<![CDATA[Jezebel: crashin' show]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: crashin' show]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/crashinshow http://jezebel.com/tag/crashinshow <![CDATA[Crashin' Show]]> Duckie Brown, co-designed by Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, is a menswear line frequently described as "edgy." But that always seemed like a misnomer, because "edgy" seems to connote pretentiousness and an attitude that's painfully serious... and Duckie Brown is anything but. The line is playful, occasionally provocative and frequently funny; these are clothes that make you feel happy, a sensation an "edgy" label would often fail to impart. After the jump, Jezebel Jennifer critiques the Fall 2008 collection, currently being held in NYC's Bryant Park. (Click on picture to jump to her liveblog.)

1:10 PM
Ok in my seat @ duckie. Swag is a men's shaving kit (with a brush and everything) and a box of RIT dye. Mine is kelly green. I am going to try to spy in other people's bags to see what color they got.

Hmm, Guy next to me got green too. He seems super puzzled by the dye. Dude, aren't we all.

In the front row are these people I was chatting with before: A middle-aged-ish woman and her 13-yr old niece. The older cousin is friends with the designers and they met her cousin and invited her to the show
This is her first-ever fashion show, she told me, and the other kids in school are all really jealous. I am glad her first show is menswear. Now she'll just think fashion is cool and fun and quirky and not about anorexia. Also this crowd seems more...oh, how shall I put it? It's more gay men and less bitchy women.
As opposed to the usual 50-50 split at most shows. Subsequently, there is an air of bonhomie, as opposed to silent judgment, in the air

1:15
Ooh the music is starting. It almost sounds funereal; Lots of organ, think fast-paced phantom of the opera. Ok they're taking the plastic off the runway...

If I were a gay man, this music would make me want to dance around in a g-string and do poppers. Everyone's swaying in their seats to the music. If I didn't know better, I would think this was an episode of Pinky & The Brain. And that the music is here to make us never want to stop swaying in unison so the Brain can take over the world.

1:30
Ok lights are going down...it's starting...They turned the music all the way down. There's a very slim, tailored suit with an full blouse underneath. Very cool. And a wool coat I want for myself! Ooh and this hooded grandpa sweater in green. I would totally wear that.

Everything's in black and grey and green is the only color. Haha, someone just whistled at one of the male models - and considering we're sitting here in silence, it was awkward.

Ah - a purple hat! And a purple suit that almost looks like a dress from behind?

These slouchy knit caps are fierce. I even think I could talk my boyfriend into one of those

1:35 PM
A sheer crochet sweater, however? Not so much. Same goes for the glittery sweater. And the blouses being shown underneath the suiting

And...it's over. I think my straight man would wear the plaid shirt, the windbreaker-puffy jackets, and I would beg him to try one of those hats. And I want a hat and that green sweater for myself, all the way!
Gender roles: who needs 'em?

P.S. Overheard by a fellow attendee exiting the show: "I loved all the papery weirdness!"

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<![CDATA[Fashion Week Nightmares: Celebrity Seat-Fillers And Stamps That Don't Match]]> We hinted at the hours of drama and fuss surrounding a 15-minute fashion show, and in The Wall Street Journal today, a reporter dishes insider info from the Rosa Chá show (which we attended). From the size and color of the invitation envelopes, to the guest list and the wardrobe and makeup of the PR girls working the shows, no detail is overlooked. And here's why there's often so much chaos in the tents: "A lot of people turn down fashion show invitations," writes Ellen Byron for the Journal. "Only 50% of invitees typically accept, so for the Rosa Chá show [Alison Brod PR] mailed out 2,000 invitations, even though [the show] would have just 867 seats."

Of course, the seating arrangements are a headache unto themselves: "Editors from important publications are seated in the front two rows. Those from regional magazines and newspapers usually sit farther back. Buyers from the same retailer are positioned near each other but far from the competition. Care is taken not to give junior executives better seats than their bosses." The PR companies also send private cars for celebrities — knowing that if they do, the celeb has a higher chance of actually showing up. Alison Brod, of Alison Brod Public Relations, which handled the Rosa Chá show, admits that the shows "aren't hugely profitable," but raise the profile of the designer and the PR company. But if this whole thing seems like a lot of wasted time and effort, rest assured that some restraint was exercised:

The size and weight of the invitation required postage of 97 cents, but the $1 stamp had beige and maroon tones that clashed with the envelope. [Pam Morris, the 27-year-old account supervisor] thought three 41-cent stamps with brightly colored flowers would look better, but chose the $1 stamps because she couldn't justify the added cost.

A Fashion Show's Backstage Drama: Luring Celebrities to the Audience [WSJ]
Earlier: First Impressions: Rosa Cha Show "Kind Of Like A Joke From Zoolander"

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<![CDATA[Zac Posen, Donna Karan, Heatherette: The Critics "Speak"]]>

It's shocking, we know, but some people take Fashion Week really, really seriously. Designers shudder and quake in anticipation as the world's top "fashion journalists" pull out their best and most pretentious purple prose reviewing the Spring/Summer 2008 collections. In our final primer on what the major critics" have to say about the shows at New York Fashion Week, we've got Zac Posen, Heatherette, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Betsey Johnson. First up, red-carpet favorite Zac Posen drops a touch of 'Little House on the Prairie' onto the runway.

Zac Posen
"out of his hood", "straining", "[model] looked as if she were pulling a plow", "Just about everything... was off", "heaviness of the layers", "pointless details", "prairie frou-frou", "old hat" — Cathy Horyn, NY Times


"lacks...restraint", "inspired by Pilgrims, Amish, Mennonites and Shaker", "restraint was positively mandatory", "at his best with his day wear", "flirtatious white ruffles", "expressed a sweet exuberance" — Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"unlikely inspirations", "big-sky romance", "a softness that his more overtly sexy work lacks", "strayed into dangerous pastures", "as poufy as storm-whipped clouds", "more than a little showy", "a country no-no" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com

"vaguely safari", "smart, modern and controlled", "a lack of restraint is his biggest problem", "his greatest indulgence is the big, splashy finish", "more like the twilight zone" —WWD

"short and sweet", "endearing youthfulness", "wheat sheaves shaped as crystal brooches", "rural spirit", "puffy with volume", "thoughtful" — Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"evoked the wheat fields of the Great Plains", "dramatic beauty of the wind-tossed, open sky", "hand-painted and shadow-dyed", "bold and dramatic as a thunder-clap", "shot with lightning shafts of colour and extravagant shapes" — Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph

heatherette091307.jpgHeatherette
"fun", "surefire", "the models look like wayward brides in a sort of backward couture show", "big red-white-and-blue dose of Americana", "picnic-table print", "Wearable? Sure, a little" — Meenal Mistry, Style.com

"send-up of the U.S. of A.", "delightful high-energy romp", "wasn't all over-the-top camp", "their share of wacky red, white and blue getups", "some chic - and no less whimsical".— WWD

donna091307.jpgDonna Karan
"classy halter and shirt-dresses", "waist was the focus", "flattering", "recalled... women airing themselves on their stoops on a hot summer night, usually within sight of a man in an undershirt" — Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"women as urban warriors", "had the feel of an urban princess", "more comfortable in a garden setting than surrounded by the city's concrete and steel" — Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"worked both sides of the structure/flow divide", "portrait collars", "crisp, breezy", "confident sensuality", "the silhouette was lean and languid or full", "arabesques of silk ribbon" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com


betsey091307.jpgBetsey Johnson
"petticoated party dresses dashed with decorations like sprinkles on a cupcake", "sequins, hearts, laces, and lamé", "deliberate act of indulgence", "huge crinolines", "Empire waists and daisies". — Laird Borrelli-Persson, Style.com

"cacophony of tulle", "no one does a party dress like Johnson", "sparkly", "polkadots and stripes galore", "pink-and-yellow paisley playsuits", 'downright patriotic", "modern-day sailor jumpsuits", "frocks didn't seem to vary much style-wise". — WWD

calvin091307.jpgCalvin Klein
"a job well done", "will gain more meaning with time", "breezy", "egg-wash shades", "the hemlines of the dresses might have been better shorter", "all the models in the show were white", "seems out of touch" — Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"equivalent of a sexy whisper", "austere", "unforgiving fabrics", "faintest gray shadings", "sensuous drape", "its strength was in the purity of the design" — Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"spare, clean canvas", "wasn't enough", "quiet repetitiveness", "minimalist in the style of old-school Calvin" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com

"shimmer of silk", "subtle shades of sea and river water", "exceptional", "succeeded in reigniting minimalism", "modern and relevant" — Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

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<![CDATA[As my brotha from another motha, photographer...]]> As my brotha from another motha, photographer Nikola Tamindzic says, "I am Eurotrash: By default I love Custo!" We couldn't have said it better ourselves. The prints. The colors. All that sparkle. None of it seemed to match. But Nikola (and I suppose his Eurotrash brethren) didn't seem to care. When you can't beat 'em, join... No, I just can't do it. No sparkly pants for me. Sorry, kids.

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<![CDATA[It must be difficult to be Zac Posen, feeling...]]> It must be difficult to be Zac Posen, feeling the weight of being constantly told that the entire fate of American fashion rests on your young shoulders. As Marc Jacobs becomes downright establishment, Posen is the face, the voice, and the spirit of young American fashion. And last night's Spring/Summer 2008 collection shown at Bryant Park certainly captured that vibe: Black, white, and khaki dominated the first half of the show, with many looks unexpectedly invoking a sort of prairie chic. (Anyone else having fantasies of seeing Chloe Sevigny's character go back into credit card debt on Big Love buying all those long skirts and jackets?!) And although the evening looks were less well-done then the day ones, all in all, we conclude that the state of the union is just fine.

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<![CDATA[The Heatherette fashion show was really more...]]> The Heatherette fashion show was really more like a party with a parade in the middle. Plus, some of the most interesting outfits were on the guests! Things kicked off with a performance by Lil' Mama and then the models — black girls! a plus-sized girl! fey boys and hunks! kids! a tranny and a porn star! — charged the runway at a fast clip, looking like they were having a great time despite shredded, tattered, bizarre and often confusing clothes. Below, check out highlights from designers Richie Rich and Traver Rains' celebration of individuality. And don't forget to play spot-the-celeb-in-the-front-row: Diddy, Lance Bass and Bijou Phillips attended.

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<![CDATA[Throw bows, polka dots, ruffles, glitter...]]> Throw bows, polka dots, ruffles, glitter and miles and miles of tulle into a blender and you'll get the frothy concoction of yesterday's Betsey Johnson show. According to the program (which we didn't look at until after the show, whoops!), the prom-inspired looks were organized by decades: 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and 2000s. And mostly, the strapless dresses and cheeky bloomers just celebrated being unabashedly girly. Check out the audience, the candy colored confections — and Betsey's cartwheel! — below.

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<![CDATA[Marc Jacobs: Brilliant? Or A Bomb? The Critics "Speak"]]>

We shop at Forever 21, so maybe we're not the best judges of what's new, fresh, of-the-moment (and other 'Lucky'-isms) in fashion. We have a few Marc Jacobs items, but they were on clearance at Century 21 and probably from five years ago, so that's why we've let the critics speak about the fashion darling's show the other night — you know, the one that started two hours late, and pissed off a bunch of people, including 'Vogue' editor Anna Wintour.

"Bad, sad show", "everything that is wrong with current fashion", "lost in a dark and none-too-original vision of vintage clothes", "only a cute bag... had a charming affect", "even the most eccentric antiques shopper could do better", "nothing here to take fashion forward", "a freak's costume party" — Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

"...expressed perfectly the dislocating values of our culture", "an antidote to the cartoonish Jessica Rabbit sexuality", "stripped-down dresses to break the hold of flagrant sexiness", "erotic", "respectful of women", "beautiful, as well as realistic", "deal openly and imaginatively with sexuality without exploiting it". — Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"...could have used a little more time", "on their own, individual elements... were very attractive", "wearable clothes wasn't the point here", "clothes appropriate for warmer weather", "color-blocking, sheer overlays, sequins", "nude and natural colors with bright pops" — Samantha Critchell, Washington Post

"Extraordinary", "off-kilter and knock-your-socks-off", "a bonkers surrealist streak", "transparency was a key theme", "Gimmicky? You bet. But also fascinating", "gawky and awkward", "provocative", "sublime performance was about sex", "couldn't look away" — Nicole Phelps, Style.com

"a pseudo-Surrealist stab at fashion", "too-big shoes, raw seams, ugly juxtapositions of table-cloth plastic and metallic lace in virulent hues", "unfinished, underwear-exposing", "the height of designer-label luxury", "failed to impress" — Hilary Alexander, Daily Telegraph

"not his strongest, but still, it was great", "a succession of mad hair, mad shoes, kooky glasses and zany clothes", "all wasted, batty church secretary in 1953", "rejoices...in the weird and wonderful moments that make dressing unique" — Amy Larocca, NY Mag

"fairy-tale farce", "inventive layerings", "brilliantly fantastical", "will dazzle all as brightly in their retail incarnations", "haute florals and adorable animalia", "hussy sheers", "a delightfully costumed experimental sexcapade". — WWD

Earlier: Marc Jacobs Channels 'Grey Gardens'? We Beg To Differ
WaPo Fashion Critic Robin Givhan's Dog Molests Shoes; Marc Jacobs Is To Blame


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<![CDATA[ We've been talking like Grey Gardens' Little...]]> We've been talking like Grey Gardens' Little Edie Beale all day long since our review of Marc Jacobs' Spring '08 show earlier today. Considering that we live alone, we're probs like a sliver more insane than Edie herself, as she at least had someone to talk to, or at, rather. Anyway, more looks from last night's show came in, so now we have the proper outlet to express our inner aged debutante. Click below to start the Edie-annotated show.



Earlier: Marc Jacobs Channels 'Grey Gardens'? We Beg To Differ

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<![CDATA[First Impressions: Someone Left A Drag Queen Out In The Rain At Heatherette]]> Who: Assorted drag queens (seen at left).
What: The Spring/Summer '08 show for Heatherette, the line by former club kids Richie Rich and Traver Rains known for its bright, shredded, bedazzled, fucked-up separates and dresses.
Where: NYC's Gotham Hall.
When: Now. After the jump, we check in with Dodai, who is being dwarfed by a phalanx of skinny, towering drag queens as she waits in line to get in.

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<![CDATA[We always dug Vivienne Tam's now-iconic Mao-print...]]> We always dug Vivienne Tam's now-iconic Mao-print dresses. After, who doesn't love a little pinch of the good Chairman in their wardrobe? Which is why we were front and center yesterday for the pre-opening party for Tam's new store in New York's Soho, for which Vivienne hired a flock of models, dressed them in Mao-era army uniforms, and sent them marching down the streets of lower Manhattan. The army arrived (though tardy), we drank too much Veuve, and we admired Vivienne's Spring/Summer 2008 collection, which was monochromatic, minimalist, and had nothing to do with dictators, fascist, communist, or otherwise.

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<![CDATA[First Impressions: Betsey Johnson Show Looks Like "A Bistro In A French Whorehouse"]]> Who: MisShapes harpy Leigh Lezark; Nigel Barker.
What: The Spring/Summer '08 collection of Betsey Johnson (seen at left), the eternal teenager famous for her florals, animal prints, baby-dolls, and platforms.
Where: NYC's Bryant Park.
When: Now. After the jump, we check in with Dodai, who braved a literal downpour to make it from the Lower East Side to Midtown and is presently creaming her pants in the SRO line after spotting Nigel.

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<![CDATA[The Rodarte Spring/Summer 2008 collection...]]> The Rodarte Spring/Summer 2008 collection was one of the best fashion shows we've seen so far: The femininity! The sophistication! The hot-as-Hades scene gathered to watch the show! Yes, the Rodarte show proved to be the meeting place of the who's who of the fashion elite: Scroll through our gallery of backstage, front row, and runway images to see all the fashion folk including French Vogue's Carine Roitfeld, American Vogue's Grace Coddington and Hamish Bowles, Elle's Roberta Myers and Anne Slowey, Barneys New York's Simon Doonan, the Telegraph's Hilary Alexander, and The New York Times's Cathy Horyn, all sweating most fashionably in the unbearable, un-air conditioned heat.
(Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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<![CDATA[Marc Jacobs Channels 'Grey Gardens'? We Beg To Differ]]> Marc Jacobs showed his collection last night, and word on the street is that it's very Grey Gardens. We weren't allowed to attend, because we're bloggers. (We're not joking—that's what other bloggers told us by way of explanation for our exclusion.) Anyway, as soon as we heard that Spring 2008 was shaping up to be Grey, we figured that we'd be the judges of that, considering we're experts on everything Beale. Frankly, we don't really see it, other than the use of a lace cape. First of all, the models have hair, and nobody wore head scarves, and most importantly, there were no upside down skirts. But still, when we saw the looks we couldn't help but review the clothes in "Edie speak". Click on our Edie-annotated gallery, below.

[Images via AP]


Earlier: Retro Fashion: Edie Beale On The "Best Costume For The Day"

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<![CDATA[Milly Spring/Summer 2008]]> (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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<![CDATA[ For reasons still not entirely obvious to...]]> For reasons still not entirely obvious to us, Levi's asked douchebag artist Damien Hirst to design a line for the company. Supposedly it had something to do with Andy Warhol. (We're not sure what, other than that we hope that Hirst's prolonged 15 minutes of fame is nearing an end.) His show, attended by both Mary-Kate Olsen and Vincent Gallo, showcased wares that look like they could've been found in the rummage bin of your local Hot Topic. Only, y'know, covered in skulls. (Imagine!) We counted 10 looks emblazoned with human heads. But please, do tell us if you manage to find more. (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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<![CDATA[First Impressions: What's Up With The Turbans At Milly?]]> Who: Young female celebs and other assorted "cute girls" in their 20s.
What: Milly, the ultra-feminine, young contemporary line designed by Michelle Smith (seen at left).
Where: NYC's Bryant Park.
When: Now. After the jump, we check in with the youngest Jezebel, Jennifer, who gives us a full report via liveblog, despite the threat of a migrane.

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<![CDATA[The Clothes Were Beside The Point At Frank Tell]]> Hot young thing Frank Tell offered up very condensed premiere collection on Thursday night: 15 looks (mainly dresses) inspired, supposedly, by Georgia O'Keefe works. We did not see Georgia O'Keefe anywhere, but we did see what seemed like a G-rated MisShapes party. Although the models stood on a little platform with flouncy dresses, opaque white tights, and white ballet flats, the focus of the evening was elsewhere. Waiters walked around with platters of chocolates and chocolate dipped fruits, champagne flutes were everywhere, and a DJ (clad in Frank Tell, natch) spun discreetly in the corner. And Frank? He pranced and preened and vamped and proved to be a much better model than the girls he'd hired to show his stuff off. (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)


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<![CDATA[Karen Walker: "The Brady Bunch" Meets "The Stepford Wives"]]> New Zealander Karen Walker's clothes always pack a punch, mixing wearability with whimsy — which is precisely why, we're guessing, we saw Teen Vogue's Amy Astley front and center at the show on Thursday. Walker's Spring/Summer 2008 collection conjured memories (inherited memories, that is) of a sort of "Best Of" of late 60's/early 70's iconography. The opening look had us screaming "Carol Brady!", while other ensembles seemed straight out of the costume department of The Stepford Wives (pussy bows, pom poms, and polka dots; short shorts in easy silks.) We look forward to the spread in which Teen Vogue tries to make these clothes look serious, but ends up making them look ridiculous in ways they were never intended to be.
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<![CDATA[Max Azria Spring/Summer '09 Show & Scene]]> (Click on any picture to see entire gallery)

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