Fairies At Prada, Nipples At Jil Sander: The Critics Speak

I've been speaking out over the past few days about the looks coming down the runway, but what do the so-called, ahem, "legitimate" fashion critics have to say about Prada, Jil Sander, Giorgio Armani, Burberry, and Bottega Veneta? Eh, some things nice. Some things not so nice. Below, the fashion critics speak.

Prada: "Deeply erotic" "some will probably declare it not their Prada cup of tea." "The colors too drab," "too sexually ambiguous." "we are struck less by her references than by her complex view of women and women's lives." - Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"Fairies? At Prada?" "so sweetly unchallenging you (almost) can't recognize her" "literal connections between past and present were contradicted" "this is a woman who never loses the plot." -Style.com



"[W]eird and wonderful" "mythical" "eerily beautiful." "Full of surprises" "light and pretty fairy dresses" "took fashion on its mystery tour." "some of the loveliest summer dresses... that we have yet seen in Milan."-Suzy Menkes, IHT


Fairies At Prada, Nipples At Jil Sander: The Critics Speak

Jil Sander: "Gumby-like silhouette" "supersaturated color" "ingeniously simple dresses" "light and airy" "starched or glazed" "some...so dense they looked frozen"-Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"putting the credibility back into Jil Sander" "there are difficulties" "The crop of the jacket might work on a flat-chested beanpole model, but on a woman with a real-life bosom?" "super-skinny pants are not the most forgiving" "hot pink, orange, and vivid royal blue seems unlikely to hit the spot" -Style.com

"[B]reaking the mode" "beautifully shocking" "vivid colors" "poetic" "in an abstract way, brilliant" "Can I handle a sheer cover-up on the subway?...Do my nipples look good in this?"-Suzy Menkes, IHT


Fairies At Prada, Nipples At Jil Sander: The Critics Speak

Burberry: "[L]ean and aggressive" "slim skirts" "Chrome Hearts" "But is it fashion or just branded merchandise?" "What you don't find in this collection, really, is Mr. Bailey's distinctive voice. Instead you hear all the competing gimme demands: more luxury, more stuff on stuff." -Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"[L]uxury warrior" "the sexiest version of Burberry yet" "an accurate riff on nineties body-con dressing" "stirrings of the heavy-metal revival" "play[s] it to an international audience"-Style.com

"[S]ense of cool young London..had gone from the collection" "has rightly moved a long way from those checks" "skimpy ruched dresses were ultra glamorous" "But something was lost" "Bailey needs to migrate to his homebase" -Suzy Menkes, IHT


Fairies At Prada, Nipples At Jil Sander: The Critics Speak

Giorgio Armani: "You've got to admire Giorgio Armani" "small jackets with silk pirate pants" "a tank dress with legs." "For him, this is fashion. And because he is Giorgio Armani, with brand power, they will find an audience."-Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"[D]idn't pack quite the knockout punch" "some lovely clothes" "unusual pants" "endless variety of covetable tops" "I Dream of Jeannie evening jumpsuits" "less formal, but no less special" -Style.com

"It's hard to believe that [what was] sent down his runway...had been created with the conviction that it might alter the way women think about their wardrobe" "simply too absurd" "strangely awkward shorts" "seems to have confused the source of pleasure"-Robin Givhan, Washington Post

"[H]eavy on the bloomers and sarong-tie pants" "handkerchief hems... floated on too long" "quintessentially Armani" "his most loyal clients...might even learn to love." "a particularly gentle and elegant version of the tropical isle theme"-Suzy Menkes, IHT


Fairies At Prada, Nipples At Jil Sander: The Critics Speak

Bottega Veneta: "[T]oo prosperous a brand for its designer" "plays it safe" " classic summer dresses" "more in the world than the worldliest people"- Cathy Horyn, NY Times

"[E]xemplary illustration of...restrained, minimalist, functionalist design" "relevant" "delicious" "virtually colorless" "doesn't take a Ph.D. to analyze" "goddess draping" "you'd need a heart of stone not to think, There goes something gorgeous." -Style.com

"[I]f women wanted their wardrobe to go unnoticed, they would...go to Banana Republic" "At Bottega Veneta...a woman...should get...more from her clothes" -Robin Givhan, Washington Post