection veered into shine, which was maybe not the best direction.

But a plaid shrunken blazer paired with matching walking shorts? Could go punk or prep, and looks pulled-together and fun.

I'm digging the little vests, and the blouses, even if I wouldn't wear them.

I wouldn't wear this either, but it made me smile.

That punchy blue blazer could just as easily be paired with dark denim jeans; the dress has a nod to the psychadelic '60s without looking dirty messy hippie.

Anna Sui did a Gossip Girl collection for Target. Couldn't you see this on Blair Waldorf?

For some reason this makes me think, "Marcia Brady's big date."

And this goes with the Brady Bunch classic, "It's A Sunshine Day".

More adorable plaid suiting.

"Let's meet on the quad at 3pm and go get sodas, it'll be a gas."

A wee dress with a teeny tie and a bitty belt, because as a nation, we're scaling back, you know?

One thing this collection has is a sense of optimism: Although Anna Sui loves black and purple, she threw in a lot of other colors and played with patterns, making upbeat, fun clothes — and instructing the models to smile. The show feels light, happy, carefree.

Sui seems to find delight in girliness.

And she also proves that spring clothes don't have to be bright yellow and green and white: This purple coat is fabulous.

This right here — black and purple dress, verging on babydoll — is classic Sui. The sandals, on the other hand…

Not band geek, band chic.

LOL! How can she not grin? Her sweater has a freakin' cartoon lion on it.

I love all the '60s prints, and if I can't wear them, I want them as sheets.

This is Blair Waldorf's ass-kicking ensemble.

Nix the tie and Michelle Obama's all over this.

A wave from the lady who embodies "forever young."

[Images via Getty.]

We know lots of words, but sometimes only "beautiful" does the trick.


Oh. My. God. Does old-school lady get any jazzier?


There's something deliciously 50's working-girl about this canteloupe situation.


Oh, wait, Carine Roitfeld disagrees.


But, come on, Madame - this Degas-adorable frock must make you smile!


Or, what about this Spanish-widow-inflected midcentury day-dress?


And, yup, there's the dirndl! The hills are alive!


Maybe she's confused by this Lawrence of Arabia headdress?


And would I wear a bowler with a silk chiffon gown and a stole? Possibly not.


But Zac Posen, that stone-cold dandified fox, likes it.

[Images via Getty]

I worry about where crotches are going, what with dropped crotches and harem pants and so on. I really do. The color of her top is divine, though.

Wearable, if not entirely original.

Shiny! Short!

Short! Shiny!

The pattern and ties on these shorts? Actually pretty cool. And I liked the layered tops.

As long as this is a dress and not a jumper, it's gorgeous.

That model is the only one who can pull this off, or should try.

I don't know what is going on here, but I suspect that Taylor Momsen wants to order two.

Oh, hello.

As you can tell, this collection is all over the damn place.

And most of it doesn't look very high-end.

That said, this dress with a metallic warrior corset breastplate thingy is pretty hot.

More shiny. When it's not short, it's tight.

I do tend to like hot, bright, blues, pinks and purples. So the palette appeals to me.

Some pieces, like this blue jacket, seem fun and fresh.

Oh, hello.

Baby Phat swimwear: Not for the shy, or the non-thin.

Oh, hello.

Meh.

Well, the kids are cute, at least!

Check out the new baby!

[Images via Getty.]

She is that rare fashion creature — an unapologetically "commercial" designer who prefers trading in established shapes (crinolines, strong shoulders) and styles (sparkles, bright colors, tulle) to breaking new ground, but has earned industry respect (and continues to rack up editorial credits) for her fun looks, which have become self-styled classics.

Nobody cuts a party dress like Ms. Johnson.


Most impressively, the models all look like they're having the time of their lives. Probably because there was a live band playing Blondie covers, and plenty of champagne. Johnson did her signature cartwheels.


The makeup for the presentation was a very wearable kind of party-goth, and everyone had gigantic tulle bows in their hair.


Except for this male model, who got a pair of knickers for his 'do. Work it.


Like at Diane Von Furstenberg, the whole collection was accessorized with big neon bangles.


Betsey Johnson can even make red-and-white toile look cool.


I think everyone needs a tiny speck of green-and-yellow leopard print in their wardrobe.


A black-and-white Pierrot suit with a pink ruffle and a French maid get-up, I'm not so sure about.


I dig the blue nails.


The spectacular Plaza hotel served as the venue — a perfect match in over-the-top-ness for the collection itself. Let's hope the appropriately named Eric Sartori, Johnson's assistant, to whom she has said she intends to pass the reins, can keep the profusion of color and shapes coming strong.

So obviously he was doing something subversive or whatever with the juxtaposition of "ladylike" and "Cutco demo."


Sometimes he does basic, slightly adventurous "classic American sportswear" that has an obvious market...
Then sometimes, when looking at garments like this, I'm just left wondering what his customer base is.


Oh, wait, it's Cruella DeVille.


I mean, this is cute and crisp in a Linda Evangelista sort of way...


And I can imagine any number of questionably-attired socialites doing the garden party thing in this...


But the only man I've ever seen in anything remotely similar was Matthew Modine, on 6th Avenue. And he was riding a scooter, so.



Yes, everyone like Joan Cusack in Toys (or do they?) but bathing suits are generally not where you want to rock the paper doll thing.

[Images via Getty]

Fringe and patterns make for island-y vibes. For me, this doesn't say "spring" as much as it does "hot summer concert in the park." Which is not a bad thing!

Love, love, love seeing black models! The one sitting down is like, "Where is that cappuccino I ordered 10 minutes ago?" The graphic black and white dress in the back might be amazing, but it's hard to tell.

This reminds me so much of Anjelica Huston's character in The Life Aquatic WIth Steve Zissou: The elegant ex-pat island dweller with enormous statement jewelry. I long to be her.

Yes on the crocheted cropped jacket; no on the crotch of the pants on the left.

Hey look, it's Mary J. Blige! Catherine Malandrino, right, must have walked her through the show.

That berry-colored dress is ridiculously cute and made for dancing all night on the beach; the turquoise top in the back on the right is probably pretty great, too.

Although this is also very Anjelica Huston in Life Aquatic, it also reminded me of the maharajah in Indiana Jones And The Temple Of Doom.

I really do love that Malandrino's playing with proportion: The teeny jacket, with a jumpsuit that goes from being voluminous to skinny. But there's only one person this looks good on, and she is wearing it. Also: These three women would make a badass motorcycle gang.

Aloha, ladies! Gorgeous sea-colored dress, and cute shorts, too.

Another winner: Easy, relaxed, but still flattering and not at all messy. And if barefoot is in for spring, then I'm super stylish right now!

[Images via Getty.]

Even the runway-luxe necklace can't disguise the fact that this suit is First Lady-worthy.


Can you say "Lady in Red?" And yes, that song did come out in 1986.


Classic daytime tweeds for a proper matron, modernized - a little - with structured embellishment.


This trophy-wife confection makes even a probably-18-year-old model look jaded and worldly-wise.


Classically beautiful, and even if it could basically be from any year, one of my favorites.



The color renders this worthy of a John Hughes-scripted prom.


Speaking of John Hughes: if Andie Walsh had become a designer, this looks like what she'd have designed. Based on her prom dress.


Hamptons perfect: made to be worn with big shades, a cocktail, and plenty of entitlement.


Is this the least flattering dress in the world? Yes. Yes, it is.

[Images via Getty]

It might not do to make too much of the fact that the Bryant Park shenanigans take place in large tents, but between the vinyl and the stage lights, there is something of a circus about the proceedings. Fashion week throws up strange combinations of people and places: You're as likely to see André Leon Talley taking a breather outside the Salon as you are to spot a young drunk editor throwing champagne over herself in the early afternoon. For a brief moment on Saturday at Band of Outsiders, Grace Coddington, tiny Jason Schwartzman, and the Cobra Snake were all browsing the same collection. No doubt each would have chosen something very different to wear from it.

As the show schedule rolls on through the tents, crowds too disorderly to be called "lines" form, hemmed in by stanchion posts, first to check in with the designer's public relations team, and then to wait in a new crowd, divided by seating assignment. Perversely, having a ticket — even having a ticket and a confirmed RSVP — is no guarantee of entry: I've been turned away from various shows so far, mostly for reasons said to be related to capacity. (But also for some that are not: On Friday, after waiting in line to check in for half an hour, a flack looked at me square in the eye and said, "I know who you are, and you are not on the list." I haven't felt so thoroughly told off since I was 8 years old and left my bunk area a mess at brownie camp.)

But not having a ticket also isn't a bar to entry: There are so many computer issues and intelligence meltdowns behind the average seating list that plenty of shows will just let you into the standing room section — or at least let you into the standing room waiting pen — if you look and sound convinced of your right to be there. That much at least mirrors the fashion world in the broader sense: Success is a special mix of confidence, entitlement, superficial appearance, and access to specialized knowledge. (Of course, these days most everything anyone who wanted to go to fashion week would need to know is available online. Democracy in action.)

This is my first year attending fashion week as a reporter, not a model, and I guess I'm not sure I understand - after you wait, and wait (and wait) behind one of the many stanchions and the many webbing ropes, after being questioned by the occasional security guard and verified by the PRs - what the point of a fashion show is. The tents are a deeply unreal space, a stage-lit environment where it never seems to be day or night, and everyone mobs the open bar after the 10 a.m. show. It feels deadening somehow, and sameish, to watch 15 or 20 models parading 20 or 30 looks in an identical venue to indistinguishable thundering electronic music before a rotating configuration of the same front-row cast, a Real Housewife here, an actor there. Given the energy and the activity that I know exists backstage, it's odd to see fashion as this white-background poker-faced hurry-up-and-wait thing. I never knew the audience saw it all that way.

On Sunday afternoon, I went to a show by a designer who is young and — though Australian — very talented: Toni Maticevski. I went with my friend Sophie Ward, who still models occasionally, and who was supposed to sit in Maticevski's front row as his friend. But because, like 90% of fashion shows, this one was starting late, and because the radiant energy from behind the scenes seemed to have us locked in like a tractor beam, she and I ended up sneaking backstage.


People were running up and down the stairs, against the grain of the taped arrows. Models where everywhere, getting their hair and makeup done and checking their Blackberries. Stylists were rushing around with voluminous dresses, tugging girls from station to station. There was a large catering tray and a strange man in a green shirt guarding it. Several times someone in a headset grabbed at Sophie's or my elbow, trying to corral us into the lineup. There were backstage photographers snapping rapaciously. Maticevski was surrounded, finessing, rearranging, overseeing. The sense of shared purpose was palpable, and deeply touching. Sophie and I sat down in the midst of it all, and let the scene wash over us. (Also we were trying to find a way to get at that catering tray.)

We hardly noticed when the music began. Two more-or-less-ex-models, distracted by sandwiches and our former lives: the show had started! We had to race around the back stairs, and watch the runway from the nosebleed seats.

Only three days to go and it was still the best show I've been to so far.

Earlier: I Am The Anonymous Model

A lush mixture of heraldic and modern, sumptuous and restrained, the collection suggested a tongue-in-cheek decadence witty in its audacity.


The androgyny of the piece is reminiscent of the work of Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, but working in a playful, youthful palette uncharacteristic of that designer's work.


The designers combined the utilitarian with the classic, resulting in a thoroughly wearable aesthetic.


The silhouette was a natural evolution of spring's shapes, with a pointed reference to the almost-geometric vagaries of the current marketplace.


Whimsy and a particularly American brand of quietude were at work in the collection's best moments.


If the collection had a weakness, it was a tendency to revel in its own wit - but for the most part the true beauty of line allowed the garments to wrest emotion from what might have been merely an aridly intellectual sarorial parlor game.

[Images via AP]

This ethereal Undine in her jeweled bib gives a good sense of the spirit of the collection.


This ethereal dogwood print was all over the collection, a soft nod to the aggressive florals trend.


The fairy rebel!


This Little Black Riding Hood looks determined to make it to Grandma's. Grandma wears vintage Schiaparelli.


This model seems to be in a perpetual state of stupefaction, but I'd be shocked too if I found myself in a bejeweled Fred Flintstone costume.


Odille lovely, for the evil twin princess with impeccable chic.


Who would think "romper and bib" could look so completely adult and so totally elegant?


Even the oversized menswear trend goes gauzy and ethereal!


Steely determination and feathers: the swan princess's business attire.

[Images via Getty]

[New York, September 14. Image via Getty]

NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 14: A model prepares backstage at Abbey Dawn by Avril Lavigne showcasing its fall/holiday 2009 collection, available exclusively at Kohl's, at 'STYLE360 at Metropolitan Pavilion North' on September 14, 2009 in New York City. (Photo by Jeff Gentner/Getty Images)

I guess, speaking of clichés, it's become one to note what time Jacobs' shows start, since the debacle of two years ago. This show kicked off at a couple minutes past 8, even though guest of honor Lady Gaga hadn't graced the front row with her presence. (She was let in, late.)


As you can see, ruffles were a theme of the collection. But they weren't treated as pretty-pretty trim, but rather as something more sculptural. There were thickly ruffled rompers and mini-dresses, and ruffles standing stiffly at the hems of skirts. Ruffles took on dimension. This pantsuit wears its ruffles like Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons.


Many of the looks were worn with organza pants the likes we haven't seen since I Dream Of Jeannie was on the air. We sense a coming trend, for better or for worse.


However, that's all part of the larger theme of lingerie, and layering — what goes underneath and what goes on top — which Jacobs loves to toy with.


It was also lovely to see his old staple, the long, full prairie skirt, done with a sharply tailored military jacket.


And I cannot wait to wear a (slightly longer) version of this ensemble, come spring.


This one, not so much. But I love the torsolette.


Because this is Marc Jacobs, of course there would be plaid. Only this time, it's studded with pearls.


This handkerchief-hem dress actually has pearls at the joins between the points on the bodice. Others have already pointed out that the reference is to legendary 1970s designer Zandra Rhodes.


And don't you just love the pearls at the collar points?


Ruffles also turned up on a number of lovely longer dresses.


Like this one, modeled by Jamie Bochert.


One unflattering jumpsuit got the same treatment.


And in any show, there's always that one look that makes you recoil. This was the one point where Jacobs' aesthetic tended towards the girlish, the unfinished.


But sticking to the tailoring, to the inspiration of Kawakubo and Kabuki theater, Jacobs looked right on the money.


And certainly never less so than with this ethereal confection.

Love the vivid hue on this pseudo-'80s number, which just seems really surprisingly wearable.

A hip coat to turn an overworked office drone into a city-chic gal about town.

Animal print doesn't seem like it goes with the rest of the collection at first, but the truth is, it's bold without being over the top. Work-appropriate stuff for real women is what Tracy Reese does. So this fits.

Cropped jacket + cropped pants = spring freshness.

This bubbly pattern is made of win.

The orange pedal pushers are just plain cute.

Sunny yellow, in an easy, summery dress.

More intense color, which just feels really optimistic. Everything is gonna be okay!

Not sure about these pieces being styled together, but the top with white trousers or the skirt with a white tank would be spot on.

Reese can do a strong animal print dress, and a whimsical bubble-print dress, and then also a dreamy, soft, light-as-a-feather sheath like this one, in the palest hue.

I can't explain what's going on here, I just know that I like it.

More sweetness and light.

Swingy polka dots, but done in a really different and modern way. Love it!

Steely gray with a structured bodice won't work on all bodies, but it's certainly sophisticated, and even better: Pretty.

Keep the floral frock; lose the gift wrap.

Loving the way this divine dress is constructed: Shows off the collarbones, cinches the waist, has pockets! Two, please.

The lady takes a bow.

[Images via Getty.]

This power-woman suit is so Jeanne Triplehorn in Basic Instinct! It just cries out for a dollop of mousse!


Lots of pretty florals at work here; whether this suit would work for actual swimming is an open question.


DK's really going back to her roots!


Floral dresses: a 90s staple suitable for everything from Dar Williams shows to midnight showings of Reality Bites.


In my school, a snap bracelet or six would have been the necessary accoutrement.


I don't know in what office one can wear a shorts suit...maybe the realtors who handle Melrose Place?


This print is giving me some serious Limited Too flashbacks.


Grunge colors and power styling: love it.

[Images via Getty]

Many of the clothes, in fact, looked as though they were constructed out of stapled-together doilies, with a load of rick-rack and reams of 70s-lampshade bobbled fringe for added oomph.

There were even doily coats — with feather trims — to match the doily dresses.

And outrageous his 'n' hers ensembles, for the couple with what might kindly be called "confidence."

And, for those who feel that women get to keep the fun of all-lace ensembles too much to themselves, Custo Barcelona offers this powder-blue patched lace two-button suit.

The collection as a whole looked very much like things your palm-reading aunt might make out of her curtains. The trailing hem of this asymmetrical offering even cause Alice Gibb to stumble slightly during her last turn on the runway.

OK, things your palm-reading aunt might make out of her curtains, plus a cringe-worthy quantity of trims.

There were even dresses made, mummy-style, entirely from trims. Versatile!

Craft project gone wrong.

This is like a Prada warrior dress from fall 2009, sissified and dolled up.

And for those men who desire shiny suits in a microchip print, Custo's got you covered.

Doilies, feathers, rick-rack, and fringe, oh my: it's a wonder Rose Cordero could keep a straight face on the catwalk.