We've been continuing to count models of color as the fall 2008 designer collections are shown around the globe, and although things were not good in New York and London, Milan was the worst so far. The runways were overwhelmingly white. (That's the Gucci lineup, at left.) Our own Maria-Mercedes Lara ran the numbers: Of thirty-seven runway shows, there 1,084 opportunities to send out a model. Asian models walked 28 times, Latina models walked 17 times, and black models walked 14 times. Keep in mind we're counting instances of models on a runway and not the models themselves; Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman, for example, were in more than one show. What's really interesting is how many shows by big-name Italian designers had absolutely zero diversity. (Keep that in mind the next time you consider buying a Fendi purse or anything by Jil Sander!) Some examples, and percentage breakdowns, after the jump.
Shows featuring black models included MaxMara, Prada (?!?!) and Bottega Veneta. Of the 1,084 instances of a model on the runway, a model of color was used 59 times. That's a mere 5%.

The "diversity" was broken down thusly: A black model was used 14 times, an Asian 28 times, and a Latina 17 times. We included Bruna Tenorio because she is of indigenous Brazilian descent, but also noted when Spanish models Barbara Garcia or Sheila Marquez were used, as they offer an alternative to the pale blond Eastern European image that so dominates the runways.
As seen here, the instances of an Asian model on the Milan runways are almost double the instances of a black model. Since Milan is considered the capital of fashion, can one assume it is not fashionable to be black?
A black model was sent out fourteen times out of 1,084 looks during Milan fashion week. That is 1%.
Here are how some of the top shows panned out:
D&G
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 2 (Hye Park, Dual Kim)
Latina Models: 0 (Although Spanish model Shelia Marquez and Brazilian bombshell Isabeli Fontana did walk)
White Models: 43
Total Models: 45Emilio Pucci
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 25Etro
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio, of indigenous Brazilian decent. Shelia Marquez also walked)
White Models: 45
Total Models: 47Fendi
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 24
Total Models: 24Gianfranco Ferre
Black Models: 1 (Kinee Diouf)
Asian Models: 1 (unidentified)
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio)
White Models: 35
Total Models: 38Gucci
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0 (Shelia Marquez walked)
White Models: 25
Total Models: 25Jill Sander
Black Models: 0
Asian Models: 0
Latina Models: 0
White Models: 32
Total Models: 32Giorgio Armani
Black Models: 1 (Yordanos Teschager)
Asian Models: 3 (unidentified, Eugenia Mandzhieva, Han Jin)
Latina Models: 1 (Bruna Tenorio; though Barbara Garcia and Penelope also walked)
White Models: 37
Total Models: 43
Earlier:
Miuccia Prada Puts End To Fashion Week Apartheid!
Fashion Week Runways Were Almost A Total Whitewash
Designer: Fashion Runways "Are Full Of White Dogs"
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways
Is Prada To Blame For the Lack Of Black Models?











Comments
I don't know what you people mean, there's a redhead right there in the middle of that line of models. If that's not diversity, then what is?
Keep that in mind the next time you consider buying a Fendi purse or anything by Jil Sander.
Yes, because if we've established anything, it's that Jezebel readers can afford designer.
Also, I haven't liked Gucci for quite some time, but that collection is hot. There was no shoe diversity, either.
NOT THOSE BOOTS AGAIN!
They can't even argue that they were trying to make all the models look the same a la Prada. Those models are different heights, have a variety of hair colours and lengths... just stay the same weight and keep pale, ladies!
@Archetype: Right? I've had it, I'm taking my business right to H&M!
Dude, Bruna is brazilian, no matter if she looks it or whatever, you don't need to make such a disclaimer.
I can only hope that the smaller shows (LA fashion week, Miami fashion week) aren't as disappointing.
it's the smallest voice that makes the most change...
@ineffable.me: Dude, I think we do, because Gisele is Brazilian too, but not of indegenous descent. It's definitely different.
@Sukie in the Graveyard: I bet they will be better, if only because they use local models for the most part and those populations are fairly diverse. Maybe that's just wishful thinking, though.
@Archetype: I think the job advice thread did show there are a number of rather successful readers of Jezebel. Although, I doubt most would be the type to buy this fug, overpriced crap in bulk. The actual type to buy bulk designer doesn't generally give enough crap to amend their shopping habits.
I appreciate Jezebel's consistent effort to promote diversity on the runway and in magazines. I hope that one day someone will pay attention, but I'm not holding my breath. When you think about it, there's very little recourse. I mean, what are you going to do, refuse to buy ANY of Gucci's fall collection? God forbid. The .001% (or less) of the population that can consistently afford this stuff may also be the the population that is the LEAST concerned with righting any wrongs here.
It's hard for black models to get that "heroin/cocaine chic" look. Apprently, models don't look sickly enough if you can't see under-eye circles and yellow skin from starvation. It's just not fashionable, I guess, to look alive.
@Dalinae: Well, success doesn't necessarily result in running out to stock up on pieces from the newest collections.
@brookidy: I hope that someone will pay attention too, but we all know that the fashion media ignore anyone who isn't "them." If you want to do, let's say, plus or petite sizes, the best you get is a "that's very nice, dear" type of comment.
@Dodai: i meant, i dont understand why you dont just put it in the latin category. gisele has whiter skin, but shes not blonde and blue-eyed like the rest of the easter european girls.
I wish I cared, I really do, but the truth of the matter is that this will affect my consumer choices not at all. I refuse to view fashion through a prism of political corectness: if a dress is beautiful and well-made I do not particularly care about the race of the model wearing it.
I do think this white-out trend is unfortunate, if only because many of my favorite models have been black or otherwise non-white and I miss the 80's when there were ethnic supermodels like the stunning Yasmeen Ghauri. That said, I will buy Jil Sander because I happen to like their clothes.
@ineffable.me: Gisele is German. There are European Brazilians, African Brazilians and Indigenous Brazilians. Gisele is not "Latin."
@Dodai: Really? I had no idea that Gisele was German. Shows how much I know.....
@Dodai: Fine. I think we might be arguing about different things and I don't really want to get in this whole enthnicity debate.
@Archetype: she's brazilian. i guess she has german parents or something.
@Dodai: Word!
@ineffable.me: Oh, I see. So this is an ethnicity v. nationality conversation.....
Probably the models are mostly white because the primary consumers of expensive designer clothing are mostly white or desirous of the “white-and-wealthy” lifestyle.
I’m not saying it’s right.
I hope I live to see the day when there are so many wealthy and proud people of color that the designers won’t be able to do business without featuring significant numbers of people of color as models.
@PetiteGal: Word. The flat-out denial of ethnic models is par for the course in an industry that ignores short people and people who weigh more than a 12-year-old. So I don't buy high fashion. I buy the knock-offs at H&M & F21 and don't cry for profits lost to these elitist "perfection"-pushers.
When are Russell and Kimora going to step in? Or at least Andre over at Vogue.
@ineffable.me: I mean ethnically she is German. There are many Germans born and living in Brazil -- her last name is Bündchen. From Wikipedia:
Gisele is from Southern Brazil, a region whose population is largely composed of Brazilians of German descent. Bündchen is of distant German ancestry in both sides of her family: her great-great-grandparents immigrated to Brazil from Germany. In regards to her ethnic background, Bündchen was quoted:
"I was born in Horizontina, a town in the backcountry of (Brazilian) state Rio Grande do Sul. The town was once mainly colonized by Germans. In the school which I attended, learning German was actually obligatory from third grade on.
@iplaudius: Not necessarily, Asia is a huge luxury goods market.
Suppose you were selling a hair product specifically formulated for the kind of coarse, kinky hair that many African-Americans have. Would you feature a Nordic blonde, a silky-haired Asian AND a woman of color with a Condi Rice-do on the front of the box? Of course, not. You would feature a model most likely to appeal to your intended customer base.
I'm not saying there aren't women of color with money to burn anymore than I'm saying there aren't some white women who select items from that section of the drug store that features exclusively black faces. If some designers use models of color in 1-5% ratios, that just might represent the percentage of customers that fit their demographic. I don't see the shame in it; it's just the reality of who buys expensive apparel.
@hamburgerhotdog: Cf “white-and-wealthy” lifestyle. Also, we’re talking about runways in North America and Europe.
@AthertonMerriweather: I don't see Andre ever making stand for anything that has true social relevance. He's the first one who would die if he lost his cache. I lost all respect for him after the JHud scary boa incident, anyway.
@hamburgerhotdog: Yes, but take a look at how many women (the Japanese, especially) appropriate "Western" beauty ideals - like dying their hair blond and strapping on platform shoes to look taller.
@Dodai: I know what you meant, and that's why I said that we were arguing different things and I didn't want to get into an ethnicity debate.
@brookidy: I actually dislike ALT, but since you are on the topic, he was actually volunteering for the Obama campaign, and not in the fancy shit, just straight up logging hours cold-calling people on the phone to get them to vote. And he did it in the same room as all the regular mortals.
That being said, ALT has power over Vogue and maybe some American designers, he is not the king of the fashion industry and can't really do anything if the Italians don't wanna put black people in the runway.
@sjct: This is a poor argument because the designers are not advertising hair products. They're selling an image of what is chic now. The "look" of a runway trickles down to consumers; today's Anna Sui is tomorrow's Forever 21. And when, on a global level, you are dictating what is fashionable, and you purposely exclude a certain skin tone, what message does that send? There have been high fashion models of color in the 70s, 80s and 90s, but for some reason it is not "chic" right now. It's not about buying power. Besides, black women spend millions on clothes and beauty products.
@iplaudius: I'm not sure that argument stands up when considering the GINORMOUS buying power of Japanese and other well-off Asian countries. Look at how many Asians there were. Not much more than black or latina women.
@BiscuitDoughJones: Yeah...I was going to add that I know a girl who apparently went to a couple of Toronto Fashion Week parties and casually asked designers and others involved about non-standard sizes. Lots of people looked at her as if she had three eyes, two horns and green skin. And this is Toronto Fashion Week, nothing big from an international standpoint.
@brookidy: Yes, that effing bolero made me lose all respect for the Talley.
@sjct: That's a pretty crazy argument. Especially since you have to be emaciated and 15 to wear actual runway designs, and most people I know who have money to burn on "fashion" are 30sh and a teensy bit heavy from all the going-out-to-dinner times they get to spend their dough on. I do blame the industry, not just the runway, because I think it's honed its statistics in on who sells and how to the point where it's losing its art and its message, but I don't think you could suggest that 15-year-old Ukranian girls are the target purchasing demo for high fashion.
@ineffable.me: I know it wasn't your intent, but I got a good laugh out of thinking about people picking up the phone and listening to ALT shill for Obama. He has a distinctive speaking voice.
I'm not above reproach - good on him for rockin' the vote. If he has any influence over anyone, stepping up on this issue would go a long way towards making his legacy about more than giant Burberry capes.
@the.bleach: *sigh* no, you don't have to be emaciated and 15 to wear actual runway designs (unless by actual you mean, the ones actually shown on the runway), when the clothes come out to the stores they come in a range of sizes just like anything else.
@brookidy: haha totally. I think it's hilarious to see some dude in a giant fur cape sitting in a tiny chair and table and calling people. Like I said, I really don't like him, but you know, to Caesar what belongs to the Caesar. (Does that phrase exist in english?)
Perhaps it's harder to find black and latino women who look like skinny white bitches.
The Unidentified Asial Model at Giorgio Armani was Mo Wandan. She also walked for Emporio.
Well, the second model in the runway line picture is Marina Perez, a model from Spain. She does not seem to factor in your breakdown above. It's always tricky when looking at "diversity" in fashion and having to deal with models who might be of Latin American or Spanish nationality, but who are ethnically "White" or have non-latin/Spanish names. Most Brazilian models now are very complex in terms of nationality/race/ethnicity, Bruna Tenorio being an obvious example of this, and don't really fit the more simplistic American ideas of race and ethnicity at all.
My main beef with the runways is that there are actually a lot of models of color out there right now, but they don't seem to be showing up in the runways so much. There is a huge discrepancy in the models of color who do advertisements and fashion mag editorials and the ones who do runway. This is an obviously artificially created situation: There are plenty of diverse models, they are just not being selected to do runway work.
I have to admit, as a black person that can afford these clothes/bags, I am always a bit self conscious or confused about the designers exclusion of minority models in their shows. I love fashion and see the designers as artists. But, if the designers did not envision someone like me wearing their products, then should I be buying/wearing them? I don't want to shop at these designer stores when at the back of my mind I feel that I am not really the person the "artist" desired to wear the clothes, shoes, etc. It is all so confusing!
@Dodai: I guess I don't agree with you about designers having that much power. I'm sure selling their product matters more to them than having influence on low-end rip-offs.