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New York, 7:51 PM
Wed Nov 11
72 posts in the last 24 hours

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    Dsmvwl  Admin  Promote to frontpage Approve user Ban user ×
    Image of random_play random_play
    06/12/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Tatiana is on a roll! Her writing is as good as anything you're likely to find in the Gawkersphere on a particular day. Hope to see more of these articles.
     Reply
    random_play was starred random_play was unstarred
    Image of babyruthless babyruthless
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    It's funny--I literally just (I mean, less than an hour ago) finished reading Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster. It talked about the mass-marketing of luxury goods (exceptions: Hermes bags, Chanel perfume, and anything custom-ordered, which you can do at most houses).


    Middle class consumers are a huge part of the profit for luxury goods companies. Most people, even most wealthy people, cannot afford a $75k gown. But most (or at least many) people can afford a $20 lipstick, a $75 bottle of eau de parfum, or a few hundred dollars on a purse. 40% of sales at lots of the luxury stores are made "in the first room" where the small leather goods are. These are also the easiest to sell, because there is nothing to fit--you like it, you buy it. End of story. Middle class consumers want their goods splashed with logos; the truly wealthy don't want any at all.


    My mom has a Coach purse from the 80's that, other than being a somewhat dated silouhette, is still highly wearable. A few years ago, she wanted to buy a new one, and we actually had a bit of trouble finding one that was (a) made of leather and (b) didn't have a gigantor logo on the flap. At the lower-rent mall near her house, they almost exclusively sell the canvas C logo ones. At the fancy schmancy mall downtown, they have nicer, logoless ones. And $1200 cashmere lap blankets. Drool.

     Reply
    babyruthless was starred babyruthless was unstarred
    Image of TheFormerJuneBronson TheFormerJuneBronson
    06/11/09

    @babyruthless: I've had good luck finding plain leather at the outlet. I don't care for the logos either; if I'm going to drop even outlet-sale cash like that, I want leather. It's true I haven't been in a couple of years, though. There's only so much use an old mom/grad student has for high-end leather goods.
     Reply
    TheFormerJuneBronson was starred TheFormerJuneBronson was unstarred
    Image of LvV LvV
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Not that I am encouraging anyone to spend 50K on a crocodile bag, but the Hermes waiting list isn't necessary to get a bag. I read all about it in Bringing Home the Birkin by Michael Tonello (great book btw, he's a wonderful storyteller).


    Basically, you go into a Hermes store (preferably a smaller, more obscure one -- Tonello went all over Italy and France), drop a couple thou on scarves and belts and whatnot, then casually ask if they have any Birkins and what do you know, they inevitably do. He got hundreds of Birkins this way (he was an eBay reseller). Basically, if you are willing to pay the "entry fee," you can bypass the list, which is maintained not because the bags are indeed rare but because Hermes wants to retain its air of exclusivity.


    I've always thought that the Birkin was a pretty boring-looking bag anyway. :p

     Reply
    LvV was starred LvV was unstarred
    Image of TheFormerJuneBronson TheFormerJuneBronson
    06/11/09

    @LvV: I like the way it looks, but I think it would drive me nuts to have to open the flaps every time I needed something. I have a lot of open-top bags for that reason.
     Reply
    TheFormerJuneBronson was starred TheFormerJuneBronson was unstarred
    Image of shushi shushi
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Wait. So Louis Vuitton bags are made of coated canvas? They're not even leather?
     Reply
    shushi was starred shushi was unstarred
    Image of RobertaFisk RobertaFisk
    06/11/09

    @shushi: Wow... that's hilarious. That just adds to the fact that to me, they epitomise everything that's wrong in fashion.
     Reply
    RobertaFisk was starred RobertaFisk was unstarred
    Image of msAnthrope msAnthrope
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    i feel like such a hippie when the gasp of disgust leaves my mouth upon reading that people justify buying themselves $50,000 handbags and $75,000 dresses.
     Reply
    msAnthrope was starred msAnthrope was unstarred
    Image of taranwanderer taranwanderer
    06/11/09

    @msAnthrope: You and me both, sister.
     Reply
    taranwanderer was starred taranwanderer was unstarred
    Image of birminghamdrunk birminghamdrunk
    06/11/09

    @msAnthrope: word. the last time i spent over $25 dollars on a bag was over 2 years ago, and it was because a) i worked at banana republic at the time, and got a great employee discount and b) the bag in question, with my discount, still only cost around $90.


    i consider myself fairly frugal, though i still spend an inordinate amount of money at the liquor store and whole foods.

     Reply
    birminghamdrunk was starred birminghamdrunk was unstarred
    Image of DellaStreet DellaStreet
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    I have heard that LV bags are not made with leather: it is chemically treated fabric, a linen I think I was told. Tons of $ for logo-printed fabric? OK!


    And another thing: last time I was in Ross, the lady behind me in the cashier line and I started to chat: She is a Frenchwoman, shares her time here in SF Bay area and in Paris. Ross is her store. She can shop in Paris, and chooses to shop at Ross. A friend of hers travels all the way from Paris to shop at Ross. That is all I needed to know!

     Reply
    DellaStreet was starred DellaStreet was unstarred
    Image of TheFormerJuneBronson TheFormerJuneBronson
    06/11/09

    @DellaStreet: I had that same conversation with someone who swears by Kate Spade. Me: "But it's just nylon!" Her: "But it's really good-quality nylon!"


    I'm no shunner of bags; I have several leather Coach bags that I love, and whether it means outlets or eBay, I try to buy the best I can afford because I like things that last. But LV seems very overpriced to me. Then again, I'm relatively poor, and not generally that nosy about what other people do with their money, unless they're constantly bitching that they can't make rent.

     Reply
    TheFormerJuneBronson was starred TheFormerJuneBronson was unstarred
    Image of clevernamehere clevernamehere
    06/11/09

    @TheFormerJuneBronson: Seriously, it is really good quality nylon. I bought one at a sample sale and it looks practically perfect 4 years later.
     Reply
    clevernamehere was starred clevernamehere was unstarred
    Image of Dictator for Life Dictator for Life
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    I saw Valentino: The Last Emperor last week, and it seems to touch on many of these points. Watching Valetino and Giancarlo Giametti disagree with the young guy who was put in as president of the company was just heartbreaking. I imagine that is what it's been like at many of the houses that have been bought by LVMH and PPR and other conglomerates. High fashion just seems to mean less than it did even ten years ago.


    That movie also made me want to wear couture every day. I cannot fathom the skill it takes to make even one of those gowns. Valentino said that at one point, they bought a single sewing machine for the one hundred women working in his atelier. No one ever used it. That would be worth paying for (if I had the money). What's not worth paying for is another LV bag. Whenever I see someone carrying one, I tend to just assume it's a knock-off anyway.

     Reply
    Dictator for Life was starred Dictator for Life was unstarred
    Image of katie.scarlett.o'hara katie.scarlett.o'hara
    06/11/09

    @Dictator for Life: That's so true about LV bags. Even if I could afford one, I wouldn't spend my money on one. The brand has lost its prestige and looks "cheap," for lack of a better word.
     Reply
    katie.scarlett.o'hara was starred katie.scarlett.o'hara was unstarred
    Image of Rare Affinity Rare Affinity
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Horyn says watches seem to be performng well which surprises me. Everyone I know uses their mobile to tell the time rather than a wrist watch.
     Reply
    Rare Affinity was starred Rare Affinity was unstarred
    Image of TatianaTheAnonymousModel TatianaTheAnonymousModel
    06/11/09

    @Rare Affinity: I'm pretty sure she means only luxury watches. You know, the kind that get sold at Baselworld. That category has been doing about as well as Hermès' super-expensive leather goods. At least so far.


    [www.monocle.com]

     Reply
    TatianaTheAnonymousModel was starred TatianaTheAnonymousModel was unstarred
    Image of Maggie Maggie
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    I really hope the recession creates a permanent change in American consumer spending. According to The Story of Stuff, if everyone in the world consumed at the rate of the average American, we'd need 3 to 5 planets...
     Reply
    Maggie was starred Maggie was unstarred
    Image of Ailanthus-altissima Ailanthus-altissima
    06/11/09

    @Maggie: A lot of that comes from the food we eat and the way we travel, though, so it's important to keep that in mind.
     Reply
    Ailanthus-altissima was starred Ailanthus-altissima was unstarred
    Image of morninggloria morninggloria
    06/11/09

    @Maggie: It will because credit availability for the average American is vanishing before our eyes.
     Reply
    morninggloria was starred morninggloria was unstarred
    Image of Zombie Ms. Skittles Zombie Ms. Skittles
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Honestly, as a young consumer, I'd LOVE to see more fashion that didn't have ugly logos all over it.
     Reply
    Zombie Ms. Skittles was starred Zombie Ms. Skittles was unstarred
    Image of vamusical vamusical
    06/11/09

    @MissSkittles is not your kind of lady: Precisely why I loathe LV. If you want me to walk around like a human billboard for your brand, you'll have to pay ME hundreds of dollars, not the other way around.


    Juicy Couture is another one that comes to mind, though I have a bag of their I like that is nice with a teeny, inconspicuous logo.

     Reply
    vamusical was starred vamusical was unstarred
    Image of Ailanthus-altissima Ailanthus-altissima
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    This changes nothing about the way I shop - I couldn't afford it before and I can't afford it now.

    I do really enjoy the deconstruction of "luxury" or perceived "luxury" pieces. The transition from high-end, but accessible to "luxury" item is an interesting one that goes to show just how important and manipulative marketing is.
     Reply
    Ailanthus-altissima was starred Ailanthus-altissima was unstarred
    Image of egg cream egg cream
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Wait a minute, wait a minute. Louis Vuitton bags are canvas?
     Reply
    egg cream was starred egg cream was unstarred
    Image of Penny_Esq Penny_Esq
    06/11/09

    @egg cream: "Coated" canvas, although I'm not sure what the canvas is coated with. The handles and shiz are leather but the bag itself is not.
     Reply
    Penny_Esq was starred Penny_Esq was unstarred
    Image of karmasutra karmasutra
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    If Prada were to sell a dress for $200, it wouldn't sell as well because the general audience high-end brands sell to are usually drawn to buying that brand because it's a sign of wealth and because it costs so much, so make it cost less and it won't be worth as much to those who usually buy it.


    At least that's my take on the high-end fashion industry.

     Reply
    karmasutra was starred karmasutra was unstarred
    Image of bellzar08 bellzar08
    06/11/09

    @karmasutra: I agree and have noticed the same thing.


    For example, the homeless look: an insect infestation level of holes in t-shirts, ripped everything and so on. I see this on the street and I think "ehh... that looks like someone I would see on Fashion People" but once its on the runway it somehow earns the labels of edgy, avantgarde and a whole lot of other complimentary shit.


    So yes, I agree it definitely it more of a status thing.

     Reply
    bellzar08 was starred bellzar08 was unstarred
    Image of happysquid happysquid
    06/11/09

    @bellzar08: Derelicte!
     Reply
    happysquid was starred happysquid was unstarred
    Image of mbprice mbprice
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Before the recession, I wore slacks, a button-down and a tie. After the recession, I wore slacks, a button-down and a tie. Men's fashion is already investment fashion, woohoo!
     Reply
    mbprice was starred mbprice was unstarred
    Image of DinaRonson : Elizabeth Cady Stanton DinaRonson : Elizabeth Cady Stanton
    06/11/09

    @mbprice: Maniform
     Reply
    DinaRonson : Elizabeth Cady Stanton was starred DinaRonson : Elizabeth Cady Stanton was unstarred
    Image of Dizzy8 Dizzy8
    06/11/09

    In reply to This Recession Will Change Everything (About The Way We Dress)
    Great post!
     Reply
    Dizzy8 was starred Dizzy8 was unstarred
    Image of TatianaTheAnonymousModel TatianaTheAnonymousModel
    06/11/09

    @Dizzy8: @greengrey (is not a star!): Thank you :)
     Reply
    TatianaTheAnonymousModel was starred TatianaTheAnonymousModel was unstarred
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