<![CDATA[Jezebel: cindi leive]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: cindi leive]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/cindileive http://jezebel.com/tag/cindileive <![CDATA[Spot The Plus-Size Model In Glamour]]> How's that "body image revolution" going for Glamour? Baby steps, but moving forward.

Fresh off a wave of positive publicity for its inclusion of non-size-zero models in its pages, Glamour editor Cindi Leive told New York magazine earlier this week, "We've shot stories for every issue from now through February using fabulous plus-size models, and not just in our feature shoots, but also in fashion and beauty. One of the plus-size models who was featured in our original story is in one of our two major fashion features in December, and looks amazing."

This is good news for anyone who's complained that "love your body" features in women's magazines are relegated to well-meaning corners, near weight loss features yet sequestered from the pole-like, genetically-anomalous, and hungry types that are the standby. So let's take a look at this curvaceous lady in the major fashion shoot in the December issue.

Well, first you have to find her. I paged through the December issue several times but then had to ask to have the plus sized model pointed out to me. This is partly because model Amy Lemons, who also appeared in the November nude shoot, shares the pages with some relatively healthy-looking women (for models). It's also because she appears to be, at most generous estimate, a size 8. The shoot is lovely — exuberant, colorful, even diverse. But plus size? Really?

Of course, Glamour itself admitted that the term was imperfect, in its November spread:

"At most modeling agencies, any girl larger than a size 4 might have trouble getting work because she won't fit the clothes, and over a size 6 she might be moved to the plus division," says Glamour senior bookings editor Jennifer Koehler.

So what do you guys think? Does this count? (By the way: Amy Lemons is the model in the blue and red dresses.)

These Bodies Are Beautiful At Every Size. [Glamour]

Related: Glamour's Plus-Sized Win: Tipping Point For ‘More' to Come? [Mediaite]
Coming This Fall: More Naked Fat Ladies in Glamour

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<![CDATA[Ungaro: Lindsay's Fashion Line "A Disaster"; Banana Republic Clerks Too Bouncy]]>

  • Lindsay Lohan's first collection for Ungaro has been derided by yet another industry heavyweight: Emanuel Ungaro himself. The designer, who sold the business that bears his name in 2005, says Lohan's work was "a disaster" that left him "furious." [Independent]
  • Glamour editor Cindi Leive says the magazine has booked plus-size models for stories for every issue through February, including (relatively more prestigious) fashion and beauty spreads. "One of the plus-size models who was featured in our original story is in one of our two major fashion features in December, and looks amazing," added Leive. Could that be Crystal Renn? Or one of the other gaggle of naked lovelies the ladymag featured in November? [The Cut]
  • Christopher Bailey is no longer the Burberry creative director. He is Burberry's chief creative officer, and don't you forget it. [WWD]
  • Further layoffs at Zac Posen are rumored to be imminent. Since he eliminated his PR director on Monday, the task of handling publicity has been taken up by Posen's mom. Gucci is also said to be mulling serious layoffs. [NYDN]
  • Marc Jacobs, maker of Louis Vuitton Everything: "The kennel was a bit of a joke, really." [ToL]
  • Jason Wu loves to cook and bake, but macaroons had so far eluded his range of expertise. No more! Food & Wine arranged a special lesson for the designer with François Payard. It'll be the subject of an upcoming feature in the magazine. [Grub St]
  • Not only did positive results for the last quarter not boost Crocs' share price — because investors took note that the surplus was largely the result of some kind of one-time tax bonus — but the maker of hideous shoes has trouble on the legal front, too. Porsche is suing Crocs over its use of the brand Cayman, which Porsche holds as a trademark in Germany. Apparently Porsche thinks there might be some confusion over the $29.99 Cayman sandal, and a $51,000 Porsche Cayman. [Footnoted]
  • Prabal Gurung designed a festive red dress with poufy asymmetrical shoulders for Oprah to wear on the cover of the December issue of her magazine. Ellen, in a white suit, strikes a pose next to her fellow talkshow host. Gurung calls Oprah "a role model, a mentor, a leader and a constant source of inspiration." [People]
  • Jean-Paul Gaultier's collection for Target will, he says, "shock parents, shock teachers." Perhaps not as much as his unwitting floor show at the Standard hotel, which has windows overlooking the High Line and Chelsea. "So, I am in the bedroom where it is an exhibitionist event!" says Gaultier. "I did not know that, so I did exhibition without knowing what I was doing. I did not know people could see. But, nobody was looking. It's quite hilarious, it's excellent." [The Cut]
  • Heidi Klum will be the face of Ann Taylor's holiday collection. The company is struggling to reinvent itself after season upon season of declining sales and clothes that even the CEO has admitted were lacking in the design department. Photographer Peter Lindbergh and supermodel Klum are, apparently, part of the rejuvenation plan. [People]
  • Someone is licensing John Lennon's artwork for a clothing collection. Imagine that! [UPI]
  • Weirdest fashion story ever? German Vogue has an editorial featuring Lost's Jorge Garcia and Christie Brinkley. Bruce Weber shot it in Montauk. [Fashionista]
  • Wow. Brazilian Vogue might just be worse than American Vogue. [MadeinBrazil]
  • Adam Lippes has foot-in-mouth disease. After previously telling reporters that "it's rare to find an intern — especially one from a fashion school — that has good style," two of his workers came to him to suggest that he might, you know, apologize. He pooh-poohed them ("I was like, 'I don't mean THESE interns!'"), then reconsidered. He assembled the intern crowd, and told them "I just meant, like, fashion students." They seemed skeptical. "Meanwhile, one of them is wearing silver boots up to here and is a guy. 'Not you! Those boots are great.' But it was fine." Sure it was. The cherry on top: "Some of my interns dress fantastically." [The Cut]
  • Diesel, which stopped selling its jeans in Macy's in 2005 to up its brand value, is reportedly in negotiations to sell a lower-priced line exclusively through the mega-retailer. "If they keep going this route, they'll end up like Levi's," says one person inside the company. [NYPost]
  • Meanwhile, Macy's forecasts its same-store sales to fall 1-2% for the fourth quarter. Shares fell 3.4% in the day's trading. [Reuters]
  • If you've ever wanted to experience the world of malodorous anguish and foot pain that is fashion blogging, here's your chance to submit to a humiliating public competition and vote! [Grazia]
  • The Shophound thinks the clerks at New York's new Banana Republic are way too friendly. [Shophound]
  • American Apparel's quarterly profits rose 83%, to $4.2 million, but investors aren't buying it. The stock price sank 4.6%, to $2.49. [NYPost]
  • Italian cashmere producer Brunello Cucinelli runs a factory with long lunch breaks, no timeclocks, and posted "rules" are quotes from philosophers and writers. He thinks he can afford to be both a great boss and a good businessman, and his company's revenues for this year are forecast to reach 154 million Euros, which is some 7% greater than last year, even with the recession. [Reuters]
  • Talbots has reportedly hired outside consultants to help the company, which has weathered five quarters of successive losses, refinance $225 million in debt. [NYPost]
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<![CDATA[Glamour Celebrates Women Of The Year (Plus Steven Tyler)]]> Rihanna. Serena. Maria. Stella. Iman. Padma. Emme. Estelle. Gabby Sidibe. These were just a few of the boldfaces who bib-and-tuckered it at Carnegie Hall last night to honor Glamour's Women of the Year. And, yes, dude looked like a lady.



There is one word I think everyone can apply to Rihanna's exercise in arts and crafts: bold.


Rory Tahari's gown evokes Poiret.


Digging designer Lucilla Beccaria's boho lady. Et vous?


Liya Kedebe is a fan of the trench dress. I'm a fan of anything when she wears it. Slavish.


See, does Emme know what she's doing, or is this line unflattering? Inquiring minds.


Our collective gaze is torn between Gayle King's shoes and necklace. Collective gaze, people.


When it comes to EIC Cindi Leive: I get it. I think we all get it. Is that the same as liking though?


Maria Shriver's Spanish widow is kind of majestic. Am I wrong to crave a mantilla? How can something so right be wrong?


Some would say, the further we move from necessity and utility, the more closely we approach decadence. How does this apply to Lisa Ling's single sleeve?


Shocker, that: Padma Lakshmi looks glorious in maternity.


I kind of like it when people do unashamed Mount Olympus. Serena Williams is doing this.


Having read The Game, I now understand that Steven Tyler basically invented "peacocking."


I like that Estelle's doing a total 180 and being completely conservative, and it still makes all kinds of sense.


Zoe Kravitz: cool, simple, beyond reproach.


Katharine McPhee rocks the Disney interpretation of Grecian. Not that I saw Hercules.


Whereas Kerry Washinton seems to say, "no, this is how you do it - with a dash of Out of the Past!"


Amy Poehler was a Woman of the Year, angelic.


Stella McCartney showed that part of being a WotY is making everyone else look like they're trying too hard.


Andie MacDowell does unabashed mother of the bride, and I respect this.


Gabourey 'Gabby' Sidibe always looks completely amazing. No rookie mistakes, no missteps. She is either working with a stylist who should be famous immediately, or is a total prodigy.


Luckily, Iman can wear a feathered sack - and probably break into "Cheek to Cheek" as needed.

[Images via Getty]

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<![CDATA[Glamour's "Plus-Size" Model Photo Unveiled On Ellen]]> Models from Glamour's plus-size spread will be on The Ellen DeGeneres Show today with editor-in-chief Cindi Leive. In the preview clip after the jump, we get our first look at the photo, which Leive pledges is only the beginning.




Ellen chats with Crystal Renn, who modeled swimsuits in Glamour's May issue and Lizzie Miller, whose belly-bearing photo in the September issue inspired this "naked fat girl extravaganza," as Kate Harding put it, as well as two other "plus-size" models who aren't identified in the clip.

We haven't gotten our hands on a copy of the November issue yet, but it appear that the "extravaganza" actually boiled down to a single naked model huddle, not pages and pages of well-rounded hips, breasts, and thighs. It may not be what we were hoping for, but the shot still looks beautiful and (unfortunately) for a women's magazine, even two pages of average-sized models is a big step.

After the reveal, Leive says the magazine commissioned the photo to not only celebrate the models' beauty but,

To send the message to young women especially who are reading the magazine that there are a million different ways to be beautiful. You don't have to be born pin thin. Whether you're voluptuous or lean, however you're made is the right way for you.

She even goes on to pledge that Glamour is:

"Committing to picturing a wide range of body types [and ethnicities] in our pages... Diversity of every type. We just want to say there are a million ways to be beautiful and you don't have to fit that cookie cutter standard. And we're going to celebrate the designers who help us do that.

Hopefully Leive means it, because that's definitely something we could get accustomed to.

Glamour Magazine's Normal-Sized Models [The Ellen DeGeneres Show]

Earlier: Coming This Fall: More Naked Fat Ladies In Glamour
Glamour Shocks Readers By Featuring Plus-Size Model's Belly

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<![CDATA[Glamour's Plus-Size Model: "I'm Not Saying Size 2 Isn't Normal, But My Normal Is This"]]> On Today editor Cindi Leive and model Lizzi Miller discussed the huge response to Glamour's picture of Miller's belly. "The first thing I thought was 'OK, not the most flattering picture,'" says Miller, "But that's real." Clip at left.

Earlier: Glamour Shocks Readers By Featuring Plus-Size Model's Belly

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<![CDATA[Glamour Editor Reveals Hidden Expertise In Mixed Martial Arts]]> Glamour's Cindi Leive played Wait Wait...Don't Tell Me's "Not My Job" last Saturday. She talked about inaugural fashions, and the importance of resisting the temptation to use her pages to nominate bogus trends.

Leive deflected host Peter Sagal's invitation to criticize Michelle Obama for, in his words, looking like "clumps of kleenex" were clinging to her chiffon Jason Wu gown — but she did disagree with the protocol sticklers who argued the president made a faux pas when he chose to pair his tux with a white tie instead of a black one. (According to the mindless traditions of men's formalwear, white bow ties are supposed to be worn with tail coats and tail coats only, not tuxedo jackets.)

"I thought that that was actually a good step," said Leive, "because she was wearing a white dress, and he was matching the wife. Which I generally think is a good rule for men to follow — you don't want to clash with the wife."

She also brought our attention to the fact that Jill Biden's Reem Acra gown had an eery resemblance to the dress Miley Cyrus wore to the inaugural concert she co-headlined. The gowns do share a similar coloration and distinctive notched neckline, but on closer inspection, Biden's draped and gathered chiffon is a world away from Cyrus fille's prom-y rhinestone belted satin.

Fig. 1: Jill Biden

Fig. 2: Miley Cyrus




Leive wouldn't be drawn on either Michelle Obama's relatively panned Tracy Feith dress ("I was not a huge fan...but I kind of have a problem criticizing someone for what they're wearing to a prayer breakfast") or Aretha's hat ("It was not a diminutive hat, I will give you that"). But she didn't prove to be entirely humorless: when Sagal asked if she ever simply made up the trends featured in Glamour, she replied, "Every month, Peter, come on!" She later joked that as a working mom, if her assistant ever wrote a book about her, it would be called The Devil Wears Whatever's Clean.

On Glamour's "Guy Issue" — the issue that taught us that "54% of guys in 1995 would sleep with a willing 15-year-old, but only 17% of 2009 guys would tap that" — Sagal was friendly but caustic about the mag's raft of Cosmo-like listicles. "'15 Things That A Man Really Wants In Bed'?" he said, "Come on, I worked on this all day, and I came up with two. And the second one is, to eat a sandwich in bed after. Who are you trying to kid here?"

Unperturbed, Leive replied, "Maybe it's up to Glamour to expose you to the other 289 things you actually want?"

Naturally, Leive defended her publication's approach to fashion. "We don't consider ourselves the sort of mean, finger-wagging fashion authority who will tell you that you are not rich enough or thin enough to wear this stuff," she said. "We try to be approachable and relatable and show our share of crazy designer concoctions, but we're always trying to pair them with things that an average woman might have in the closet." I suppose that's why February's issue features a fashion spread where a model wears a Proenza Schouler dress ($1,275), Viktor & Rolf shoes ($1,100), a Lanvin dress ($6,640), and a Dior dress ($15,650). (Also featured are $45 Converses and a $25 bracelet.) In all of February's fashion stories, you have to flick to the back of the issue to get the price list. I wonder why?

After her brief interview, Sagal announced he would quiz Leive about mixed martial arts, according to the show's typical odd-couple topic pairings. She nonetheless revealed hidden depths of knowledge on the topic of solving problems mano-a-mano. Leive got all three questions right, and won the prize for the listener. Perhaps working at a ladymag is more like no-holds-barred single sex combat than we would have guessed.

Wait, Wait Don't Tell Me [NPR]

Related: Glamour's Guy Issue Has Few Guys, Plenty of Issues

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<![CDATA[MagHag]]> In a transparent bid to get a ladymag Sarah Palin exclusive, Glamour EIC Cindi Leive says Palin is a "great communicator," and "great for women," despite that icky rape kit business. In addition, she compares women disliking Palin to their disliking Martha Stewart. "Back in the day when she first had her TV show, there were a lot of women who just loved to hate on Martha Stewart. And on some level it always seemed like they were feeling put down by her choices... Why do you feel like that’s a referendum on how you live your life? Women take Sarah Palin’s choices really personally. And I think that real progress for women will be when there’s just enough of us out there that you don’t feel like every woman’s behavior is some kind of referendum on you and your choices." Well, last time we checked, Martha Stewart never tried to pass a law forcing anyone else to stencil her mantle. [NY Mag]

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<![CDATA[A Nonpartisan, Ladies-Only Look At Political Fashion On Today]]> Glamour magazine's editor-in-chief Cindi Leive and the Washington Post's Pulitzer Prize-winning fashion critic Robin Givhan were on the Today show this morning for a female-centric "Political Fashion" segment. The ladies discussed Jackie Kennedy, Nancy Reagan and Barbara Bush before moving on to Hillary Clinton, Michelle Obama, Cindy McCain and, of course, Sarah Palin. Seeing a veritable rainbow of Hillary's Traveling Pantsuits was amusing, as was Ms. Givhan's take on Governor Palin's ensemble: "You don't really notice what she's wearing." Yeah, not with all the other crap going on! Clip above.

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<![CDATA[Just Don't Go There]]>

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<![CDATA[The National Magazine Awards: 3 Hours Better Spent Reading Magazines]]> cindylieve.jpgCindi Leive, the editor-in-chief of Glamour and president of the American Society of Magazine Editors, is very attractive. She is very well-liked. She is, by all accounts — and I have more accounts of Leive's bedside manner than I ever asked for — a terribly nice, and intelligent, person. But Glamour is a essentially dumb and frivolous magazine and that fact, coupled with its nomination in the largest-circulation General Excellence category, probably inspired me to pay particular attention to her speech at last night's generally boring National Magazine Awards. And Cindi obliged my cynicism, opening the ceremony with comment to the effect of thanking all the ASME judges for all the many thousands of hours they put in reading magazines. "Thousands of hours of work," was, I believe, the phrase she used, followed by something to the effect of said "work" being performed, voluntarily, by very high-placed and important editors.

Now. I know you might want to read about Padma Lakshmi's dress or the new shoes I regretted buying or all the booze and the chocolate fountain or this 30 Rock guy I talked to or Obama Girl but the fact is I didn't get into this fucking business to do work, I did it because I loved magazines and it actually sort of saddened me to be reminded how much of a pain it is for editors to actually read magazines; to sit down and ponder stories that other editors had deemed good enough not simply to assign to a writer; not simply deem fit for publication in their storied professional magazines; but enter for consideration to the National Magazine Awards.

I have never understood awards shows. I hate watching the Oscars, for instance, because I have never seen enough decent movies, and feel the same way, but exponentially, about words that are worth reading. It was worthwhile only in that I will carry with me the misery of sitting on a dark balcony wearing a dress through an excruciating two-hour sermon on the Things I Could Have Read Last Year that weren't TMZ posts on Brandon Davis' fat brother.

Later in the evening an award was given for some sort of internet feature. Before the winner was announced, a presentation of the nominees cited the "Primacy of Digital News." I didn't catch this; my brain was preoccupied by the all abiding alcohol anticipation anxiety that generally follows a worshiping at the altar of the Primacy of Digital News, but an editor at a monthly magazine was annoyed. "Who do they think they're fucking talking to?" he asked. Perhaps they hadn't read Autumn of the Multitaskers, Walter Kirn's ASME-nominated essay on how "infinite connectivity" is "dumbing us down and making us crazy," or, for that matter, Stephen King's Last Word On Harry Potter, a nominee in the same category that appeared last summer in Entertainment Weekly:

The very popularity of the books has often undone even the best intentions of the best critical writers. In their hurry to churn out column inches, and thus remain members of good standing in the Church of What's Happening Now, very few of the Potter reviewers have said anything worth remembering. Most of this microwaved critical mush sees Harry — not to mention his friends and his adventures — in only two ways: sociologically (''Harry Potter: Boon or Childhood Disease?'') or economically (''Harry Potter and the Chamber of Discount Pricing''). They take a perfunctory wave at things like plot and language, but do little more...and really, how can they? When you have only four days to read a 750-page book, then write an 1,100-word review on it, how much time do you have to really enjoy the book? To think about the book? Jo Rowling set out a sumptuous seven-course meal, carefully prepared, beautifully cooked, and lovingly served out. The kids and adults who fell in love with the series (I among them) savored every mouthful, from the appetizer (Sorcerer's Stone) to the dessert (the gorgeous epilogue of Deathly Hallows). Most reviewers, on the other hand, bolted everything down, then obligingly puked it back up half-digested on the book pages of their respective newspapers.
Maybe it's time for a new tradition: Shit You Should Print Out. The weekend Bulk Pack. Shit too intelligent for me to find time to formulate anything remotely intelligent to say about. The full list of nominees is linked here.


I'll start with Pat Dollard's War On Hollywood, the 23,000-word Vanity Fair profile of a stoner-turned-Hollywood agent-turned-documentary filmmaker-turned-crackhead who also happens to be a left winger-turned-right winger. He's friends with Ann Coulter; Billy Bob Thornton says he's the only guy in Hollywood crazier than him; apparently it gets really good in the middle; the tragedy is I don't know this, even though it not only won the award but was written by a guy I used to date. (Who is, incidentally, always trying to get me to quit drinking.) (And also: is now married and apparently didn't show up at the event because his wife had not been invited; times, they are tough.)

Dollard's target audience is the same as any rock band's: kids—the more disaffected the better. He aims to alter the course of pop culture. "What we've celebrated since at least the 1950s is the antihero," Dollard says. "Today, even though our country has been attacked, nothing has changed. If you are a young man in America right now, the coolest fucking thing you can aspire to be is like a gangsta rapper, or a pseudo bad guy. The message of my movie is simple: If you're a young person in America, the coolest, fucking most badass and most noble thing you can be today is a combat Marine. Period."

Breitbart believes Dollard is onto something important. "There needs to be a confrontation at the pop-culture level of the kids who are over there fighting versus the kids at home who are totally disconnected, immersed in this mindless Abercrombie & Fitch-MTV culture." Breitbart adds, "There needs to be a revolution, and Dollard is the man who can kick it off. I don't care if older conservatives are offended by Pat Dollard. I was not looking for someone pristine. He brings to our cause this whole spirit of, like, the Merry Pranksters Two."

So yeah, "the more disaffected the better" sorta rang out as I started reading the New Yorker's Azzam The American, which profiles a death metal loving youth-turned radical jihadi who became the first American tried for treason in over a half century, or something like that:
There is a certain stylistic uniformity to all forms of propaganda, but the personality of the propagandist is never far from the surface. Bin Laden's murmuring voice belies the contempt in his words. Zawahiri speaks in the confident, rhythmic clauses of a master strategist. Adam Gadahn, though he tries to adopt the composure of a statesman, exudes the zealotry of a convert, and of youth. Sometimes his syntax is so baroque, his sentiment so earnest, that he sounds like a character from "The Lord of the Rings." "The call has gone out," he proclaimed in one video. "The era of jihad and resistance has dawned in all its glory." Mostly, though, Gadahn sounds angry. In 2005, with his head wrapped in a black turban and his face covered with a black veil, he warned, "We love nothing better than the heat of battle, the echo of explosions, and slitting the throats of the infidels." Last July, while discussing civilian casualties in Iraq, he said, "It's hard to imagine that any compassionate person could see pictures, just pictures, of what the Crusaders did to those children, and not want to go on a shooting spree at the Marines' housing facilities at Camp Pendleton." In a feature-length Al Qaeda documentary that was released on the Internet on September 11, 2006, Gadahn referred to the United States as "enemy soil," and celebrated the September 11th hijackers as "dedicated, strong-willed, highly motivated individuals."
A lot of folks thought "Azzam the American" was robbed, but Dollard's story reminds me why I'm proud to be an American:
At the end of our meeting Dollard offers to become my manager. "Seriously, dude, I could get something set up for you like that," he says, clapping his hands to indicate how fast he is going to make a deal.

But Dollard never becomes my manager. In the coming weeks, he breaks several appointments. One day he phones. Rapid, shallow breaths come across the line. "Dude, I am so, so, so fucking sorry for not calling you." No explanation is required, but Dollard offers one anyway. "I was fucking kidnapped."
Dollard claims that members of an A.A. meeting abducted him after promising his wife to get him sober. Instead, they held him prisoner at a hotel in Palm Springs while plying him with call girls and coke. Meanwhile, they used his credit cards to charter a yacht and a plane for business deals they were conducting. The story is incredible, but Dollard's fourth wife later confirms its essential truth, adding, "I'm sure those A.A. people started with good intentions, but Pat twisted their intervention around until they thought the right thing to do was buying coke and hiring prostitutes for him."

Ha ha ha, happy weekend guys!


Which reminds me, one reason I don't generally read magazines is to learn about how to spend my time in ways that aren't reading. Nonetheless, eating and exercising and travel are all more valid topics, in my mind, than shopping and makeup application, which is my excuse for reading Women, Money And Friends Come And Go, But Dogs Are Forever, which won Men's Health an award in the category of "Leisure Interests."

Wolves, like men, come in an assortment of personality types. Some are naturally aggressive — a trait that hardly endeared them to Stone Age hunters. Such wolves learned to stay the hell away from humans altogether or they would have faced extermination by our Paleolithic forefathers. Those wolves blessed with a more peaceful nature, on the other hand, adapted better as the human population boomed. One theory holds that these laid-back wolves benefited from an easily accessible food supply: human garbage. We, in turn, benefited from their warning howls whenever predators or marauding tribes came near. At some point, perhaps following the adoption of orphaned pups by a Stone Age hunter, these pacified wolves stopped living beside us and started living with us. This most likely happened toward the end of the last ice age. In a grave near modern-day Bonn-Oberkassel, Germany, archaeologists discovered the bodies of a Stone Age man and woman and the first "morphologically unambiguous" dog, dating back 14,000 years. "People have been burying or otherwise ritually disposing of dead dogs all over the world for a very long time," says Darcy F. Morey, Ph.D., a zooarchaeologist at the University of Tennessee at Martin. His hypothesis: Humans at this point in history began to view these animals less as beasts and more as creatures imbued with spiritual qualities and thus deserving of proper burial.
Then there was New York Magazine's Cartography: The Complete Road Map To New York Street Food:
Until the seventies, the cart business was dominated by Greeks. Now, coffee carts are run mostly by Afghans. Bangladeshis man virtually all fruit stands and most hot-dog carts, though many uptown hot-dog carts are Dominican. The Vietnamese run smoothie carts. Nut carts are manned by Brazilians and Colombians. The trade is so ethnically fragmented that even Bangladeshis, the largest single group of vendors, make up less than 20 percent of the total number.
And if you like fun urban how-shit-works trivia like that, you'll love Engineering The Megacity, a theme issue of something (an electrical engineering trade publication?) called IEEE Spectrum that did not win an award in its category, but is still, I can fucking guarantee you, a more worthwhile read than anything you are going to read about what went down at the National Magazine Awards.


The Full List Of Links, Please Go Read Something Good And Tell Me About It; I'll Add More Here Later [Andrew Lavalle]
Autumn Of The Multitaskers [The Atlantic]
Pat Dollard's War On Hollywood [Vanity Fair]
Azzam The American [New Yorker]
Know Your Footprint [Popular Mechanics]
Women, Money And Friends Come And Go, But Dogs Are Forever [Men's Health]
Cartography: The Complete Road Map To New York Street Food [NY Mag]
The Last Word On Harry Potter [EW]
Engineering The Megacity [IEEE Spectrum]

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<![CDATA[Will Italian Vogue Break With Fashion Mag Tradition, Feature Black Models?]]>

  • Europeans are always more progressive than Americans. Rumor is, Italian Vogue may be producing a cover featuring only black models. [Fashionista]
  • Oh. My. God. High School Musical and Hannah Montana-inspired Crocs, soon available at a store near you. [Yahoo]
  • Francis Ford Coppola and Sofia Coppola will be the next faces of Louis Vuitton's "core values" campaign (the very same campaign in which Keith Richards agreed to participate in exchange for a LV monogrammed guitar case.) What do you think the Coppolas get out of this? An LV director's chair? An LV vinyard? [WWD, 1st item]
  • "Boyfriend" jackets are big for spring. But Peter Som says the ones he designed for Bill Blass are inspired by Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama. [WSJ]
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<![CDATA[Magazine Editors "Consider" Discussing Airbrushing Guidelines]]> As previously reported, there's talk of banning magazines in the UK from digital photo enhancement. Meanwhile, The American Society of Magazine Editors is considering a "panel discussion" about retouching guidelines, reports Folio. Cindi Leive, ASME president and editor in chief of Glamour, says there will not be a ban. "Given the ubiquity of retouching technology these days—think of brides and their wedding photos—it seems unrealistic to forbid all digital manipulation of photos in any magazine." Wait, brides are doing it, so it's okay? Folio points out that Leive is no stranger to PhotoShop controversy. Still, she says, "Readers should never be misled about what they're looking at." And yet!

From the Blender cover where Britney's head was attached, Frankenstein-style, onto another body, to poor Faith Hill — readers are misled. Constantly. Take the new Marie Claire: We all know that Tina Fey has a prominent scar. So why can we barely see it?

As a reader pointed out, in this ad for Gossip Girl, Blake Lively's waist has been whittled down to the size of her neck. Screen shots from behind-the-scenes at the shoot prove how drastically she was chopped.

Some magazines in the UK claim that they're altering photographs to make models fatter. Well not fat, of course, just less emaciated. "It is now deemed just as negative to be too thin as too fat," says Belinda Coleman of retouching agency The Shoemakers Elves. "Every­one is scared of being highlighted as the magazine or label that promotes very thin girls, so they are being a lot more careful about the images they present." But this means that the model is still frightfully thin and getting paid. "Retouching skinny girls doesn't help anyone except advertisers, and least of all the models in question," writes Kate Finnigan, the style editor of Stella.

To be honest, when I think of a PhotoShop ban, what comes to mind is the scene in Batman where the news anchors can't use any makeup or cosmetics products because the Joker has tainted them all. The faces of the reporters are ashen, pale, craggy and uneven. It's shocking because we know what people on TV are supposed to look like: Smooth and perfect. Even if they're just reading the news. Magazines are the same; we're so used to the lies, the forgeries on the covers. How would we handle it if covers suddenly started revealing the truth? On the other hand, if magazines continue to lie and continue to have their lies exposed, are they fools for persisting? Are we fools for buying? Are the stars fools for aiding and abetting the lies?

ASME Plans To Address Photoshopping [Foilio]
Now Fashion Mags Make Models 'Fatter' [Telegraph]
Airbrushing Fears Under The Carpet [Telegraph]

Related: Britney Spears Blender Magazine March 2008 Cover [PopCrunch]
Tina Fey - "Marie Claire" May 2008 [JustJared]
Earlier: America Ferrera's 'Glamour' Treatment, Revisited
Vogue Cover Girl Drew Barrymore Has Been Powerfully Photoshopped
The Five Great Lies Of Women's Magazines
Here's Our Winner! 'Redbook' Shatters Our 'Faith' In Well, Not Publishing, But Maybe God

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<![CDATA[ Glamour editrix Cindi Leive was speaking...]]> Glamour editrix Cindi Leive was speaking at the Magazine Publishers of America's 2008 Retail Conference earlier this week, and she attributed some of the success of her magazine to its "upbeat" and "positive" message. "[Our] headlines don't talk down or blame or accuse women," she said. "Most are complimentary and positive messages." Right after Bill Mickey from Folio magazine reported these comments, he snarked, "Despite the positive cover lines, Glamour's single copy sales (747,014) dropped 13.2 in the second half of 2007 compared to second half 2006, according to ABC Fas-Fax numbers." Ooooh BURN. [Folio]

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<![CDATA[Nothing Comes Between Kate Bosworth And Her Calvins]]>

  • Kate Bosworth is the new face of Calvin Klein jeans. Looks good enough to make us forget another girl named Kate who once was the face of CK jeans. [Vogue UK]
  • In case you forgot, here's what Brooke Shields looked like in her Calvins. [Sassybella])
  • With nary a girl to dress for red carpet season, Badgley Mischka has made an awards-attending Barbie. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Mazel Tov to Stella McCartney, who just gave birth to baby number three, a son, Beckett Robert Lee Willis. McCartney and her husband Aldashair WIllis have two other children and one ex-wicked stepmother. [WWD, 2nd item]
  • Tyson Beckford's ego really must be stopped: "What's so great about me is I can call Naomi Campbell and be like 'Yo Naomi, we need you to teach these girls how to walk.' I don't think anybody else in fashion can do that without her charging you a brick. I can do that because I'm her friend...I can call anyone in fashion. I can say 'André Talley, come here'...I can say, 'Hey, André Talley, come hang out with me,' and he'll do that...I can call Ralph Lauren, you know. I can go sit in Ralph's office and put my feet on his desk and say 'Ralph, I need a favor.'" [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Our favorite Project Runway judge Nina Garcia: Moved to tears by Gabriel Garcia Marquez's Love in the Time of Cholera, rocks out to Amy WInehouse and James Brown. [The Fashion Informer]
  • Now you too can buy your very own spacesuit! [Guardian]
  • Want to sell clothes? Or a bologna sandwich? Put Miley "Hannah Montana" Cyrus's name anywhere near an object you need to move off the shelf and it will go flying so fast you'll think you've been robbed. [NYPost]
  • Donna Karan's new line of handbags are inspired by the different signs of the Zodiac. "I live by astrology," says Karan. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Glamour editor-in-chief Cindi Leive is just like us: Doesn't call her grandmother enough! [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Let this news from Australia be true: Skinny models are out, healthy looking girls are in. [The Age]
  • Aspirin + apple cider vinegar = clean hair? [BellaSugar]
  • Really expensive handbag line Mulberry is now venturing into the world of really expensive shoes. [Vogue UK]
  • Valentino: Getting a medal from the mayor of Paris! Aw? [WWD, 5th item]
  • Retailers' profits are sucking big time. [WSJ]
  • Bravo's new show Make Me A Supermodel premieres tonight with swank (we guess?) corporate sponsors Mercedes Benz, Alltel Wireless, and Garnier hair products. [MediaWeek]
  • Lucky Seattle: Getting 3 new H&M's in the next year! [Charleston Post-Courier]
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<![CDATA[Glamour Attempts To Negotiate Peace Between Blacks, Bitchy Redheads]]> Not only did the Israelis meet with the Palestinians yesterday! Glamour Magazine met with black people. The topic at hand was Ashley Baker, the white former fashion blogger-editor from Kansas who told a bunch of lawyers that Afros and dreadlocks were a corporate "don't", although maybe she didn't exactly say that but either way now she's gone like Yasser Arafat, and yet institutional racism remains. Which is why, as many of the people who attended yesterday's event pointed out, Ashley's alleged statement was actually fairly accurate and pragmatic advice. What to do? No one knows! We weren't invited, but the reviews are in and it sounds like an amiable star-studded gabfest, replete with Veronica Chambers and Court TV's Jami Floyd and moderated by NPR's Farai Chideya, with one notable exception, chronicled by (white) blogger Girlbomb.

Kicked out of prime seat by A/V guy; denied alternate seat by snotty redhead, "waiting for [her] friend."
Who is bitch kidding. Bitch has no friends.

And, like, that would be the main problem: how are white chicks supposed to really confront their own racism if they can't even acknowledge their own inhumanity to other white chicks? Can't we all just get along, etc? Seriously though, if you want to know more, Girlbomb dutifully paraphrased most of what everyone had to say a la:

Panelist Daisy Hernandez of ColorLines: Yeah, that's not really a surprise to the rest of us. So, do you have any non-white chicks working at Glamour, or what? Also, Jami, what's up with your straightened hair?

Jami: Hey listen, I had to give up a piece of my self to get this job, and it sucks, but I do it, because I have bills to pay, and they are not letting me on Court TV with my 'fro on.

Audience member: But WHY would it matter how you wear your damn hair? Can we just say that it's because people are racist, and that's bullshit?

Jami: Look, white men are in charge. I said I was conflicted about it! Did I mention my mortgage?

Oh man, your mortgage. Don't tell me it was adjustable-rate! There's a social ill that all races can agree on right about now. Although, as usual, traditionally oppressed minorities are faring lots worse.]]>
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<![CDATA[Posh Gets Glamour Editor Cindi Leive Thrown Out Of Boutique]]>

  • Glamour editor-in-chief Cindi Leive learned what it really feels like to be "just like us" when she got booted out of Parisian boutique Colette because Victoria Beckham had arrived to shop. And uh, Leive was in the middle of getting changed in the dressing room. Ouch. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Memo to models: It does not make us like you any more when you say things like, "But my whole family is tall and pretty!". [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Olivier Theyskens is going to restage his S/S 2008 Nina Ricci show in interior designer/cracked out Top Design judge Kelly Wearstler's backyard in Beverly Hills. For breast cancer awareness, naturally. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Speaking of cancer: Marc Jacobs will be reissuing his skin cancer awareness T-shirts with all our favorite naked (and we assume, lily-white and sunspot-free) tushes from last year — Winona Ryder, Julianne Moore, etc. [WWD, 1st item]
  • Marc listed his own outfit on the run-of-show sheet given to all attendees at the Vuitton show. Right down to his Sponge Bob lunchbox. [So can you stop idolizing this freak already? -Moe]Fashion Week Daily]
  • French singer Francoise Hardy is probably going to start a clothing line herself. Le why? We would've hoped that the French were more evolved than us, and would have been able to spare themselves from Celebrity Designer Syndrome. [WWD, 2nd item]
  • Gucci is partnering with UNICEF, presenting a special, limited-edition bag that will benefit the children's charity. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Apparently redheads have more fun these days. Alert Britney! [Daily Mail]
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<![CDATA[Glamour "Racist" Ashley Baker Calls Us, Sets Nappy Hair Story Straight]]> ashleyheadshot.jpgOusted Glamour "racist" Ashley Baker just called me, and as I expected, turned out not to be a racist. No, for real, when you hear the full story, which I'm not going to repeat because I'm going to ask you to trust me on this one, you think, well for one, not only is Ashley Baker not a racist, but it is kind of racist how other people at Glamour are using her public shaming as an opportunity to say "OMG Ashley is such a bitch and I hate her so much" as if it makes them official point guards on Team Nappy Hoes. But Ashley was in a tough position. "My experience is that when something like this happens, if you just come out immediately and tell the truth and say you're sorry, people will accept that," she said. "That's what I wanted to do" — and what she asked to do as soon as she saw the original post. Of course she couldn't, because working at Conde Nast magazines is really official and important and every statement needs to be parsed and vetted because they're like the National Security Agency that way.

Ashley says decided to quit when, six weeks after placing her on a sort of uneasy probation during which she was forbidden from blogging or making any sort of statements to anyone about anything, some sort of overlords asked her to amend her official apology to say that she regretted she had not had the courage to come forward earlier. Everyone, of course, should be willing to lose their jobs to defend themselves against accusations of racism. And so, yeah, Ashley learned that lesson. Among others.

P.S. A call to Glamour made by me was not returned, unless Conde Nast recently purchased the number of this one collection agency that likes to harass me sometimes.

Related: Actually, Everyone At 'Glamour' Really Likes Ashley Baker [Gawker]

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<![CDATA['Glamour''s Suze Yalof Schwartz Hates Black Butts, Cannot Lie]]> suzanne_bio.jpgRemember when that Glamour editor told luncheon full of lady lawyers that like, having black hair is one thing if you're, like, Allen Iverson or Sir Mixalot or whatever, but in the corporate world you needed to keep your politics out of your hair i.e. not be black? Okay, so then, remember how our sister site Gawker outed Glamour "Suze on Style" blogger and executive fashion editor Suze Yalof Schwartz as the probable culprit? So guys! Today on "Suze On Style"
I think I've truly seen it all now - check this out: The Brazilian Butt Enhancer. Seriously, I've never met someone who wanted a larger rear, have you?
Ha ha ha ha so you're blogging to us from the year 1957, Suze? Anyway, we consulted the writer of the original American Lawyer piece, Vivia Chen, on the incident for a reaction as to, you know, WTF.

And she basically replied that she had been told that the original Glamour racist was a "junior person," as Glamour editor Cindi Leive herself claimed in a letter to the magazine, in which she identified the employee simply as "junior staffer" who, while "not a beauty editor" was nevertheless an "editor." So did Cindi simply fall on her subterfugesword to cover up for an incurable, irredeemable racist? Or does Glamour actually employ TWO separate editors who have never heard the song "Baby Got Back"?

Would You Ever Wear This? [Glamour]

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<![CDATA['Glamour' Editor Cindi Leive: Smart, Sensitive...OMG We're Really Trying Hard Not To Judge!]]> Cindi Leive was the daughter of a scientist mom who attended the nation's nerdiest and most self-serious liberal arts college and interned at the Paris Review ... all so she could grow up to edit Glamour? Where her crowning achievements include... the online Do's And Don'ts forum, Alyssa Shelasky, Edgy English Teacher. We're not going to editorialize on this matter, because according to Sheila Kurtz's handwriting analysis, she's "exquisitely sensitive" to criticism and very easily "wounded." Also: no one we know has told us she's a bitch. Yet!

cindileivesignature080907.jpg

This writer is exquisitely sensitive to sharp criticism. This sign is visible in the inflated loop of the "d" in Cindi. She cares what others say about her and her work. She is often wounded, and she may be poignantly hurt by barbed, destructive opinions.

There is also a large loop standing for the "C" in Cindi, and another in the "L" in her last name. These indicate an inclination toward the philosophical, but the signature is insufficient to point to what areas.

There is a needle-point in the "n" that signals a person who picks up information at NASCAR speed; she ranks in the 95th percentile. The "i" forms are closely dotted, a sign of attention to detail. Also, the dots are round and precisely placed (even in the last name). This signals a strong loyalty to particular people, values and institutions.

The last name is a loop and a straight line. The line is firm and straight with a hook at the end. This form speaks of caution (the straightness) and tenacity (the hook). The writer will think long and hard before she lets anyone into her realm; once a person is admitted, the writer may be their champion for life.

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<![CDATA[Omaha, Nebraska: Underground Fashion Capital]]>

  • Indie pop band Tilly and the Wall announces Nebraskan style-revolution from the stage of the Coachella Music Festival, saying of their home state: "...you don't really have anywhere to buy clothes except for thrift stores so you just create it yourself, which has led to a ton of crazy style in Omaha." [WWD]
  • Glamour editor-in-chief Cindi Leive re-elected president of American Society of Magazine Editors (ASME); Elle editor-in-chief Robbie Myers transitions from secretary to vice president of the organization. [WWD, 1st item]
  • Liz Claiborne has gifted a $350,000 scholarship in honor of their new Chief Creative Officer Tim Gunn to his former employer, Parsons, to help budding designers in their journey to "make it work." [WWD]

  • Silvia Venturi Fendi, brand accessories director of the family business, sings "We Are the World," and insists that open office and eschewing of traditional, regimented design process yields more creativity and better products. [WWD]
  • TopShop head honcho Sir Philip Green tended to customers and fetched different sizes during Kate Mosspalooza at the TopShop on Oxford Street yesterday. [Vogue UK]
  • Furniture makers Kartel teamed up with the best of the best in the world of fashion design to create chairs that are supposed to embody femininity. Or something. The girly chairs will be on view in the windows of Barney's flagship store on Madison Avenue sometime in May. [Fashion Week Daily]
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