<![CDATA[Jezebel: christian dior]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: christian dior]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/christiandior http://jezebel.com/tag/christiandior <![CDATA[Versace In Trouble; Kate Moss Fires Hairstylist]]>

  • Dana Thomas — author of Deluxe — wrote an excellent feature on the quagmire of the house of Versace. Thomas takes aim at Donatella and Santo Versace's resistance to change and ham-handed business decisions. It's a thrilling read. [Newsweek]
  • "My kids are my best style advisors because they are so honest," says Victoria Beckham. "I remember one time I was wearing a Chanel cape and skinny jeans and I walked down the stairs to see my sons and they said, 'Oh my God, Mummy, you're Batman!'" [Grazia]
  • We know this is hard to imagine, but the new Calvin Klein billboard in SoHo is quite sexual. Some say it "goes too far"! For more details of the development of this shocking and unexpected outrage, you can count on the Daily News. [NYDN]
  • Moises de la Renta, son of Oscar, is rumored to be "inking a deal" with Mango, presumably as a designer. [WWD]
  • Pamela Anderson has not one, but two perfumes: Malibu Blue and Malibu Pink. They start at $39 and are available at drug stores. [People]
  • Custom, one-of-a-kind Uggs really are a level of ugliness impressive to behold. [WWD]
  • Tamara Mellon says the clothes she has produced for the Jimmy Choo for H&M collaboration were hard to conceptualize, because she doesn't sketch. Then, like so many designers, she had a brainwave, and picked apart some much-loved vintage pieces, cut patterns, and slapped labels on them. [LATimes]
  • Although Mellon holds the copyright to the label Jimmy Choo, the real Jimmy Choo still designs bespoke shoes for an ultra-rich clientele under the name Jimmy Choo Couture. "I design like an architect," says the Malaysian-born Choo. "It's a beautiful, distinctive art, and shoes are like the foundations. If the foundations aren't right, the building won't stand upright, and if a woman's balance isn't right, nothing else is." Are you listening, Christian Louboutin? [Telegraph]
  • Kate Moss is notoriously resistant to being interviewed, so when longtime hairdresser James Brown included more of her than she anticipated in the final cut of a TV doc about his shop, she cut him loose. "She maintains her hair herself nowadays," says Brown, we imagine a tad wistfully. [Daily Mail]
  • Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons has a collection of handbags about the Beatles. [IHT]
  • Heard of Roksanda Ilincic? Mareunrols? Bogomir Doronger? Baltic and Eastern European designers must be a trend! [FT]
  • Hey, look: someone's applying the Netflix mail-order rental model to designer clothes. Drycleaning included in the fee. [NYTimes]
  • Burberry's social-networking site, artofthetrench.com, has launched. [Artofthetrench]
  • Cynthia Rowley is going to design new uniforms for United Airlines flight crews. [ChicagoTrib]
  • Henry Holland says he and Agyness Deyn, who both grew up in a town called Ramsbottom, rarely ponder the nuances of their unlikely fashion greatness. "We'd be complete wankers if we did that, wouldn't we? Pause the TV! 'Hang on, you're the hottest model and I'm one of the hottest young designers, let's talk about that while I make a brew.'" [Guardian]
  • While textile exports are worth around $12 billion to Pakistan's economy every year, the country's garment industry is relatively under-developed. "We are still doing the 30 dollar a dozen T-shirt business. There is no value added," said Ayesha Tammy Haq. "We should be employing millions of people, not hundreds of thousands of them." Hence Fashion Pakistan Week, of which Haq is the CEO. And don't expect the clothes to be dull: "This does not represent what we are as a people," designer Ayesha Tahir Masood said. "Only 0.001 percent of Pakistani women would wear these clothes, and then only in a controlled environment when drunk out of their minds." [AP]
  • Carmen Colle is a French designer who runs a company, World Tricot, that hand-makes unique knitwear to the specifications of top houses like Christian Dior, Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Colle is suing Chanel for allegedly taking one of her crochet patterns without paying for it. The four-year-old suit is finally being heard in Paris, along with a countersuit that asks the judge to consider Colle's level of fault for daring blacken the Chanel name with such an allegation. Since filing her lawsuit, World Tricot has been largely abandoned by its other clients, and Colle has been forced to lay off all but 12 of her staff. [Guardian]
  • Lord & Taylor's same-store sales have risen 6% and 12%, respectively, on last September and October. Last September and October was pretty much the middle of the giant red Down arrow of the retail market, however, so even a double-digit improvement on those results is to be taken with a grain of salt. [WWD]
  • The company that makes Crocs enjoyed a $22.1 million third-quarter profit, but the stock is still losing value. The surplus largely came from a one-time tax benefit, and investors are dubious about the company's long-term prospects. [TS]
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<![CDATA[When Karl Was Young, And Other Stories]]> Women's Wear Daily's photo archive of designers and socialites in their homes documents some daring sartorial and interior-decorative choices on the part of people like Catherine Deneuve, Robert Evans, and Yves Saint Laurent. And, for some reason, William F. Buckley.


Doesn't Deneuve look divine?

Wherever Gloria Vanderbilt is going, I want to follow.

In 1969, Karl Lagerfeld was already doing that strange pursed-puffy lips thing.

Producer Robert Evans clearly believes there is no such thing as too much velvet.

It's decided. Kenneth Jay Lane has the best caftan, ever.

And then Christian Dior designer Marc Bohan has the best staircase. Or at least he did in 1973.

I want to know what's making Jeanne Moreau look so sad.

Like Nancy Reagan, I often pause to laugh haughtily to myself when reading the newspaper. Don't you?

The promised, inexplicable, picture of William F. Buckley and his wife, Pat.

Maxime de la Falaise, with her sketching and her silk pajamas, clearly has life all figured out.

The late, great Yves Saint Laurent, pictured at his home in 1983.

Home Sweet Home: Designers' And Socialites' Abodes [WWD]

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<![CDATA[Stella's GapKids Line Debuts; Nicole's Navajo-Inspired Footwear]]>

  • Prince Charles toured the new Burberry headquarters yesterday. Designer Christopher Bailey and C.E.O. Angela Ahrendts showed him the 160,000 square foot building, and gave him a peek at the unreleased Burberry social-networking venture. [WWD]
  • J. Crew creative director Jenna Lyons, whose salary is $1.9 million annually, received a hefty $1 million bonus this week — with strings attached. If she leaves the company within two years, she must repay it, and if she leaves during the following two years, she has to repay half. J. Crew has been cutting costs aggressively since the economic downturn began; in February, it instituted a wage freeze, fired 95 employees, and ceased matching 401(k) contributions. [WSJ]
  • Kiwi model Rachel Hunter recommends see-to-be-seen spot The Standard Grill for dining in New York. She also recommends closing the curtains, should you rent a room at the hotel. [TDB]
  • Demi Moore is a big supporter of designer Prabal Gurung. After she wore one of his dresses, his Twitter followship jumped from 50 to over 1,000. Why this story merits the tabloid header "Should Ashton Be Jealous of Prabal?" is inexplicable. [Style.com]
  • Lara Stone may have missed out on the next Chanel campaign, but being the spring face of Louis Vuitton must be some consolation. Hopefully the brand won't Photoshop her into a waxy, corpselike likeness, à la Madonna fall 2009. [WWD]
  • Sexy designer Yigal Azrouël is running the New York Marathon this weekend. Joining him — and nearly 40,000 other people — will be supermodel Veronica Webb. Model Anne Vyalitsyna has volunteered to guide a disabled runner along the course. [The Cut]
  • There are paparazzi shots of Georgia May Jagger on the Leicester Square set of her new Rimmel ad. Yeah, she has her dad's mouth. [Daily Mail]
  • Christian Dior, Chanel, and dozens of other French labels are collaborating on a Chinese website that will feature lavish, 3-D photographs of their products. And then not allow anyone to buy them online. Sounds like a counterfeiters' cookbook if ever we heard of one. [AP]
  • Kenneth Cole cracked puns shared his sobering thoughts with students at FIT on Wednesday: "People say that things will get better in a few months, but to be honest, I don't think it will get better for years. The key is to go out in the world with a sense of contest....Find out where you can offer value as a designer and create something that people will desire." [WWD]
  • Then at FIT on Thursday, fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo took to the stage to talk about his new Penguin Classics cover designs. And his day job. Toledo says despite having his work featured in a plethora of international editions of Vogue, he hasn't cracked American Vogue because "they're a bit too safe." [The Fashion Informer]
  • Alexander Wang's fall collection includes $395 bike shorts. He defends them thusly: "People look at that and go 'Oh, those are biker shorts.' But the yarn we use is from Italy, the technique is digital weaving, there's a lot that goes into product development that the consumer doesn't necessarily always understand. And for the people that do understand it, they do get into it, they buy it, and those are the people I'm speaking to. And there will always be people that don't understand what you're doing, but I'm not here to satisfy everyone." Do you get that? Those are the people he's speaking to. He's selling $395 bike shorts to the $395 bike short-people. And only them. The rest of you peons can buy your non-Italian yarn, loomed bike shorts at Target. [The Cut]
  • You could buy two styles from Tory Burch's new sunglass range for less than the cost of Wang's shorts. (And they're still overpriced!) Though there's one pair of folding aviators that's kinda nifty. [Style.com]
  • Crystal Renn is in the latest campaign for Evans, the UK plus-size high street store. And she looks great. [Daily Mail]
  • Pics are out of Nicole Richie's footwear for her House of Harlow brand. The shoes, which will go on sale in the spring, feature some Navajo-inspired embroidery. Sounds like Richie's been taking a leaf from the Navajo-Pocahontas-at-the-disco stylings of Kelly Bensimon. [FabSugar]
  • Christian Siriano "designed" a Starbucks gift card for the holidays. It differs from the regular gift cards thus: it is smaller (which is noticeable) and "chic-er" (not really noticeable). [FWD]
  • "There's nothing more American than a pair of blue jeans," says a worker at one of the last remaining denim mills in the U.S. Actually, blue jeans are a French product — serge de Nîmes dyed with indigo imported via Genoa, or bleu de Gênes — that was reinvented in the American West by Eastern European Jewish immigrants. But close enough! Boo to those Mexicans who are now making our products! [CNN]
  • Michael Kors is doing a makeup collection for Estee Lauder. It'll go on sale in January, and it's named Very Hollywood, to match Estee Lauder's recently launched Very Hollywood perfume. [WWD]
  • Estee Lauder's profits for the quarter ended in September rose to $140.7 million dollars. Last year during the same period, the company made a paltry $51.1 million. [AP]
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<![CDATA[Cate Nabs Vogue Cover; Naomi Attacks Photographer]]>

  • Australian Vogue's September cover is out, and it features a stunning illustration of Cate Blanchett. [WWD]
  • Meanwhile, Fashion Week Daily is reporting on a rumor that Victoria Beckham might be American Vogue's October cover model. [FWD]
  • The Kanye West-Gap intern story is back, this time as written in the Chicago Tribune. But no sources are named — doubly so where the rumor-within-a-rumor that West is looking to launch a clothing line with the retailer is concerned. But it would be so perfect! Amber Rose could model it. [ChicagoTrib]
  • Jessica Simpson, on her new lingerie line, produced by a licensee of a licensee: "Of course I love lingerie. What girl doesn't? My lingerie reflects the way I'm feeling when I wake up and helps me set the tone for my day." [WWD]
  • Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton stuffed animals: no celebrity artist megabrand collaboration should ever be this goddamned cute. [FWD]
  • French street style photographer Garance Doré has a new gig expanding her blogging coverage for Paris Vogue. [WWD]
  • Balenciaga returned to Jennifer Connelly for its fall ads — and then had Steven Meisel photograph her very awkwardly. [SassyBella]
  • Jean-Paul Gaultier, for his part, booked Raquel Zimmerman and Raquel Zimmerman for his fall campaign. Raquel Zimmerman plays the girl role and the boy role and looks mighty good doing it. [FWD]
  • Gaultier's collaboration with Doc Martens — available only in France, hélas — features boots with perforated leather in a grid. And, as Fashionista points out, you could totally make a DIY version. [Fashionista]
  • Roberto Cavalli's house involves significantly less leopard print than we might have imagined. [The Moment]
  • Naomi Campbell may have attacked a paparazzo with her handbag on holiday in Sicily. [Daily Mail]
  • Designer Paul Smith, on photographing his own ad campaigns: "The whole idea of a designer doing photographs is sort of pretentious: ‘I do everything, you know.' Like Karl whatshisname. I'm a snapper, not a photographer. I'm not Mario Testino. But my lot have been saying, ‘You take pictures; you do it.' So I thought, ‘Let's have a go.' My creative director and the marketing guy and the press people are all pleased with them." [ToL]
  • Amber le Bon is to be featured in an upcoming issue of (British?) Vogue wearing her mother Yasmin's vintage clothes. [Daily Mail]
  • Late on Friday, fashion writer Diane Pernet published an e-mail exchange between the stylist for "a well-known singer of color" and a PR representative for designer Alexander Wang; the PR was denying the singer's request to wear Alexander Wang clothing, and when the stylist wrote back intimating that the denial was based on her client's race, the PR seemed to agree, and said she was quitting her job. Although Blackbook originally reported on the story, both it and Pernet have pulled their posts about it — did Wang threaten legal action? — but Blackbook's Facebook note publicizing its post is still visible, and Homo Neurotic has reprinted the full text of the e-mails. [Facebook and Homo Neurotic]
  • You can now count Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati among the thundering horde descending on London Fashion Week in September. Pilati will be in attendance because of his mentor relationship with the label Veryta. [Vogue UK]
  • The fashion industry's huge waste is a serious environmental hazard in the third world countries where most of our clothing is made. [UPI]
  • A particular jean factory in Lesotho, which produces denim items for the Gap and Levi's, exposed locals to burns and chest infections because of its toxic fumes. [CBS]
  • Juicy Couture's higher-priced line, Bird, is now hitting stores. Anyone who had her eye on Rachel Zoe's recommended leather leggings, now is your time. [LATimes]
  • Emma Watson, despite her professed abhorrence of celebrity clothing lines, is rumored to be in the process of launching one with the London fair trade organic brand People Tree. There's a Mischa Barton coke joke in here somewhere. [Daily Mail]
  • New York is still an attractive place for overseas tourists to go shopping, since the dollar is slightly lower again. London, where the exchange rate has only recently become more favorable, has seen a 4.7% increase in retail sales over last year for the month of June. [WWD]
  • Astoundingly, teenagers in America are spending on average 14% less on clothes than they were last year. [NYTimes]
  • Christian Dior's profits were down 27%, to $943 million, in the first six months of this year. [WWD]
  • A collage of snippets of fabric used in the late Princess Diana's wedding dress is available on eBay for £15,500, if anyone wants it. [Daily Express]
  • 13,300 Burlington Coat Factory boys' hooded sweatshirts are being recalled because their cords pose a strangulation risk. [UPI]
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<![CDATA[Dior Couture: Fabulous, Vintage-Inspired Top & Bottomlessness]]> The Christian Dior couture show in Paris today was a beautiful, if somewhat familiar, ahistorical jaunt. Part part 80s lingerie-as-outerwear, part stiff New Look peplums, and part 30s bias satin slips, the collection was topped with Stephen Jones' extraordinary hats.



Like this one, which we could imagine actually taking flight.


The collection was presented at Dior's gray salon on Avenue Montaigne. The label's PR department tried to play the move as a return to the essence of the brand, but it can't be entirely coincidental that Dior has sought to avoid the expense of a location show in a year when all the major couture houses are expecting significant drops in orders.


Makeup artist Pat McGrath gave everyone Dovima brows.


Hat or sea anemone?


Hat.

Hat or daisy?


Hat.


John Galliano named this collection "C'est la fievre de la cabine", or Cabine Fever ("cabine" in French means both "cabin" and "dressing room.") Which explains all the lingerie-inspired touches, like visible girdles, visible slips, and visible stockings.


As well as occasional total bottomlessness.


Did we say occasional?


Clearly, the whole no pants thing remains hot for fall.


Not that Mr. Galliano doesn't throw toplessness a bone now and then!


There's a reason Tyra calls it "couture pose."


Let's hold an imaginary pose-off, right now!


Even 1987 Madonna can't deny the appeal of the clavicle-pushing shoulder hunch.


But this girl wins.


Chanel Iman's hat is giving off shades of Carrie Bradshaw's wedding.


Galliano loves his sheer fabrics. And when he can cut like that, who can blame him?


Some of these dresses, however, we have seen before.


Is this what we can expect from designers right now? Is it the economy, all those "consumers want to invest in classic pieces" warnings taken too much to heart? Whatever has driven Galliano back into the archives can't but disappoint those acquainted with the range of his genius. It remains to be seen whether customers will fork over tens of thousands for dresses that are merely beautiful.


But when he's on, he's on.

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<![CDATA[The Shoes Of Spring Are Simply Terrifying]]> The New York Times has a slideshow called "Shoes From The Shows," featuring footwear from the major collections in Milan and Paris. And, please, take it from me, a person who truly loves shoes: It's absolutely horrifying. I watched it while barefoot and felt my heels tingle and ache. Let's start with the evil, twisted, bondage-inspired John Galliano for Christian Dior heel shown at left. Even if you like stilettos, even if you like tough-chick, kick-ass heels, there's a word for that shoe, and the word is: Ouch. As for Galliano's other shoes:

What the hell? Sure, high fashion is about fantasy. But walking doesn't seen possible, or probable. Creating works of art is a noble goal, but what is the purpose footwear that cannot actually be worn to walk in? It's not just about heel height; these Dolce & Gabbana monstrosities do little to contort the foot. But they ought to come with an orthopedic surgeon on speed dial. Let's not get started — again — on the Galliano shoes that involve walking on the head of a "fertility idol". But the soaring heels at Prada, which seem to be held together by raffia, actually caused runway models — whose job it is to walk — to wobble and fall.

The least-ridiculous shoes in the slideshow are the wacky befeathered numbers by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. A lady may look like she's escaped from Fraggle Rock, but at least she can walk away with dignity, since the heels are mid-height. And look! Sunglasses to match.

Shoes From the Shows [NY Times]

Earlier: Fashion Show: Dior
At Fashion Week In Milan, Prada Was A Real Problem

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<![CDATA[Fashion Show: Dior]]> John Galliano is revered for being a visionary and über-creative legend in his own time, but the collection he just showed in Paris for Christian Dior Spring 2009 was jarring to the eye. The hair was as preposterously high as the heels, and the heels themselves were either torturous bondage-esque contraptions or — in one case — crafted so that the wearer appears to be held up by tiny fertility idols. The dresses? Mostly colorful, flirty and swingy… But now and then, the skirts were so sheer that one could see all the way to Timbuktu. It all added up to disappointing. But judge for yourself: Click the photo at left for a gallery, then click any image to start the show.

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<![CDATA[Fashion Show]]> Come with me, if you will, to a faroff place called The Land of Fashion. In the Land of Fashion there are no recessions, no poverty, no troubles. It's like Oz, except people think they're qualified to talk about politics. And there's a magical little wizard named John Galliano, who takes what he likes from different eras and leaves behind all the unplesantness and mixes it all with spun sugar and gives you...the Dior Couture Show. Selected images, beginning below. (Click on any image to begin gallery)

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<![CDATA[Designer Divas Naomi Campbell And Sharon Stone Get Spanked]]>

  • Naomi Campbell has finally been charged for her April freakout at London's Heathrow airport. “Campbell is accused of three counts of assaulting a constable, one count of disorderly conduct likely to cause harassment, alarm or distress and one count of using threatening, abusive words or behavior to cabin crew, according to reports.” Her court date is set for June 20th; does anyone think that maybe a stint in juvie could set her straight? [The Guardian]
  • Christian Dior cosmetics spokesmodel Sharon Stone continues to pay for her ridiculous remarks regarding last week's earthquake in China: Dior is pulling all ads starring the Hollywood wackadoo "from all of the department stores and from all of China". Karma, baby! [NY Times]
  • Andre Leon Talley is returning to the Savannah College of Art and Design to speak at the school's May 31 commencement ceremony. Think he'll wear the "floor-length red satin robe and silver crown accented with red 'rubies'" this time around? [Paris Parfait]
  • Is Chloe Sevigny is never not working? The Big Love star and Opening Ceremony fashion designer is coming out with a limited edition tome based on her first OC look book. "You can flip all the clothing around. You can kind of, like, mix the heads with the bodies," OC's Humberto Leon tells New York magazine. [New York]
  • Stars scheduled to appear at the CFDA awards on Monday: Victoria Beckham, Eva Mendes and Maggie Gyllenhaal. Posh will be in Marc Jacobs, Mendes in Calvin Klein, and Maggie G in Proenza. [Elle UK]
  • Laura Bennett, the redhead overachiever from Project Runway has 8 million kids, a clothing line, a huge apartment, and a comic strip in the Village Voice. [Blogging Project Runway]
  • Proenza Schouler, who have been nominated for the 3rd year in a row for CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award, spill all (er, some) in an interview with Fashion Week Daily. These guys must have been nuns in a past life or something. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Patricia Field won’t be applying for welfare anytime soon. The stylist who got her start throwing glitter on the hot-pants of drag queens is now developing a line of clothing for Australian department chain, Myer. [The Australian]
  • Beauty may fade, but supermodels are forever. Miles Socha reports in WWD how old-school models are returning to big-time ad campaigns. “Linda Evangelista is starring in Prada, Naomi Campbell in Yves Saint Laurent, Claudia Schiffer in Chanel and Salvatore Ferragamo, Eva Herzigova in Louis Vuitton and Christy Turlington in Escada.” More here: [WWD]
  • Need to know how to deal with articles of clothing that have shrunk? The WSJ offers groundbreaking suggestions such as, check the label for cleaning directions, store your receipts in a shoebox, and other things my grandmother told me in 1957. [Wall Street Journal]
  • Michael Kors confesses that he used to layer legwarmers: “I not only wore them, I used to wear two or three pairs. Everything was some shade of dusty mauve and rose, what I call 'ishy colors.' At the time I was wearing a burgundy boot.” [Style.com]
  • Ugh. Members of the Chinese elite “are willing to spend their savings on designer fashions, seen as the ultimate status symbol in a communist country that is increasingly becoming preoccupied with the trappings of wealth.” [Reuters]
  • Coach Inc., plans to open 50 new retail units in China. Um, I’m sorry, but wasn’t there just a devastating earthquake there? [WWD]
  • Anthropologie: "[The store's] retail environment is an artful rendition of a French market that creates a mood of discovery and whimsy. While the merchandise is a unique mix of found objects from around the globe, the store is as close to a genuine French flea market as is the French bread sold at Safeway." [Business Week]
  • Vogue is prepping a photo shoot starring its own editorial and fashion assistants. Says one source: "...At Vogue, you have to dress like a model anyway, so this probably isn't a stretch for the various women involved." [Fashionista]
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<![CDATA[Dior Cruise Collection: Floaty Frocks For Frivolous Femmes]]> For just a moment, forget about earthquakes, cyclones, tornadoes and the recession. For just a moment, pretend you have plans next week: A cruise on a rawther large yacht. You'll need to attend a few lunches, dinners and parties, but you'll have time to bask by the pool. Oh, and you have infinite wealth and can pick anything you want from the Christian Dior 2009 Cruise collection, which was shown last night in New York at Gustavino's. An annotated gallery begins after the jump. Don't forget to send a postcard!

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<![CDATA[The Harper's (Bazaar) Index: The Couture Economy, Demi Moore, & Joan Collins' Issue With Rich Guys]]> Do people get confused by Harper's Magazine and Harper's Bazaar? After all, the luxury goods industry is not so different from Halliburton — shameless, ubiquitous, and sooo fucking talented at charging more for less. So again, we're taking things to their (ill)logical end with our own "Harper's (Bazaar) Index", inspired by Harper's famous feature, which parses the world of big oil, big money, big politics and Big Pharma and puts it into easily-digested numerical form. After the jump, Anna and I look at the April issues of both magazines and juxtapose America's economic troubles with John Galliano, mock Demi Moore's personal heroine and compare the average income of "attractive" American men with Joan Collins' anecdote about a rich, nasty Arab sheikh.

(Images created by Cheryl Campbell; click image below to enlarge) HBIndex0408033108small.jpg

Harper's Index, 2008 [Harper's] Demi's Family Style [Harper's Bazaar]

Earlier: the Harper's (Bazaar) Index: Designer Diets, Little Miss Mortimer & Lindsay Lohan's DUIsThe Harper's (Bazaar) Index: J. Lo's Diamonds, Giuliani And The Cougar AllureThe Harper's (Bazaar) Index: January 2008The Harper's (Bazaar) Index: December 2007The Harper's (Bazaar) Index: September 2007The Harper's (Bazaar) Index: August 2007 •The Harper's (Bazaar) Index: July 2007

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<![CDATA[CBS News Curmudgeon Calls Bullshit On Harper's Bazaar, Vogue]]> "Do women who look at these ads think they'll look like her if they wear these clothes... what there is of them?" asked Andy Rooney on last night's 60 Minutes. Good question! Armed with a stack of women's magazines marked with Post-Its (September 2007 Vogue, November 2007 Harper's Bazaar) the legendary grump questioned the advertising seen in periodicals sitting around the 60 Minutes offices. "I often wonder whether the magazines are doing the right thing for themselves," he mused after critiquing ads and models shilling for Dior (Jessica Stam), Michael Kors (Carmen Kass), and Lord & Taylor (Carolyn Murphy). Interestingly — tellingly — Rooney made no distinction between paid advertising and fashion editorial, even though he was ostensibly talking about "ads". Too bad he was looking at last fall's issues; we'd love to know what he thinks of those ridiculous Balenciaga boots.


Earlier: Valentino In Vogue: Models With Ennui Playing Invisible Croquet
Why Don't I Love Shoes? An Exploration In Photos

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<![CDATA[Fashion Weak]]> Editorial assistant Maria tallied up the models of color at Paris Fashion Week, and, much like New York, London and Milan, the runways were pretty white. Here are how some of the most influential designers cast their shows: Ann Demeulemeester: 29 models, all white. Balenciaga: 34 models; 2 dark-haired Spaniards, zero black, zero Asian. Celine: 42 models; 1 Asian, zero black. Chanel: 36 models; 2 Asian, zero black. Chloe: 28 models; 2 Asian, 1 dark-haired Spanish, zero black. Christian Dior: 58 models; 1 Asian, 1 black. Christian Lacroix: 30 models; zero Asian, zero black, 1 indigenous Brazilian. Jean Paul Gaultier: 36 models; 2 Asian, 2 black, 1 Latina (Omahyra). John Galliano: 52 models, 1 Asian, 1 black. Louis Vuitton: 49 models; 2 Asian, 2 black, 1 indigenous Brazilian. Vivienne Westwood: 25 models; 2 Asian, 5 black, 1 Latina. Yohji Yamamoto: 25 models, 1 Asian, zero black. Junya Watanabe avoided the blatant runway racism by covering all his models' faces with pieces of black fabric. That's one way to deal with it!

[Image from Vivienne Westwood's show via Getty.]

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<![CDATA[Press-Shy Celebrity Stylist Rachel Zoe To Star In Reality Show]]>

  • Rachel Zoe is getting her own reality show on Bravo, set to air in either June or September of this year. The show promises to bring a much-needed behind-the-scenes glimpse of the secretive world of helping celebrities shop by following one of its most obscure-yet-fascinating practitioners as she goes about the...Ugh, please just end this writer's strike already. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • But God is not altogether merciless! Stock in Crocs is in the shitter. [Rocky Mountain News]
  • Frances Bean Cobain: the new face of Chanel? Hopefully Lagerfeld et al can make her look a little better than she does in the photo dug up here. [PopCrunch]
  • In case you were wondering, Project Runway season 2 finalist Daniel Vosovic thinks that the contestants on the early seasons of the Bravo reality show were much more talented than those this season. We agree, albeit less arrogantly. [NY Mag]
  • Jay-Z just bought a small London fashion house Artful Dodger, which may explain why he's been stocking up on European currency. [Mirror UK]
  • Cosmetics company Jan Marini is being forced to take its Age Intervention Eyelash Conditioner off the market because it apparently contains the same (patented) ingredients as certain glaucoma medications. [WSJ]
  • Writing it does not make it so: We refuse to believe shiny leggings are flattering. [NY Mag]
  • Pharrell Williams to "design" a line of Louis Vuitton jewelry. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Vans is suing Sketchers, saying that only the skater slip-on shoemakers can use their iconic checkerboard print. We're sure suburban pseudo-punks everywhere agree. [NYT]
  • Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Narciso Rodriguez and Versace are just some of the designers participating in a "sustainable" fashion show on January 31st in New York. Why not just make their own fall shows sustainable, you ask? [WWD, sub req'd]
  • In either really good or really bad news for the gays (and the people who love them): Everyone's favorite no-longer-in-love designers of almost-campy "sexy" fashion, Dominco Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, are releasing the first ever D & G calendar, replete with naked men. The designers say that women are super into it. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Good news! No one look like they're being raped in the spring Dolce & Gabbana ads. [FabSugar]
  • John Galliano's Christmas cards show Christian Dior putting hot rollers in Johnny G's hair! [WWD, 1st item]
  • Luella Bartley: Ain't gonna come back to New York for the Fall 2008 shows in February. Staying home in Mother England and showing there instead. [WWD, 3rd item]
  • Yohji Yamamoto: Now doing casualwear. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Christian Louboutin: Appearing on Oprah January 18th. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • The first Laura Ashley store to open in Ashley's home country of Wales is closing. Wherever shall the Welsh procure their Little House on the Prairie garb now? [Telegraph]
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<![CDATA[Suri Cruise Is Going To Grow Up So Grounded]]>

  • 2-year old Suri Cruise has custom-made Christian Louboutins, making her the red-soled footwear company's youngest client ever. [NY Post]
  • "She was a great sport. She agreed to do something rough and tough and quite raw. It wasn't days and days of hair and makeup," says Marc Jacobs of Victoria Beckham's participation in his Spring 2008 advertising campaig [WWD, 1st item]
  • And in other Posh Spice news, Beckham has also posed in the buff for Jacobs' t-shirt line benefiting skin cancer research. Uh, because she'd rather go naked than protect her skin from harmful UVA rays with one of his crummy T-shirts? Oh wait...huh. [Mirror UK]
  • Justin Timberlake: Now designing womenswear under the J. Lindeberg label. What qualifies him, you ask? Yeah, we hate obvious punchlines. [Vogue UK]
  • The 23-year old fashion boy wonder Esteban Cortazar (whom you may best remember from the person throwing the party for the yacht catering challenge from this season's Top Chef where Howie finally got the boot) has just been tapped as the new head of the Emanuel Ungaro label. This makes us feel really insufficient. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • To celebrate record sales, a Taiwanese lingerie company celebrated with a designated day where its female employees were asked to come to work wearing the goods. [Sassybella]
  • Moschino has made a plexiglass doll — a plexiglass doll! how cuddly! — to be auctioned off as part of UNICEF's children's AIDS efforts. [Vogue UK, 7th item]
  • H&M: Now with even more organic cotton! [FabSugar]
  • Not-actually-made-from-seaweed yoga wear line Lululemon's profits tripled in the third fiscal quarter. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • In times of economic turmoil and poor consumer sentiment, J. Crew... predicts great holiday sales! God bless America. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Christian Dior cosmetics claim to have harnessed the power of stem cells in creating their new line, making for the swiftest wrinkle repair ever. Could this be the breakthrough that wins over the hearts and minds of the nation's anti-abortion lobby? One can dream! [WWD, sub req'd]
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<![CDATA[John Galliano was born Juan Carlos Antonio...]]> John Galliano was born Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano in 1960 to a Gibraltan father and Spanish mother. He moved from Gibraltar to London as a child and graduated from prestigious St. Martin's School Of Arts in 1984. In the 90s, Galliano became the first Brit to head a French couture line when he was hired to design for Givenchy. In '96 he moved to Christian Dior, and the rest is history: Dior's sales took off. Since then he has created over-the-top fantastical designs, like his Cleopatra-On-Solid Gold collection in 2004; demented desperate housewives in 2001, clinically insane queens in 2004, the spattered blood of the French Revolution in 2006. Today, in Paris, his couture collection seemed to be inspired by retro Hollywood harlots: Sheer lingerie looks, animal print, Marlene Dietrich hats and suit jackets (sometimes without sleeves) and slinky, bias-cut silver screen goddess gowns. Think L.A. Confidential meets The Blue Angel. Gallery below. (Images via Getty.)

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