Jezebel
When New York Fashion Week kicked off, we swore to monitor the diversity — or the lack of — on the runways. CFDA president Diane Von Furstenberg sent a letter to designers, model agencies and casting directors last month, encouraging them to create shows "that are truly multicultural." Well, the NY Daily News reports that despite von Furstenberg's efforts (and the numerous summits held by former model and agent Bethann Hardison), the catwalks were sorely lacking in models of color. According to the News, out of 66 shows at the in the Bryant Park tents, 18 designers had no black models. Jezebel editorial assistant Maria-Mercedes Lara, who went through each and every fashion show posted on Style.com, said that the models were overwhelmingly Caucasian-looking. She notes that von Furstenberg's runway "had the most models of color, but then again she did send the letter. Although Peter Som was quoted in The Wall Street Journal as saying 'I do not want an all-white cast,' his show featured a mere 3 models of color out of 18." A breakdown of the models, some examples of "diverse" shows and quotes from industry insiders (gathered by our own Jennifer Gerson), after the jump.
Keegan Singh, stylist:
Every show I've been styling this season has had all ethnicities represented. I work with a designer to help them achieve an overall modern look. To get a modern look, you need to represent a diverse group of people. You can't seem modern if you're only showing how one group of people look.Mara Hoffman, designer:
I just like the look of having a diverse group of girls. I shouldn't say this, but I actually lean towards darker girls versus all those washed-out pale girls. I just don't look how all those pale, blonde girls look. I totally shouldn't say that! But, I don't know if there's anything the industry as a whole can do about diversity. As a designer, it's all about what your vision is of who your woman is. How do we make a standard for who you imagine your customer to be?Frank Tell, designer:
You make clothes for anyone who would happen to like you taste: That's what fashion is. And guess what? That's not all white women. Not just white women like clothes — I don't know why the industry hasn't realized that yet.Araks Yeramyan, designer:
I don't cast models for who they are, but for how they fit a certain image I am trying to create. The image I have of who my customer is...I'm always thoughtful about making sure there's a broad range of girls in the show — it's nice to have a range of looks. But really, I don't think the problem is with us. We are not not casting models of different races. The problem us there aren't enough working ethnic models...There aren't enough minority girls to go around, so they're only walking in a few shows. That's just how it is.Really Ms. Yeramyan? Tell that to model Jourdan Dunn!
Of 103 runway shows, there were 2,278 chances to feature a model on the runway. Of these, women of color (meaning black, Asian or noticeably non-white Hispanic) were used 298 times. An Asian model was used 124 times, a black model was used 112 times, and a Hispanic model was used 62 times.
In other words, the runways were 88% white or European. (According to the census, the U.S. is 73.9% white; that's a non-white population of almost 30%. New York City is 37% non-Hispanic white; 28% black; 27% Hispanic of any race and 10% Asian. )
Of the women of color, the majority were Asian.
41% Asian; 38% black; 21% Latina.
Black models were used a mere 5% of the time.
Because we counted instances of black models and not the models themselves, this number does not mean that 5% of the models were black. Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn, Atong and Samira walked in multiple shows.
Here are examples of castings for a few of the top shows:
Erin Fetherston
Chanel Iman, black
Daul Kim, Asian
Han Jin, Asian
Hye Park, Asian
Total models of color: 4
Total white models: 23
Total models: 27
DKNY
Jourdan Dunn, black
Daniela Borges, Brazilian*
Total models of color: 2
Total white models: 21
Total number of models: 23
Diane Von Furstenberg
Liya Kebede, black
Samira, black
Du Juan, Asian
Atong, black
Maria, Latina
Joan Smalls, black
Georgie, black
Lee, Asian
Alek Wek, black
Emma Pei, Asian
Camila Finn, Brazilian*
Bruna Tenorio, Brazilian*
Total models of color: 12
Total white models: 31
Total number of models: 43
Calvin Klein
Liya Kebede, black
Total models of color: 1
Total white models: 20
Total number of models: 21
Donna Karan
Chanel Iman, black
Total models of color: 1
Total white models: 22
Total number of models: 23
Jill Stuart
Total models of color: 0
Total white models: 20
Total number of models: 20
Jovovich-Hawk
Total models of color: 0
Total white models: 3
Total models: 3
Luca Luca
Atong, black
Total models of color: 1
Total white models: 19
Total models: 20
Tracy Reese
Sasha Gaye-Hunt, black
Dahlia, black
Hollis Wakeema, black
Sonny, Asian
Mo Wandan, Asian
Lily, black
Britnee Nicol, black
Cecilia Mendez, Argentine*
Total models of color: 8
Total white: 15
Total: 23
Zac Posen
Du Juan, Asian
Liya Kebede, black
Jourdan Dunn, black
Chanel Iman, black
Han Jin, Asian
Bruna Tenorio, Brazilian*
Total models of color: 6
Total white: 40
Total: 46
According to the Daily News, Michelle Smith, the designer behind Milly, blamed the modeling agencies for the lack of black models. "They're not giving us any people to choose from," she said. Funny how Zac Posen, Diane von Furstenberg and Tracy Reese didn't seem to have a problem!
Jourdan Dunn, who is British, is gearing up for London Fashion Week, and, reports This Is London, she's worried about the lack of diversity on those runways as well, saying: "London's not a white city so why should our catwalks be so white? I go to castings and see several black and Asian girls, then I get to the show and look around and there's just me and maybe one other coloured face. They just don't get picked."
*Clearly, many Brazilian and Argentine models are of European heritage; we tried to include the ones who offer a different look than the pale, Eastern-European model dominating the scene right now, like dark-eyed, dark haired Bruna, who is of indigenous Brazilian descent.
Fashion Week Runways Lacked Minorities [NY Daily News] 'Why Are Our Catwalks So White?' [This Is London]Earlier: In The Wake Of The Summits...
Modeling Matriarch Continues To Demand Diversity On The Runways
Comments
Designers blame the Casting Agents. Casting Agents blame the Agencies. Agencies blame the fact that they don't have many diverse models coming in. Here's an idea:
SEND SOME OF YOUR FUCKING TALENT SCOUTS TO COUNTRIES OTHER THAN RUSSIA AND BRAZIL!!!
kthnxbai.
I'm all for having diversity on the catwalk...anything about "there just aren't enough colored models" is total BS. There are a ton of models from all different countries, they just seem to want to preserve the "All-American" ideal that went out of play decades ago...whether they want to pretend that the 40s and 50s no black, Asian or Hispanic people existed in America or not, they were there. Japanese immigrants were in pockets of California as early as the 30s and 40s, and so were Chinese immigrants. Hispanic people were populating Texas and the Southwest. Of course black people have been there even longer than the other groups. This isn't rocket science - these girls are out there.
I wonder, what about male models?
According to the Daily News, Michelle Smith, the designer behind Milly, blamed the modeling agencies for the lack of black models. "They're not giving us any people to choose from," she said.
I agree with this. Although it is possible to find a good number of black models, agencies just don't want them becuase the think that their clients don't want them. And when they do bring on a couple of black models, they all have the same look. How many AleK Wek or Naomi wannabes are they going to put out before a designer says, "Is this the only way black women look?"
Nevertheless, I have noticed more Asian models in print and on the runaway. All in all, the Hispanic ladies are the ones getting the shortest end of the stick. But ya'll got a few actresses to look up to, right?
@UpsetPanda: It's the same thing. But female models have 10 times as more opportunity for being super rich and famous modeling. Gisele. Tyra. Kate. etc. Male models, not so much. Tyson Beckford maybe.. but that's about it. So this imbalance in social relevance means men get pushed aside and disregareded.
I tried to get the line Milly in my shop and they were complete snotty twats. Same goes for Tibi.
I'm pale, blonde, Eastern-European-looking, and my last name is full of funny consonants. I'd buy clothes modeled by people who aren't the same colors as me. 'Course, if I had the cash, that is. Which I don't. And that always seems to be what matters.
The Fashion World is in such a "bubble". How else can you explain 6' 135 lb. male models being "in"? Same with lack of diversity.
@newjewrevue: oof really? I used to work at Tibi.
And yet... still more non-white models than I was expecting! Thank goodness for Iman, right?
As for male models- modeling and porn are two of the only industries in which women stand to make way more than men. Interesting.
Do you guys remember Alek Wek? When she dominated? I miss her. Why doesn't she do fashion anymore? She looked like a gigantic African goddess everytime she walked a runway, dark as night and just as enigmatic. Gorgeous. Absolutely gorgeous.
@MsMerlin: Models are allowed to weigh more than 110?
@stoprobbers: Alek Wek walked in the DVF show.
If you watch that Janice Dickenson show, you see that the black models aren't chosen in the very beginning, by the agency. It seems, from watching, that the clients will actually use them if they're available and qualified (the right size, can walk, not drunk).
@stoprobbers: they retire and stuff. she has a line of handbags and accessories i think. atong and ajuma have a similar look to her though, theya re great.
@stoprobbers: Where in the world is Alek Wek, you know, aside from helping the world by being on the U.S. Refugees Council.
Was it here that I read designers are reluctant to cast black models because the black models overpower the clothes? In other words, they want a blank (white) canvas on which to display their clothes so that the designs are the focus, not the models. Sorry if I'm repeating something already posted here, but either way, I call "Shenanigans!"
Of course, at 12%, fashion has law, business, and Congress beat.
@LyrasDice: I know that pale, blonde comment kinda stabbed a bit.
Maybe there also needs to be some diversity in the designers, too. Maybe that is the problem.
@Dodai: I feel like a racist for asking this, but did Alek Wek walk in the Project Runway show too? There's a model in Christian Siriano's collection who is the spitting image of Alek Wek but I can't confirm that it is she.
If I was a designer I would always book Liya and Alek, if they would have me. They're two of my favorite models, ever. Also, I would find some Indian girls, because I just think they're lovely.
@hammerimissu: that just gets a little iffy cause you can't really force people of a particular race to be good designers for the sake of having good numbers.
(no, im not saying that people of other races cant be good designers.)
@wolf biter: No, that wasn't Alek Wek, her name is Atong.
@ineffable.me: Thanks.
it's not the modelling agencies or fashion designers fault that black chicks aren't as hot as white chicks. But this article in itself is racist. Maybe they were rebelling against these people trying to force them to diversify.
@newjewrevue: I love Tibi. That's a shame.
@Political Party Girl: Word. A designer requiring a homogenous herd of models is simply a crap designer, in my opinion. Anyhow, if they want everyone to look the same, then hire all tall, exotic, black models. With short hair. They're hot. I'm thinking of that fabulous model Laura Whatsherbutt had on the last season of PR.
If agencies could make gobs of cash with non-white models, they would have more non-white models. So I call "bullshit" on the "agencies never send the blacks, browns and yellows!" ASK FOR THEM. A good rep will light his or herself on fire to please a client and make some cheese. I've done castings and I cannot imagine anyone calling up an agency and saying "Hey, do you have anything darker? We're looking for darker." And the agencies responding "Oh, no. We don't do those. Just use what we've got,'kay?"
Poppycock.
@nowimpissed: hmm good point.
Hispanic women that are lighter and more european looking are not hispanic enough to be counted? That is a little BS if you ask me. That's like not counting Liya or Chanel because they are "not black enough."
@BugMeNot2: Black chicks aren't as hot as white chicks?
Are you fucking serious? And that's not a racist statement at all huh?
here is my reasoning. any model who isn't white, is usually curvy, or has features that don't look like a walking ruler. Designers LOVE the thin ruler look. so, casting agents don't cast ethnic models, agencies don't look for models who wouldn't statistically be cast, and individuals who would make amazing models, but know that agencies don't want their ethnic look don't become models.
i hate to say it, but i blame the designers. if they expressed a need, it would be filled.
@Reluctant Financier: This is cross-posted at Consumerist. Nuff said.
would any of us NOT buy a piece because someone of a different color wore it in the show/ad? i mean, if you think about it, the people buying $4,000 prada cocktail dresses (or even a $350 DVF wrap dress) aren't (pardon the turn of phrase) racist yokels. for the most part, they're of a social set in which it is NOT ok to be outwardly racist (secretly, i'm sure it's as bad as everyone else...) and, i personally don't even really notice. i just think, "ooh, pretty!"
I had the, um,...privilege of interviewing Diddy before his Sean Jean show, and he went on and ON about how important it was for him to only use black models for his return to Fashion Week this year. I wanted to call him a racist, but didn't, for fear of being bludgeoned by him with the 10,000,000-carat diamond necklace he was sporting. But now I stop to think...maybe sometimes two wrongs DO make a right.
@BugMeNot2: WAH WAH WAH I WANT ATTENTION SO IM GOING TO SAY CRAZY STUFF!
@kaylinda: yeah, we've discussed it before and people seem to be ok with this. it bothers the shit out of me though.
@tmmkitten: although you have only the best in mind when you say this, you're falling into the stereotype by saying that women who aren't white are curvy and that's why they aren't models. you can find stick thin girls that are tall in every single color of skin that you might want. the truth is, theres just not a good reason for this ocurrence other than ignorance.
@titania1285: exactly!! in fact, i think i would be more likely to buy it because it would show the shape i have, and clothing would be more beautiful on a skin tone other than pale white.
@tmmkitten: Here's the problem: your initial reasoning is simply false. There are plenty of non-white walking rulers in this world.
@TruculentandUnreliable: i will never understand why it's considered sport to try to get the jezebels all riled up. if they hate us so much, why do they keep coming over and saying boo?
@kaylinda: I think it's bollocks too. I'm a paler-than-average Brazilian, but have Amerindian and Lebanese blood. The looks don't always reflect the heritage!
@titania1285: total high-school bullshit, if you ask me.
@titania1285: Because it's fun to pull the smart-girls' pigtails.
So what is your solution? Make them hire more models of color?
I think this is all starting to sound a lot like affirmative action. The designers shouldn't be forced to hire based on racial backgrounds. That is basically saying "Treat black (or other ethnic) models equally but give them special treatment."
@BugMeNot2: Mommy not hold you enough as a child, honey? These desperate ploys for attention are boring.
@TruculentandUnreliable: @titania1285: And it wasn't even a good racist comment! It was the kind of thing that like, Perez Hilton would say!
This is wonderful, fantastic, really fucking outstanding information, Jezzies. This alone, in my opinion, makes what y'all do day in and day out 110% worth it. I doubt anyone else is as blunt or as thorough as y'all are, given the circumstances.
I thank you profusely for putting this out here for us.
Props.
@titania1285: Because they're weak, insecure and spineless, and doing what they do gives them some contorted, delusional sense of meaning.
With that kind of filth, simply being themselves is punishment enough, don't you think?
Wouldn't it be awesome if they instituted a mandatory quota of 50% non-white models at one of the fashion weeks? Just one time, just to see what happened and how the shows and the subsequent pictures and articles looked. I think it would make a big difference from then on, even if they never instituted a quota again. I suppose it would have to be one of the fashion weeks that designers can't afford to just skip. And, yes, this would be a form of affirmative action--hooray!