<![CDATA[Jezebel: milan]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: milan]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/milan http://jezebel.com/tag/milan <![CDATA[At A Snail's Pace]]>

[Milan, November 19. Image via Getty.]

A woman walks past two-meters high fuchsia snails in Milan's city center made by The Cracking Art Group consisting of Renzo Nucara, Marco Veronese, Alex Angi, Carlo Rizetti, Kicco and William Sweetlove on November 19, 2009. The recycled plastic snails are displayed all over Milan to announce the international Exposition of 2015. AFP PHOTO / DAMIEN MEYER (Photo credit should read DAMIEN MEYER/AFP/Getty Images)
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<![CDATA[Will Milan Fashion Week Be Colorless -- Again?]]> Last July, the "all black" issue of Italian Vogue hit newsstands, but as Milan Fashion Week kicks off this week, it's a "whiteout," says Guy Trebay of The New York Times.

We noted that there were barely any black models on the runways in Milan last year. This year, writes Trebay:

While Giorgio Armani notably cast some black models for his Emporio Armani show, as did Donatella Versace for hers, there was not a single black (or Asian or Latino) face to be seen on the runways at Jil Sander, Missoni, Burberry, Trussardi, Bottega Veneta, Gianfranco Ferre, Roberto Cavalli or Prada.

(Armani and Versace had a few.)

The crazy thing is that there's a tabloid magazine, Urban, that's being given away at the men's shows this week, and the cover line is "Black Fever." The mag's editors claim that "From politics to fashion, photography to art," black is the color. And they don't mean hue — they mean black people. Except, of course, on the runways.

All of the models were white at the Gucci show, but Frida Giannini, Gucci's head designer, said: "I think it would be great if there was an industry initiative on this issue, because I am always looking for black models, or even Chinese or whatever, for the shows. I'm after a specific kind of look, and I request the agencies — I asked last season — to send me someone interesting. But they never send me anyone very new." And so begins the blame game: Designers and editors blame casting directors and model agencies; model agencies blame designers and editors. In fact, Trebay contacts NYC modeling agency owner George Brown, who flew several of his black models to Milan. Brown says: "They had some amazing options, options I’d never seen before on black guys," meaning some big designers put the models on hold. But: "The options fell off and we found the same line-up of white guys doing all the major shows."

Of course, these are the men's shows, and not the more consequential women's wear, but we'll see what happens: Can Italian designers really look through the "all black" issue and not want to hire any of those ladies?

In Milan, Models Still Come in Only One Color [NY Times]

Earlier: On The Runways Of Milan, Color Just Wasn't Considered Chic
Italian Vogue's "All Black" Issue: A Guided Tour
The "All Black" Issue Of Italian Vogue Is Officially A "Success"
The "All Black" Issue Of Italian Vogue: Both A Success And A Failure
Is Prada To Blame For the Lack Of Black Models?

[Image via New York Times.]

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<![CDATA[At Fashion Week In Milan, Prada Was A Real Problem]]> New York Fashion Week is over, but Fashion Week in Milan has just gotten underway. Yesterday, the biggest of the biggies, Prada, showed on a runway painted with fish. Those little suckers must have been slippery — or perhaps the unwieldy, chunky, wooden platform shoes were a poor choice? — because several models tumbled. And, horrors: Anna Wintour was there to witness the debacle. The New York Times has video of the end of the show — one model's ankles wobble so much, so hard, she gives up, turns around and heads backstage instead of doing the final walk. Additionally, one model Miuccia Prada sent down the runway in a cropped burgundy sweater was so thin that her ribcage is all you really notice. It's as though her bones are on display. As if all this were not bad enough: The clothes sucked.


Nothing seemed to fit or flatter or to be designed with a woman's figure in mind. Everything seemed to be put together as though the items of clothing had been hanging on clotheslines and the model had just run through, with pieces falling where they may… Except without any of the fun and frivolity that description invokes. The garments were shapeless, uninspired, and in some cases, baffling. This is not the wardrobe a working woman with money dreams of. And though, in the past, Prada's been known for its accessories, since the shoes proved perilous for professional models, mere mortals had best steer clear. Judge for yourself: A gallery begins below.

Plus: Here is a short clip of the runway show, in which you can see models falling:

Spring 2009 Prada, Prada: Time to Reboot? Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Jil Sander Clears The Runway [NY Times]
Prada Girls Hit The Floor [Made In Brazil]

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<![CDATA[Jennifer Lopez Wears Flats… In Italy]]>

[Milan, September 23. Image via INFDaily.]

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<![CDATA[On The Runways Of Milan, Color Just Wasn't Considered Chic]]> We've been continuing to count models of color as the fall 2008 designer collections are shown around the globe, and although things were not good in New York and London, Milan was the worst so far. The runways were overwhelmingly white. (That's the Gucci lineup, at left.) Our own Maria-Mercedes Lara ran the numbers: Of thirty-seven runway shows, there 1,084 opportunities to send out a model. Asian models walked 28 times, Latina models walked 17 times, and black models walked 14 times. Keep in mind we're counting instances of models on a runway and not the models themselves; Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman, for example, were in more than one show. What's really interesting is how many shows by big-name Italian designers had absolutely zero diversity. (Keep that in mind the next time you consider buying a Fendi purse or anything by Jil Sander!) Some examples, and percentage breakdowns, after the jump.



Shows featuring black models included MaxMara, Prada (?!?!) and Bottega Veneta. Of the 1,084 instances of a model on the runway, a model of color was used 59 times. That's a mere 5%.
modelsofcolormilan022508.jpg

The "diversity" was broken down thusly: A black model was used 14 times, an Asian 28 times, and a Latina 17 times. We included Bruna Tenorio because she is of indigenous Brazilian descent, but also noted when Spanish models Barbara Garcia or Sheila Marquez were used, as they offer an alternative to the pale blond Eastern European image that so dominates the runways.

MOCmilanbreakdown022508.jpgAs seen here, the instances of an Asian model on the Milan runways are almost double the instances of a black model. Since Milan is considered the capital of fashion, can one assume it is not fashionable to be black?

blackmodelsinmilan022508.jpgA black model was sent out fourteen times out of 1,084 looks during Milan fashion week. That is 1%.

Here are how some of the top shows panned out:

D&G
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 2 (Hye Park, Dual Kim)
Latina Models: 0 (Although Spanish model Shelia Marquez and Brazilian bombshell Isabeli Fontana did walk)
White Models: 43
Total Models: 45

Emilio Pucci
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 25

Etro
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio, of indigenous Brazilian decent. Shelia Marquez also walked)
White Models: 45
Total Models: 47

Fendi
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 24
Total Models: 24

Gianfranco Ferre
Black Models: 1 (Kinee Diouf)
Asian Models: 1 (unidentified)
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio)
White Models: 35
Total Models: 38

Gucci
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0 (Shelia Marquez walked)
White Models: 25
Total Models: 25

Jill Sander
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 32
Total Models: 32

Giorgio Armani
Black Models: 1 (Yordanos Teschager)
Asian Models: 3 (unidentified, Eugenia Mandzhieva, Han Jin)
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio; though Barbara Garcia and Penelope also walked)
White Models: 37
Total Models: 43

Earlier:
Miuccia Prada Puts End To Fashion Week Apartheid!
Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash
Designer: Fashion Runways "Are Full Of White Dogs"
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways
Is Prada To Blame For the Lack Of Black Models?

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<![CDATA[New York? Yawn. Milan? As if. You see,...]]> New York? Yawn. Milan? As if. You see, the trendsetters, as reported by trendsetter bible Newsweek are looking beyond the four fashion capitals for new trends to Shanghai, Istanbul, Antwerp and Chicago. Ask anyone who thinks he's cooler than the people who think they're cooler than everyone: London is dead and Biloxi is the next Sixth Borough. [Newsweek]

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