I really hate to be critical, but stories like this only seem to reinforce for me the idea that a woman's most important feature is what she looks like... I dunno, it seems as though this is kind of a case of "hooray, larger women can be objectified too"... I mean why does it always have to be about what a woman looks like? All women are 'real' women, and all women are completely different, and what all those women look like is not the most important thing about them.
After reading comments here and there, can we all just please agree that we have different healthy weights? Some are exceedingly healthy at a size 0 and some are exceedingly health at a size 14... I understand that "bigger" girls get shit for being big, and "smaller" girls get shit for being small, but really, can we all just settle on "this is my comfortable weight for my bone structure and background?"
@Ananelle: Demanding that we believe everyone who claims to be healthy is just as disingenuous as claiming that every subjectively unattractive person is a mutant who subsists on cheesecake. Both sides are full of shit.
I love this piece. I really like how casual the tone in the conversation is and yet there are so many disturbing stories being brought up. And the end strangely made me tear up! In short, I need this book in my life.
I read an interview wherein she said Nigella Lawson inspired her to understand a woman can like food, be curvy and still be hella sexy. I have a similar admiration for Ms. Lawson, so it made me love her even more.
@Flackette Goes Retro: It's funny that you say that, because the cover of the book reminds me of Nigella for some reason. It might be the hair, or the sexiness, I'm not sure, but they are both lovely ladies.
I just realized Crystal's book is co-authored by ex-Sassy magazine writer Margie Ingall!
If I had any doubts about how good this book would be before, they're gone now. Anything written by someone from Sassy is automatically amazing.
This should be required reading for agencies, designers and anyone who publishes fashion mags - not to mention anyone who is thinking about letting their child model.
also what i don't get about clothes sizes and dieting to fit into a 2 or 0~~ you can't shrink your bones. at my most fit, i weighed 120 and i was a size 6. for me to weigh any less, i'd look emaciated and sickly. just my bone/body type.
sizes have a lot more to do with body structure than just dieting, and i wish every asshole that thinks it's just a matter of not eating dessert anymore considers this.
@msAnthrope: i thought emaciated and sickly was the look we were going for here? c'mon girl- you can do it! do you really need to be eating more than twice a week? size 6 suggest no!
@msAnthrope: Oh totally. The moment I realized this was when my ballet dancer sister bought a vintage party dress, something like a size 6 or 8, when she normally fits in 2s and 4s. It fit her everywhere but her ribcage. She literally could not zip it because her bones were too large.
Sizes exist for a reason, and that reason is not to be a measurement of how much you "fail".
@sumerfish: I also have a big ribcage, and it is annoying. I have A-cup breasts, but my ribs aren't really a size "small" all by themselves. So when I go to buy swimsuit tops or strapless items, I can never decide if I'm a small (because of my breasts) or a medium/large because of my total circumference. Tricky!
i am for the most part sympathetic here, but i also have to wonder, for women that have chosen the Modeling Industry, why they balk at being measured? sure, the comments are gross and uncalled for, and hopefully those people get what's coming to them. but being measured, exposing yourself, keeping to a certain weight....these are all upfront aspects of the job. frankly, dealing with hateful people is also a fairly upfront aspect of the job. if you don't want to be treated like this, DON'T BECOME A MODEL.
@sandwiches78: Yeah I agree. And yes modeling is extremely sizeist and yes the fashion industry has insane ideas of women's bodies and yes its good that this woman feels good, but some of the things they are upset about happen in any field, not just modeling. I once responded to gentle, seemingly friendly questioning from a client about my outside projects with the truth of what I was up to- and they promptly turned face and complained to my boss that I was distracted. I've worked insane jobs where I was never fed, and short of a death in the family, I've never had a job where I could leave and cry and expect sympathy. And given our culture, I think every woman, not just models, relates to herself as an a object in some sense Part of these issues are just the facts of working lousy jobs.
@sandwiches78: Yeah, you're right - a model should be used to dealing with getting measured. And very few people have bosses who are entirely understanding about personal crises. But a model should not be openly mocked for gaining an inch (just drop them from the campaign), nor be made to work for three days without food, nor be expected to maintain the weight you were when you were FOURTEEN. Maintaining a healthy weight is fine, sure. But what actually occurs - not cool. And remember, many of these women were just GIRLS when they started. Modeling is the only thing they know. It's not like they can be like "You know what? Fuck you and your impossible body demands, I'm going to go out and become a banker."
@sandwiches78: Or you could, you know, try changing the industry in the ways you can. Just because an industry works a certain way doesn't mean it should never be challenged. Just because bosses can suck doesn't mean they should never be held accountable. And just because this industry involves measuring and weight ideals, doesn't mean it needs to be hostile, or that it shouldn't be questioned. Especially by those who work in it.
I think wanting to be treated with dignity and respect should be -expected- at any job. This is no different. The status quo should always, always, always be forced to re-evaluate itself, no matter what the field.
So, Crystal is doing things to adjust modeling from within it. I think that's positive, honestly. How else will it change? Why shouldn't it be expected to? What makes this job, or any job for that matter, not subject to scrutiny or change or common courtesy?
@sandwiches78: I can't speak for all models, but I never "balked" at being measured. I was measured constantly when I was working, by many different people at many different agencies, and it was mostly a non-issue -- a little fraught before show season or when I was under pressure to lose weight, but the purpose of measuring was clear, and necessary, and I accepted it.
But that one woman? I had just flown, at my own expense, across the Atlantic for the privilege of tithing her 50% of whatever I might earn during my stay in her country, and the first thing she had me do was set my suitcase down and stand before her, naked except for a nude mesh thong, jet-lagged and upset. Expecting her to show a modicum of human kindness -- or at least to refrain from using the measuring tape in her hands as a weapon to inflict as much damage to my self-esteem as possible -- was only the most minor, most reasonable, kind of courtesy.
I'm not even sure it rises to the level of "courtesy." It might just be plain professionalism, what I naively expected, from her.
@Jenna: Absolutely, the lack of professionalism I read about in so many fashion industry stories astounds me. These people (agencies, clients,etc) just seem to speak to one another without any social filter, as if they've known each other forever. There's candor and then there's just being an asshole. Fashion is a business, and one should act according to the traditional rules of formality in business.
On another note it's disheartening, how weight is still used for/against someone in the hiring process (in any industry). I know someone, (who is a slim size 6-8) who applied and was fully qualified to become an airline stewardess a few years ago. The only problem? She couldn't "comfortably fit" into the "random" chair the offered her to sit in at the interview.
@RonMwangaguhunga: What greengrey said, and also, models are so thin ostensibly because the clothes look better. The models are just clothes hangers. Literally. Clothes are supposed to hang better, and thus look better, on extremely thin women. I don't buy this, necessarily, since models have been getting progressively thinner as time goes on. If the way the clothes hang was really the reason, wouldn't models have been required to be extremely thin and stick like from the beginning? Smells to me more like another way to oppress women.
@greengrey: He makes a valid point. If you want your clothing to look good, they should make a woman look beautiful.
If the model isn't appealing to the man, who more than likely isn't going to be wearing the clothing, then what is his incentive to be interested in the clothing on the model.
I'm not going to have an abstract interest in fashion, and I buy clothing for the women I see. As such I have an interest in seeing what would look good on the person I am seeing. If you can't give me that, then you are failing a large core of your audience.
You don't have to cater, but you do have to listen.
@MissMollyKate: the impossible standards of modeling i think appeal more and more only to the people in charge of fashion -- not women, not men, not anyone really who is outside the bubble world
@greengrey: Well, I don't think that he's saying that it should cater to what men think is hot. I think he's saying that he doesn't understand why it seems that women think it''s hot - since it's in fashion magazines. He just doesn't understand the preference.
@hannahanloveyoulongtime: Do women think it's hot? Because whenever one of these posts come up I always see a bunch of women claiming that size 0's aren't "real".
@greengrey: I wasn't even making a straight men comment. I was saying that people of color have a more nuanced idea of the shape of beauty, that's all, greengray.
@RonMwangaguhunga: No no no, you weren't jezebeled, you were dworkined!
Can you explain why the black view regarding beauty is more nuanced than the white view?
@Dictator for Life: Wait I don't get the whole clothes hanger thing. Great designers make women look good with the way they cut and design their clothes. TO FIT WOMEN. WOMEN BUY THE CLOTHES. IF we are paying for the clothes, shouldn't the clothes be designed for us? It's kind of like being a chef who creates crap tasting food. Would anyone say "go fit your tastebuds around what the chef is trying to create?" No way! if you develop food dishes that are inedible or unattainable, no one will eat it. So why are clothes different? Yes Mary I know you are an artiste but you can't have form without function when it comes to a basic need such as clothes.
@greengrey: Hoo boy (and I didn't mean anything boorish by the use of *boy*). Generally, men of color who are attracted to women are attracted to women with curves.
@RonMwangaguhunga: Heh. Welcome. Hazing is finished. I appreciate your comment and I'm glad to see more men commenting here. It's good to have male opinions here, too, from those who can stand it :)
@greengrey: *walking gently so as not to step on egg shells* More nuanced than that "great beauty thing with the fashion world," the point I made in my original comment, not all white people. The fashion world's standard of what constitutes the perfect shape seems, to me, one-dimensional.
@RonMwangaguhunga: But why does/should the fashion industry represent what's "hot/beautiful/whatever"?
It IS one dimensional, but that's because it has to be cohesive, not because it's decided that that's what the "beauty standard" should be. I would like to see more diversity on the runway, but more in the sense of racial diversity.
What's shown on the runway (and the bodies that walk down it) shouldn't have anything to do with what men think is hot. It's about a designer showing their clothes. That's it. The models are the "canvas" for them. Ideally, they shouldn't be the standard.
@greengrey: But models are fetishised by the nature of the fashion world, and they therefore represent what then is expected and desired of the regular population. Even if fashion isn't concerned with what is sexy or hot, it still had a big impact on our expectations of appearance, however misguided or incorrect. 'Ideally, they shouldn't be the standard.' Agreed. But they are. So why is an opinion that one doesn't see them as attractive as a plus-size woman so offensive to you? It should be empowering when anyone can agree that a variety of people should be represented on runways.
@JerkoftheMonth: If they are the "standard" why are they so many men and women claiming that they aren't "real women"? If they were the "standard" then why is it SO MANY people who aren't model sized find "love" and get married? Male models are no where near what the average American male is, but very few people complain about them. Why? Why do we complain about the sizes of female models but not male models? What's on the runway will ALWAYS be unrealistic. It's nothing to get upset over.
The opinion that someone doesn't find a model hot isn't offensive. The opinion that designers should send what straight men find hot down the runway is.
No one should find empowerment in insulting other body types. Should women on the runway be larger? I don't think so. Should catalog models be more representative of average? Sure.
@greengrey: It may always been unrealistic, but I do think that there's a certain...ideal set by the runway. It trickles down and is somewhat adjusted, but the thin ideal is undeniably pervasive. While it would be great if we could all just shrug it off, that's not very realistic. It's not like it's not presented to us in a thousand different ways.
The way I look at it, designers treat models as a canvas, and the runway is an art show. They want to present their art on as blank a canvas as possible. Tall and slim women present a minimum of lines to compete with the lines, drape, and styling of the clothing. I get that, from an artistic standpoint. It's not really about the body it's about the body -lines-.
However, fashion is not a purely aesthetic art form. It's an applied, functional art. What's on the runway gets translated into the every day with fashion trends. And that has come to be true of the body types we see modeling them. And while I'm not sure everyone expects every woman to look like a model...there is an expectation that we should want to, and strive to, and since most of us can't grow, we can starve.
I do think it would be good for high fashion, as an industry, to become more diverse across the board. If you're a good designer, you should be able to make clothes that look great on anyone. Because, again, it's not an art form that's purely for admiration. It's applied.
That said, real women are women who identify that way. Full stop. Body shape and size are not what defines a "real" woman. I get why people get frustrated, and thin privilege is an obstacle, but "real" women are women at any size or shape. We won't make headway with body diversity by claiming any body type isn't womanly.
I think he's bringing up a really important point here- he's contrasting beauty standards in non-white communities with those in the fashion industry. Which is to say that both the fashion industry and whiteness as a structure are a part of the creation of beauty standards. Clearly race and the fashion industry interplay, clearly beauty standards are very tied up in whiteness. The beauty ideal IS white. Looking at runways and magazines confirms this.
You keep insisting that fashion is supposed to be a fantasy, and not connected to reality. Well, clearly that fantasy is, for so many people, a world that is much whiter than the one we actually live in. Which is one of the many reasons its far from a harmless one.
@greengrey: I don't think women think it's hot. I just think that it may seem that way since magazines aimed at women cater to the concept that attractive or high fashion is equivalent to size 0.
Thank you for this interview. I'm glad she's in a good place now and I really enjoyed hearing the stories and rumors (Japan - who knew?) and other snippets of the modeling world you both shared.
That reprehensible "fat ass" comment reminds me of that episode of ANTM when Cassie's hips were measured and the designer was a total asshole about it. I still get filled with anger watching that.
Would these men say this shit to a woman in any other circumstance? Because they shouldn't be saying it at all, since they're, you know, talking to another human being. I don't really understand what his "fat ass" comment was meant to accomplish--Crystal Renn's ass was still acceptable by model standards, if she was hired for the shoot right?
Great interview, Jenna. The old man interrupting the interview was sort of sweet.
I am so done with fashion and fashion industry. When I see those skinny girls walking the catwalk, I do not see myself in those clothes.
Crystal Renn is plus size? BS. She is normal size. Size zero is a normal size for a 10 year old girl, not for a woman with boobs, hips and ass.
Maybe closeted pedophiles are running the business?
@GorillaB: This question isn't meant to be an ass hole question, but can you afford the clothes on the runway anyway? The sizes aren't the only "unrealistic" part.
Also, you might not want to talk about size 0 only being normal for 10 year olds, it makes you sound stupid. Ripping other sizes apart CAN'T be the only way you can feel OK with yourself, yeah?? Please don't project your insecurity onto other women.
And that "pedophile" bull shit is old. REALLY old.
@greengrey: Why are you ripping into absolutely everyone? Please breathe. Seriously.
@Gorillab: Crystal Renn is a size 14 I believe, which actually is plus-sized on the rack as well.. That being said, she is absolutely gorgeous. There should not be any such thing as "normal" sized, as we are all built with different figures and comfortable weights. =)
@GorillaB: Yikes. Why are you criticizing other women's bodies to make your point. I'm a small size, yet I have big boobs and wide hips for my frame. Also, since when does thin and extremely tall look childlike?
@GorillaB: "Size zero is a normal size for a 10 year old girl, not for a woman with boobs, hips and ass."
Speak for yourself. My tits and closet would beg to differ and you don't have to be emaciated or heavy to wear a certain size. Very often it has to do with your body's frame.
@GorillaB: You know, I like to think of myself as a real woman, and sometimes a size zero is too big. People are different sizes. "Normal" is not the same for everyone. Size zero is normal for me because I am a petite person and I resent the notion that if someone is designing clothing for a woman my size that they are a "closeted pedophile."
I appreciate the part of this post where you that Renn doesn't look very "plus-sized."
The women that are sold as "plus-sized" models are to real plus-sized women what the waifs that walk down the runway are to "normal" sized women - an unattainable ideal.
Maybe I missed the actual number, but by sight I would guess then Renn is a size 12, 14 tops. Hardly what is considered, outside of modeling, to be plus sized. Its more like the average size of women. She must wear the smallest size that Lane Bryant makes, just like the "normal" sized models wear a 0.
@greengrey: Yeah, I really wish people could talk about this without making remarks about thin bodies. "Real" women are any women, who identify that way. Thin, fat, big boobed, no boobs, long hair, short, etc. Saying "real" women have curves is a form of body judgment, and it's not helpful.
I get that thin privilege is an issue, but the "pedophiles" and "only 10 year olds" thing is just...not helpful. And not true anyway. We're all built differently. We should be able to talk about the need for diversity and body acceptance without putting anyone else's down.
@tiredfairy: Well, I would prefer to be a fake woman. The maybe I could pay fake taxes and fake rent. Who the heck do these "real women" people think they are? Sarah Palin??
I BET THEY'RE FAKE AMMMURIKUNS!
Let me elaborate that for you. I am not against size 0.
I am against the promotion of the fashion industry of the stick thin figure because it is not realistic. A woman is supposed to be round because that is the work of the female hormone estrogen. Biology says so. It is hurtful towards yourself to fight you nature because some dick says you are fat? You can have a size 0 waist and size 8 breast. Does that make you a freak? No That makes you a woman. Maybe sizing is as bullshit as BMI index. The natural stick thin figures I see are prepubescent girls. Hence my remark about pedophiles. I was not aware it was old. I wonder why people keep having the same conclusion trough time?? The rest of you remarks says more about you that about me.
@Ananelle: Seriously? Please breath? You have a problem with someone expressing disagreement with more than one BS statement at a time? What's an appropriate daily limit?
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It's all about matching the model to the outfit.
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... Please?
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If I had any doubts about how good this book would be before, they're gone now. Anything written by someone from Sassy is automatically amazing.
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sizes have a lot more to do with body structure than just dieting, and i wish every asshole that thinks it's just a matter of not eating dessert anymore considers this.
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Sizes exist for a reason, and that reason is not to be a measurement of how much you "fail".
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I think wanting to be treated with dignity and respect should be -expected- at any job. This is no different. The status quo should always, always, always be forced to re-evaluate itself, no matter what the field.
So, Crystal is doing things to adjust modeling from within it. I think that's positive, honestly. How else will it change? Why shouldn't it be expected to? What makes this job, or any job for that matter, not subject to scrutiny or change or common courtesy?
09/17/09
But that one woman? I had just flown, at my own expense, across the Atlantic for the privilege of tithing her 50% of whatever I might earn during my stay in her country, and the first thing she had me do was set my suitcase down and stand before her, naked except for a nude mesh thong, jet-lagged and upset. Expecting her to show a modicum of human kindness -- or at least to refrain from using the measuring tape in her hands as a weapon to inflict as much damage to my self-esteem as possible -- was only the most minor, most reasonable, kind of courtesy.
I'm not even sure it rises to the level of "courtesy." It might just be plain professionalism, what I naively expected, from her.
09/17/09
On another note it's disheartening, how weight is still used for/against someone in the hiring process (in any industry). I know someone, (who is a slim size 6-8) who applied and was fully qualified to become an airline stewardess a few years ago. The only problem? She couldn't "comfortably fit" into the "random" chair the offered her to sit in at the interview.
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If the model isn't appealing to the man, who more than likely isn't going to be wearing the clothing, then what is his incentive to be interested in the clothing on the model.
I'm not going to have an abstract interest in fashion, and I buy clothing for the women I see. As such I have an interest in seeing what would look good on the person I am seeing. If you can't give me that, then you are failing a large core of your audience.
You don't have to cater, but you do have to listen.
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I guess I was just Jezebeled. Glad I survived the experience.
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@RonMwangaguhunga: No no no, you weren't jezebeled, you were dworkined!
Can you explain why the black view regarding beauty is more nuanced than the white view?
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Of course you did. Words are not fists.
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It IS one dimensional, but that's because it has to be cohesive, not because it's decided that that's what the "beauty standard" should be. I would like to see more diversity on the runway, but more in the sense of racial diversity.
What's shown on the runway (and the bodies that walk down it) shouldn't have anything to do with what men think is hot. It's about a designer showing their clothes. That's it. The models are the "canvas" for them. Ideally, they shouldn't be the standard.
09/17/09
09/17/09
The opinion that someone doesn't find a model hot isn't offensive. The opinion that designers should send what straight men find hot down the runway is.
No one should find empowerment in insulting other body types. Should women on the runway be larger? I don't think so. Should catalog models be more representative of average? Sure.
09/17/09
09/17/09
The way I look at it, designers treat models as a canvas, and the runway is an art show. They want to present their art on as blank a canvas as possible. Tall and slim women present a minimum of lines to compete with the lines, drape, and styling of the clothing. I get that, from an artistic standpoint. It's not really about the body it's about the body -lines-.
However, fashion is not a purely aesthetic art form. It's an applied, functional art. What's on the runway gets translated into the every day with fashion trends. And that has come to be true of the body types we see modeling them. And while I'm not sure everyone expects every woman to look like a model...there is an expectation that we should want to, and strive to, and since most of us can't grow, we can starve.
I do think it would be good for high fashion, as an industry, to become more diverse across the board. If you're a good designer, you should be able to make clothes that look great on anyone. Because, again, it's not an art form that's purely for admiration. It's applied.
That said, real women are women who identify that way. Full stop. Body shape and size are not what defines a "real" woman. I get why people get frustrated, and thin privilege is an obstacle, but "real" women are women at any size or shape. We won't make headway with body diversity by claiming any body type isn't womanly.
09/17/09
I think he's bringing up a really important point here- he's contrasting beauty standards in non-white communities with those in the fashion industry. Which is to say that both the fashion industry and whiteness as a structure are a part of the creation of beauty standards. Clearly race and the fashion industry interplay, clearly beauty standards are very tied up in whiteness. The beauty ideal IS white. Looking at runways and magazines confirms this.
You keep insisting that fashion is supposed to be a fantasy, and not connected to reality. Well, clearly that fantasy is, for so many people, a world that is much whiter than the one we actually live in. Which is one of the many reasons its far from a harmless one.
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Would these men say this shit to a woman in any other circumstance? Because they shouldn't be saying it at all, since they're, you know, talking to another human being. I don't really understand what his "fat ass" comment was meant to accomplish--Crystal Renn's ass was still acceptable by model standards, if she was hired for the shoot right?
Great interview, Jenna. The old man interrupting the interview was sort of sweet.
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Crystal Renn is plus size? BS. She is normal size. Size zero is a normal size for a 10 year old girl, not for a woman with boobs, hips and ass.
Maybe closeted pedophiles are running the business?
09/17/09
Also, you might not want to talk about size 0 only being normal for 10 year olds, it makes you sound stupid. Ripping other sizes apart CAN'T be the only way you can feel OK with yourself, yeah?? Please don't project your insecurity onto other women.
And that "pedophile" bull shit is old. REALLY old.
09/17/09
@Gorillab: Crystal Renn is a size 14 I believe, which actually is plus-sized on the rack as well.. That being said, she is absolutely gorgeous. There should not be any such thing as "normal" sized, as we are all built with different figures and comfortable weights. =)
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Speak for yourself. My tits and closet would beg to differ and you don't have to be emaciated or heavy to wear a certain size. Very often it has to do with your body's frame.
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I appreciate the part of this post where you that Renn doesn't look very "plus-sized."
The women that are sold as "plus-sized" models are to real plus-sized women what the waifs that walk down the runway are to "normal" sized women - an unattainable ideal.
Maybe I missed the actual number, but by sight I would guess then Renn is a size 12, 14 tops. Hardly what is considered, outside of modeling, to be plus sized. Its more like the average size of women. She must wear the smallest size that Lane Bryant makes, just like the "normal" sized models wear a 0.
Same old shit, new size.
09/17/09
I get that thin privilege is an issue, but the "pedophiles" and "only 10 year olds" thing is just...not helpful. And not true anyway. We're all built differently. We should be able to talk about the need for diversity and body acceptance without putting anyone else's down.
09/17/09
I BET THEY'RE FAKE AMMMURIKUNS!
09/18/09
Let me elaborate that for you. I am not against size 0.
I am against the promotion of the fashion industry of the stick thin figure because it is not realistic. A woman is supposed to be round because that is the work of the female hormone estrogen. Biology says so. It is hurtful towards yourself to fight you nature because some dick says you are fat? You can have a size 0 waist and size 8 breast. Does that make you a freak? No That makes you a woman. Maybe sizing is as bullshit as BMI index. The natural stick thin figures I see are prepubescent girls. Hence my remark about pedophiles. I was not aware it was old. I wonder why people keep having the same conclusion trough time?? The rest of you remarks says more about you that about me.
09/18/09
09/18/09
I have a message for you from Biology: You Lie!