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More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
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boxspelunker
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
I was just talking about designers with my friend today. I want to know who Lady Gaga's costume designer is and see if there's any more. I enjoy her visual style - is it all her? Who's her choreographer? I wish I knew these things.
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IamnotStarJones
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
FYI - New York Women in Film & Television has been celebrating film/TV costume designers since 2000. [nywift.org]
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MrsCatbird
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
I've got mixed feelings - on one hand, I think it would be amazing if costume designers could be compensated and recognized for the retail versions of their designs. On the other, I'd hate to see the art of costume design stifled by designers being pushed to create something retail friendly. There's also the complication of costume design being a mix of creating new pieces and pulling together off-the-rack stuff - should the jacket credit be given to the fashion designer who created it or the costume designer who made it iconic?

This also has me thinking of the oscars - the best costume design winner is almost always a period piece nowadays, and brilliant choices on contemporary clothing are overlooked. Would making the costume designer a big name change this?
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JessickerFletcher
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
I call shenanigans on the Austin Powers costume. C'mon half of that outfit is the puffy shirt and we all know that it was clearly stolen from Jerry Seinfeld.
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BiteMeMitchell!
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
This post is resonating with me as someone who is about to finally go to university at the age of 35 to study Performace Design with an eye to getting into doing costumes and wardrobe for theatre/film/tv. I do think there's a big difference between someone like Pat Field, who is very much creating a modern 'look' for characters, and Janie Bryant who is trying to recreate a certain bygone era. Which is not in ANY way meant to descredit Bryant, who is obviously amazing (and who, for my money, has the best job on earth, I could not be more jealous). But Field to a certain extent has more free reign. But if you think about it, most stylists aren't really celebrity names either - I just don't think it's the reason people get into doing it. If, fate willing, I manage to get into doing this for a living and make a career out of it, I certainly wouldn't want Rachel Zoe-type recognition, it would be enough for me to be able to watch the show/film/play I'd worked on and know that I had a big hand in making it look the way it did. I can see why Appel is pissed off to not get a credit in the marketing stuff, because she's obviously worked hard on the look of the characters and that would suck. But for me it would be more about seeing your ides come to life on stage or screen - I can't imagine anything more thrilling than that.
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frugal
11/18/09

@BiteMeMitchell!: Yay! Where are you planning to go to school? YSD design grad here. Performance Design can be rewarding. I just wish I could fill my schedule working for the Wooster Group and the Builder's Association. I've diversified as I grew tired of travel, sitting in the dark for 12 hours a day. I recently designed a show for high schools teaching safe sex and STD education. I was afraid they'd be like my jaded former high school self when Up With People came to visit. The best part is, the students love the show! They always ask in the Q&A when the costumes came from. PM me if you'd like.
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BiteMeMitchell!
11/18/09

@frugal: I'm in the UK, but PMing you now!
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lapiquante
11/18/09

@BiteMeMitchell!: but Field also often chooses fashion over character, which I have a bit of a problem with. Ugly Betty hasn't been the same since she took over. Particularly Wilhemina's costume choices, as Eduardo Castro had her in wintery, silvery whites, and Field puts her in the most colorful fashion item possible. I understand Willie's character has changed and grown, but I disagree that her wardrobe choices would alter so drastically. It's often like Field forgets that she has to tell the story of the character through the clothes, and often chooses clothes that wear the character, because they're "fashion." And Bryant, while the fashion of the 1960s is making a comeback, still maintains the character in the clothes, and that is the point of costume design. Joan has a style, Peggy has a style, and Betty has a style, and it is very clear which silhouette is which. Even in the menswear choices, a Pete suit is quite different than a Roger or a Don suit. If you prefer putting people in pretty clothes, become a stylist. If you enjoy telling a story through clothing, become a costume designer.
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frugal
11/19/09

@lapiquante: I completely agree with the storyteller vs. stylist take. Unfortunately, much of the work available to costume designers in Hollywood means pulling from department stores and catering to actor/producer tastes, eschewing a larger character arc. In fittings, I would hate to hear "I don't wear blue, it doesn't suit me." Well you are not playing YOU, you are a character! I met Eduardo years ago when I first came to town, he himself is a character and very talented. Tiring is this swapping of gifted designer for fashion nameplates. That said I am thrilled that Kime Buzzelli of Show Pony is assistant designer on 90210, a local and Paper Mag fashion name, but a creative artist in her own right, with some of her paintings being featured on the show.

#tips
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fatmonalisa
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
I used to work in set design for movies and tv. The whole industry is about the directors, the actors, and sometimes the soundtrack. No one gives a rat's ass most of the time. You have to have a very specific type show or movie to "break out". I used to work on Gossip Girl and it was all about the fashion. Hence why, Eric Daman is becoming famous. If Gossip Girl wasn't fashion oriented and just been another teen show like Gilmore Girls, no one would care. Some people work in movies and tv to get more on their resume. It's not like they're looking for fame behind the scenes.
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pantsless economist...access RESTORED
11/18/09

In reply to More Costume Designers Should Be Household Names
I'm thinking of that scene in the Devil Wears Prada where Meryl Streep tells Anne Hatheway how her sweater evolved from fashion elite. While it kinda sucks that the inspiration behind the clothing isn't credited, in a lot of ways I think it's the nature of the beast--relatively easy to produce, really easy to copy, and styles go in and out very quickly.

All that said, is there REALLY a market for Austin Powers suits?!! Outside of Halloween?!
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