<![CDATA[Jezebel: bill blass]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: bill blass]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/billblass http://jezebel.com/tag/billblass <![CDATA[Christina Shills For Karan; Target Sells Footie PJs For Adults]]>

  • A handbag will co-star with Christina Ricci in a "Donna Karan-friendly" film directed by Sting's son, Jake Sumner. So that's what we're calling "advertising that aspires to go viral" these days? [WWD]
  • Antonio Berardi says he was "seriously misquoted" in comments that cast aspersions on Lady Gaga and her music. The designer had been quoted as calling her music "meaningless" and stating that he had rejected an offer to work with the Lady on a clothing collection. The tone of these comments was considered a little odd, not least because Lady Gaga has worn Berardi's clothing on several occasions, including in her video for "Poker Face." Berardi now says: "Whilst musically I am more of a Black Angels man, I have a huge amount of respect for Lady Gaga and everything she has achieved." And the only reason they aren't doing a clothing line is that their schedules conflict. [Grazia]
  • Lisa Loeb is finally getting an eyewear deal! This should please my friend who dressed up as her for Halloween. [Racked]
  • Hublot and Depeche Mode are collaborating on a line of 12 watches. [WWD]
  • Rihanna rocks some fierce "couture military" looks in these stills from her upcoming video for "Hard." [Nitrolicious]
  • Michael Jackson's hat and loafers from a 2001 concert sold for £22,800 at auction yesterday, nearly double the estimated price. [Mirror]
  • As rumored, Jeffrey Monteiro will in fact be taking the design reigns at the much-revived, much-abandoned, house of Bill Blass. [NYTimes]
  • Puma is officially denying that it is courting Elin Nordegren for an endorsement deal. [AdAge]
  • Or perhaps she's hammering out a deal with the Swedish company Tretorn. [WWD]
  • Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and Daisy Lowe are two of the models featured in Esprit's American relaunch campaign. [Refinery29]
  • Fashion Bomb Daily rounded up Arlenis Sosa, Jourdan Dunn, Chanel Iman, and Sessilee Lopez's editorial work for the year, and calls them the new fashion dream team. It's an impressive collection: magazine covers, that bewitching Harlem Renaissance editorial for Harper's Bazaar, and plenty of jumping for Vogue. Let's hope fashion really has decided for good to finally make room for more than one black model at a time. [FashionBombDaily]
  • "I teach at three different colleges, and I am amazed how dressed up some of the students are. Girls still come in their hoodies and pajamas, but boys come in their suits," says eternal trend-piece quote-giver Marshal Cohen. Pray tell, what colleges are these that their men flout the walked-on-hem jeans and ballcap rule? [NYTimes]
  • Adriana Lima picked up a nice Miami beach house for a song: $9 million. [WSJ]
  • eLuxury is relaunching itself next year as a web magazine called Nowness. [Independent]
  • Wow. Someone made an Anna Wintour mouse. [The Cut]
  • Smythson, the luxury house that employs Samantha Cameron, wife of David Cameron, is now Italian-owned. [ToL]
  • New Balance and Louis Vuitton have settled their intellectual property lawsuit out of court; the terms are confidential. In September, New Balance accused the luxury company of making a $590 knockoff of one of its classic sneakers. [WWD]
  • Target sells footie pajamas in adult sizes. Could this be the ultimate proof of our cultural arrested development/fetishization of childhood? [FMMH]
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<![CDATA[Kate Moss's Deep Thoughts; Obama Girls Wear French Fashion]]>

  • Kate Moss says her motto is, "Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels." [WWD]
  • In December Harper's Bazaar, Victoria Beckham reveals that she is itching to dress Emma Watson. [People]
  • Alexander Wang is now 100,000 Euros richer, thanks to the Swiss Textiles Award. [WWD]
  • Bridget Moynahan is becoming a face of Garnier Nutritioniste skincare. [WWD]
  • It took a while, but someone finally got around to identifying what Sasha and Malia wore in the official White House family portrait, and putting together a press release. (Turns out it was French children's label Dino e Lucia.) [WWD]
  • Miss J, on fun times with André Leon Talley: "I was working for Lars Nilsson at Bill Blass and André Leon Talley came over to the studio with Elizabeth Taylor's epic movie Boom!, which Karl Lagerfeld did the costuming for. We got down on some fried chicken, corn bread and popcorn shrimp and were in fits of hysterics well into the night. We went from working with models who don't eat all day to watching all of us get down on some soul food!" Says Miss J, "Sticks and stones may break your bones, but fabulous gets you most places." [The Moment]
  • Naomi Campbell held a Fashion For Relief runway show to raise money for maternal health in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. (Previous stops have included Mumbai and New York, and have raised $1 million in aid for Hurricane Katrina and the Mumbai terrorist attacks.) Campbell walked the runway for the first time in the continent of Africa, and talked about the importance of diversity in fashion. "There's definitely space [for more black models] but has there been enough effort? It was getting better but it's slipped back this year," said the model. "The world is not made up of blonde hair and blue eyes. We need to share ourselves." [Reuters]
  • Claudia Schiffer wouldn't rule out starting a clothing line. "I would consider it but it would have to be the right thing. They would need to be clothes that I would want to wear." [Telegraph]
  • Liu Wen will be the first Asian model to walk in the Victoria's Secret fashion show. [Modelinia]
  • Marc Jacobs' fiancé, Lorenzo Martone, and Ryan Brown, formerly of Elite, are starting a talent PR agency for models together called ARC NY. Lydia Hearst has signed on. [P6]
  • Mango might ink a distribution deal with a U.S. department store, like JC Penney, Macy's, Bloomingdales or Saks, to help its retail expansion. [WWD]
  • What other fashion house has ever inspired poetry upon its demise?
    "Luella, we will miss
    The frills
    The spills
    But know this

    Your work will live on
    In a sample sale shirt
    I once purchased
    Cheap as chips." [Guardian]

  • As one exits, another enters: Biba is being revived. Again. [Catwalk Queen]
  • Jimmy Choo has opened a Chinese restaurant in London. [Elle UK]
  • For $8,500, you could own a sofa in the shape of the Chanel logo. [FWD]
  • Bamboo fabric, though made from a plant that can be grown without pesticides and fertilizers, is processed with toxic solvents, just like rayon and viscose are made from wood. Eco-friendly it is not. [WSJ]
  • Nordstrom's revenues for the third quarter jumped 17% on last year's results, but the company missed its earnings forecast by one cent, which sent the share price tumbling. [TS]
  • Abercrombie & Fitch's quarterly profit fell to $38.8 million, from $63.9 million a year ago. [Reuters]
  • Sales of department store fragrances fell by 11% on last year during the first three quarters, to $1.38 billion. [WWD]
  • That hasn't stopped Gwen Stefani and her perfume partners, Coty, from putting out five new Harajuku Lovers fragrances. [WWD]
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<![CDATA[David Beckham: Designer; Madonna Has Marc Save Her Man]]>

  • It had to happen eventually. David Beckham has dipped a toe in the choppy waters of retail, becoming a Celebrity Designer. You can buy his clothes for Adidas Originals starting this fall. [WWD]
  • Madonna allegedly got her friend Marc Jacobs to write the INS and say model boy-toy Jesus Luz was a necessity to his label and deserved a US work permit. [Daily Express]
  • Jesus Luz also had a rough time backstage at his last runway gig, the Jeffrey Fashion Cares AIDS benefit in New York. Says one backstage source, "None of the other models would talk to Jesus or even look at him. They were gossiping like catty girls about how they couldn't wait for his career to fizzle out." The other male models, see, feel that Luz has been given unfair advantages because of his relationship with Madonna. Which is absolutely true, and absolutely beside the point, since any modeling career is built on lucky breaks that harden into unfair advantages. Normally models understand this better than anyone. [NYDN]
  • Brides.com had Project Runway sprite Christian Siriano design fantasy dresses for celebrity brides-to-be Uma Thurman, Amy Adams, Zooey Deschanel, and Rachel Bilson. Surprise: They're all about "drama"! [Brides.com]
  • Forever 21 is close to opening its 19,000 square foot flagship in Tokyo. [WWD]
  • Ed Hardy is now a wine you can drink. I actually noticed this about a month ago, when I dropped by my favorite bottle store one afternoon and was greeted by the owner straightening a display of $10 bottles festooned with skulls; he said branding maestro Christian Audigier's vodka ranks with Ketel One, but that only the Cabernet Sauvignon is worth trying, among the wines. The rest, he said, breaking down a box covered in giant dripping daggers and tiger heads, are too sweet. I bought a Portuguese red and walked home, thinking troubled thoughts about branding and its increasingly oblique relationship to any given product's essential qualities. [LA Times]
  • Which, if you think about it, is also the operating principle behind: Rebecca Taylor Cupcakes. [FWD]
  • Troubled department store Barneys has announced an exclusive lower-priced menswear line by Paul Smith. Suits, basics, and shirts will cost 20-30% less than the same items from the Paul Smith collection. Smith must be a busy man; this collection is on top of a sheaf of brands that includes Paul Smith London, Paul Smith Jeans, PS Paul Smith, Paul Smith Blue, Paul Smith Black. There are just so many ways to sell monkey t-shirts. [WWD]
  • Woman buys $700 Louis Vuitton Speedy size 30. Woman receives Louis Vuitton Speedy size 25. Woman returns the wrong sized bag. Louis Vuitton refuses the return, claiming it found a single human hair inside. Woman processes credit-card chargeback. And people wonder why the "luxury" industry is in trouble. [Consumerist]
  • Peter Som has had one of the roughest times in fashion as of late. After being fired from Bill Blass, the talented designer he launched his own line, only to have his financial backers beat a hasty retreat as the retail climate turned frosty last fall. Still, Marymount College gave him their designer of the year award and invited him to speak at their annual graduate fashion show. I hope the award came with some money attached, so the man can get back to making beautiful women's clothes. [WWD]
  • The creative director of Sonia Rykiel has left the company, after fewer than 18 months in charge. Gabrielle Greiss, who worked as Sonia Rykiel's chief assistant for three years before taking over the creative direction of the brand, will be replaced by a design team overseen by company president Nathalie Rykiel. [British Vogue]
  • Zac Posen recreated his fall runway show at a Houston Saks Fifth Avenue for charity. And for "market research." [WWD]
  • Banana Republic hired an Italian-trained menswear creative director away from Brooks Brothers last year, and now he's making the chain's offerings more like traditional tailoring. Only with places to put your wired accessories. [Esquire]
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<![CDATA[First Lady And Topshop Engage In Trans-Atlantic Exchange Of Fashion Know-How; Angry Mob Surrounds Luxury Goods Chief Exec]]>

  • I love it when the Brits write authoritative, informative articles that get — how would they say it? — pipped at the fact-checking post. The New York Topshop store's opening party may take place tomorrow at 11 a.m., Kate Moss may be there live in person, there may be scones and jam and DJs, and there may be capsule collections from Preen, Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders, and the latest Kate Moss line, but whatever you do, do not turn up for the party in "midtown Manhattan, one of the big apple's busiest, buzziest retail districts." The store's on Broadway near Broome St. That's in a part of town we like to call "SoHo." Yes, we know London has one as well, albeit spelled differently, but trust us, that's where the store is. [Telegraph]
  • Those French sure know from populist outrage. François-Henri Pinault, the head of luxury goods multinational PPR (and Salma Hayek's hubby) was surrounded in his car by a crowd of angry workers for the better part of an hour. Pinault was trying to leave a meeting with the European workers' council. PPR, which owns brands including Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta, announced plans to cut 1200 jobs recently. And, in a scene right out of Tout Va Bien, three Sony executives were held hostage by laid off workers at a factory the company closed in the south of France a few weeks back. [WWD]
  • "Nicole is designing everything herself," says Nicole Richie's business partner, who is apparently unaware of Richie's well-publicized deal with jewelry designer Pascal Mouawad, who does the actual work on her House of Harlow 1960 line. Planning world domination of the accessories trade, Richie announced her intention to "design" bags, belts, and shoes for spring 2010. [People]
  • Is Richard Chai going to be the new creative director of the revived Bill Blass? New owners Peacock Holdings are adamant Bill Blass will be on the New York runways come September, but they are staying tight-lipped about their choice of designer, despite the rumors that Chai is heavily favored. The reason for the odd delay in Peacock's next move, despite its stated intention of reviving the bankrupt line following its acquisition of the label from previous owners NexCen, is a six-month embargo period that was a term of purchase. [FWD]
  • Resort shows are bearing the recession's bite: Gucci, which showed its cruise collection on the runway in both New York and Rome last year, is doing a mere presentation. Dior, which had a mega-show in New York last time around, isn't going to show at all. That's right. Christian Dior canceled its resort show. Chanel will have nothing of this; Karl Lagerfeld is going ahead with a lavish resort show at Venice's Lido Beach. WWD doesn't give any details about Céline's plans — Resort 09 is supposed to be Phoebe Philo's hotly anticipated industry re-entry after her years spent raising her family far from the madding crowd. If Celine scales back its resort show, then Philo's return won't look half as big a deal as it really is. [WWD]
  • The latest images from Britney Spears' Candie's campaign are in, and, folks, it's a Photoshop of Horrors. [Daily Mail]
  • Hayden Christensen is in an ad for a Lacoste men's perfume. He's shown reaching up for the bottle, a searching look in his eyes. [JustJared]
  • Martha Stewart's shareholders might regard with interest the fact that, while Martha Stewart Omnimedia's stock price, at $2.50, has declined 67% on one year ago, Stewart's personal compensation more than doubled between 2007 and 2008, from $2.06 million to $5.4 million. (Other executives at the company's salaries declined.) Martha's daughter, Alexis Stewart, earned $209,000 for her work on the show "Whatever, Martha!" while her co-host, Jennifer Koppelman Hutt, got $130,000. Nepotism truly is priceless in this town. [WWD]
  • Fashionista road-tested three sulfate-free shampoos — they're better for the environment, and your hair — and unfortunately fell for the expensive French one. I know that pain. Once I scored a gigantic bottle of Frédéric Fekkai conditioner after doing an unusually brutal hair job, and I trudged around the world with it for almost a year. Then I ripped off the label, so I could find the product again, and carried that around for months. When I finally found it, it cost $60 or something. I didn't buy it and my hair has never been as shiny and tangle-free since. [Fashionista]
  • Speaking of Fashionista, a little bird tells me that editor Natalie Hormilla is leaving the site to pursue unknown other projects. We certainly wish her well.
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<![CDATA[A Frabjous Day's Trading For The Fabulous; Will Bill Blass Return To The Runway This September?]]>

  • Geithner's proposed new regulatory framework buoyed retail stocks by 4.4% yesterday. Saks' shares rose 15%, Ann Taylor was up 18%, Macy's climbed 10.2%, and Liz Claiborne rose 16.2%. Finally, some good fashion economic news! [WWD]
  • But it isn't all rosy on the business side. H&M's profits have fallen for the first time in five years. Their first-quarter net profit was down by 12%, which was worse than analysts had expected. [WSJ]
  • Marc Ecko Enterprises owes business partners $170 million. $100 million of that is due to Li & Fung, the global sourcing giants, who announced just yesterday that their net was down 21%. [NY Post]
  • Hugo Boss lost $20.6 million in the fourth quarter of 08. That's a decline in net of 27%. for the year. [WWD]
  • Thom Browne, whom the New York Post reported was close to bankruptcy yesterday, denies the charge in WWD. The men's wear designer says he is looking for a financial backer to grow his company — but has been slow in his search because the relationship is a crucial one and he doesn't want to sell a majority stake in his business. [WWD]
  • The Telegraph takes a tour of the Chanel handbag factory outside Paris, and finds 340 people working very slowly and carefully to complete the 180 steps in the making of a 2.55 purse. [Telegraph]
  • Simply Vera by Vera Wang's spring line is out at Kohl's. I agree with this reviewer that it looks basically cute — but one word of advice? Do not ever imitate a runway or lookbook outfit head-to-toe. It's snoozeville. [Fabsugar]
  • Last winter, Peacock Holdings LLC — a men's shirt concern, apparently — bought the Bill Blass brand from NexCen, the company which fired Peter Som and 60 Bill Blass employees without severance. At the time, Peacock said it planned to revive the ready-to-wear division within the year; they are just now looking for a creative director. [WWD]
  • Kérastase is discontinuing ten products, including their Bain Après-Soleil shampoo. You can mourn them by buying the last little pottles of goodness at 30% off online with the code VIP30. [Kérastase Paris]
  • Jane Whitfield, a designer at Louis Vuitton who shares the distinction, with fellow Briton Peter Copping, of being commonly described as "Marc Jacobs Right-Hand [Pronoun]" (or who perhaps doesn't have to share it anymore, following Copping's departure to Nina Ricci), lives in a charming centuries-old cottage near Versailles with her husband and kids. This story is entirely about her apparent knack for interiors and contains no other insight into her design work or experience. [Telegraph]
  • In China, Clinique and Sony banded together to create a 40-episode web series that just happens to feature an awful lot of Clinique and Sony products. [WSJ]
  • If you want to buy a punk outfit from Bergdorf, it will cost you $3000. [Blogue]
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<![CDATA[First, Lady GaGa Came For Your Pants, And You Said Nothing]]>

  • Women, gird your loins: Lady GaGa wants you to share her personal, pants-optional, control-top-hose-and-neon-and-sunglasses-at-night style of dress. Because in the future, everyone will have a clothing line. [Sassybella]
  • Back in the realm of actual designers, Prabal Gurung (the other guy who used to design for Bill Blass) is presenting a self-funded 20-look collection at New York fashion week. He intends to grow the label slowly as a foil against the recession. “Controlled distribution is my mantra," says Gurung. "I’m in no rush to be the next big thing." Let's hope we can somehow see Peter Som at fashion week as well. [WSJ]
  • Don't mind the layoffs, we're Forbes! In the midst of the recession, the financial magazine has some sunny news: the rich will still shop. Also, a Saudi prince spent $13,000 on sunglasses this one time. So clearly all is well. [Forbes]
  • Or, at least it's well if you're Polo: profit was much higher than expected last quarter, the company reported this morning. The company earned $1.05 per share, after analysts had expected only 86 cents. [Reuters]
  • Freida Pinto is this award season's "it" girl, if you can strike that mustard Lacroix sack from her record, that is. [WWD]
  • The owner of a store called Forever Leather plies his wares on late-night television, only in this ad, he starts ranting about Hillary Clinton's presidential bid, Eliot Spitzer's prostitution scandal, and the economy. "Tell you what, if I ran the state of New York, there'd be jobs in New York, and people would be happy, instead of strugglin', and pissin' and moanin' about how bad things are all the time. Why dontcha do something?" Then he pulls out a cardboard cut-out of the senator and says, "Thanks for nothin', Hillary Clinton." You basically have to watch it. [AdAge]
  • The hardest-working legal team in the Western hemisphere just got a new leader: American Apparel has announced that Glenn A. Weinman, former vice president general counsel and secretary for Guess, will take the same position at the California-based company, which as we all know continues to face numerous sexual-harassment lawsuits. Weinman's baptism by fire begins on February 17. [WWD]
  • California Select, American Apparel's only vintage store, has closed down. (California Select, you might remember, is what the girls from Chictopia wear in their very special American Apparel ads.) The company's expansion was the fastest in US retail history, so it's no surprise there should be some blowback. [WWD]
  • Isaac Mizrahi's first collection for Liz Claiborne is fully online, with prices and videos of Isaac getting excited about the clothes. [Liz Claiborne]
  • This video claims to offer news of the "highly speculative" LVMH Coach buy-out, but I can't stop thinking about the shockingly ugly portmanteau "handbagorexia" and what, if anything, it might mean. [The Street]
  • Now that fashion week has entered its last year at the tents, WWD has a look back at the 16 years the event called Bryant Park home. [WWD]
  • The Target micro-site for McQ Alexander McQueen for Target has launched — just 28 days before the clothes hit stores on March 4. You can only see three of the looks, though, so if you're curious about the collection we covered it when the lookbook leaked. [Target]
  • Michelle Obama had her hair done by a guy named Rahni on inauguration day. Rahni would like very much to tell you what that was like. Next up: the woman who did the first lady's nails. [The Cut]
  • Simon Doonan says: "Keeping your best clothes for parties is the same as leaving the plastic on your lampshades. There are limitations, though; nobody wants an invasive medical procedure performed by a doctor in a Cavalli sequined unitard." Which is precisely why I'm writing this news roundup in a purple silk sheath dress, green vintage crocodile pumps, and an old Hermès scarf, cigarette holder in hand, while my ocelot, Mr. Snugglepuss, purrs on the divan to my right. It just feels so much better this way. [Times of London]
  • Betsey Johnson may be cutting costs by holding a presentation instead of a runway show, but her invitations are in no way third-rate. How cute, a pot holder! [Fashionista]
  • Meanwhile, Erin Fetherson has gone high-tech, forgoing paper invitations for a special Flash-animated website for RSVPs. [Style.com]
  • Fresh after opening her first Paris store, Stella McCartney is expanding into the Middle East, and will have six stores in the region by the middle of this year. [WWD]
  • More potentially terrible fashion news: a Badgley Mischka employee was reportedly overheard talking about a "massive fight" the lover/designers had and how it might lead to a split. After recently discounting their line, at that. The story was denied by the company's representative. [New York Daily News]
  • Are you a megamogul looking for a famous face to shill for your products more effectively than average? Market research brings you all the necessary appeal/awareness rankings for celebrities in need of endorsement contracts. [WWD]
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<![CDATA[Kevin Federline: Dancer, Divorcee, Dad... Children's Designer?]]>

  • Dad of the year Kevin Federline has launched a kids' clothing line, Otzi, which, when you think about it, makes no less sense than his rapping or acting careers. [People, Perez Hilton]
  • Bill Blass files for Chapter 11, liquidates assets. [WWD]
  • Amy Winehouse says she's designing a line for Fred Perry; the designer had no comment. Of course you are, dearie. [The Sun]
  • Claudia Schiffer, for her part, is actually starting a beauty line, which she won't talk about. "With catwalk pal Elle Macpherson’s beauty range already a huge success, it looks as if the old model rivalries of the Nineties may be reignited." Or, you know, not. [Daily Mail]
  • Enigmatic couture pixie John Galliano has been made a chevalier of the French legion of honor. [WWD]
  • Christian Louboutin's new year's resolutions: “To brush my teeth three times a day, to not accept for one year to be a godfather — except for Barbie — and to not buy any real estate.” That last one is, in our experience, very hard to keep. [WWD]
  • The full range of Madonna's unladylike poses for Louis Vuitton are out. Check it. [Jossip]
  • Speaking of: With all due respect to the dead, we hated the Stephen Sprouse for LV collection when it came out in 2000, and we hate the updated version now. "In addition to using graffiti, Louis Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs updated the look by splashing Sprouse's roses on monogram wallets, handbags and scarves to spectacular effect. The collection ($175 to $2,555) is a joy to look at in these dark times, a 1980s punk Pop Art explosion of Day-Glo pink, green and orange that's a happy homage to Sprouse, who died of lung cancer in 2004." [LA Times]
  • Oh, fudge. Apparently Xtina for TopShop was just a rumor. [ElleUK]
  • A solar panel purse: clever, green, cool, really ugly. [NY Times]
  • Potentially awesome: online "sample sale" sites may be big in '09. All the savings, none of the hassle? [LA Times]
  • Nonprofit One World Action helps garment workers fight for a larger share of clothing profits. [Independent]
  • Amidst falling sales, Marc Jacobs is consolidating some of his many New York stores. [The Fashion Informer]
  • The newly-buff designer doesn't seem bothered: "'I like the fact that people are sort of commenting on my appearance...I work on these things! So to have them recognised, even if sometimes I don't like the way they're recognised, I like that they are, and I feel good that I can admit that, instead of being ashamed...I'm going to get a shameless tattoo next. That's what I think everyone should aspire to in life: being shameless.'" [Telegraph]
  • Could valenki — traditional Russian wool boots — be the new Ugg? [New York Times]
  • The inevitable Twilight fragrance will help tweens nab vampires, even though it's apparently apple-scented and Edward says specifically that Bella's scent is floral! Not that we've read it... [Perez Hilton]
  • Unconfirmed rumors are a-flyin' that Men's Vogue— already scaled down — may be kaput. [Fashionista]
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<![CDATA[Mischa Barton Launches Headband Line, Recession Hits The Catwalk]]> Mischa Barton finally launched her long awaited line of hipster headbands. They will retail for a totally reasonable £60-£120. Who doesn't want to pay over $100 for a piece of Barton-branded string? [WWD, Beauty Confessional]

  • Bill Blass Couture closed Friday, laying off 60-plus employees without severance. [WWD]
  • At least someone is doing well: Stuart Weitzman opens three new stores in Mexico, Greece, and St. Barths. Rich people still need fabulous shoes, y'know. [WWD]
  • In an attempt to lure in more last-minute buyers, Macy's and H&M have announced that they will be staying open round-the-clock on the days leading up to Christmas. [WSJ]
  • British department store Selfridges is reportedly guilty of “unbelievable” safety errors following an asbestos scare. Gives new meaning to the phrase "shop 'til you drop."[Independent]
  • Charity organization Souls4Souls filed a federal lawsuit after finding moccasins intended for needy Africans for sale on ebay. [WWD]
  • Is American Apparel in trouble? Dov Charney’s hipster empire received a three-month extension on a debt due to mature next month. [WWD]
  • Retailers are edgy about the decreased shopper turnout over the last holiday shopping weekend. [ABC]
  • And maybe they should be, given the “whiteout” storms that hit the Midwest and Northeast. [WSJ]
  • Ailing stores continue to play the how-low-can-we-go game. [WSJ]
  • And in other, totally not surprising news, sales are up for off-price footwear brands like TJ Maxx, Marshalls, and DSW. [WWD]
  • Fewer shoppers are buying on credit. [WWD]
  • Agent Provocateur launches new, fantastical-sounding ad campaign, titled “Pan and the Vestry of Virgins.” [WWD]
  • Another casualty of the recession: catwalk shows. Wonder what this means for the moddles! [Guardian]

[Images via

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<![CDATA[Dov Charney's Sexual Harassment Woes Are A "Grave Injustice"]]>

  • In a video, skeevy CEO Dov Charney claims that "there's a conspiracy against celebrities in the Hollywood area" and that "the judges are generally patriarchal, they don't want to give celebrities a chance." Down with the patriarchy! [The Street]
  • Word is, Katie Holmes shot her Miu Miu campaign yesterday. [Fashionologie]
  • More inaugural gown sketches! We're not feeling 'em. [Politico]
  • Colombian bulletproof jackets were inspired by our trigger-happy Veep. “This is a new market for us. Dick Cheney has helped raise awareness of accidents." [Think Progress]
  • Thakoon, maker of Michelle Obama's "reverse kimono" DNC dress, has discontinued the design. [WSJ]
  • Rich kid Peaches Geldof's music and fashion tips! "Most people who know me know I don’t follow fashion. I mean, I just dyed the tips of my hair blue for God’s sake. I hate stars who look totally overstyled, like Victoria Beckham; give me Courtney Love, with her babydoll nighties and ripped fishnet tights, any day. For me, fashion is about pushing boundaries. Vivienne Westwood once told me that people who aren’t creative or have no love for art don’t dress up, I asked her why people should and she replied simply, 'Because it’s fun.' Sage advice." [Nylon]
  • DNR, the men's trade fashion mag, has been folded into WWD. [Fashionista]
  • Steve & Barry's liquidates. [WWD]
  • So does Bill Blass New York. [WWD]
  • Cathy Horyn's all about Norma Kamali for Wal-Mart. Maybe we can call it...VallMa? [New York Times]
  • Gap surpasses Wall Street's third quarter expectations. [Reuters]
  • Liz Claiborne, however, is hit hard. [WWD]
  • 80's icon Romeo Gigli is back, baby. "I have never created for 'someone' in particular, always for 'anyone' willing to take a journey of the imagination made up of dissonant harmonies, freedom and sharing." [IHT]
  • Hoping to offset shopping malaise, Fifth Avenue outdoes itself with Christmas decorations. [IHT]
  • Madonna's astroturf special? It's Vuitton. [New York]
  • Mod maven Mary Quant unveils her special-edition stamp. [Sassybella]
  • Modestly belly-buttoned moddle Karolina Kurkova has been voted "World's Sexiest Woman" by E. [InventorSpot]
  • Beyonce's Japanese ads for “Samantha Thavasa” handbags — with singer Takuya Kimura — are pretty cool. [LifeFiles]
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<![CDATA[Kate Moss For TopShop Sells Out In Fifteen Minutes]]>

  • Kate Moss' line for TopShop sells out in 15 minutes! "Crowds of young women, who started queuing at 7.45am, scooped up the must have designer gear without even trying it on. " [Daily Mail]
  • Rachel Weisz on method acting:"We were talking about the character of Penelope when I suddenly ran upstairs and brought down these old boots. They’re basically a cross between a clown boot and a Victorian lace-up boot....They suit Penelope because they don’t go with anything, they’re really clumpy and they gave me a funny walk. The character came entirely out of those boots — I wear them in every single scene!" If shleppy shoes equal verite, color me Stella Adler! [ElleUK]
  • Piaf-impersonator Marion Cotillard signed by Dior. [WWD]
  • Lagerfeld descends upon the Green Mountain State. He'll be the cadaverous one in the high collar who calls you "demode." [Fashionista]
  • Peter Som leaves Bill Blass. “This was an extremely difficult decision for me...At this time, however, I have chosen to focus on my own namesake collection and the development of the Peter Som brand.” [WWD]
  • NARS sells condoms. With Orgasm blush, natch. They also hedge their bets with a "ways to say no" package which, yes, also comes with the blush. As long as you have Orgasm! Sales benefit Amfar programs to promote global safe sex education initiatives. [BeautyAddict]
  • Louboutin ups the ante with an 8" heel. The truly fashion-forward amongst us sigh up for stiltwalking, purchase matching Uncle Sam outfits. [Guardian]
  • Way to de-sexy underwear moddles: "According to Make Me A Supermodel stylist Tiana Wallace, just one slice (of bread) wedged in the front of a pair of briefs is the secret ingredient to achieving the sought-after "smooth look.'' The crumb potential sounds uncomfy! [News.com.au]
  • As elections approach, American Apparel amps up its "Legalize LA" campaign. [Reuters]
  • Bluefly.com introduces shop-by-character Gossip Girl pages. Best part? You can skip the tedious "say-you-love-me-first" plotline! [Extra]
  • Want to see something weird? Warning: there's music. [Live Science]
  • Levi's introduces the new "Ultimate Lift 544 jeans." To wear with the new ass bras, perhaps? [WWD]
  • Estee Lauder is up, but cautious. [Reuters]
  • Did Paul Smith plagiarize this artist's work? [Flight404]
  • Just in time for the recession, Tom Ford introduces $9,240 fur boots "calculated to appeal to wealthy glam junkies and luxury ski freaks in places like Aspen and Gstaad." Barf. [Luxist via New York]
  • Even Rachel Roy can't find anything in picked-over NYC thrift stores! [FabSugar]
  • Just in time for Halloween, Beyonce grotesque distorted by Armani photoshoppers! [Photoshop Disasters]
  • U.S. retailers cut orders, unsurprisingly; designers worry. [WWD]
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<![CDATA[Lindsay Lohan: Fashion Executive]]>

  • After years of establishing her reliability and commitment to quality, LiLo has gone all weirdly entrepreneurial on us! She's launched her own brand development company. "With Lohan serving as the public face and a source of ideas, Beverly Hills-based Stay Gold LLC is developing merchandise under the label 6126." The merch so far is "leggings." They're developing self-tanner. One can only assume really ratty wigs are on the drawing board. [WWD]
  • Now that the industry is getting more diverse, Naomi Campbell's work here is done. “This time they [designers and editors] have stepped it up. I feel positive. That means that I can go soon.” Okay, Siddhartha, you do that. [Times of London]
  • The guy who designed Sarah Palin's rimless specs is, in fact, voting for Change. [CNN]
  • Which is kinda harsh, really, since his sales have quadrupled since the conventions! [NYDN]
  • Apparently Nicole Farhi's moddles all sported Obama buttons on the runway "instead of brooches". Never mind that they're all probably under 18 and Russian! [Style.com]
  • This is like Fashion mad libs! Rodarte and Lexus are making a scented candle. Yes. [MediaBistro]
  • This new geriatric Sartorialist is like my dream come to life. No, really. 'Advanced Style' "documents street style and fashion of the mature and wizened. Our aim is to take photos of elders with a unique sense of personal style that has developed with age." [NY Mag]
  • Have you heard?! Apparently nothing still comes between Brooke Shields and her Calvins! Certainly not carbs. [People]
  • "Carolyn Rafaelian is just a small-business-owning single mom with three kids to raise, but the bigwigs at Juicy Couture don't care." They've apparently ripped off this bangle which she sells to Henri Bendel and Saks. Twirling their mustaches, one assumes. [New York Post]
  • Even if the girls are too thin, the clothes are great on the new 90210. Wait, why am I saying that like it's an unusual conflict? [Variety]
  • Michael Vollbracht swoops in to claim Bill Blass's society-ladies-of-a-certain-age clientele: The collection "was delightfully old-fashioned and completely oblivious to the financial meltdown happening somewhere downtown." [NY Times]
  • The life of a "body part model" is a busy one. [Mirror]
  • Apparently Viktor and Rolf require chocolates at all their awesome shows. Take off the last part, and they have a lot in common with us. [Dazed Digital]
  • Well, fuck. Topshop NYC's not opening until the Spring. [FT]
  • For those gals with a season pass on the SATC tour bus, good news: "Select pieces from Patricia Field's Destination Style New York collection can be pre-ordered online before her limited-run HSN line premieres on September 23 for five nights." [Extra]
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<![CDATA[Nina Garcia: Just As Imperious In Real Life As On Reality TV]]>

  • It's not just for the cameras! Bad Cop Project Runway judge Nina Garcia queen bees it up at MarieClaire, reups for Runway. [WWD]
  • Oh I'm sure this wasn't staged: watch Heidi Montag's 'Heidiwood' clothes fly off the racks at the Kitson boutique while Heidi preens, poses and signs autographs in front of a conspicuous sign announcing that the Lauren Conrad line is half off. Then LC just happens to walk by. Cameras follow them both, natch. [TMZ]
  • French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld could give a toss what PETA thinks. Well, except that she just did a whole defiantly pro-fur photo shoot to piss them off. [Fashion Intelligentsia]
  • Despite mixed reviews, Christian Siriano's collection for Bluefly is almost sold out. [Sassybella]
  • Prince Charles' garden-based "Highgrove" skincare line sells out too. [WWD]
  • Shaun White, the red-haired snowboarder who's apparently known as "the flying tomato" has launched a young men's line for Target. "White's favorite piece is a black-and-white plaid button-down ($12.99 boys, $24.99 young adults) with contrast front pockets that would look at home in any skate park in America. He's also fond of the black skinny fit jeans ($29.99), having recently converted from a baggier silhouette. How tight are we talking? White doesn't like his jeans to be "ridiculously tight, unless the occasion calls for it." [Los Angeles Times]
  • Cold comfort: Kate Moss's home has depreciated. [Independent]
  • Whether or not Peter Som is leaving Bill Blass (and why is this so mysterious?!) he'll be showing at Fashion Week in a limited capacity. [ElleUK]
  • Rem Koolhaas's new Prada Foundation's headquarters? Even more of "a cross between a Soviet housing complex, a prison, and a midwestern factory of the future." [Media Bistro]
  • That 12-year-old fashion blogger? Now she's gonna be in the New York Times. [New York Magazine]
  • Mischa Barton's handbags are now on sale. Why does everyone keep calling them "vintage-inspired?" [Asos]
  • More on that "Marilyn Monroe" clothing line. You may not have heard of the company, "UK Manufacturer Blues Clothing," but it's still kind of a big deal: "The posthumous clothing label is the first fruit of the controversial 2007 court case which ruled that the actress's heirs no longer own the exclusive rights to her likeness." [The Independent]
  • After studying in America, designer Adama Kargbo returned to her native Sierra Leone to start a fashion line called Aschobi “Sierra Leone isn't the first place you'd think of finding couture, but the country is changing.” [Global Voices Online]
  • Hard times: Ralph Lauren alters pay structure. [WWD]
  • Nike has pulled its Hyperdunk campaign after some people construed one ad as being homophobic. "The crotch of the player dunking was planted firmly in the other player's face. The ad sported a large tag line: "That Ain't Right." Earlier, Nike had said the ads were "based purely upon a common insight from within the game of basketball — the athletic feat of dunking on the opposition, and is not intended to be offensive.""Nike pointed to its record as a gay-rights advocate...but pulled the stupid-sounding poster, which I objected to on grammatical grounds. [CNN]
  • Miguel Caballero, "the world's only producer of designer bulletproof fashion," has cornered the paranoid millionaire market. "His new collection includes blazers, raincoats and suede jackets, some replete with a comforting stab-proof lining. Customers get to select from three levels of ballistic protection. For instance, a polo shirt that can withstand a slug from a 9-mm revolver costs roughly $7,500; a version for about $9,800 protects wearers from automatic weapons, including mini-Uzis." Perhaps not surprisingly, Caballero got his start in Columbia, where the business has thrived. Switzerland, he says, is their worst customer. [Time]
  • Say it ain't so! Crocs are losing their appeal, money. Best quote: "Made from a spongy material known as Croslite, Crocs have been worn by President Bush, Al Pacino and Prince William's girlfriend, Kate Middleton." [Guardian]
  • Purely theoretical musings on Justin Timberlake, fashion week. "Though JT has been scarce in front rows before, he may want to build his fashion cred now that he's the new face of Givenchy, and the backing behind sportswear label William Rast. And let's not forget that some brands pay very big money to get "fans" to attend their catwalks - and Miss Sixty, Rock & Republic, and Y-3 have a track record of getting crazy flashbulb momnts at their shows, and let's not forget Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger." [Fashionista]
  • MAC collabs with Indian designer Manish Arora. "The line comprises a six-shade eye shadow compact, dubbed Eyes On Manish; two lipsticks; two hues of Lipglass, and two shades of Powder Blush." [WWD]
  • More women choosing to go gray. Yay! [ Houston Chronicle]
  • Celebrity Design 101: "You're not Coco Chanel." [New York Magazine]
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<![CDATA[Bob Geldof's Non Drug-Abusing Daughter May Or May Not Get A Fashion Line]]>

  • First, word was that annoying Brit It Pixie Geldof (sister of Peaches… naturally) was turning designer. "Pixie, 17, has just been offered an estimated £80,000 deal with high street chain New Look to design and model an eight piece fashion range." [Boldface ours.] [Mirror]
  • But before we could even get properly irritated, we saw this: "Rumours are flying this morning that Pixie Geldof has signed an £80,000 deal to design a collection for New Look. However we can confirm that she has not signed a deal with the high street giant. We spoke to New Look this morning who told us, ' we admire Pixie's style very much and she is definitely someone we would like to work with in the near future', but a deal has not as of yet been signed." [ElleUK]
  • More on Jessica Simpson's inexplicable dress line. [WWD]
  • Michael Kors loves Mad Men: "Mad Men" is undeniably stylish—those super graphic titles, the Bernard Herrmann-esque score, the lighting…and then, obviously, I mean, the clothes. The show is like your terribly chic friend who was valedictorian. It gets you on every level." [Style.com]
  • The horror! The horror! Pantyhose for men! (well, frumpy ones.) [Random Good Stuff]
  • L'Oreal USA names new Luxury Products Chief [WWD]
  • Apparently the Olympics have influenced this summer's "sporty style." [Fashionista]
  • So, let's say Alexander McQueen collaborated with Puma. Well, the results would be exactly as ridiculous as you might have guessed! "The Puma AMQ line has most recently created a chocolate-brown crocodile leather kick that manages to combine urban style (note the high-top build) with high fashion — plus a little bit of a jungle vibe mixed in. "There is a part of me that is very couture, and a part of me that is very street," the designer explains." They're $3K, of course. [BlackBook.]
  • The official word is that, rumors to the contrary, Peter Som was sticking with his man, Bill Blass. [Conde Nast Portfolio]
  • But what about this, from Fashionista? "After only three collections, Peter Som has submitted his resignation at Bill Blass. Perhaps he can't handle the stress of designing more than one collection? Let's face it, he's no Marc or Karl.Word is management at Nexcen is keen on keeping him on board, at least in name, until they can sell the brand." [Fashionista]
  • And if Elle UK is wrong? I don't wanna be right! [ElleUK]
  • Breaking:Peter Som has left Bill Blass. [WWD]
  • Gisele Bunchen and beau Tom Brady slash asking prices on their NYC property listings! No, we still can't afford them. [WSJ]
  • And speaking of expensive stuff, Burberry expands its obnoxious but still kinda cute (who doesn't like little English children?!) kids' line. "Best sellers include trench coats and dresses that match the design of the men's and womenswear collections (and the campaign sweetly mirrors that of the main collections, which this season features Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Sam Riley); back to school sales alone have boosted profits no end, with the mini quilted coats for both boys and girls having sold out within a week." [VogueUK]
  • So, WWD100, which ranks designers by recognizability, makes TOMMY HILFIGER #1! Over THE KAISER, PEOPLE! [Breitbart]
  • Recession? We didn't hear you - we were wearing our diamond-encrusted ear buds. "DEOS Diamond [www.deos-diamond.com] ear phone covers fit that bill nicely—the collection of covers, which come with colored, clear, or black VS-quality diamonds set into titanium—are designed by Allison Lee Zeiss (an alum of Vera Wang's fine jewelry line) and cost between $3,500 and $40,000, depending on the number and color of diamonds. The sparkly little sleeves slide onto the standard white Apple ear buds to add instant glam to phone or pod." [Style.com]
  • Or maybe I was blinded by my jeweled contacts. [New York Magazine]
  • Christian Lacroix: the creative millionaire's choice. [Dazed Digital]
  • Speaking of awesomeness, the Nanette Lepore boutique at Bloomingdale's has this rad high-tech mirror that allows you to 'virtually try on' clothes, superimposing the digital images over your reflection. Obviously the effect is kinda paper doll and you have no idea what you'd actually look like in the clothes, but...cool, no? [The Life Files]
  • Banana Republic shouts repeatedly that it is a "lifetsyle brand," goes higher-end. Here's a good point a friend made to me when J.Crew went all high-end: "if you had that kind of money, why spend it at J. Crew?" Ditto, Banana. [WWD]
  • Patyka's Biokaliftin launches (really expensive) organic cosmceuticals. [Style.com]
  • Designers "give back." [ElleUK]
  • Anglophiles holla back: Liberty of London now online! [ElleUK]
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<![CDATA[Will Italian Vogue Break With Fashion Mag Tradition, Feature Black Models?]]>

  • Europeans are always more progressive than Americans. Rumor is, Italian Vogue may be producing a cover featuring only black models. [Fashionista]
  • Oh. My. God. High School Musical and Hannah Montana-inspired Crocs, soon available at a store near you. [Yahoo]
  • Francis Ford Coppola and Sofia Coppola will be the next faces of Louis Vuitton's "core values" campaign (the very same campaign in which Keith Richards agreed to participate in exchange for a LV monogrammed guitar case.) What do you think the Coppolas get out of this? An LV director's chair? An LV vinyard? [WWD, 1st item]
  • "Boyfriend" jackets are big for spring. But Peter Som says the ones he designed for Bill Blass are inspired by Hillary Clinton and Michelle Obama. [WSJ]
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<![CDATA[Future First Ladies Should Be Judged Solely On Fashion]]> We never tire of discussing the politics of style (or is it the style of politics?) and this country's increasingly-manic presidential campaign is inspiring lots of fashion-minded folk to weigh in. (Like Mark Fiore and his genius animated spoof on Project Runway and the Clinton campaign.) The question being posed today is, who would make a more stylish First Lady: Michelle Obama or Cindy McCain? The Guardian breaks down the two women's "qualifications" into the following categories: hairstyle, accessories, "x-factor," pre-campaign, occasion wear, and power suit. Should anyone even be evaluating these women for their preparedness for a position based on something as superficial as fashion? Probably not. But, hell, it's Friday. After the jump, we respond (in a highly partisan manner) to the Guardian's rankings and style the women for such First Lady events such as standing patiently at inauguration ceremonies and kissing sick babies in hospitals.

Hair Cindy McCain: They say: "Cindy's is white-picket-fence hair: sprayed into submission by a ton of Elnett, she's a blonde Marcia Cross in Desperate Housewives. In fact, if the Topshop salon had "Republican hair" listed on its blow-dry menu there would surely be a picture of Cindy McCain beside it." We say: Cracked out (pill habit!) former pageant queen. What happens when the JonBenets of the world get to actually grow up. Michelle Obama: They say: "Michelle's relaxed, flicked-up bob - particularly when she's accessorising with pearls - is reminiscent of Jackie Kennedy and could also be described as deeply American." We say: Called it ages ago. Their verdict: "[T]he Democratic bob has the edge over Cindy's neurotic blonde do, as it has more than a hint of Diana Ross (60s Supremes era) about it, and that can only be a good thing for a potential first lady. Our verdict: Michelle FTW, natch. Is this even a fair competition?

Accessories Cindy McCain: They say: "[She's been] carrying a Chanel bag [since] 2004. OK, it's not the classic 2.55, but if memory serves, this was the shape to carry that year." We say: An expensive bag does not a woman of style make. Michelle Obama: They say: "Michelle is fighting a negative campaign in those elasticated knee-length boots with skinny mid-height heel." We say: Ain't nothing wrong with those boots. Their verdict: "Cindy has the edge....Chanel trumps LK Bennett every time." Our verdict: Someone's hitting the same pill bottle as Cindy McC? Michelle, FTW, natch.

X-Factor
Cindy McCain:
They say: "Cindy is some way towards achieving this. Her clothing consistency is satisfying: always immaculate, with never a hair out of place."
We say: When you use so much hairspray that never a hair is out of place, that earns you a big red 'X', not "x-factor".
Michelle Obama:
They say: "She's starting to own the puffed sleeve - it works for her on blouses and even on a red tailored suit that she wore recently."
We say: Her look is great, but it's her spirit that's magnetic. That's what real x-factors are about.
Their verdict: "[McCain's] striving for perfection is also her un-doing: she doesn't know how to have fun with fashion."
Our verdict: Michelle FTW, natch.

Pre-Campaign
Cindy McCain:
They say: "Cindy is the more seasoned competitor...and looks as if she has more of a handle on White House chic....[S]he knows the power of a colour-blocked suit, simple jewellery and what look to be Chanel two-tone shoes."
We say: Terrifying: Then, now, always.
Michelle Obama:
They say: "Michelle...looks sartorially unsure of herself, the pastels fighting with the austere ankle-length black skirt and long-line coat."
We say: Michelle's not unsure of herself. About anything. Have they never heard the woman speak?
Their verdict: "In politics an almost cartoon-ish approach to dressing often works best - and Cindy worked that out first."
My verdict: WTF?! Michelle FTW, natch.


Occasion Wear
Cindy McCain:
They say: "Cindy, however, was a rodeo queen in Arizona in 1968 and it shows here. Hers is a look that worked for Krystal Carrington, but is less successful in the political context."
We say: Amen to that.
Michelle Obama:
They say: "[D]esigners will be falling over themselves to dress her if she becomes first lady."
We say: Amen to that.
Their verdict: "Michelle is the front-runner here."
Our verdict: Michelle FTW, natch.


The Power Suit
Cindy McCain:
They say: "Cindy delivers a masterclass in the trouser suit...Cindy's trouser suits have nothing of the woman-in-a-man's world about them; for her they look to be a positive choice."
We say: They do recall that they also called her a rodeo queen, right?
Michelle Obama
They say: "Michelle understands how to work tweed...It's a fabric that can be dowdy but the cut of the suit with the nipped-in waist shows off Michelle's figure in a way that immediately neutralises any frumpiness. Miuccia Prada would be proud."
We say: They do know they also compared her to Jackie, right?
Their verdict: "It's a draw."
My verdict: Michelle FTW, natch. It's not even a contest.


As we all know, if you're First Lady, you've gotta outfit yourself wholly in American designers. Here's what I think each of them should wear if they find themselves at the inauguration itself:
firstladyinauguration.gif
All eyes would be on Michelle in this sharp blue-gray Calvin Klein sheath (l) and this Ralph Lauren ensemble (R) could easily transition from the Hill to the rodeo.


And then at the Inaugural Ball:
firstladyball.gif
The Obamas are the party of youth and revolution! Which is why Michelle Obama would shine in this gown (L) by up-and-coming youngster Frank Tell Koblitz. (Hey, he even got a shout-out in Teen Vogue this month: If that doesn't spell "revolution" I don't know what does. Also, he's one of the only designers who seems to get that fashion isn't just for white women!) And Cindy McCain would need a dress whose volume could match her massive hair: Thank goodness for this Bill Blass (R).


Or at a hospital, visiting sick kiddies, which is seems to be a real popular First Lady activity:
firstladykissingbabies.gif
Sparkly flowers by Peter Som would make the kids smile when worn by Michelle, and hot pink by Diane von Furstenberg for Cindy would, well, at least distract them from their pain.

Project Hillary [Mark Fiore]
Dressed for power? [Guardian]

[Images via AP except for Frank Tell image, courtesy of Dan Lecca.]

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<![CDATA[Nothing Says "Maturity" Quite Like Heidi Montag]]>

  • Clothing line Anchor Blue has signed Heidi Montag to be its new face. Because execs want to appeal to a "slightly older" demographic. No, really. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Would you like to be Erin O'Connor's escort to a show during London Fashion Week? Well lucky for you she's holding a contest with Vogue UK. To win her hand (or, you know, the seat next to her) all you have to do is compose her a poem. Start work-shopping those dirty limericks here! [Vogue UK]
  • Thrilling/disturbing news: Steve & Barry's has inked a licensing deal allowing them to create and sell t-shirts bearing images and logos from The Little Rascals, The Andy Griffith Show, The Beverly Hillbillies, The Brady Bunch, The Love Boat, The Twilight Zone, Happy Days, Laverne & Shirley, Cheers and Beverly Hills 90210. And if you feel a twinge of sadness that the average Steve & Barry's customer has probably never known the joy of watching an episode of Laverne & Shirley, just think of the poor children in China who will be sewing them. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • So the family of the actual Ossie Clark, whose namesake label was just revived during the opening of London Fashion Week, says they never gave anyone permission to use the house's name. And are now taking legal action. Awkward. [WWD, 4th item]
  • Talk about expensive shit! Remember those Van Cleef & Arpels-Earnest Sewn jeans we told you about? They retail for between $9,700 and $11,300. Also, they are fug. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • "I couldn't fit into my [Bill] Blass sample. I guess it's because I'm not an 18-year-old Russian." Socialite Plum Sykes: just like us! [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Ooh la la: Heidi Klum and Seal on the cover of French ELLE! [Sassybella]
  • Alessandra Gucci (daughter of dead Maurizio) is launching her own accessories line under the label AG, since the Gucci clan won't let any of its usurping-relatives use the family name to promote their own half-wit businesses. But Alessandra's business sounds less half-wit than most: It's all alligator handbags in pretty colors. And the girl does have a degree in economics, so good for her? [WWD, 2nd item]
  • Perry Ellis revenues are down. Insert instinctual defensive remark about the halycon days of Marc Jacobs and his grunge collection. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Jones Apparel also doing not so good. That's a recession for you, folks! [Reuters]
  • Liz Claiborne is thisclose to selling off Ellen Tracy to (who else) a private equity firm. The sale will fetch $50 million, which...seems kind of low, albeit to someone who will never see that kind of cash ever. [NY Post]
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<![CDATA[This Fall, We'll All Be Perfectly Princessy Ophelias Channeling David Bowie]]> Fashion week stomps on! Yesterday's collections included Derek Lam, Tommy Hilfiger, Reem Acra, Calvin Klein, Bill Blass and Zac Posen. The day saw lots of tragically romantic dresses (Ophelias on opium) and lots of skinny, menswear-inspired suits for women (David Bowie). Derek Lam's collection was dominated by dark colors, but instead of somber, the mood was deeply rich and romantic. Plush coats, matchy-matchy suits and party dresses for incurable flirts. Tommy Hilfiger's extremely simplistic, basic designs were almost too safe; Reem Acra whipped up whimsical red-carpet fantasies. As for Bill Blass, designed by Peter Som, there were polished, rich bitch outfits for uptown heiresses. Calvin Klein is designing for a future happening right now, and if you love minimalism, he delivers. For the maximalists (like myself): Zac Posen killed it with Disney-princess gowns and '80s goth-Lolita crinolines (the 8th grader inside me weeps for the pink dress!) Sure, his ridiculous shoes made model Karen Elson fall, (above left) but Diddy was there! To help her up! Jennifer and I designate the good, the bad and the ugly in annotated galleries located after the jump.

zacposenfalldiddy020808.jpg

Derek Lam:

Tommy Hilfiger:

Reem Acra:

Zac Posen:

Calvin Klein:

Bill Blass:

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<![CDATA[Should Africa Get Royalties For Matthew Williamson's Latest Collection?]]>

  • The Ethiopian Intellectual Property Office — the same outfit that shook down meek little Starbucks! — is charging British designer Matthew Williamson with the theft of traditional African fabric patterns, to which his rep says: "Historically, Matthew Williamson bases his collections on the idea of a modern girl who is a global traveler. Her style is in part defined by incorporating many different cultures, traditions and customs. Nobody has the right to claim these designs as their own. " [Vogue UK]
  • To which the Ethiopian Intellectual Property Office replies: "We are very unhappy with the actions of Mr Williamson. These are the dresses of our mothers and grandmothers. They symbolise our identity, faith and national pride. Nobody has the right to claim these designs as their own." [Sassybella]
  • Okay, can we just add: it's "his" own, guys. Singular.
  • Speaking of intellectual property! Thanks in advance, Elle.com for the pic of Williamson's stylings!
  • More fun with billable hours! Vera Wang has settled out of court with The Vera Company over the whole trademark infringement thing involving Wang, uh, using her own name on her Kohl's line, Simply Vera. Says an unnamed source, "There really is only one Vera- The Vera Company. Vera Wang is Vera Wang. The Vera brand, on the other hand, has been around since the 1940's." And if a brand falls in the forties and no one remembers its name... [Fashion Lawyer]
  • "Blass is all about opposites. Like a summer print, but in a wool, with an ease to it." Peter Som re: his attempt to finally resuscitate Bill Blass. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Only the French! There's a whole kerfuffle now over the French Justice Minister having posed in Dior in Paris Match magazine. [Times of London]
  • Calvin Klein creative Director Kevin Carrigan: "What I do is work on fitting pieces into the design puzzle. And actually, it is quite a logical, scientific process. You create a design and then you might apply it to a different fabric - say, a patent leather - and the emotion changes....It's a big experiment." Uhhhhh, we're gonna have to go with "high." [Vogue UK]
  • Times of London Fashion Editor Lisa Armstrong has collaborated with Louis Vuitton to create the "ultimate travel bag." Oh, the Brits, so forward-thinking when it comes to the role of the press. The Pulitzer committee would probs never let Robin Givhan do this. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • There was a party Tuesday night sponsored by Donna Karan's Urban Zen initiative. Donna Karan wasn't there, but off vacationing in Parrot Cay. Which is exactly what we would be doing if we had found a male model to shtup us. [Fashion Week Daily]
  • Yay! We love video footage of Krazy Karl! [Sassybella]
  • File this under 'You know a president is already a lame duck when': First Lady Laura Bush will be attending New York Fashion Week come February. [WWD, 1st item]
  • Don't hate on Marc Jacobs, people! He donated toys for the kiddies for Christmas! [WWD, 2nd item]
  • Marit Allen, costume designer of Mrs. Doubtfire and Brokeback Mountain, died last month in Australia. [NYT]
  • "Someone was mean to me once, so I deserve to be here," said unfortunately-Botoxed Lisa Kudrow at a Dress for Success event yesterday. [WWD, 3rd item]
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<![CDATA[First Impressions: Belt-Tightening And Facelifts At Bill Blass]]> (Click through for more)

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<![CDATA[Ralph Lauren Is Really F'ing Rich, And Not Particularly Embarrassed About It!]]>

  • Everyone's favorite self-hating Jew, Ralph Lifshitz, is the highest-paid "vendor" (what they call "manufacturers" that don't really manufacture) in apparel. No really, it's not just a fantasy image he uses to get you to buy those horrid Big Pony shirts: dude is loaded. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Reese Witherspoon is the new face of Avon. Oooooh, edgy! We eagerly await the Jake Gyllenhaal guyliner line. [WWD, 1st item]
  • True Religion denim is making the grand, yet inevitable, business model leap into the world of fragrance. Which reminds us of someone who once told us that it's time to wash your jeans when you can smell your own crotch. Now you can just take advantage of lifestyle brand synergy! [WWD, 3rd item]
  • Memo to Derek Lam: Starting your tenure at troubled Bill Blass with a fur line? And guaranteeing the wrath of PETA? Uh, that's a choice. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • P. Diddy is making Sean John for the ladies. As if it wasn't for the ladies all along. [WWD, sub req'd]
  • Reversing the trend of English designers returning to their mother country for London Fashion Week after long histories showing in New York and Milan/Paris, English label Preen is leaving home and headed to New York, where magazine editors will actually see its clothes. [Vogue UK]
  • We read about London department store Harvey Nichols installing scratch-and-sniff windows for the launch of the new Marc Jacobs fragrance Daisy... and all we could think is of the number of unsanitized hands touching the same surface and the potential number of HPV cases spread. [Vogue UK]
  • Model Daisy Lowe, the bastard child (literally) of textiles designer Daisy Lowe and Mr. Gwen Stefani Gavin Rossdale, is the new face of Burberry. [Vogue UK]
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