Jezebel 
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New York, 2:31 PM
Tue Nov 10
73 posts in the last 24 hours
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09/15/09
"Obviously, an aesthetic of poverty is quite different from looking poor because you are poor."
09/15/09
09/16/09
Honestly, if the kids are consuming less and making it cool, it's a fine thing(not the same as buying homeless chic high fashion for $$$$)
09/14/09
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09/14/09
"When I am shooting on the street older women and larger size women often say "no" to my request to shoot them. Actually, much more than any other category of people I shoot. I think they have a real suspicion about how the image will be used. I also think there continues to be a growing disconnect between the fashion community and "average" women in general
However, do you think that this economic crisis has forced the fashion community to open it's eyes a little bit to what the customers want?"
[thesartorialist.blogspot.com]
09/14/09
09/14/09
09/14/09
"Lets not sully fashion with something a hobo wears!" would be kind of worse.
I don't think there's an issue with being inspired by homeless people, even if it's in a shallow (and obvious) way.
Would we be offended if people started painting homeless people?
09/14/09
I'll lose the sensitive attitude when they put their money where their mouths are: What percentage of profits will go to a homeless shelter, e.g.?
09/14/09
09/14/09
09/14/09
In any case, it seems to be less about profit and more about inspiration. So, the question is, where is the line drawn when it comes to art and inspiration?
09/14/09
You wouldn't be offended if they "paid" to use the homeless people? Why does money ease your discomfort?
09/14/09
When I see homeless people, I see people who need help, and in this world money can help. Being amazed that they keep their 'shit in plastic bags' is unacceptable to me. Money does not ease *my* discomfort with this, but it might ease *theirs*.
09/14/09
09/14/09
Gotcha.
09/14/09
This is not as if they have used A homeless man or woman with a specific sense of style as a muse (unlike Scott Schulman did, in a very lovely and respectful way, IMO). It is not like these designers are designing clothing that a homeless person could actually utilize (like a jacket that can also tranform into a tent for portable shelter), nor are they funding homeless shelters with the proceeds from their lines. Instead, they are sitting in their posh design studios, sketching up (I doubt Wasson can even draft or sew her own patterns) designs that they see as being ironic and 'forward' for an elite few who have likely never come close to feeling the sting of poverty.
There is nothing creative or profound in "designing" such a line. To me, it's mockery of fashion as an artform as well as the exploitation of a very unfortunate and vulnerable population of our society.
09/14/09
When did I run over your dog? nice way to carry on dialog. If you really take an anti-homeless vibe from my comments, then let me assure you that is unintended. However, I get the direct sneer in your snide reply, and no problem for me to ignore that too.
09/14/09
09/14/09
The money would be a modeling fee.
09/14/09
Should "urban" fashion be barred from runways unless those designers are donating to inner city causes? Should fashion only look really luxe? If that were to happen we'd STILL accuse the designer of being tone deaf.
Not to mention, it's pretty ridiculous to think all fashion designers are "haves". Or even most people working in fashion. The big names are the only ones with the big salaries.
09/14/09
09/14/09
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09/14/09
Note to self: this is a rude one. moving on.
09/14/09
A person who inspires someone is not a model, or a consultant, they are simply an inspiration. I think the only reason you're talking about money is because we're talking about homeless people, which is why I asked you if you felt they were being objectified and therefore should be paid.
If you had said yes, I could respect that view, but the argument you're making is falling a bit flat.
09/14/09
09/14/09
Now, granted, I am focusing more on the Galliano collection and W spread, not Wasson (it's clear she's not all that bright). It's quite unfair to make the assumption that designers do not care about the homeless population.
09/14/09
Very good point re: eco friendly fashion. I haven't seem many directly inspired by nature, but I interned with a company that was hard core dedicated to ecofriendly/sustainable goods.
Maybe some designers do feel connected to homeless people, but like you I doubt it. But not all designers came from money, and many (especially when first starting out) are poor. Not homeless, but I'm sure there are some no name no money designers out there who do have homelessness as a concern.
09/14/09
for fuck's sake - I want people who can to help homeless people - all right. There is no need for all these analogies etc. The Homeless Need Help. If Money can bring that help, fine Take the fucking money. Sorry to sully your fashion world with homeless reality. Sorry I have a cold and may not be coherent at the moment, but I stated my position: Fucking help the Homeless - I am not the one ignoring them until I need "Inspiration for me fucking lame designs" Helping those in need requires no further explanation. I stated my position,why do I have to defend it or myself to you?
09/14/09
09/14/09
I did say yes, to give credit where it is due.
09/14/09
Of course homeless people have agency, and are individuals rather than just a "group", and I'm sure most don't care if they're used as inspiration. But concern is important, and not just from the fashion industry, but from most people.
09/14/09
09/14/09
Can't it be argued that "raising awareness" is helping? Oh, and throwing money at a problem doesn't always solve it. I hope you're not just writing checks and patting yourself on the back.
Positions need to be defended/questioned. If you can't deal with having to defend your opinion, or being questioned, keep it to yourself.
09/14/09
The issue of concern, while of course important, is moot.
09/14/09
I just think empathy is important (and not in a "YOU POOR THINGS, LET ME HELP YOU POOR THINGS" kind of way), and from anyone no matter their inpriration. But yeah, I'm getting off topic.
09/14/09
There is asking questions, and then there is making snide assumptions and putting your words as mine. GreenGrey: "So unless we're throwing money at them, we should ignore them. Gotcha"
Why should I care to defend/question/argue when you use such a lame tactic?
09/14/09
Having worked in fashion for the last 15 years (I actually left to start a non-profit, sickedned by the shallow-nature of the industry), I can say with relative confidence that MANY of the designers at the level of Galliano, Alaia, et al do NOT extend themselves to the homeless population in such a way as to be credited as "caring" about the homeless. But, still, you are right (though it was not my intention to convey such a sentiment): it's unfair to make that assumption about ALL designers.
09/14/09
09/14/09
Designing a fashion line based on homelessness is not "raising awareness" in any way, shape, or form. it is clearly exploitation of the disadvantaged and classism in its more disgusting and pure incarnation. its condescending and patronizing. the amount of money invested in high fashion each year is absolutely criminal compared to how underfunded homeless shelters and prevention services are. and of course writing a check isnt the solution to everything, a systemic change in the way we view and deal with homelessness is what is needed. but a shallow "oh arent they so fabulous! someone take a picture!" is not the change that is needed.
in the united states, the majority of homeless people were not born homeless. they are individuals through unfortunate circumstances found themselves in the most dire of situations and in a self-perpetuating cycle of poverty that is very difficult to break. poverty is not chic, desolation is not glamorous, and homelessness is NOT a fashion-trend.
these designers arent under any obligation to give money to homeless prevention or support, you're right. they are perfectly free to find "inspiration" in the people whose lives are crushed by the economic disparities that high-fashion celebrates and reinforces (because after all, isnt the point of owning chic and designer clothing based really just based on its exclusivity and price tag). but we, on the other hand, reserve the right to be disgusted and outraged by the arrogance and ignorance of these designers.
09/14/09
09/14/09
09/14/09
09/15/09
.....
well you could argue that its not appropriation, but rather exploitation, considering the fact that the homeless are not a self-identified cultural group but a marginalized economic underclass. but that point aside: are you implying that there is nothing wrong with cultural appropriation? because if you think that a majority group co-opting a marginalized groups cultural expression, retooling them in a way that removes meaning and context, and then selling it for a profit that will only be realized by the majority group, thereby reinforcing the majority group's dominant cultural power...well then i just wouldn't have a response to that because i would be dumbfounded.
09/14/09
I also liked that W spread, so sue me.
09/14/09
09/14/09
09/14/09
You aren't.
08/25/09
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08/25/09
08/25/09
08/25/09
There is simply no other explanation.
08/25/09
08/25/09