Jezebel: diversity watch

On The Runways Of Milan, Color Just Wasn't Considered Chic

Dodai — Mon, 25 Feb 2008 14:30:00 EST

We've been continuing to count models of color as the fall 2008 designer collections are shown around the globe, and although things were not good in New York and London, Milan was the worst so far. The runways were overwhelmingly white. (That's the Gucci lineup, at left.) Our own Maria-Mercedes Lara ran the numbers: Of thirty-seven runway shows, there 1,084 opportunities to send out a model. Asian models walked 28 times, Latina models walked 17 times, and black models walked 14 times. Keep in mind we're counting instances of models on a runway and not the models themselves; Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman, for example, were in more than one show. What's really interesting is how many shows by big-name Italian designers had absolutely zero diversity. (Keep that in mind the next time you consider buying a Fendi purse or anything by Jil Sander!) Some examples, and percentage breakdowns, after the jump.

Shows featuring black models included MaxMara, Prada (?!?!) and Bottega Veneta. Of the 1,084 instances of a model on the runway, a model of color was used 59 times. That's a mere 5%.

The "diversity" was broken down thusly: A black model was used 14 times, an Asian 28 times, and a Latina 17 times. We included Bruna Tenorio because she is of indigenous Brazilian descent, but also noted when Spanish models Barbara Garcia or Sheila Marquez were used, as they offer an alternative to the pale blond Eastern European image that so dominates the runways.

As seen here, the instances of an Asian model on the Milan runways are almost double the instances of a black model. Since Milan is considered the capital of fashion, can one assume it is not fashionable to be black?

A black model was sent out fourteen times out of 1,084 looks during Milan fashion week. That is 1%.

Here are how some of the top shows panned out:

D&G
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 2 (Hye Park, Dual Kim)
Latina Models: 0 (Although Spanish model Shelia Marquez and Brazilian bombshell Isabeli Fontana did walk)
White Models: 43
Total Models: 45
Emilio Pucci
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 25

Etro
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio, of indigenous Brazilian decent. Shelia Marquez also walked)
White Models: 45
Total Models: 47

Fendi
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 24
Total Models: 24

Gianfranco Ferre
Black Models: 1 (Kinee Diouf)
Asian Models: 1 (unidentified)
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio)
White Models: 35
Total Models: 38

Gucci
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0 (Shelia Marquez walked)
White Models: 25
Total Models: 25

Jill Sander
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 32
Total Models: 32

Giorgio Armani
Black Models: 1 (Yordanos Teschager)
Asian Models: 3 (unidentified, Eugenia Mandzhieva, Han Jin)
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio; though Barbara Garcia and Penelope also walked)
White Models: 37
Total Models: 43

Earlier:
Miuccia Prada Puts End To Fashion Week Apartheid!
Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash
Designer: Fashion Runways "Are Full Of White Dogs"
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways
Is Prada To Blame For the Lack Of Black Models?

Black models aren't the only creatives of...

Jessica — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 17:40:00 EST

Black models aren't the only creatives of color getting the shaft: according to a U.S.C. Study quoted in the New York Times, females and non-whites are grossly underrepresented in films nominated for the Best Picture Oscar. "The data show there are almost three speaking males for every one female and more than four white speaking characters for every one non-white character," says U.S.C.'s Stacy Smith, a professor of communication and the principle researcher in the study. The Times Oscar blog, the Carpetbagger, points out that of 20 people nominated for acting awards this year, only Ruby Dee is black. [New York Times]

Designer: Fashion Runways "Are Full Of White Dogs"

Dodai — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 17:00:00 EST

Things were bad on the runways in New York for black models, but at London Fashion Week, it was worse. British-born model Jourdan Dunn (pictured at left) was the only model of color to walk repeatedly on the catwalks this season. "I worry about it," she tells Style.com. "Luck is on my side that I keep getting cast, but there are so many beautiful black girls. I don't understand why it's always only me and maybe another girl who are chosen." Outspoken designer Katherine Hamnett is pissed. "The catwalks are full of white dogs," she tells the Guardian. (Hamnett is Caucasian.) "Cosmetic companies don't like black models — the racist bitches. I have no idea why when it's obvious that black girls are just so genuinely much more beautiful than Caucasians, who have clearly got the short straw."

Carole White, co-founder of Premier Model Management, says she gets casting directives from clients that say "no ethnics." And yet: London is a city where 29% of the population is made of ethnic minorities. 800,000 of its eight million residents are Afro-Caribbean. The fashion industry gets away with being blatantly racist by claiming that there aren't enough black models or that consumers don't buy products pushed by black models. But those are not valid excuses.

Writes Elizabeth Day:

It was not always thus: Yves Saint Laurent famously pioneered the use of black models in his runway shows in the 1970s. The economic resurgence of Marks & Spencer over the past few years has been largely attributed to its highly successful advertising campaign, featuring the black French model Noémie Lenoir. When Harper's Bazaar put [Liya] Kebede on its cover last year, it proved to be one of their best-selling issues — so much so that they are using her again for the front of their May issue.

Whether it's because of economics, trends or bigotry, the fact remains that black models are not "in fashion." But what's so stylish about racism and homogeneousness?

Against The Grain [Style.com]
Why Racism Stalked The London Catwalk [Guardian]
I'm So Looking Forward To When Race Is Not An Issue [Guardian]

Earlier: Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways
Most Ladymags Continuing To Experience Whiteout Conditions