<![CDATA[Jezebel: isabella blow]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: isabella blow]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/isabellablow http://jezebel.com/tag/isabellablow <![CDATA[Sophie Dahl Gets A Cooking Show; Tilda Swinton To Be Face of Pringle]]>

  • Model turned cookbook author Sophie Dahl is getting her own cooking show on BBC 2. Dahl says her show will cover on the "emotional" side of food. "It's cooking with an anecdotal thread, irreverent, unpredictable and not without flaw." [Sun]
  • Tilda Swinton will be the Spring 2010 face of Pringle of Scotland. Ryan McGinley, who's also behind the current Levi's 501s campaign, will shoot the ads, and a short film featuring the actress. [WWD]
  • Target reps denied that Anna Sui's upcoming collection for the retailer was in trouble for its Gossip Girl theme. (Rumors had circulated earlier this week that Sui's clothes were set to be worn by extras in a scene for an upcoming episode, but that executives at the chain were made uncomfortable by the teen soap's debauchery.) The Sui collection hits stores on September 14. [Stylelist]
  • And nor, apparently, is it true that Kate Moss is going to be a part of Sir Philip Green and Simon Cowell's new global entertainment company. [WWD]
  • Forever 21 is expanding into homewares and beauty. [WWD]
  • Three armed men robbed a Cartier store in Cannes and got away — so far — with $20.9 million worth of jewels. [WWD]
  • Two biographies of the late editor/muse Isabella Blow, who committed suicide in 2007 after failing several earlier attempts, are slated for release next year. Detmar Blow, her widower, is co-writing one with Tom Sykes, brother of the mostly intolerable Vogue scribe Plum. Fashion writer Lauren Goldstein Crowe is working on another. [NYObs]
  • Frederic Bourke, the co-founder of Dooney & Bourke, remains the company chairman even after his conviction on conspiracy charges for his role in an investment group that bribed Azerbaijani officials with hundreds of millions of dollars. The investment group was seeking preferential consideration for its bid for the Azeri state-owned oil company, and although he beat money-laundering charges, Bourke now faces up to 10 years in prison and a $500,000 fine. "This is indeed an unfortunate situation," said Dooney & Bourke's lawyer, Thomas McAndrew. "It's tragic for Mr. Bourke. Our thoughts and prayers go out to his family." [WWD]
  • Everyone loves falling models. You've probably seen most of these — but there is one nasty spill from a Gharani Strok show we hadn't witnessed before. [Modelinia]
  • The Project Runway model spin-off show that the producers have been threatening for ages now is a reality. Called Models of the Runway, the hour-long reality show will air after every episode of Project Runway's sixth season. [SassyBella]
  • Amber Rose, who's now with Ford's celebrity division, has two Polaroids on Confessions Of A Casting Director. No word yet on the kinds of bookings she's attracting. [COACD]
  • Karlie Kloss, on bagging the campaign for Marc Jacobs' fragrance Lola: "I didn't believe it, to be honest. I was shocked. I was like, 'No, you're kidding me. Me? Marc Jacobs knows my name?!' I was convinced that they accidentally drew my name out of hat or something." [W]
  • Doutzen Kroes likes to read the New York Times. And Dutch papers: "I always try to keep up with what's going on in my own country too," said the model. "You have to!" [StyleFile]
  • Times Critical Shopper Cintra Wilson, on Marni: "What I like best about Marni is that it gives a fashionable girl a creative direction if men finally dismay her past the point of no return. It provides a high-fashion shelter for those too badly scorched and shell-shocked by the battle of the sexes to return to the field. When you've really had it up to your push-up bra with the unfair sex, there may come a day when you stop waxing your legs and start hand-painting your car, brewing your own tattoo inks and converting your dining room into an abandoned-pet shelter — and Marni will be there for you." [NYTimes]
  • Guiseppe Zanotti might be entering the mens footwear market. [WWD]
  • Of course Alberta Ferretti has a sickeningly beautiful Italian country home. [FWD]
  • Bebe is phasing out all Bebe Sport merchandise and stores. The replacement brand, targeting "value-oriented consumer spending," will be called PH8. [WWD]
  • UK retail behemoth Asda's George line is offering deals on school uniforms that start at just £4.50. (Competitor Tesco's uniforms start at £3.75.) Asda's come with a money back guarantee against holes, rips, or untreatable stains — that occur within the first 100 days of purchase. Fast fashion really is a race to the bottom. [ToL]
  • Supposedly, Jon Gosselin and Hailey Glassman's children's clothing line for Ed Hardy is back on. Christian Audigier, who earlier denied the project, told E! that it "should be" happening. [E!]
  • Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler even took on the task of finding advertisers when they agreed to curate an issue of the Belgian title A Magazine. "They don't really have a staff when they hand you over the magazine," said Hernandez, "They're just like, ‘Here you go, now do it!'" At the launch party, cover star Chloë Sevigny turned up in a black leather Proenza Schouler jumpsuit. "I feel a bit like a super-slut superhero," she said. [NYObs]
  • Simon Doonan: "I think the future of fashion lies in the hands of the consumer. All the press, art direction, hype and red-carpet celebs do not amount to anything at the end of the day if the customer is not on board. When Anna Wintour announced "Fashion's Night Out," I let out a loud cheer. Ms. Wintour is smart enough to understand it's time to swing the spotlight away from the front-row celebs and back into the fitting room. The customer is king…or queen." In the same interview, the Barney's creative director called not having a C.E.O. " a colossal drag." [WWD]
  • An auction for bankrupt company Eddie Bauer's assets is taking place this Thursday, and VF Corp has announced its intention to bid. VF owns outdoorsy brands like The North Face, Eastpak, JanSport, and Eagle Creek. The successful bidder is expected to keep the 89-year-old retailer Eddie Bauer in operation. [WWD]
  • Levi's lost money during its second quarter because of 3% drop in sales — but it still intends to keep opening new stores. [WSJ]
  • In fact, everyone's opening boutiques like it's going out of style. Miu Miu just cut the ribbons on its first footholds in China and Turkey. [WWD]
  • And Versace just opened its largest Middle Eastern store, a 6,480-sq. ft. shop in a Dubai mall. [WWD]
  • Adjusted for exchange rate fluctuation, Burberry revenues sank 4% on last year during the second quarter. The company has already cut about 15% of its workforce. [Reuters]
  • H&M;s June same-store sales fell a larger-than-expected 5%. [WWD]
  • Wholesale prices on U.S.-made apparel fell 0.2% from May to June, but this June's prices were still 1.3% higher on last year's. [WWD]
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<![CDATA[Do You Have To Be Thin To Work In Fashion? Stylista Seems To Think So]]> A promo for Stylista, the reality show in which contestants compete to become Elle fashion editor Anne Slowey's new assistant, has hit the internet, and we're not going to lie: it looks bitchily delightful. What's troubling, however, is the treatment of the one plus-sized contestant, Danielle (pictured). The promo announces, "Fashion isn't about playing nice, it's war," before launching into footage of a series of fights between contestants. One snotty looking girl says, "If you're going to work in this industry, then you have to change your body for it," after which the producers show a few shots of Danielle looking at herself in a mirror, perturbed. Then Danielle says, "Believe me I want to look different. There are things about me I want to change."

If this trailer indicative of the entirety of Stylista, than the show's message is clear: in order to work behind the scenes of the fashion industry, you need to fit the limited vision of its glossy exterior.

The saddest part is that some of the most revered arbiters of fashion, the late, great Isabella Blow and the still fantastic Suzy Menkes are far from the fashion world "ideal," and obviously, the runway world would be much bleaker without their contributions. Looks like poor Danielle will be put on the Anne Slowey diet or given her marching papers.

Sneak Peek: Stylista Looks Sinfully Good [E! Online]
The Fashion Week Food Diary: Anne Slowey [NY Mag]

Earlier: The Last Days Of Mademoiselle: Cocaine, Cigarettes & Calorie Counts

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<![CDATA[ The coroner has spoken: Fashion stylist...]]> The coroner has spoken: Fashion stylist / Anna Wintour protégé / Alexander McQueen muse Isabella Blow's death this past May was, as suspected a suicide. Blow ingested 20 times the lethal dose of weedkiller, hoping to end her own life after having been diagnosed with ovarian cancer. RIP, Izzie. [Guardian]

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<![CDATA[McQueen, Chloe, Galliano, Nina Ricci: The Critics Speak]]>

Worried that Alexander McQueen's show, a tribute to his friend and champion, Isabella Blow, was going to be bathed in bathos? Well it turns out that McQueen, who showed in Paris over the weekend, had the collection of the season, or so sayeth the critics. Those same critics were less kind to Nina Ricci and Chloe - except for Suzy Menkes, who seems to love everyone except sworn enemy Marc Jacobs. Below, the major fashion critics take on McQueen, Ricci, Chloe and John Galliano.

McQueen:
"McQueen seemed to almost dare anyone to match him for know-how and imagination" "command performance" "you could [not] take your eyes off the clothes" "alluringly severe dresses" "he pushed his modern identity and cutting out ahead of those forms, lightening them, softening them. It made for thrilling fashion" —Cathy Horyn, The New York Times

"[Isabella] Blow is now with the angels" "emotional sensitivity of the show brought some beautiful homages" "unique pieces" McQueen's harsh attitude to women has not changed. Models struggled down the runway on teetering platforms. It is an inevitable part of his oeuvre that a woman will appear caged - even if the dress underneath is divine" —Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"[A] collection of outrageous beauty" "all a vivid reminder of Blow's eccentric, stylish wardrobe." —Hilary Alexander, The Telegraph

"McQueen mustered the clarity to dispense with smoke and mirrors and show his capabilities in cut, drape, and feathered flourish to an audience near enough to inspect every detail" "his romantic fairy-goddess chiffons put him back in the game of current trend" "McQueen honored his mentor by striving to bring out the best in himself" - Sarah Mower, Style.com


ninaricci.pngNina Ricci:
"[A] listless collection that didn't suggest a clear plan" "he achieved... wreckage" "dirty colors" "jackets that looked lifted from a mud room" "stringy hair dangling with feathers" "[b]ut other designers have done the same" "isn't very far from what a cool girl is wearing now" —Cathy Horyn, The New York Times

"Nina Ricci has never been so beautifully realized" "a perfume of a collection that hit a modern spot between romantic and sugary" "combining a youthful stride" —Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"[A] particularly poetic state of dishevelment" "smudged by the murky first light of a city day" "a reassertion of his Belgian identity" "deciding to take the path of underground edginess rather than Parisian chic" "what he's doing for day is the thing to watch" - Sarah Mower, Style.com


john-galliano.pngJohn Galliano:
"Mr. Galliano's style is romantic and narrative, typically with an impoverished muse at the center" "for once the models looked happy in their outfits and nobody complained that they were too thin" "looked fresh" "light and friendly" —Cathy Horyn, The New York Times

"Everything in John Galliano's garden was lovely" "However much the designer plants new ideas and changes the landscape (this time it was a carousel and fairground) the effect is always much the same" "this was just Galliano light" "sweet but never cloying" —Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"Here all was softness, frills, retro bias-cuts and gentle pastels, with the emphasis on roses; printed on chiffon, appliquéd in silk and half-hidden within the folds of a ruffled peplum." —Hilary Alexander, The Telegraph

"[A] gamely dizzy performance of typical Galliano-esque high jinks" "Galliano is motoring on reinterpretations of his classics" "it happens that this is a season in which that looks right" "the narrative wasn't a groundbreaker, merely a device for trotting out Galliano's standard pretty, printed, flouncy dresses" "Galliano is still in the game" —Sarah Mower, Style.com


chloe.pngChloe:
"But could Mr. Andersson have starved his hungry audience more? The shapes in the collection were so undefined, so indistinct that you had the feeling the same dress was going by again and again" —Cathy Horyn, The New York Times

"It seemed smart to take Chloé back to its roots - while still pushing forward. It has most recently been pitched as a brand for women who want to stay forever innocent on the cusp of maidenhood and maturity" "...this season proved that [designer Paulo Andersson] is not trapped in that vision." —Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"[R]etro-cuteness cauterized by an intrinsic graphic modernity" "something fresh" "a few rare thoughts about how to make transparency passable on a daily basis" "there was a lot of repetition" "reverted, in a contemporary way, to the old-time Chloé of the early seventies, when Karl Lagerfeld [designed it]" - Sarah Mower, Style.com

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<![CDATA[Anna Wintour: The Only One Wearing White At Isabella Blow's Memorial]]>

[London, England; Sept. 18. Image via FilmMagic.]

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<![CDATA[Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld Is Not At All Pompous]]>

  • Karl Lagerfeld has commissioned 15 contemporary artists to create works inspired by his iconic quilted Chanel bag for a two-year touring exhibit. Kind of interesting how iconic handbags are like the Virgin Mary of now. Maybe in twenty years people will be seeing Hermes Birkin bags in their grilled cheese sandwiches and selling them on eBay. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • The dress will remain the dominant fashion trend through Spring 2008, according to the owner of luxury retailer Louis Boston, who makes some weird reference to American global hegemony. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Dooney & Bourke releases a line of bags named for Emma Roberts (Julia's niece and current star of "Nancy Drew"), with prices ranging from $210 to $235. Remember how when you were reading Nancy Drew, you thought $215 was like, enough to buy a house? Ah, kids today! [WWD, 1st item]
  • It's a boy for supermodel Eva Herzigova and her Italian businessman common law husband. Remember how she did all those Wonderbra ads, haha? Lactation jokes never get old! [Vogue UK]
  • Fashion muse Isabella Blow's widower Detmar hopes to create a museum to house his late wife's extensive clothing collection, is "hoping all the people she helped in her life will cough up some money to get this up and running." Ooh, subtle! [Vogue UK]
  • Why should European luxury brands expand in China and India when there are still soooo many [brace yourselves! Fave word alert!] aspirational middle Americans stuck with Coach? [Fashion Inc.]
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<![CDATA[The Limited And Express Take A Break]]>

  • In a business move effecting tween girls everywhere, Limited Brands (parent company of The Limited, Victoria's Secret, and Bath & Bodyworks) has sold a 67% stake of the Express brand to a private equity firm. Meaning: Middle school girls can still buy their stretch capris at both The Limited and Express, but now they're just owned by different people. [WWD]
  • Ralph Lauren (nee Lipschitz!) gives a backhanded compliment to Russian people at the launch of his first flagship store in Moscow: "I didn't think they would get it...[but] I think they get it now. Russian people have a history of a lot of elegance and a lot of class." [WWD]
  • British fashion icon Isabella Blow was laid to rest — in her favorite Philip Treacy headpiece, no less — at the very church in Gloucestershire, England at which she was married. [WWD, 1st item]
  • Karl Lagerfeld loves the smell of global warming in the morning: His resort collection will be shown on Friday in Santa Monica with his models joining the mile-high club and using the aisle of an airplane in lieu of a catwalk. [The Guradian]
  • The UK's Fashion Fringe competition has taped former Gucci-boy Tom Ford and Burberry's Christopher Bailey — as its lead judges. Cute, but this would be much, much cooler if Tim Gunn and Nina Garcia showed up. [Vogue UK]
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<![CDATA[Details Surrounding Death Of Isabella Blow As Strange As Her Style]]>

  • English stylist, one-time Anna Wintour assistant, and England's Tatler and the Sunday Times' fashion director Isabella Blow passed away yesterday at the age of 48. Recently diagnosed with ovarian cancer, Blow's husband reports that she died in her sleep though some are calling the death a suicide. [Page Six]
  • Vogue. Costume Institute Gala. Insanity. [Vogue UK]
  • Most awkward/awesome photo shoot ever? Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie to appear in the forthcoming June Harper's Bazaar in a "Partners in Crime" layout depicting them stealing jewelry and thrown in jail. [WWD, 1st item]
  • Hillary Clinton has raised more money from the fashion industry than any other presidential candidate. [WWD]
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