<![CDATA[Jezebel: ann demeulemeester]]> http://tags.gawker.com/assets/base/img/thumbs140x140/jezebel.com.png <![CDATA[Jezebel: ann demeulemeester]]> http://jezebel.com/tag/anndemeulemeester http://jezebel.com/tag/anndemeulemeester <![CDATA[Victoria Beckham Expands Her Reach; Valentino Doc Financed On Credit Cards]]>

  • Victoria Beckham opens up to Women's Wear Daily about everything from the childhood bullying she endured to why she couldn't bring herself to tell Marc Jacobs she was starting a fashion line. Clearly, someone wants to be Taken Seriously:
  • And Beckham sure is a busy woman these days. Not only is she judging American Idol next month, bu she recently redesigned her denim and sunglass lines, after taking them in-house (the innovations she came up with include square rivets). And she chaperones school field trips in her (limited, we imagine) spare time. When she moved into fashion, people were derisive — surely she was just another celebrity cashing in on the brand of her self. But perhaps we got it wrong? "There have been people that have wanted to knock me that haven't been able to because they haven't been able to argue with the quality or the sell-throughs," says the star, who moves about $7.5 million worth of products a year. "I've always been driven. I was mentally and physically bullied when I was at school and that gave me a very thick skin.…The only reason for me bringing that up is I have always been a fighter." [WWD]
  • Yet somehow we're still happier for this Bronx priest, Father Andrew O'Connor, whose sustainable cotton clothing line was worn by Cameron Diaz in Vogue and is now selling extremely well. A chance encounter set the wheels in motion: "I was helping a young woman and her fiancé prepare for their marriage," explains Father O'Connor, "and she said I'm an editor at Vogue; I'd really like to see your clothing line." In the resultant issue, Anna Wintour herself wrote in her Editor's letter, "the neat pair of checked shorts from the charitably minded fashion company Goods of Conscience [is] my personal favorite." The profits from the line fund domestic violence initiatives in the Bronx, and support the native Guatemalan communities where the fabric is woven. [NYDN]
  • Matt Tyrnauer tells the long, horrifying, funny, and strange story of making and distributing a documentary film about a subject who could be — a little difficult. And Tyrnauer financed the film by taking out credit cards with 0% introductory APRs. Whenever Giancarlo Giammetti inquired about the production's cashflow, Tyrnauer would reply, "It's fully financed by a bank called Capital One." Valentino: The Last Emperor is now shortlisted for a Best Documentary Oscar. [TDB]
  • Two men were found guilty of stealing more than £4 million worth of Cartier jewelry from an airport warehouse in 2001. They had apparently gotten away with it, but were found out when their third accomplice, a contestant on a reality TV series about cooking made by Jamie Oliver, contacted police to confess the crime last year. [BBC]
  • Tune in tomorrow to watch Tom Ford on the Martha Stewart Show. Then on Thursday, Roberto Cavalli takes his mark at Martha's kitchen island. [Glamchic]
  • Louis Vuitton's spring campaign does in fact feature Lara Stone, the company has confirmed. The Dutch model was shot in a pastoral studio set with white doves and handbags nestled into moss by Steven Meisel. [WWD]
  • The February release of Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland will be heralded in Paris by a display of one-off Alice-inspired dresses by designers Ann Demeulemeester, Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen, and Martin Margiela (or at least whoever it is who designs under Martin Margiela's name these days) at the Printemps department store. [Elle UK]
  • Daphne Guinness has officially moved from being Steven Klein's unpaid muse to his paid one. The heiress is featured in the spring Akris campaign. [WWD]
  • Coach has filed more than 100 lawsuits against retailers it suspects of selling counterfeit Coach goods in 2009, including several lawsuits in Texas. Even though selling counterfeited goods is a criminal offense, the lawsuits are civil, because the fashion company wants the court to file injunctions against the offending retailers. One manager of a Fort Worth store named in the suit says, "I didn't know it was wrong." [DN]
  • Barneys is looking to open its first Brooklyn Barneys Co-Op, most likely in Cobble Hill. [Crains]
  • And in other retail news, the Chelsea Filene's Basement on the corner of Sixth Avenue and West 18th Street will close this March, after the company was unable to renegotiate the terms of its lease. Seventy-five employees will be affected; the company could not say whether or not the workers would be transferred to Filene's other New York stores. It is looking for a new location nearby. [Crains]
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<![CDATA[Charlize Sits For Vogue; Corinne Day Seriously Ill]]>

  • Charlize Theron has nabbed the September cover of a slimmed-down Vogue. The issue counts only 584 pages, compared with the 840 pages of Sienna Miller's 2007 issue. Theron last made the cover in October 2007. [TFS]
  • Kate Moss is the fall face of Just Cavalli. Splitting the difference between the competing trends of top- and bottomlessness, she poses for one ad in a tuxedo jacket and nothing else, and for another in some kind of leopard-print leotard. In a third, she wears a micromini sequined dress that seems to be held up with magic. [FWD]
  • Legendary photographer Corinne Day — whose pictures of Kate Moss for The Face helped put the supermodel on the map — is facing a serious illness, and requires expensive medical treatment. Friends are trying to raise money by selling 500 prints of a 2001 photo of Moss nude on a bed; the pictures are £100 each. [LOVE, link NSFW]
  • The first images of Jil Sander's hotly anticipated +J line for Uniqlo have just surfaced, and it looks fantastic. Japanese magazine Non-No shot seven looks from the men's collection, and it's entirely apparent that the German designer has not lost her talent for tailoring and her ability to pare down a look to its most basic, striking elements during her years in the fashion wilderness after being fired from her namesake label by owners Prada. +J, which hits Uniqlo stores this November, includes around 140 pieces of men's and women's wear, and prices start at $25. [Hypebeast]
  • Macy's has announced that Ne-Yo will be the new face of Alfani's Red men's wear. [WWD]
  • Uma Thurman has the campaign for Givenchy's new Angel or Demon perfume. [The Sun]
  • Under Isaac Mizrahi's direction, Liz Claiborne continues to seek a higher-fashion image without shedding its affordability. To wit: this fall, Coco Rocha and her old flaming red hair star in a very kaleidoplaid campaign. Also, count this as another example of the models-in-the-supermarket fashion imagery trope. [Design Scene]
  • Patrick Robinson and his design team at the Gap have been concentrating on the basics — and particularly on revamping the company's various styles of jeans. To advertise the offerings, the company has chosen a bevvy of top models, including Carmen Kass, Anja Rubik, and Arlenis Sosa, each identified with a particular style of denim — "The Boyfriend," "Curvy," "Long & Lean," etc. We wonder who it was, though, who chose to put the lesbian model Freja Beha Erichsen next to giant type that reads "Real Straight." [Models.com]
  • Loeffler Randall is adding e-commerce to its website. [WWD]
  • Jewelry designer Anna Sheffield's collection for Target hits stores at the end of this month. The pieces range from $19.99-$79.99; some are made of sterling silver. They all look very cool. [Lucky]
  • You know the economy's terrible when Jessica Seinfeld serves pigs-in-blankets to Gwyneth at a charity gala. [WWD]
  • In Paris, several recent fashion school graduates are starting their own lines — with a difference: instead of focusing on the tradition ready-to-wear, these young designers each want to do small collections made-to-measure for each client. And the prices are right: 50-80 Euros for a shirt, 70 Euros for a dress, 150 Euros for a jacket. In putting an affordable price on services that are something more than tailoring and something less than couture, with all its connotations of excess, these youngsters have almost certainly found a gap in the market. [DazedDigital]
  • Meanwhile, shoe designer Jeffrey Campbell knocked off a Chloé boot. His offerings this season are basically just Ann Demeulemeester's and Balmain's shoes done for cheap(er). How is it this guy hasn't gotten sued yet? (Of course, Chloé probably took inspiration for their shoes from some vintage boots.) [The Greyest Ghost]
  • And there are also instances of high-end brands ripping off less-expensive ones. Cf. Proenza Schouler's version of the Frye boot. [On The Fringe Of Fashion]
  • After the record-breaking sale of all the art he collected with Yves Saint Laurent, partner Pierre Bergé plans to go ahead with an auction of furniture, sculptures, and textiles in November. The works are expected to fetch around $5.7 million; the proceeds will go to AIDS research. [WWD]
  • Miss J's new memoir, Follow The Model: Miss J's Guide To Unleashing Presence, Poise And Power contains a troubling blind item about not being let in to a fashion show on the explicit instructions of the head of the PR company running the designer's front-of-house operations. The PR company seems to be Kelly Cutrone's People's Revolution, and the designer — specified as Brazilian — seems to be either Carlos Miele or Alexandre Herchcovitch. Was Miss J denied entry because he is black, or because he now bears the taint of Night-Time Tyra? The latter seems unlikely, since Miss J points out that the same designer later begged America's Next Top Model to use his line for the finale runway show when ANTM went to Brazil in Season 12. (That particular laurel went to Rosa Chá.) [Fashionista]
  • The New York Fashion Week menswear schedule is out, and it contains some surprises. This season, Yigal Azrouël is killing his separate men's wear presentation, and combining his two shows into one. Philip Lim is doing the exact opposite, adding a separate men's wear presentation. [WWD]
  • Feast your eyes on ShopBop's "WARTIME" array of products, and ponder the aestheticization of orchestrated human killing. [ShopBop]
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<![CDATA[Bijou Phillips Disses Michelle Obama Election Night Dress]]>

  • Bijou Phillips on Michelle's Narciso "hell dress": "It made her look fat...It didn’t fit her properly... If you print that you need to print that I would have voted for her." [BlackBook]
  • Get out your fantasy checkbooks: Carla Bruni has donated a Dior to an AIDS auction. [WWD]
  • Anna Wintour's infamous ram's horn Chanel gown has made Time's worst-dressed list. [Time]
  • OMG. Louboutin is designing a Barbie pump in "Barbie Pantone 219 Pink," for the doll's 50th anniversary. Chewability yet to be assessed. [WWD]
  • Breaking! Marc Jacobs goes to party, canoodles with boyfriend. [NY Post]
  • According to Lagerfeld, excess is demode: "I have moved to a smaller house in Paris, and I don't fancy having so much staff now...The chambermaid, chauffeur and chef are still musts, around the clock." [New York via WSJ]
  • Not Christian Siriano! "It's a bit inspired by Egypt, but more like the colors of the desert. It's really warm, it's really badass. Strong, like rock. It's hot. It's beautiful," quoth the wunderkind. [New York Magazine]
  • Belgian ad shows men a use for socks. [AdRants]
  • The cultural institution that is Gianni Versace's Miami mansion is now open to the public, by popular (?) demand. "Tourists get a look at the house's exquisite central courtyard, dining room, lounges, pool and a marble toilet with a golden seat, billed as one of only three in the world." [CBSNews]
  • Awesome. The estrogen in many moisturizers may worsen breast cancer. [Reuters]
  • Talk about multiculturalism in action! "I'm a Canadian living in East Africa and we make cowboy shirts in Kenya from secondhand clothes that end up in the marketplaces." [BoingBoing]
  • Target ups the ante with artist-designed towels for summer. [WWD]
  • Louis Vuitton abandons plans for a Tokyo flagship. [Reuters]
  • Not Frederick's of Hollywood! The campy fixture posts major losses. [WWD]
  • Wait, what? Zac Posen's not launching a cheap line?! “In light of the current economic conditions, any plans for a secondary line are on hold,” said a rep, nonsensically. [WWD]
  • The Brooklyn Museum is selling its (apparently incredible) costume archive to the wealthier Met. [NY Times]
  • Ann Demeulemeester: open-minded or patronizing? "I saw pictures of Herman Hesse and I really liked the man. He was so beautiful in his fragility, so old and so fragile and so rich in spirit that I had to do something with it! I thought it would be beautiful to do a show where you have the fragility of the very young and the fragility of the very old and put them together. The older you get, the wiser the clothes would be. The young would be black and the older would be beautiful, shining and white, like an angel. It was an experiment, I wanted to break the rule of the young and the beautiful. I wanted to show the old and the beautiful. The oldest model was 87! I thought he was the most beautiful. It was amazing to me how proud they were, they had so much dignity." [DazedDigital]
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<![CDATA[Fashion Weak]]> Editorial assistant Maria tallied up the models of color at Paris Fashion Week, and, much like New York, London and Milan, the runways were pretty white. Here are how some of the most influential designers cast their shows: Ann Demeulemeester: 29 models, all white. Balenciaga: 34 models; 2 dark-haired Spaniards, zero black, zero Asian. Celine: 42 models; 1 Asian, zero black. Chanel: 36 models; 2 Asian, zero black. Chloe: 28 models; 2 Asian, 1 dark-haired Spanish, zero black. Christian Dior: 58 models; 1 Asian, 1 black. Christian Lacroix: 30 models; zero Asian, zero black, 1 indigenous Brazilian. Jean Paul Gaultier: 36 models; 2 Asian, 2 black, 1 Latina (Omahyra). John Galliano: 52 models, 1 Asian, 1 black. Louis Vuitton: 49 models; 2 Asian, 2 black, 1 indigenous Brazilian. Vivienne Westwood: 25 models; 2 Asian, 5 black, 1 Latina. Yohji Yamamoto: 25 models, 1 Asian, zero black. Junya Watanabe avoided the blatant runway racism by covering all his models' faces with pieces of black fabric. That's one way to deal with it!

[Image from Vivienne Westwood's show via Getty.]

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