<![CDATA[Jezebel: Fashion Week]]> http://cache.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: Fashion Week]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/fashion week http://jezebel.com/tag/fashion week <![CDATA[ Bruno Crashes Paris Fashion Week! ]]>
  • Apparently emboldened by last week's success in Milan, Bruno — aka Sacha Baron Cohen — crashed Stella McCartney today. "With his red thong clearly visible above his jeans, the comedian — who was virtually unrecognisable in a flamboyant leather gilet, with his slicked-down hair dyed blonde and brown — sucked Tampax, clapped along to the music and generally disgruntled the front row by continually pushing aside those sitting in front of him for a better look at the models." He then delivered a "lone standing ovation." [VogueUK]
  • In total radness: DVF to design a comic book in connection with her Wonder Woman-inspired collection. Really hoping she has to make the rounds of the comics conventions. [Fashionista]
  • Chloe Sevigny gets into menswear. Well, Gallo will wear it. [Nylon]

  • Andre Benjamin's clothing line is for the modern fop. "To create a persona for his fashion line, Mr. Benjamin combined his surname with that of Bill Bixby. The character is a world traveler whose wardrobe includes things like a $995 cotton corduroy blazer, a $350 felted waistcoat and a $95 newsboy cap." [NY Times]
  • Whoever wears that will surely be the intended demographic for "J. Crew's first book." "Written by Max Blagg and illustrated by Hugo Guinness, What a Man Should Know is a collection of 50 (very) whimsical tips for the modern male. So what should you know? Chess, wine, and figure-drawing." [Men.Style]
  • Some people claimed Heidi stole the Project Runway premise — aka the same setup every single competition reality show has ever had ever. A judge, not surprisingly, dismissed it. [wwltv]
  • Michelle Obama sports H&M on the campaign trail. [BlackBook]
  • Lagerfeld video. Nuff said. [NY Mag]
  • Scary Spice Mel B wants a Project Runway-style reality show. Get in line, kid. [E]
  • Rather than going bargain basement, Target courts recessionistas. [Business Week]
  • More on Miss Sixty's woes. [BBC]
  • Sorta It-Girl Cory Kennedy to replace Kinda It-Girl Daisy Lowe as the face of Docs. [Fashionista]
  • Levi's tries way, way too hard: "The San Francisco company has launched a new viral effort it hopes will attract young men to pass along videos of customized "beasts" emerging from the button-fly of Levi's jeans. At Unbuttonyourbeast.com, visitors can choose from nine different animated characters with names like Trout Troutman, Paul the Pincher and Sock Nasty, then customize the beast's message by calling a toll-free number. The effort, unsurprisingly, is geared to young men just out of college." The emails are titled, "Do you dare to unbutton my beast?" [AdWeek]
  • India eases the way for the burgeoning luxury market. [IHT]
  • Guy Ritchie's first hit since hooking up with Madge: a Nike ad gets big on YouTube. [Telegraph]
  • Naomi Campbell's gonna walk for Hermes; everybody flips out. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • I wish these celebs would stop calling their mix tapes "albums." Anyhoo, Heatherette designer Richie Rich's, "Celebutante," is about to drop. [Fashionista]
  • "If there were a gold medal for marathon modeling, Shalom Harlow would surely win it for the Viktor & Rolf fashion film that will begin today on the Dutch duo’s Web site. 'It was like the fashion Olympics,' said Rolf Snoeren, who, with Viktor Horsting, reenacted a high-tech version of 'Funny Face' to showcase their spring collection. 'It was 14 hours a day on high heels, but she was a champion.'” [WWD]
  • 80's power shoulders are big (sorry) on the Paris runways. [WSJ]
  • That gold statue of Kate Moss was just unveiled. [Mirror]
  • UGGS are like cockroaches: all that will be left after a nuclear holocaust. While everything else is foundering, UGGs is way up! [WSJ]
  • The Lauren Conrad line forlorn and unbought. [Page Six]
  • Bossy new bikini has "decorative beads" that change color when UV rays grow dangerously high. [Telegraph]
  • Screw Jimmy Choos. Cheap shoes make more sense for actual walking. [Daily News]
  • "Margherita Missoni, meanwhile, has experienced some teasing for wearing vintage sparkling Harper’s Bazaar frames — due to an eye problem. 'Suzy Menkes says it’s my Sarah Palin look,' she laughed. 'It is definitely not inspired by her.'" [WWD]

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Thu, 02 Oct 2008 11:30:00 EDT Sadie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5058037&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ At Fashion Week In Milan, Prada Was A Real Problem ]]> New York Fashion Week is over, but Fashion Week in Milan has just gotten underway. Yesterday, the biggest of the biggies, Prada, showed on a runway painted with fish. Those little suckers must have been slippery — or perhaps the unwieldy, chunky, wooden platform shoes were a poor choice? — because several models tumbled. And, horrors: Anna Wintour was there to witness the debacle. The New York Times has video of the end of the show — one model's ankles wobble so much, so hard, she gives up, turns around and heads backstage instead of doing the final walk. Additionally, one model Miuccia Prada sent down the runway in a cropped burgundy sweater was so thin that her ribcage is all you really notice. It's as though her bones are on display. As if all this were not bad enough: The clothes sucked.


Nothing seemed to fit or flatter or to be designed with a woman's figure in mind. Everything seemed to be put together as though the items of clothing had been hanging on clotheslines and the model had just run through, with pieces falling where they may… Except without any of the fun and frivolity that description invokes. The garments were shapeless, uninspired, and in some cases, baffling. This is not the wardrobe a working woman with money dreams of. And though, in the past, Prada's been known for its accessories, since the shoes proved perilous for professional models, mere mortals had best steer clear. Judge for yourself: A gallery begins below.

Plus: Here is a short clip of the runway show, in which you can see models falling:

Spring 2009 Prada, Prada: Time to Reboot? Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Jil Sander Clears The Runway [NY Times]
Prada Girls Hit The Floor [Made In Brazil]

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Wed, 24 Sep 2008 16:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5054326&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ If The Economy's So Bad, Why Are Hemlines So Short? ]]> By now we've all heard the saw that hemlines fall when the economy's bad. So, the FT asks, what's up with all the minis on the Spring runways? Says writer Vanessa Friedman, "Either American designers are engaging in wishful thinking or they know something Wall Street doesn’t." I'm gonna go with, neither. And you know what? I wish anyone in fashion was that aware of the economy! I wish, too, that the way people dressed had anything to do with the larger climate beyond what a few millionaires have decided is transgressive. I wish we didn't live in a weird, fractured time where not just a few oblivious designers were allowed to ignore a recession, but where by extension we all do too.

It's not hard to see why in the past an economic downturn was mirrored sartorially: after the taboo-breaking of the 20s something more somber seemed apropos during the Depression; ditto the recession of the 70s, I guess. These were economic realities that couldn't be ignored, after all — people lived them. So, why the minis now? Think about it: in the days when hemlines went with the economy, clothes were just one more part of a cultural shift, Fashion was not the cultural leader it fancies itself today. Whereas before a hem might drop just as the tone of music or film altered, today Fashion is in the vanguard - insinuating itself our lives and our consciousness in a way it's wholly unfit to do.

Never before did models and designers feel they had the right to spout off about politics and mores; like any part of celebrity culture it's wholly out of proportion and out of its depth. Unlike the rest of celebrity culture, people still look to what happens in Bryant Park as a financial Farmer's Almanac. I'm sure designers love the idea that they're playing with our destinies and can prognosticate our financial and national future. But the truth is, fashion is resolutely ignoring economic woes, coming out with a Spring collection noteworthy in its use of luxury materials and more reminiscent of the 80s boom than the earlier slump this era more closely resembles. They're not "optimistic," they're oblivious.

And what's worrying is that it seems to reflect the larger ignorance and denial of the times, a time that doesn't want to face anything serious or boring or worrisome and would rather raise hems another few inches, pretend everything's great, and assume homeless people dress the way they do because they have such amazing style.

Keep It Short [FT]

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Wed, 17 Sep 2008 15:00:00 EDT Sadie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5051314&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ From Frenzied To Fierce: Behind The Scenes With Christian Siriano ]]> Friend-of-Jezebel Brad Walsh, whom we have hired in the past to photograph shows during Fashion Week, happens to have a very talented boyfriend: Christian Siriano, the winner of the fourth season of Project Runway — and the show's youngest winner. Twenty-two year-old Christian showed his Spring 2009 collection last week, and Brad was there, from beginning to end. He's put together some images (and words) for us. The dresses, the shoes, the hair, the drama — with no tickety-tack hot tranny mess, after the jump.

"I was so proud of Christian when he won last season's Project Runway; he worked so hard on that collection and he was terrified nobody was going to like it. When Heidi announced he was the winner and he cried, I cried. It was very surreal that it was all happening, that that was my boyfriend. I'm still beaming. So last night, when he finally got to show his full spring collection, solo and as a part of New York fashion week, it was a hugely emotional event. I was even more proud last night, and once again his fears that nobody was going to like the clothes were immediately quashed by all the buyers and press and celebrities in attendance who were aghast at how beautiful everything was. I have been taking photos of the preparations, castings, fittings, backstage, show, and after party. Here's a collection of some of them." — Brad Walsh.

Photography and words by Brad Walsh.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5050114&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Some Designers Still Don't Feel Like Using Black Models ]]> New York Fashion Week may be over, but a few media outlets have kept an eye on how many black models walked in the shows, much like we did last season. Diane von Furstenberg, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent a letter to designers, urging them to seek diversity when casting models. Reuters reports that though von Furstenberg used many black models on her runways — as did Tracy Reese and DKNY — there were still some labels for which only one — or no — black models were used.

According to StereoHyped, Behnaz Sarafpour used one black model; Rodarte used one; Jill Stuart used 4, up from zero last season. Calvin Klein used one. Monique Lhullier used none. Reuters reports that Vivienne Tam also used none.

After writing about this subject repeatedly, it's still shocking to see a post by a commenter on StereoHyped which reads: "Please explain to me why this is such an important issue?" It's incredible that people really don't get it. Having only white models on New York Fashion Week runways sends a dangerous message: That there is only one high-fashion "look," and it is to have pale skin. During Fashion Week, reporters come from around the globe, photographers take pictures that are seen in hundreds of countries. New York is a cosmopolitan city where it is unacceptable to tell a woman you're not going to hire her because she is black. And yet, for the past few years, that's exactly what has been happening in the fashion industry. In New York.

So, are things slowly getting better? "Visually on the runways, it has improved," model mogul (and organizer of the "Absence Of Color" summits) Bethann Hardison tells Reuters. "But the results are still racist. [Designers] choose the same white and never go towards the brown or the dark."

Fashion Week Features Few Black Runway Models [Reuters]
Black Model Watch: Spring '09 Fashion Week [StereoHyped]

Earllier: Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash

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Mon, 15 Sep 2008 12:30:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049951&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ This Week We Discovered You Can't Spell Palin Without PAIN ]]>
  • We've gotten a lot of emails this week whining about the excess of Palin coverage. But you know what Palin hates more than anything — whiners! If you whine, the terrorists win…Or something. Anyway, check out what Judge Judy thinks about Sarah Palin.
  • Also check out what American Wife author Curtis Sittenfeld thinks about Sarah Palin!
  • Don't forget about comparing her future potential reign to Margaret Atwood's Handmaid's Tale!
  • With all of this nonsense, we almost forgot it was FASHION WEEK! Check out Dodai's Project Runway Bryant Park show live blog and the rest of our fashion week posts.

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 18:10:00 EDT Jessica http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049225&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ <i>Project Runway</i> Fashion Show: Leanne ]]> Twenty-seven year-old Leanne hails from Yuba City, California, although she was born and raised in Portland. She's a graduate of FIDM in San Francisco and calls her line "Leanimal." When she walked out onto the runway this morning at Bryant Park, it was clear that the crowd loved her: She received a warm round of applause; and people were clapping as her garments came down the catwalk, as well. Her collection — almost entirely in blue and cream — is really in a different league. It's structured, yet ethereal; dreamy, but defined; whimsical yet wearable. She toys with ideas and shapes and repeats themes but twists them so that each piece is completely different, fresh and new. And, in a word: Gorgeous. You know you want to see for yourself! The show starts after the jump.





Photography by Alex Wright.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049142&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ <i>Project Runway</i> Fashion Show: Korto ]]> Originally from Liberia, Korto went to fashion school in Canada. But now she lives in Little Rock, Arkansas with her husband and daughter. This morning when she presented her collection at Bryant Park, she said she was inspired by nature, and there certainly were a lot of green dresses on the runway. But Korto's genius is in the details, and while you may not be able to tell in the pictures, she folded, pleated and twisted her rich fabrics in interesting ways to create a series of hot, tropical looks. Check it out: The show starts after the jump.

Photography by Alex Wright.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 16:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049124&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Intrepid <em>New York</em> Reporter Hits On Moddles, Fails Hilariously ]]> Our brother in blogging Neel Shah performed a tongue-in-cheek experiment that many men have attempted earnestly in the past week: hitting on moddles. Neel went to various fashion week parties and used the worst lines he could think of to see how the various glamazons would react, and the results were hilarious! The best exchange was definitely, "Neel: I have a table at GoldBar. Bottles. Interested? Katja: (pictured at left) Actually I'm married, I have a daughter, and I can buy my own drinks, thank you very much. Bye-bye." AHAHAH BURN!

Anyway, Neel's not alone in his quest for women who are, let's say, out of his league. According to a new (no shit) study, "men were less likely than women to think that their own lack of attractiveness — based both on a self assessment and the ratings of others — should stand in the way of a date with someone 'hot,'" MSNBC reports.

According to a recent article in Psychological Science, less than perfect men "hedge their bets by asking for more dates. In fact, the men in the study requested a full 240 percent more dates than the women. Researchers didn't look at how many of these online come-ons were successful, but the number of dates most men asked for might be a sign that the less attractive among us — even the men — recognize that they may have to settle for dating someone who is closer to them on the 'hotness' scale." However, some of the grandiose ambitions of schlubby dudes may have to do with what they see on TV and in movies. MSNBC reports, "Leonard Lee, an assistant professor at Columbia’s Graduate School of Business, thinks these far-fetched movie and TV couples might explain why unfortunate-looking men tend to hold out such high hopes."

But, Lee points out something important: "unattractive guys eventually learn that their chances are slim [with uber hot ladies] regardless of what they see on screen. There’s another important finding in the study, he says: The 10s among us, both male and female, want only to date other 10s," MSNBC notes.

How Not to Hit On Models: A Primer [NY Mag]
Why Guys Go Gor Outta-Their-League Ladies

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 15:20:00 EDT Jessica http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049140&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ <em>Project Runway</em> Fashion Show: Kenley ]]> Twenty-five year-old Kenley from Pompano Beach, Florida is the daughter of a tugboat captain and the youngest of three girls. This morning when presenting her collection at Bryant Park, Kenley said she was inspired by Alice In Wonderland and had designed her "dream wardrobe." She played with ruffles, feathers, color and volume — showing skirts both full and sleek. Quirky party dresses for girls who like to play dress-up! Judge for yourself: The show starts after the jump.







Photography by Alex Wright.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:40:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049091&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ <em>Project Runway</em> Fashion Show: Joe ]]> Hailing from Detroit, Michigan and being the show's only straight guy, Joe has actually worked at Bugle Boy and Ralph Lauren. His collection is inspired by "Americana," which means bustiers and skirts in denim and leather, with turquoise belts. Kind of like Ralph Lauren or Tommy Hilfiger 16 years ago. Even if his pieces were not terribly innovative, they were quite wearable. The leather bustiers had interesting details. There is a woman who's the perfect audience for some of this stuff, and her name is Jessica Simpson. But that's just my opinion: Judge for yourself. The show starts after the jump!



Photography by Alex Wright.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049076&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ <i>Project Runway</i> Fashion Show: Suede ]]> On the Bravo site, Suede claims his "fashion must" is a "great hoodie." This "edgy" and "alternative" designer from Seven Hills, Ohio presented a collection at Bryant Park this morning that was pretty much just like cotton candy: Sugary, pink and tacky. Some of the ideas — like kicky little car wash skirts or frothy tulle party dresses — were fun, in theory, but none of it seemed to fit or flatter. Judge for yourself: The show starts after the jump.











Photography by Alex Wright.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 13:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049058&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ <i>Project Runway</i> Fashion Show: Jerell ]]> Jerell was the first Project Runway contestant to show a collection this morning at Bryant Park. He is a former model from Houston, Texas, and his collection was sequin-heavy, with layers of sheer tulle. There were some stripes and some jackets that added a military or pirate vibe, but the final gown at the end — a whipped cream confection with yards of tulle peeking from underneath — was the best piece. Judge for yourself: The show begins after the jump!









Photography by Alex Wright.
(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 12 Sep 2008 12:40:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5049041&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Anna Sui ]]> Born in Detroit to immigrant parents — her mother a painter, her father an engineer who graduated from The Sorbonne in Paris — Anna Sui's first runway show was in 1991. Some seventeen years later, she's still known for mixing girly and quirky and her love of flea markets is reflected in her upbeat, funky designs. For Spring 2009, Sui drew inspiration from handmade "ethnic" clothing — at various times, items from the collection seemed like they could be Polish, Chinese, Indian, African, Mexican or Spanish. A traveling gypsy show for modern women on the go? You be the judge: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Thu, 11 Sep 2008 15:30:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5048601&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Doo.Ri ]]> Thirty-six year old Doo Ri Chung is known for her "smart, slouchy sophistication." Before winning some cash from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund a couple of years ago, she'd been working out of the basement of her parents’ New Jersey dry-cleaning store. For Spring 2009, her collection is fairly simple: Despite some interesting, droopy pants, her strength is in dresses. Whether drenched in color, embellished with sequins or left deceptively neutral, all of her frocks have an easy, just-throw-it-on appeal that jibes with the way women like to get dressed. Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Thu, 11 Sep 2008 11:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5048427&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Oscar de la Renta ]]> Born in the Dominican Republic, educated in Spain, trained by Cristóbal Balenciaga and friends with the late Diana Vreeland, Oscar de la Renta is basically a legend in his own time. His designs are always poised, refined, classic, elegant and timeless, and his collection for Spring 2009 absolutely delivers. These are incredibly sophisticated, lady-like visions for women of class and rank. Fit for a First Lady! The hardest part when looking through the strapless gowns is deciding which is the most divine. Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Thu, 11 Sep 2008 10:40:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5048409&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Nanette Lepore ]]> Born in the Midwest, Nanette Lepore traveled a lot with her family as a kid and says it gave her a "gypsy spirit." This is reflected in her clothes, which have a detailed chicness one would associate with an international line. For Spring 2009, Nanette Lepore's collection was heavy on the florals, shown with muted stripes and ruffles. The monochromatic pieces seemed stronger, but judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.







(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Wed, 10 Sep 2008 16:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5048049&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Halston ]]> Roy Halston Frowick, born in 1932, died in 1990. In the mid to late '70s, his designs were extremely popular amongst the jet set Studio 54 types like Bianca Jagger and Anjelica Huston. This Spring 2008 collection, designed by an "in-house team" after head designer Marco Zanini was fired in July, is very clearly Vintage Halston. The shape of every piece is long, lean, languid, drapey and right out of a discotéque. The colors, however, are very Now: Persimmon, cobalt, rose petal. The combination of energetic colors and lounge-y clothing evokes a detached, international cool. Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:30:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5048030&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Betsey Johnson ]]> She may be 66 years old, but Betsey Johnson has always been young at heart. Her designs consistently showcase whimsy, ruffles, tulle and a playful girlishness that she herself exhibits by doing a signature cartwheel on the runway at the end of a show. For Spring 2009, Betsey's kooky vision is part Gothic Lolita, part "let's run away with the circus!" and part Scarlett O'Hara: The Lean Years. With some pirate booty thrown in. Take a deep breath and plunge into the madness: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Tue, 09 Sep 2008 18:30:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5047577&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Matthew Williamson ]]> British designer Matthew Williamson is known for making beautiful clothes drenched in color and his collection for Spring 2009 certainly delivered: There was juicy apricot, fresh-squeezed lime, and intense Jolly Rancher hot pink. But there were also soft, minty pastels and easy, palette-cleansing neutrals. And the cut of each garment told the same story: Here is a woman who's strong, smart and not afraid to steal the spotlight. Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.



(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Tue, 09 Sep 2008 16:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5047504&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Notable/Quotable ]]> The Daily, often called the "Us Weekly" of Fashion Week, had an "Election 2008" issue over the weekend. The magazine dispatched a reporter to ask some fashionista-types a very important question, one they had surely never been asked before: Do you eat moose? Click to enlarge, and to see the answers.

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Tue, 09 Sep 2008 16:10:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5047419&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Marc Jacobs ]]> If you're among the people who "get" Marc Jacobs, you may love the collection he showed last night for Spring 2009. We've seen a lot of cobalt blue and yellow on the runways so far, and his show last night was no exception. But Marc Jacobs uses color — and patterns, and layering — in ways that no one else does. He creates new silhouettes, new ideas, new images, by mixing and matching familiar cues: You'll see items that look French, English, American, Asian, '80s, menswear, ladylike, soft and hard all in the same show. Maybe in the same outfit. Interesting. But is it wearable? Flattering? Fun? Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Tue, 09 Sep 2008 10:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5047175&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Moddle Behavior ]]> Dodai here. I went to three fashion shows over the weekend, and each had its own vibe, but the Patricia Field show was the most fun. After the runway presentation, the models stayed on the catwalk and started dancing. It was kind of cool to see them let loose and act like nineteen or twenty-something young girls and not the "characters" they were made up to be. I was inspired to shoot a little video of the ladies gettin' down — one was still holding the steering wheel she'd used in the show — and you'll find the clip if you click on the photo at left. (You may spy the flame-haired Patricia Field walking around in the footage, too.)

Earlier: This Weekend I Weathered A Fashion Hurricane For Rosa, Patricia & Reese

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 17:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046962&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Carolina Herrera ]]> Venezuelan-born designer Carolina Herrera has been known for her chic, international, sophisticated, lady-like ensembles since the 1980s — she even dressed Jackie Kennedy Onassis in the last 12 years of her life. For Spring 2009, Herrera does not stray from her elegant, woman-of-the-world view; these are classy gowns for classy dames. Sure, there's some Hollywood glamor thrown in, but it never turns trashy, funky or outrageous. Carolina Herrera is a Goodwill Ambassador, and these are the kind of clothes a woman can proudly meet a head of state or UN delegate in. See for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 17:10:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046929&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Peter Som ]]> Peter Som was raised in San Francisco by architect parents. But you won't find a lot of hard edges in his clothing: There's a softness in his designs, and he's known for "effortless elegance." His show today for Spring 2009 featured intense blues, some glittery metallics, and a few pieces inspired by men's shirts. The overall effect was, in a word, Pretty. One ensemble is so springtime you'll swear you smell cherry blossoms! Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 16:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046910&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ This Weekend I Weathered A Fashion Hurricane For Rosa, Patricia & Reese ]]> Saturday, as I headed to the Tent at Bryant Park for the Rosa Cha (Brazilian swimwear) show, kept looking up at the sky. Hurricane Hanna was due in New York — Fashion Week be damned! — and I was worried that my pink open-toed sandals were a bad idea. It was fairly sunny when I left my apartment, overcast when I got to 42nd Street, and once I got inside the tent it started raining so hard that people were looking up at the "ceiling" and saying things like, "How waterproof do you think this thing is?" For just a moment I thought about what would happen if the tent roof caved in and everything — the fashionistas, the Ruby Slippers on display, the plasma screens, the lights, the models, the runway, the editors, the free M&Ms — all got drenched in torrential rain. Needless to say, it'd didn't happen. But I did stand on line for 30 minutes to get the privilege of standing in the back row at the Rosa Cha show, where Noted Fashion Photographer Nigel Barker was in attendance!

Actress Zoe Saldana was next to Nigel, wearing something shimmery. They were inundated by photographers and video cameras. I'd arrived at 2:45 for the 3pm show; it was 3:35 before two men in black t-shirts and black pants peeled back the protective plastic covering on the mirrored runway. Then: Darkness. The show started. Brazilian music, white bikinis, red retro one-pieces. Lots of red and white, then some green neutrals. Oh, and black models! I especially liked one white suit with a belt of bling; the hideous brown pirate sleeved cover-up that came later, not so much. In any case, if you're the beachy sort who has a swimsuit wardrobe, this show is for you. Gallery below.

Rosa Cha:

Later that night, it was still pouring like crazy, but I was back in midtown for the Patricia Field show at the Edison Ballroom on 47th street. Her line is designed by David Dalrymple, and the scene in the ballroom was less stuffy fashion show and more fabulous downtown party. The music was loud, there was an open bar, and the crowd! It was a mix of club types, celebs and drag queens.
Andre J was there!
Also: The Legendary Lady Bunny! Seen here with an absolutely shocked Vanessa Williams. Also in attendance from Ugly Betty: Ana Ortiz and Judith Light. Project Runway's Jack Mackenroth was in the front row, across from Patricia Field herself, who was never without a drink in her hand.

I arrived at 8:45 for a 9:00 PM show and at ten minutes after 10:00, I thought it would never start. Then Becki Newton, aka Ugly Betty's Amanda walked in and sat next to Jack Mackenroth, and the show started. While the clothes were hit and miss, the presentation — each model headed to a "destination" on stage: A cruise ship, a disco, a funeral, a car race — was pretty cool. Oh, and black models! Gallery below.

David Dalrymple For Patricia Field:

Sunday morning at 11:30 AM, I was back at the Tent for the Tracy Reese show, but there were protesters outside shouting, "DKNY has got to go!" It was sort of early for blood-splattered bunny suits, but I took a picture anyway.

Tracy Reese is one of the few black designers at New York Fashion Week. Sitting in the first seat in the first row — his seat number was A:1:1 — was Andre Leon Talley. Also in the front row: Miss Jay from America's Next Top Model, wearing jeans with elaborately stitched back pockets, Fashion Week prez Fern Mallis, Sanaa Lathan, and some people I couldn't see from where I was sitting, boo. Okay, the clothes: Dreamy, romantic, soft, with sparkle and beading. The trench coats were beautiful, in supersoft-looking fabrics, and there were some dresses with delicate fabric flowers or frothy appliqués that just looked heavenly. Looking at the pictures later, not everything looks as good as it did in person, but I liked the overall feel and mood.

Tracy Reese:

All in all, despite the weather, it was a typical fashion week experience: Lots of standing around waiting, some clothes, some booze, some celebrities. I don't know how the rest of the designers are faring, but I saw diverse runways at all three shows — Tracy Reese has always used Asian, black and white models. We'll see if this first weekend was a sign of things to come or if it all goes downhill from here.

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 14:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046777&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Alexandre Herchcovitch ]]> If you're jonesing for the bite of something more experimental and decidedly less pretty, perhaps you'll cotton to Alexandre Herchcovitch's exercise in perverse volume. Risky, sure: think a lot of khaki mixed with silk charmeuse, novel shapes and a serious mix of textures. Wearable? Not so much. But a few of these deets, judiciously used, will feel truly fresh come spring. Others will just feel like a linebacker's uniform made of a big ol' mess of butcher paper.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 13:20:00 EDT Sadie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046589&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: DKNY ]]> Bright and bold were the keywords for the DKNY Spring 2009 collection, shown on Sunday morning. Cobalt blue mini skirts? A dress with a lime bustier, rosy cummerbund and a black skirt? Yes. These are not clothes for wallflowers and shrinking violets. But! Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 12:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046484&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Abaeté ]]> Laura Poretzky started her label, Abaeté (her family name, which means "person of virtue") in 2004. It has quickly gained recognition thanks to a mix of girly dresses, tough skirts and a decidedly downtown vibe. Her Spring 2009 collection was shown on Saturday afternoon. The Abaeté vision for spring sticks to the "typical" Easter-egg palette: pale blue, soft pink, bright yellow — but with some choppy seersucker dresses and clingy black '80s skirts thrown in. Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 11:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046338&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Rubin Singer ]]> Some of the things Rubin Singer showed for Spring 2009 (on Friday night) were gorgeous: Flowing, dramatic works of art. Others? Weird, quirky, puzzling, and, in the case of a striped dress with wings on the hips, flat-out bad. Singer, who comes from a "dynasty" of Russian fashion designers and debuted his collection at New York Fashion Week in February 2007, is capable of creating some divine dresses. But a few ensembles were practically disastrous. Judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 10:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046491&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: Erin Fetherston ]]> Erin Fetherston grew up in the Bay Area before moving to Paris to study design. She's a relative newcomer, since her first collection debuted in 2005, but with celeb friends like Kirsten Dunst and Zooey Deschanel — not to mention last year's collaboration with Target — Fetherston is quickly becoming a household name. Her runway show was Friday night. For Spring 2009, Fetherston showed filmy, feminine garments in pale, pastel colors and whisper-sheer fabrics that looked as light as, well, you know. (Click the photo at left for a gallery; then click any picture to start the show.)

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Mon, 08 Sep 2008 09:20:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046486&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Model Behaviors ]]> Designer Tracy Reese is in a Wall Street Journal video discussing the lack of diversity on the runways. "I think young people… If they only see one idea of beauty, that gives them an awful self-image, it's like, 'The world doesn't accept me the way I am.'" She also says "I don't think we should deal in people like they're commodities, or they're trends… Everybody has something, whether you're a model or a regular woman walking down the street. I'm always interested in that thing that makes you unique." [WSJ]

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Fri, 05 Sep 2008 17:30:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5045840&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show ]]> Fashion week has begun, and ladies aren't the only ones getting presented a new vision for fall: There are a few designers showing for men today. Perry Ellis (designed by John Crocco) pictures Spring 2009 as a parade of plaid shirts, seersucker suits and pink shorts. Would any guys you know dress like this? (Click the photo at left for a gallery of selected looks.)

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Fri, 05 Sep 2008 14:40:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5046058&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion Show: It Is So ON ]]> And...it's started. The tents, the stars, the parties, the models, the hoopla, the absurdity, the agony, the ecstasy. Not the election season, silly, it's New York Fashion Week! Yes, this first show might be BCBG Max Azria, but we gotta work up to the big stuff. And even if it's not the most innovative line in the world — as usual it's drapey and cruise-ready — BCBG is one of the few fashion week shows that will actually be coming to a Mall Near You, so this ain't just theory, kids. To the tents! (Click on the pic to view a gallery of selected looks.)





(Click on any image to begin gallery)

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Fri, 05 Sep 2008 13:40:00 EDT Sadie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5045974&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ I Think I Hate Fashion Week ]]> So, Fashion Week is on. And last night I went to my first Fashion Week party. And it was kind of the worst experience ever. I should say that I was not, as it happens, attending this function in a journalistic capacity: rather, because my boyfriend is friends with "the band" who was playing the event (which was sponsored by a car and had something to do with designers) we were on their list, which all sounded very awesome on paper. This being my first Fashion Week party, I planned my outfit with care. Attired in a silver sheath sweater dress, white patent pumps, an asymmetrical coiffure and, the piece de resistance, an extremely frumpy gold glasses chain (to show I was fashionable, you see), I felt ready to take on New York.

The party was somewhere on the far West Side, a part of town known for clubs and velvet ropes. When we got there, it became clear that the allegedly "exclusive" event was, in fact, apparently open to everyone in the city plus tourists from a few dozen countries, all milling around and shouting about being on various lists while officious PAs and menacing bouncers screamed conflicting directions. Someone told us there were "fire code issues" and no one else could get in. Someone else said there was only one line and to get into it. Someone who was also "with the band" told us to stand on the sidewalk where a PA screamed at me to move. We ran into the bassist's girlfriend, who was carrying a pair of pants and looking befuddled. Someone took the pants from her and promised to deliver them backstage, but she couldn't come in. Some manager from the band tried to get us behind some other, apparently better rope but someone cut me off before they closed the rope and I was left standing on the sidewalk, where a very large bouncer shoved me very hard and I flew several feer and crashed into a group of blondes teetering in high heels. Someone talked to someone and I was let behind the rope with a few hundred people, including some bloggers, an elaborately-dressed group of Japanese fashionistas and a minor character from Gossip Girl. We stood behind the rope in our pen for an hour. Intermittently the bouncer let models or rich people in and laughed and flirted with them, then told us behind the rope that they were at capacity and they didn't care if we were on the band's list.

When they finally decided to let people in, the band's set was over. So we left and got Thai food. A bag lady complimented my glasses chain.

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Fri, 05 Sep 2008 13:00:00 EDT Sadie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5045919&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Will Diversity Be In Style During Fashion Week? ]]> Fashion week kicks off tomorrow, and one thing we'll have our eye on is how many models of color make it on to the runways. New York's Daily News is also wondering if the media attention on the lack of diversity will make an impact on this season's shows. Reporter Patrick Huguenin interviewed several designers, and some seem optimistic: "I was pleasantly surprised this year," says Tracy Reese. "All the talk about it has made the agencies feel freer to show their whole portfolio. For a while there, it was one-note and now they might show a range that goes beyond what people might ask for." Designer Pamella Roland agrees: "Model casting has actually been easier this season," she says. But what about Jill Stuart, who was among the designers who did not use a single black, Latina or Asian model last season?

Writes Huguenin:

[Jill Stuart] Company CEO Ron Curtis blamed a dearth of choices, and noted that two of the most popular black models, Jourdan Dunn and Liya Kebede, had been pursued for the show but booked for Calvin Klein in a competing time slot. "Of course we always try to have a diverse cast," Curtis says of this season's show. "but it isn't completed, so we really don't have a confirmation before the show, as things can change up until showtime."

Well that doesn't sound promising. (In stark contrast: menswear designer Carlos Campos will debut his women's collection with a lineup of all black models on Monday.) Simon Doonan joins those who want to see more diversity; he thinks it's more important than thin models. "The archetypes are extremely thin, but that will change," he says. "A much bigger issue is why they're not using more African-American girls."

Meanwhile, the struggle continues. "I saw about 400 girls, again, as I do every year," says Roger Padilha, creative director of MAO PR. "My exact number was 378, from 10 agencies. And of those girls, I'd say that I saw about eight black girls. Some… were not very good, so it isn't like I really have eight black girls to choose from. I have about three or four that made it into my 'yes' pile. So it's frustrating."

Sometimes when we call attention to the lack of minorities on the runways, a reader inevitably comments something like: "What does it matter? It's the designer's vision. Maybe his or her vision is of a leggy blonde." Just a reminder: It matters because fashion is global. The world looks to New York as a fashion leader. It matters because you shouldn't be not hired for a job because of the color of your skin. It matters because the world makes no sense if a black man can run for president but a black woman can't be seen wearing Jill Stuart on a catwalk.

Issues Of Race And Ethnicity Follow The Runway During Fashion Week [NY Daily News]
Simon Doonan: Lack of Diversity on the Runways Is a Bigger Problem Than Thin Models [NY Mag]

Earlier: On The Runways Of Milan, Color Just Wasn't Considered Chic
Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways

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Thu, 04 Sep 2008 13:00:00 EDT Dodai http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=5045431&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion editors do good! The minimum age ... ]]> jakmodel041108.jpgFashion editors do good! The minimum age for runway modeling at Australian fashion week has been raised to 16-years old for both males and females. The setting of a minimum age developed after editors at Australian Vogue and Marie Claire threatened to pull coverage of the event after the organizers of the fashion week had decided to make 14-year-old Monika Jagaciak its star. The 16-year-old age limit is not new to fashion weeks across the world: London, Sao Paolo, and Paris fashion weeks have similar restrictions. Now, if only they got more women of different ethnicities and body types walking the shows and in the magazines then we would be out of a job. [Reuters]

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Fri, 11 Apr 2008 15:30:00 EDT maria http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=378889&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ P. Diddy's Speech Is More Creative Than His Fashion ]]> Did you happen to catch If I Were King on MTV the other night? If you didn't, you missed out. If I Were King a documentary about P. Diddy designing his fall collection for Sean John to show at Fashion Week, and it's sort of amazing how dramatic it is — although "operatic" is more like it. P. Diddy takes himself extremely seriously, though it's hard for anyone else to do the same, since he uses the word "fabrication" when talking about the fabrics that he wants to use. Above, a clip of the best shit he said.

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Fri, 11 Apr 2008 13:00:00 EDT Tracie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=378836&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ Fashion PR Lady Kelly Cutrone Is So Boss ]]> Kelly Cutrone is the owner of fashion PR company People's Revolution, where Whitney from The Hills is now working. This weekend, MTV ran a documentary about Fashion Week following Kelly and her assistant Stefanie as they prepared for the fall shows, and we got a glimpse at how super awesome she is. First of all, our hats are off to anyone who successfully works in fashion, yet cares more about the work than the fashion. Kelly's style is akin to the "blogger's look": No bra, no makeup, baggy shirts, tired face, and hair so dirty it looks wet. She seems like a tough boss, but appreciative just the same. Clip above.

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Mon, 07 Apr 2008 19:00:00 EDT Tracie http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=377079&view=rss&microfeed=true
<![CDATA[ "Why Karlie Kloss And Not Me?" (And Other Pretty Little Headscratchers) ]]> karliekloss2.jpg

Don't get us wrong, our anonymous model Tatiana has had a busy couple weeks. (Europe! Magazine photo shoots! The private satisfaction of being anonymously "famous" on the internet!) But in a business where nothing is real (except hunger pangs) she sometimes finds herself pondering the age-old question, how IS it that some of these girls get so fucking famous? Exhibit A: Karlie Kloss (left). The young Texan is suddenly the Most Famous Person In Modeling. And in fashion, if you're not talking about how great she is, you're drunkenly wondering aloud to your friends what the fuck is so great about her. This and other pressing Modelslips questions, answered by Jezebel's most symmetrically-featured contributor, after the jump.

The crush of castings and shows taking place in my temporary European home has obliterated my sense of narrative/grip on objective reality. To be recovered post-fashion week, when I can think again? I've had a full head of makeup applied and wiped off four times in the last 24 hours, entire bottles of Elnett have been applied to and then brushed out of my locks, and even my favorite heels have given my gnarled hooves blisters that tingle as I type. But — even though I come to you without a coherent anecdote to relay, I still had your handy questions to occupy my mind. What do professional models think of Miss Tyra and her cyclic night-time T.V. series? How do you get the most from a client who's paying in clothes? Sweatshops: do they weigh on anyone's conscience in fashion-land? And what's up with those agencies and their wacky commissions? That's what I'm here for!




From "squeakel":
Anyway, Tatiana, since you brought up the subject of established models, maybe you can answer something I've wondered for ages. What's so different about the girls who become successful? Why do these particular girls get so much buzz? I've seen so many workaday models who seem just as beautiful and compelling as the more famous ones.

If I knew that, I'd found an agency and get rich! I do know that it involves buzz, and often a crucial meeting with one casting director. Douglas Perrett, for example. Or Russell Marsh. Katie Grand, a stylist, has done a lot for Rachel Clark's career.

Sometimes, people just sort of fill a niche that seems to be lacking. Exhibit Karlie Kloss, the undisputed model of the moment. She is 15. She used to model for Macy's inserts. That is supposed to be a no-no. Ha!

kkloss3.jpgShe's American.



kkloss2.jpgShe's the anti-Agyness.



kkloss1.jpgAnd yet, she is Agyness.


I met a photographer for Dazed and Confused during New York Fashion Week who told me that I was "too pretty" to work shows. (There are definitely girls who only surface during show season, nab every booking, and then disappear while the rest of us slog off to catalog jobs and magazine edits. Given how poorly paid shows are I have no idea how they eat; but it's true that they tend to be the weirder-looking models.) Whatever; I took it as a compliment.

From "ericablue":
I am completely fascinated by "paid in trade". Do you get to choose what you want? Do you keep what you are wearing? What if it is hideous?

Payment in trade can happen many ways, always at the designer's discretion. You might get a simple gift card, or an invitation to the showroom (which means you might have access to samples and next season's line). Other times someone will hand you a Mystery Bag as you leave, and you inside will find a t-shirt and a jar of face cream. Once I received a set of temporary acrylic nails, and self-adhesive nail diamantes.

Incidentally: I know one of the girls who dyed their hair blue for Marc Jacobs two seasons ago. She got a handbag. Jacobs has yet to book her for any subsequent show.

From "PhillyLass":
So, for those shows that pay cash money, what happens to the clothes? They can't sell them, can they? So, who gets to snag them?

It's one of the persistent mysteries of fashion. Some houses keep runway samples because they are the only extant iterations of their nascent lines, and they will become production prototypes. Some keep them to send to magazines for editorials. Some keep them just because — in which case you might be able to bat your eyelids and flatter and beg for a gorgeous pair of shoes or a dress you know you'd totally rock. I tend to have good luck with shoes. When they're a designer's own, and not some random borrowed/sponsored pair, you can often get some person with a headset to say "Just take them..."

I think, very occasionally, samples survive being weeded-out by grabby models, editors, and design team underlings long enough to get rounded up and sold in actual sample sales.

From "hammerimissu":
What a waste. Why are you in this industry if you admit its vacant and abuses human life via sweat shops and people who pay up the twat for "knockoff of something old" clothes.

I understand that this was more of a rhetorical gesture than a question, but it's still a sentiment I think about. Often.

The thing is, I don't believe fashion is "vacant", or at least that it's not always and necessarily so. I've met makeup artists with law degrees, refugee-from-academia stylists, and editors with genuine booksmarts. Miuccia Prada is a political science Ph.D.; I defy anyone to call her an intellectual slouch. There is creative talent housed in the rarefied echelons of high fashion — whether it's embodied by the sample sewer who apprenticed for seven years to get her padstitching up to couture standards, the designer who dreams about Proust and ancient Greece and the use of lustre in Islamic pottery, or the critical mind who parses these labors for the public. I refuse to be told that caring about fashion is for stupid women. In fact, I think that the main reason fashion is not always considered intellectually respectable is because it's largely run by, and concerns, women. Modeling is one of the few areas where women out-earn men: if I'm stupid for participating in it, I'd be far dumber to turn it down.

Not every label is run by competent, interesting, sharp-minded people. And there are plenty of commercially successful lines where the folks in charge are utterly craven. But I do meet people in this industry who have more stamps on their passports than a squad of diplomatic attachés, and who can talk about art or ancient Egypt or Italian cooking (in several fluent languages!) as well as they can hemlines.

I don't have an answer to the sweat shops. The raises-all-boats theory is crap; the economics of an industry that plucks some girls from third-world countries out of poverty and into something like fame, at the same time as it indirectly employs hundreds of thousands of other third-world girls at starvation wages, are difficult for me to weigh in on. The apparel industry has long been marked by inequality, and even a kind of systematized woman-on-woman economic violence: Victorian mill girls and garment workers also worked in underpaid and dangerous conditions to make finery for fabulously wealthy women. For all I know, so did the women who made the Roman senators' wives their purple-edged stolas.

When you buy an overpriced designer dress, at least you know that in addition to paying for the brand's imputed "value", and its marketing, and all the rest of that crap, you're also paying for centuries-old Italian silk mills to stay in business, and for retirement benefits for sewers who live middle-class lives in France. When you buy a knockoff or a chain-store cheapie, you're probably just propping up Chinese sweatshops (unless it was made in Cambodia, in which case: buy mall offerings early and often!). Not that I can manage to avoid chain stores on my earnings.

From "pisces":
How do girls break into the industry?

You meet an agency scout who takes an interest. Other tried-and-true methods include sending Polaroids to an agency, or attending an open call. Whatever you do, do not go on America's Next Top Model. Avoid modeling scams like Barbizon, John Robert Powers, and John Casablancas. And don't pay for professional "portfolio" pictures when you don't have an agency.

From "NotEvenSlightly":
Have you watched America's Next Top Model, and if so, does any of the advice and training they give have anything to do with being a working model? I prefer to think that Tyra is just crazed with power, obvs, but would like to hear your take on it.

Well, the funny thing about all the "woe is ANTM it's nothing like real modeling" bullshit is that the whole premise of the show just apes the industry practice of sending newly signed models on what're called test shoots — imitation editorials where you and the photographer get to keep the resulting images for your respective books. Of course, most test shoots involve zero-to-minimal hair and makeup, clothes from the stylist's closet (or things she's purchased to return at the shoot's end), plain studio backgrounds and/or simple outdoor settings. Not the prosthetic-nosed, race-switching, body-painted, couture-dress-wearing, Photoshopped, elaborately wigged, bizarro images ANTM challenges — God bless Ken Mok! — bring into this world. Never once have I had to walk on a rotating catwalk, or pose on a treadmill as if I were running from the fashion ghoul as embodied by Miss Jay, or make myself look like a crime victim, without "actually just look[ing] dead." But it's a fun bit of escapism.

From "dingosmom1":
Do the models have to pay all their airfare and rent, trainfare? If not, do their agents negotiate it for them? I read that agency fees in Paris are 70%, it seems you'd be paying to model if you also had to pay living expenses. It also seems the agency should earn their keep somehow!

Yes, we pay all our own expenses. And agencies have zero incentive to make your travel or living costs any cheaper than necessary: each day you stay in a given market doesn't cost them anything, but there's a chance you might work, and if you do, they'll get a cut. Agencies are also known to shamelessly overcharge on rent for the models' apartments they own (think five models sharing a 1BRM, spending $30-$40/night each), as well as for deducting mysteriously large sums for things like "photocopying" and messenger fees. That plus the fact that my last magazine editorial, which was shot for a Hearst-owned title you've probably read, paid me the stunning daily rate of 124.17 Euros (before agency commission!) means I eat a lot of pasta-and-pesto. I'm in debt to my agencies in two out of three European markets right now; I'm in the black in L.A. and New York City. It's an uneasy feeling.

Models need a friggin' union. Or Carmen Kass!

From "imnotsureibelievethis":
i guess my main question is: why are you anonymous? I'm a bit of a skeptic; mainly because of my own experiences in this vapid business, full of "girls" who go to casting after casting without a thought passing through. [...] I guess my main question is: where were the Tatiana's when I was working? It would have been a much less lonely job.

I'm anonymous because I fear professional repercussions. How would it benefit me to crow about having attended university, however briefly, or having read a given book or seen a movie? There are some people who just don't want to hear that from a model, and unfortunately they bear on my career. So I generally tell people I started modeling out of high school — it's simpler — and if I run into one of those assholes who likes to drop oh-so-obscure literary references around the unlettered models, I'll try and parry them back just to see the look on his face (it's nearly always a he).

Agencies and clients tend to like models young and pliant. I wouldn't book jobs because of this column, so I'm going to do my best to keep my identity a secret.

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Thu, 28 Feb 2008 16:40:00 EST Moe http://jezebel.com/index.php?op=postcommentfeed&postId=362022&view=rss&microfeed=true