<![CDATA[Jezebel: fashion week september 2007]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: fashion week september 2007]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/fashionweekseptember2007 http://jezebel.com/tag/fashionweekseptember2007 <![CDATA[Dear Interns: When We Think Of You We'll Think Of Barf, Always]]>
Now that fashion week is finally, finally over, we must thank our interns, who toiled tirelessly, stuffing limited-edition Jezebel barf bags full of Ex-Lax and tongue depressors, incurred the wrath of Jonathan Van Meter's sister and generally made the Jezebel virtual HQ at the Algonquin Hotel a place of giggles. Thank you (left to right) Diane Kagoyire, Margaret "Mags" Crow, and Henrietta Nellman, as well as Maria Suarez and Stephanie Hodges (not pictured). A round of applause, please: They made it out alive!

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<![CDATA[Snap Judgment: Our Fashion Week Photogs Were Awesome]]> Fashion Week just wouldn't be Fashion Week without lots of boozing, interminable waits for shows to start, barf bags, and fabulous photography. In addition to Gawker Media's own Nikola Tamindzic, we were lucky enough to have secured the services of photographers Danielle Ezzo and Brad Walsh, along with the production skills of Briana Heard, who, though mostly stuck in the hotel room we rented, took a few photographs herself. At left, a stellar shot that Nikola took of French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld, whom he spotted outside the Rodarte show and described as looking "so dirty, you just know she's a big perv." (One-track mind, that guy.) After the jump, some of Danielle, Brad and Briana's best pics.

Models at Chris Benz:
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A model at John Varvatos:
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Our "barf bag" girls, Dina & Levon:
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<![CDATA[Fashion Week: A Look Back At The Week That Swallowed Our Souls]]> The Algonquin Round Table was a storied group of writers, actors and assorted "wits" who would meet to drink and tell jokes probably described as "ribald" at Manhattan's Algonquin Hotel, which was, incidentally, the site of the Jezebel Fashion Week command center. Imbued with a sense of our own lofty places in history, we decided to hold our own Algonquin Round Table on the last night of Fashion Week, during which we decided that anyone involved in the historic Algonquin Round Table would have skipped Fashion Week, because as Dorothy Parker once wrote, the Round Table was all about shit that you could crack easy jokes about, not convey painful truths through.


The truth of Fashion Week is that it is PAINFUL speaking those truths over and over again to a bunch of people who are too wrapped up in their Coco Rocha sightings to get it through their heads that: Fashion is housework that was elevated somehow to "art" thanks only to the money that rich people are willing to fork out concealing the true extent of their vanity; and elevated to "commerce" worthy of a somewhat hyped seasonal trade show through the simple materialist dialectic that goes like this: If you build new wants, they will throw out last year's babydoll dress and shell out the Amex to buy them.

But if you accept these basic truths — and that you are powerless to do anything about them — you can soothe your remaining naive disillusionment at Fashion Week with one of those free drinks they serve you in exchange for your willingness to be a pawn in the complex demand-creation engine they have built and bask in the absurdity of some photographer — who isn't even on TV, or maybe he is, but who isn't these days — expecting you to know who the fuck he is. Look, they have wine, beer, champagne, bourbon, vodka, gin, even bitters! (To add a "healthy" splash to that vodka tonic consoling what ails you). Or you can do like other attendees, and soothe your disillusionment with:

Scarf (Custo)
Diamond Timex watch (eBay/Cynthia Rowley party)
Red BlackBerry Pearl, won at GenArt
$50 Lord & Taylor gift certificate (Rodarte)
Rodarte branded candle (Rodarte)
"Late Spring" Criterion Collection DVD (Rodarte)
Snoopy Sno Cone machine, book, journal, umbrella (Snoopy show)
Arrojo hair care products (Frank Tell)
Assouline book, Rumeur perfume (Lanvin lunch)
2 bottles of Izze fruit soda, 2-3 CDs, Skin care products (GenArt)
In case you were wondering, that's the swag Jennie was given over the course of the week. Interestingly, she had mostly positive feelings to report from the shows, which she attended with a vigor and zeal I envied. Which brings up an interesting point: Am I just a bitter Marxist because I am lazy? I showed up for everything late, because, let's face it guys, I shouldn't quit the day job here.
dodaime.jpgWhich brings me to another point: we all have to have jobs, and some of have to have to have jobs that involve the fashion industry, and the economy relies on human interactions, the likes of which we rarely have because we sit at home blogging all day, and the best part was just hanging out with other people for once. Dodai and Intern Maria and I drank about a fifth of gin in the Algonquin lobby after missing our respective shows, Jennie and Nikola and I shared brunch and our awe over the beauty of the Malandrino show and special assignment interns Margaret, Diane, Maria S. and Henrietta shared a lot of hungover laughter while assembling our barf bags and discussing the upcoming election. And speaking of which, it's about time to hand over the reins to my fellow Lezebels [Except me, because I just don't feel like writing. -Ed.] and hear what they have to say about the week that was:

Dodai: I went into Fashion Week excited and hopeful, and came out on the other side exhausted, somewhat jaded and with foot pain. I also had PMS, but that's another story. All the registering, invitations and confirmations lead to a lot of standing in line waiting for the privilege to stand up while watch the runway shows. Many times I was given "standing room priority," which meant that I could be one of the first people to stand — and often lead to a seat. But generally I felt like I had to prove I supposed to be there, even while holding an invitation in my hand, even after Jennifer had informed me that I was "confirmed." Unless you're involved in Fashion Week, you may not realize that seeing a show is often 2 HOURS of frenzy for 15 minutes of show. It's like waiting in line for a rollercoaster. Most of the time there's a general sense that it's going to be fun — and worth it — but sometimes it definitely felt like much ado about nothing. I appreciate that for the designers and the PR houses, it's more like four MONTHS of work for 15 minutes of show, but as a person who was just trying to do her job — get into the show and report on what I saw — I felt judged, measured and ranked every step of the way, even at the parties. Part of this is just the beast of New York, but part of it is the "are you 'important' or not" attitude the majority of the people involved have. As far as the clothes go, I enjoyed them the most when they were fun (Baby Phat/KLS, Betsey Johnson). I was thankful that I had the pleasure of going to shows before every single model was skeletal. When I saw Naomi Campbell walk for Rosa Chá years ago, she was a vision of health and energy; strutting and prancing like a thoroughbred racehorse, superhuman. The models at the Rosa Cha show this year seemed bored and gray from nutrition deficiency. What I did love was having the room at The Algonquin — being able to step away from the hurricane of activity into a quiet space steeped in oak, Dorothy Parker quotes, and a "hotel cat." I felt like I was part of something bigger, as a woman writing in New York, and that made me happy. The Algonquin rules.

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Jennie: With the right attitude, I think you can talk your way into most things. But, as fashion week proved, "I'm on the list" is a line that works way more often than it should. Not as often as I would've liked, mind you, but more than it should; enough to score me a spot backstage at Rodarte and Malandrino, which were two of the highlights of my week. Rodarte is thoughtful, artful fashion at its best: It's conceptual, but not unrecognizable. And I still can't stop talking about the marvel of sitting there and seeing dresses float by that look like they were made from clouds.

Another show that had me gaga was Chris Benz, genius up-and-comer extraordinaire. It was the perfect fusion of fashion as "fashion" (something artful, something rooted in ideas and narrative) and the practical: Working with the most recognizable of forms (slouchy pants, drop-waisted dresses, the loafer!), he dipped these everyday objects into the most explosive neon palette you could possibly imagine. The end result was breathtaking. I felt like Dorothy stepping into Technicolor for the very first time, but better! Because in my Oz, Benz's Oz, the munchkins were in fact models who were costumed as the bastard lovechildren of Annie Hall and Jay Gatsby. This is what fashion should be.

And Catherine Malandrino! She to me, much like Behnaz Sarafpour, has always embodied for me the essence of the smart chick. Malandrino clothes are all about being a woman: Not a small girl, but a hormone-raging, food-eating, emotion-feeling, boob-and-hips-clad woman. She is probably the only designer I can think of whose clothes look better on "real" people than on models. You gotta have a booty to wear her clothes — thank god! And her use of color was such a relief — so saturated and refreshing and alive — it reminded me why I love fashion. Unfortunately, the models on display at most of the shows reminded me why I don't always love fashion too: Everyone knows that models are thin, but it's not until you see them up close that you realize how shocking their bodies are. Uncostumed, they are terrifying; no one can see a model up close and aspire to that sort of physical form.

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<![CDATA[Zac Posen, Donna Karan, Heatherette: The Critics "Speak"]]>

It's shocking, we know, but some people take Fashion Week really, really seriously. Designers shudder and quake in anticipation as the world's top "fashion journalists" pull out their best and most pretentious purple prose reviewing the Spring/Summer 2008 collections. In our final primer on what the major critics" have to say about the shows at New York Fashion Week, we've got Zac Posen, Heatherette, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Betsey Johnson. First up, red-carpet favorite Zac Posen drops a touch of 'Little House on the Prairie' onto the runway.

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"out of his hood", "straining", "[model] looked as if she were pulling a plow", "Just about everything... was off", "heaviness of the layers", "pointless details", "prairie frou-frou", "old hat" — Cathy Horyn, NY Times


"lacks...restraint", "inspired by Pilgrims, Amish, Mennonites and Shaker", "restraint was positively mandatory", "at his best with his day wear", "flirtatious white ruffles", "expressed a sweet exuberance" — Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"unlikely inspirations", "big-sky romance", "a softness that his more overtly sexy work lacks", "strayed into dangerous pastures", "as poufy as storm-whipped clouds", "more than a little showy", "a country no-no" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com

"vaguely safari", "smart, modern and controlled", "a lack of restraint is his biggest problem", "his greatest indulgence is the big, splashy finish", "more like the twilight zone" —WWD

"short and sweet", "endearing youthfulness", "wheat sheaves shaped as crystal brooches", "rural spirit", "puffy with volume", "thoughtful" — Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"evoked the wheat fields of the Great Plains", "dramatic beauty of the wind-tossed, open sky", "hand-painted and shadow-dyed", "bold and dramatic as a thunder-clap", "shot with lightning shafts of colour and extravagant shapes" — Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph

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"fun", "surefire", "the models look like wayward brides in a sort of backward couture show", "big red-white-and-blue dose of Americana", "picnic-table print", "Wearable? Sure, a little" — Meenal Mistry, Style.com

"send-up of the U.S. of A.", "delightful high-energy romp", "wasn't all over-the-top camp", "their share of wacky red, white and blue getups", "some chic - and no less whimsical".— WWD

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"classy halter and shirt-dresses", "waist was the focus", "flattering", "recalled... women airing themselves on their stoops on a hot summer night, usually within sight of a man in an undershirt" — Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"women as urban warriors", "had the feel of an urban princess", "more comfortable in a garden setting than surrounded by the city's concrete and steel" — Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"worked both sides of the structure/flow divide", "portrait collars", "crisp, breezy", "confident sensuality", "the silhouette was lean and languid or full", "arabesques of silk ribbon" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com


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"petticoated party dresses dashed with decorations like sprinkles on a cupcake", "sequins, hearts, laces, and lamé", "deliberate act of indulgence", "huge crinolines", "Empire waists and daisies". — Laird Borrelli-Persson, Style.com

"cacophony of tulle", "no one does a party dress like Johnson", "sparkly", "polkadots and stripes galore", "pink-and-yellow paisley playsuits", 'downright patriotic", "modern-day sailor jumpsuits", "frocks didn't seem to vary much style-wise". — WWD

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"a job well done", "will gain more meaning with time", "breezy", "egg-wash shades", "the hemlines of the dresses might have been better shorter", "all the models in the show were white", "seems out of touch" — Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"equivalent of a sexy whisper", "austere", "unforgiving fabrics", "faintest gray shadings", "sensuous drape", "its strength was in the purity of the design" — Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"spare, clean canvas", "wasn't enough", "quiet repetitiveness", "minimalist in the style of old-school Calvin" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com

"shimmer of silk", "subtle shades of sea and river water", "exceptional", "succeeded in reigniting minimalism", "modern and relevant" — Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

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<![CDATA[As my brotha from another motha, photographer...]]> As my brotha from another motha, photographer Nikola Tamindzic says, "I am Eurotrash: By default I love Custo!" We couldn't have said it better ourselves. The prints. The colors. All that sparkle. None of it seemed to match. But Nikola (and I suppose his Eurotrash brethren) didn't seem to care. When you can't beat 'em, join... No, I just can't do it. No sparkly pants for me. Sorry, kids.

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<![CDATA[It must be difficult to be Zac Posen, feeling...]]> It must be difficult to be Zac Posen, feeling the weight of being constantly told that the entire fate of American fashion rests on your young shoulders. As Marc Jacobs becomes downright establishment, Posen is the face, the voice, and the spirit of young American fashion. And last night's Spring/Summer 2008 collection shown at Bryant Park certainly captured that vibe: Black, white, and khaki dominated the first half of the show, with many looks unexpectedly invoking a sort of prairie chic. (Anyone else having fantasies of seeing Chloe Sevigny's character go back into credit card debt on Big Love buying all those long skirts and jackets?!) And although the evening looks were less well-done then the day ones, all in all, we conclude that the state of the union is just fine.

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<![CDATA[The Heatherette fashion show was really more...]]> The Heatherette fashion show was really more like a party with a parade in the middle. Plus, some of the most interesting outfits were on the guests! Things kicked off with a performance by Lil' Mama and then the models — black girls! a plus-sized girl! fey boys and hunks! kids! a tranny and a porn star! — charged the runway at a fast clip, looking like they were having a great time despite shredded, tattered, bizarre and often confusing clothes. Below, check out highlights from designers Richie Rich and Traver Rains' celebration of individuality. And don't forget to play spot-the-celeb-in-the-front-row: Diddy, Lance Bass and Bijou Phillips attended.

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<![CDATA[Another Fucking Fashion Label Sues Forever 21]]> Another day, another moneyed clothing company files a copyright infringement suit against Forever 21, offering YET ANOTHER CHANCE for me to defend a store I don't even like simply on the grounds that the blend of fashion industry bombast and incomprehensible waste of time is just such a tantalizing tardorama. Today, Anthropologie is the infringed plaintiff. That's added to Gwen Stefani, Diane Von Furstenberg, Bebe and Anna Sui, who, on Monday, printed up a batch of cheesy "Forever Wanted" T-shirts with the words "'Thou shalt not steal'; Exodus 20:15," at the bottom, a "sly" reference to the Forever 21 founders' Christian beliefs that made me want to hurl because, hello, if you're going to bring Jesus into this, you might think for a moment on that old parable about the rich man and the eye of the needle being threaded by the impoverished sweatshop worker sewing all those deleterious violations of intellectual property, and how much time that laborer would have to spend in the factory to bring home one of Anna Sui's lawyers' billable hours.

But hey, don't take it from me, because a new documentary, "Made In L.A.," is coming to a PBS station near you that will make my point. It's about exploited immigrant workers at Forever 21-contracted sweatshops, and their struggle to win better wages and working conditions for themselves, even staking out the Forever 21 founder's house, which reminds you that he happens to live in the same city as the workers making his clothes, which is how they can turn out those knockoffs so quickly, which cannot be said for Anthropologie or Bebe, which brings us to the parable about casting stones or something. The end. Though we suspect this one-sided blog debate could continue Forever.

Anthropologie Sues Forever 21 Over Copyright [Reuters]
Related: Designer Sues [NY Post]
Gwen Stefani Sues Forever 21 [MSNBC]
Vigilante Justice [WWD]

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<![CDATA[Throw bows, polka dots, ruffles, glitter...]]> Throw bows, polka dots, ruffles, glitter and miles and miles of tulle into a blender and you'll get the frothy concoction of yesterday's Betsey Johnson show. According to the program (which we didn't look at until after the show, whoops!), the prom-inspired looks were organized by decades: 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and 2000s. And mostly, the strapless dresses and cheeky bloomers just celebrated being unabashedly girly. Check out the audience, the candy colored confections — and Betsey's cartwheel! — below.

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<![CDATA[Marc Jacobs: Brilliant? Or A Bomb? The Critics "Speak"]]>

We shop at Forever 21, so maybe we're not the best judges of what's new, fresh, of-the-moment (and other 'Lucky'-isms) in fashion. We have a few Marc Jacobs items, but they were on clearance at Century 21 and probably from five years ago, so that's why we've let the critics speak about the fashion darling's show the other night — you know, the one that started two hours late, and pissed off a bunch of people, including 'Vogue' editor Anna Wintour.

"Bad, sad show", "everything that is wrong with current fashion", "lost in a dark and none-too-original vision of vintage clothes", "only a cute bag... had a charming affect", "even the most eccentric antiques shopper could do better", "nothing here to take fashion forward", "a freak's costume party" — Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"...expressed perfectly the dislocating values of our culture", "an antidote to the cartoonish Jessica Rabbit sexuality", "stripped-down dresses to break the hold of flagrant sexiness", "erotic", "respectful of women", "beautiful, as well as realistic", "deal openly and imaginatively with sexuality without exploiting it". — Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"...could have used a little more time", "on their own, individual elements... were very attractive", "wearable clothes wasn't the point here", "clothes appropriate for warmer weather", "color-blocking, sheer overlays, sequins", "nude and natural colors with bright pops" — Samantha Critchell, Washington Post

"Extraordinary", "off-kilter and knock-your-socks-off", "a bonkers surrealist streak", "transparency was a key theme", "Gimmicky? You bet. But also fascinating", "gawky and awkward", "provocative", "sublime performance was about sex", "couldn't look away" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com

"a pseudo-Surrealist stab at fashion", "too-big shoes, raw seams, ugly juxtapositions of table-cloth plastic and metallic lace in virulent hues", "unfinished, underwear-exposing", "the height of designer-label luxury", "failed to impress" — Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph

"not his strongest, but still, it was great", "a succession of mad hair, mad shoes, kooky glasses and zany clothes", "all wasted, batty church secretary in 1953", "rejoices...in the weird and wonderful moments that make dressing unique" — Amy Larocca, NY Mag

"fairy-tale farce", "inventive layerings", "brilliantly fantastical", "will dazzle all as brightly in their retail incarnations", "haute florals and adorable animalia", "hussy sheers", "a delightfully costumed experimental sexcapade". — WWD

Earlier: Marc Jacobs Channels 'Grey Gardens'? We Beg To Differ
WaPo Fashion Critic Robin Givhan's Dog Molests Shoes; Marc Jacobs Is To Blame


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<![CDATA[First Impressions: Someone Left A Drag Queen Out In The Rain At Heatherette]]> Who: Assorted drag queens (seen at left).
What: The Spring/Summer '08 show for Heatherette, the line by former club kids Richie Rich and Traver Rains known for its bright, shredded, bedazzled, fucked-up separates and dresses.
Where: NYC's Gotham Hall.
When: Now. After the jump, we check in with Dodai, who is being dwarfed by a phalanx of skinny, towering drag queens as she waits in line to get in.

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<![CDATA[We always dug Vivienne Tam's now-iconic Mao-print...]]> We always dug Vivienne Tam's now-iconic Mao-print dresses. After, who doesn't love a little pinch of the good Chairman in their wardrobe? Which is why we were front and center yesterday for the pre-opening party for Tam's new store in New York's Soho, for which Vivienne hired a flock of models, dressed them in Mao-era army uniforms, and sent them marching down the streets of lower Manhattan. The army arrived (though tardy), we drank too much Veuve, and we admired Vivienne's Spring/Summer 2008 collection, which was monochromatic, minimalist, and had nothing to do with dictators, fascist, communist, or otherwise.

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<![CDATA[First Impressions: Betsey Johnson Show Looks Like "A Bistro In A French Whorehouse"]]> Who: MisShapes harpy Leigh Lezark; Nigel Barker.
What: The Spring/Summer '08 collection of Betsey Johnson (seen at left), the eternal teenager famous for her florals, animal prints, baby-dolls, and platforms.
Where: NYC's Bryant Park.
When: Now. After the jump, we check in with Dodai, who braved a literal downpour to make it from the Lower East Side to Midtown and is presently creaming her pants in the SRO line after spotting Nigel.

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<![CDATA[The Rodarte Spring/Summer 2008 collection...]]> The Rodarte Spring/Summer 2008 collection was one of the best fashion shows we've seen so far: The femininity! The sophistication! The hot-as-Hades scene gathered to watch the show! Yes, the Rodarte show proved to be the meeting place of the who's who of the fashion elite: Scroll through our gallery of backstage, front row, and runway images to see all the fashion folk including French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld, American Vogue's Grace Coddington and Hamish Bowles, Elle's Roberta Myers and Anne Slowey, Barneys New York's Simon Doonan, the Telegraph's Hilary Alexander, and The New York Times's Cathy Horyn, all sweating most fashionably in the unbearable, un-air conditioned heat.
(Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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<![CDATA[Marc Jacobs Channels 'Grey Gardens'? We Beg To Differ]]> Marc Jacobs showed his collection last night, and word on the street is that it's very Grey Gardens. We weren't allowed to attend, because we're bloggers. (We're not joking—that's what other bloggers told us by way of explanation for our exclusion.) Anyway, as soon as we heard that Spring 2008 was shaping up to be Grey, we figured that we'd be the judges of that, considering we're experts on everything Beale. Frankly, we don't really see it, other than the use of a lace cape. First of all, the models have hair, and nobody wore head scarves, and most importantly, there were no upside down skirts. But still, when we saw the looks we couldn't help but review the clothes in "Edie speak". Click on our Edie-annotated gallery, below.

[Images via AP]


Earlier: Retro Fashion: Edie Beale On The "Best Costume For The Day"

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<![CDATA[Milly Spring/Summer 2008]]> (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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<![CDATA[ For reasons still not entirely obvious to...]]> For reasons still not entirely obvious to us, Levi's asked douchebag artist Damien Hirst to design a line for the company. Supposedly it had something to do with Andy Warhol. (We're not sure what, other than that we hope that Hirst's prolonged 15 minutes of fame is nearing an end.) His show, attended by both Mary-Kate Olsen and Vincent Gallo, showcased wares that look like they could've been found in the rummage bin of your local Hot Topic. Only, y'know, covered in skulls. (Imagine!) We counted 10 looks emblazoned with human heads. But please, do tell us if you manage to find more. (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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<![CDATA[First Impressions: What's Up With The Turbans At Milly?]]> Who: Young female celebs and other assorted "cute girls" in their 20s.
What: Milly, the ultra-feminine, young contemporary line designed by Michelle Smith (seen at left).
Where: NYC's Bryant Park.
When: Now. After the jump, we check in with the youngest Jezebel, Jennifer, who gives us a full report via liveblog, despite the threat of a migrane.

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<![CDATA[The Clothes Were Beside The Point At Frank Tell]]> Hot young thing Frank Tell offered up very condensed premiere collection on Thursday night: 15 looks (mainly dresses) inspired, supposedly, by Georgia O'Keefe works. We did not see Georgia O'Keefe anywhere, but we did see what seemed like a G-rated MisShapes party. Although the models stood on a little platform with flouncy dresses, opaque white tights, and white ballet flats, the focus of the evening was elsewhere. Waiters walked around with platters of chocolates and chocolate dipped fruits, champagne flutes were everywhere, and a DJ (clad in Frank Tell, natch) spun discreetly in the corner. And Frank? He pranced and preened and vamped and proved to be a much better model than the girls he'd hired to show his stuff off. (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)


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<![CDATA[Karen Walker: "The Brady Bunch" Meets "The Stepford Wives"]]> New Zealander Karen Walker's clothes always pack a punch, mixing wearability with whimsy — which is precisely why, we're guessing, we saw Teen Vogue's Amy Astley front and center at the show on Thursday. Walker's Spring/Summer 2008 collection conjured memories (inherited memories, that is) of a sort of "Best Of" of late 60's/early 70's iconography. The opening look had us screaming "Carol Brady!", while other ensembles seemed straight out of the costume department of The Stepford Wives (pussy bows, pom poms, and polka dots; short shorts in easy silks.) We look forward to the spread in which Teen Vogue tries to make these clothes look serious, but ends up making them look ridiculous in ways they were never intended to be.
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