<![CDATA[Jezebel: black & blue]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: black & blue]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/blackblue http://jezebel.com/tag/blackblue <![CDATA[Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways]]> Last night, five months following her first event about the lack of diversity in fashion, model-agency owner Bethann Hardison held a similar gathering with the stated goal of examining why models of color are in such short supply on the fashion industry's runways and magazine editorials. (The attention to the issue seems to be growing: At a September event called "The Lack Of The Black Image In Fashion Today", 70 people, including Naomi Campbell, showed up; Hardison's second symposium, held in October at the New York Public Library, drew 275, and last night, a group of around 200 were on hand.) Ms. Hardison (seen above left between Campbell and Iman) began yesterday's proceedings by addressing the crowd — a motley crew of models, journalists, designers, stylists and industry insiders — saying when it comes to a lack of diversity on the high fashion runways, "All of us are responsible."



Ms. Hardison then read a statement from Vogue editor-at-large Andre Leon Talley, who could not attend because he was in Chicago in conjunction with the Barack Obama campaign. (Talley was assisting with making phone calls to voters in South Carolina in support of Mr. Obama.) Talley's message was eloquent and impassioned, beginning with the fact that black people first arrived in this country as cargo and that it's been a battle for them in the hundreds of years since. He stated: "This struggle is so important to all of us... They will say this is not an issue, but it is..." Borrowing from the Obama slogan, Mr. Talley wrote that "Change we can believe in has to happen."

Next up were freelance creative director James Scully (who has worked for Tom Ford and Harper's Bazaar) and Nian Fish, creative director of KCD, the pr/event production firm responsible for many of the top runway shows. As he did in October, Mr. Scully blamed Prada for the influx of "15-year-old Russian girls" on the runway, a look he claimed other designers copied and fashion people got accustomed to seeing and not critiquing. Ms. Fish pointed to the early '90s, when many British designers and stylists came to the U.S. with a certain aesthetic and wanted only white models. She stated that she had been privy to conversations with designers and stylists who would literally say, "we already have one of those" when pointing to a black model as an excuse not to hire another.

Many other people spoke: model Lily Taylor said that when she started in the business at 15, her agency wanted her to get a nose job and she refused. Another model from Ethiopia claimed that she attended the Ford Supermodel Of The World event and saw that 80% of the models chosen were white or Eastern European. Harriet Cole of Ebony magazine pointed out that models are supposed to reflect the world and that fashion is global. "With the political season upon us, if the globe doesn't recognize black people, what does that say?" she asked, rhetorically.

A man named Roman Young from Elite Model Management, hails from Hawaii and said that the modeling agencies cannot bear all of the blame. "When a client says 'I want the girl next door,' I say 'The girl next door to who?'" Mr. Young told the crowd. Model Jessica White, who recently inked a deal with Maybelline, said that celebrities are taking the spots of many black models — after all why should marketeres get a model for their advertisements when they can get Beyoncé or Halle Berry? But, Ms. Hardison countered, neither Beyoncé nor Halle Berry ever walk the runways in Milan or Paris. Veteran model Coco Mitchell suggested that black people not purchase items from designers who do not use black models and pointed out that neither Prada nor Jil Sander ever do. Damon Dash spoke of his transition from music to fashion with wife Rachel Roy and said, "We gotta watch each others' backs." And Mr. Scully suggested the group start shopping at the Gap as Patrick Robinson is now the head designer.

Ms Hardison reminded the audience that the issue of the lack of black models is not about creating an all-black runway but diversity. "I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do," she continued. "I'm just trying to raise consciousness. We can make a change just by being here."

Ealier: Is Prada To Blame For the Lack Of Black Models?
Black Fashion Industry Insiders Ask: Where Are The Black Models?
Where Are All The Black Models? Let's Start By Asking Anna Wintour

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<![CDATA[Black Fashion Industry Insiders Ask: Where Are The Black Models?]]> Now that fashion week is over, today's WWD poses a question: Where were the black models? "Everyone is always talking about the weight issue," photographer and America's Next Top Model judge Nigel Barker says. "I think they should be talking about race." Barker says that the celebrity designers — not the ready-to-wear or couture ones — are willing to use a wider range of models. And, in our experience, it was the "outsider" shows, not held in the tents — Baby Phat/KLS, Heatherette — in which we saw black (and Asian) women walking the runway. Last Friday, at a panel discussion called "The Lack of the Black Image in Fashion Today," WWD reports that Bethann Hardison, a former model and founder of casting company Bethann Management, says "In the United States of America, this is the one industry that still has the freedom to refer to people by their color and reject them in their work. I came up in the Sixties. I feel it's the worst it's ever been."

The underrepresentation of black women on the runway comes despite the fact that, according to estimates by Targetmarketnews.com, black women alone spend more than $20 billion on apparel each year.

And though there is a lack of black models, designers and photographers, there is a noticeable increase in Asian models, designers and executives in the industry, says WWD.

Of the 101 shows and presentations posted on Style.com, 31 appear to have no black models. Most of those who did use black models opted for one or two. However, Heatherette, Diane von Furstenberg, Charles Nolan, Tracy Reese, Yigal Azrouël, Philip Lim, Marc Jacobs, Jenni Kayne and Sue Stemp were among the designers who used more than two. Heatherette, von Furstenberg and Lam each opened their shows with a black model. In fact, von Furstenberg closed her show with the opening girl, too, and the first 10 models at Heatherette appeared to be women of color.
Naomi Campbell, who flew in from London for the panel discussion, recalled how Christy Turlington once told Dolce & Gabbana, "If you don't use Naomi, you don't get us," referring to herself and Linda Evangelista. Designer Tracy Reese, who is black, was also on the panel. She said that her booker has to request certain (black) models, otherwise the agencies will not send them.

Cosmetics industry mogul Iman said she felt strongly about organizing a union for models, noting it's the only huge industry that does not have one. "Models don't have a union. They don't have a voice. No one speaks for them. Thank God I'm not a model anymore."

Not one to let a subject like this pass her by, Tyra Banks is working on a segment for her show about race in the fashion industry, according to Fashionista. Chanel Iman, who opened the Heatherette show (and was sort of on the cover of Vogue) will be a guest on the Tyra's program.

The defense of designers who opt for girls who all look alike is often that they want the focus to be on the clothes and not the models. But when a designer sends out a collection on a runway, he or she is offering up a vision of an ideal world. However you feel about the fashion industry or modeling itself, is it not disturbing that so many designers consider a perfect world to be one without any black people?

Where Were the Black Models? [WWD]
Little Diversity in Fashion: African-Americans Bemoan Their Absence in Industry [WWD]
Tyra Hearts Chanel Iman, Heatherette! [Fashionista]

Earlier: Death Of The Black Model?
Chanel Iman: Just Your Regular 16-Year-Old 'Vogue' Cover Model
Magazines Targeted To Black Women Suffer & Die
Crashin' Show: Heatherette

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